Hypoxia
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Posts posted by Hypoxia
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When my coach (ISX 600 with Allison 4000) had around 50,000 miles on it the driver who was transporting it from Florida to Arizona for a dealership reported a problem. End result was they replaced the transmission with a Weller Rebuilt Transmission. I'm over 108,000 miles and it has worked well.
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3 hours ago, lake49068 said:
Removed the capacitor and it tested "OK" so assume the unit is ready for the scrap heap.
"The Capacitor" statement indicates you checked ONE capacitor whereas there should be a PTCR, a Compressor Start Capacitor with variable microfarad rating and a Compressor/ Fan Run capacitor with 3 terminals which is probably the one you checked. You need to use a meter which you may have done.
I thought my rear A/C was going to kick my patoot today. The compressor shut off in the middle of the night after making some loud noises. It turned out the fan run capacitor was intermittent. It checked good with a meter 2 times but eventually it showed 0 Mfd after I put a new one in and was wiggling the capacitor terminals. The fan would run fine but then slow down causing the compressor pressures to increase until it shut down. The part that took me some time was realizing the fan speed would change as the capacitor was changing value.
Keep at it, your A/C is probably in good shape other than a minor part.
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Hard to see but resembles the ABS modulator valve
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On 5/13/2022 at 4:17 AM, Dr4Film said:
I haven't found any inside temp sensors either. If anyone who owns a 2006 Dynasty Countess III would chime in as to where they are located in their coach that would help me narrow down my search.
The new ME-ARC Remote and ME-AGS-N are waiting for me in New Hampshire as they were delivered this week. They will be installed this summer while we are there for the season.
The temperature sensors on my 2007; one in the bedroom on the TV cabinet controls the rear A/C, one in the middle bath under the vanity cabinet controls the middle A/C which makes no sense, one inside the galley thermostat controls the front A/C but the middle A/C vent blows directly on that thermostat which always turns the front A/C off. We close that vent.
I think you will like the ME-ARC and ME-AGS-N. Everything is adjusted and controlled from inside.
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I replaced my AES around 8 years ago & it has not failed. I carry a spare AES which just keeps collecting dust, that's fine with me.
Good to hear you found it.
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The AES box can be opened and wiring is easily accessible. You can switch the black primary and secondary wire position and the A/C should work. No need to move the white or ground wires as they are common.
Automatic Energy Select Switch
Date datasheet created: 19/04/2013
Intellitec’s Automatic Energy Select Switch (AESS) is designed to be used in RVs to share the power available from a single circuit breaker between two large loads. The AESS applies power to both appliances until the primary load is turned on. It then removes power from the secondary load
to prevent the circuit breaker from being overloaded. This function is particularly useful for sharing power between the microwave oven and another “sheddable” or postpone-able appliance, such as the washer/dryer, or water heater.
Typically, this function has performed with selector switches, forcing the owner to manually switch between the two appliances.
The selecting function is particularly useful when the
microwave oven is the principal load. Power is always available to it, assuring that the customer can use the microwave whenever required and it’s internal clock remains operating. While the microwave is in use, the function of the secondary load is postponed until the microwave is finished.
Features
• Allows two 20 Amp loads to operate from a single 20 Amp breaker
• Automatically switches between the two loads as the demand requires
• Meets NECsection 551-42(c) for adding breakers over the maximum limit of five and allowing for more than two, thermostatically controlled appliances.
• Minimizes circuit breaker tripping.
• Eliminates manual appliance select switches.
AESS OPERATION
The underlying principle of the AESS is that certain appliances used in an RV, such as the microwave
oven, hair dryer, or toaster need to always be available, when the owner wants to use them. These are “on demand” appliances. The use of others, such as the washer/dryer, water heater, or air conditioner can be delayed to a slightly later time with little inconvenience to the owner. These are
postpone-able loads. Postponing the use of these
appliances leaves enough power to operate the “on
demand” appliances.
Power is supplied to the AESS from a single circuit breaker. An “on demand” load is connected as the primary load and a “shed-able” load is connected as the secondary load. When power is applied to the RV, it is supplied to both loads. When the primary load is turned off and at least 45 seconds has
passed, power to the secondary load will be reapplied.
How it works
The Automatic Energy Select Switch controls power to two appliance loads. One appliance on the primary load is connected to the primary output and a shed-able appliance is connected to the secondary output. The output to the secondary load is carried through a relay.
When the shore cord is first plugged in, power flows through the AESS to the primary load and the relay is quickly closed, supplying power to the secondary load. When the primary load is turned off for more than 45 seconds, the power is re-applied to it.Automatic Energy Select Switch
Date datasheet created:
19/04/2013
Specifications
Part Number: 00-00714-000
Ambient Temperature Range: -40C to +40C
Operating Environment: Out of direct weather
Delay before reapplying power: 45 seconds
Typical Wiring Diagram
Controled Load: One, OEM selectable
Relay Rating: (1) AC - 1 HP, 20A, 120 VAC 60 HZ
U.S. Patents: 4499385, 4617472
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Duh, I just realized you are probably talking about the rear A/C unit with the 00-00714-000 Intellitec Automatic Energy Select Switch which is wired with the Washer/Dryer as the Primary Load which will shut off the rear A/C unit.
Page 141 of this wiring diagram book 2007 Wiring Diagram Mine is under a false floor in the rear closet.
"AUTOMATIC ENERGY SELECT SWITCH PART NUMBER 00-00714-000, INTELLITEC NEXT TO WASHER/DRYER RECEPT, NEXT TO MAIN BREAKER BOX, BEHIND TV, OR UNDER BEDROOM WARDROBE"
Automatic Energy Select AC Washing Machine 53-00714-000.pdf
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4 hours ago, TOBYLB4 said:
Jim, I will keep that in mind if mine turns out to be bad. Where is it located and how much do want for it?
I'm keeping it for a spare. Just wanted to make the point about faulty troubleshooting.
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36 minutes ago, TOBYLB4 said:
Jim, I will keep that in mind if mine turns out to be bad. Where is it located and how much do want for it?
I'm keeping it for a spare. Just wanted to make the point about faulty troubleshooting.
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I have a perfectly good heat pump in storage that had been replaced due to a loose wire nut which was discovered when the new unit was installed on a friends coach..
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8 minutes ago, vito.a said:
Our dryer is a 4 Seasons 33276. It looks identical to yours except the sight glass is located lightly different and it has a port in the back for the pressure switch (but you can just plug it).
Yes, if you plug my RD-6166C number into the 4 seasons X reference you get 33276! Four Seasons
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5 hours ago, nvrtoofast said:
Ouch. Is there a way to get to Alaska without driving through Canada?
Airline it up there and rent an RV.
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19 minutes ago, Dr4Film said:
Another question, can I easily upgrade the remote to the ME-ARC (newest version) and the AGS to the ME-AGS-N newest version by using the same wiring, etc. or do I have to run new cables, etc?
I put the ME-ARC and ME-AGS-N in a number of years ago, pretty sure it was plug & play. I also put the BMK battery monitoring kit in.
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I believe there should be a boot. Is there any play in it? You can replace a boot if there is no play, that's a two person job to check play. Good chance the drag link is stamped so you can't remove the ball joint, some are and some are not.
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On a ME-ARC I think: Press Tech button, rotate knob to 02 Versions, press knob see Inverter #, rotate knob to see versions.
Otherwise probably a sticker on the back of the control box.
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Accumulators need to be for potable water such as the one Rickadoo posted. They all look the same but some are not for potable.
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What model remote control do you have? I use AGS all the time and have the ME-ARC remote with the ME-AGS-N control. I had the earlier version but couldn't get the accuracy I wanted with the dial AGS. Also I think the ME-ARC is easier to adjust the AGS modes as you do it inside instead of at the bay. It's plug and play.
Magnum Remote Control Panel ME-ARC Advanced.pdf Magnum Network AGS Automatic Generator Start.pdf
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Sue at Veurinks has the ability to see pretty much everything that Rev Group has on your coach, they are a Rev Group Dealer. I've had the occasion to visit and go through the upstairs Monaco Parts bins and see some of what they can see on their computer. I would give them a try with an email, they still support those old coaches.
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59 minutes ago, Paul A. said:
We used urinal pucks 10 years full timing. Never had a rodent problem. Just penetrate the wrapper with a pointed object, and distribute in the basement. They will last 6-8 months.
Paul. You are always a wealth of information. I have not used them, is there any brand/type to look for?
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The ride height in travel mode is determined by the ride height valves, one in the front axle and two on the drive axle. It is a mechanical adjustment with a rod which probably needs adjusted although the valves can go bad.
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I was looking for a 12 volt source for the galley cabinet lights I want to install. The only 12 VDC I found in the lower cabinet area was the gas cooktop power on a 2 amp fuse which is shared with the bedroom fan. With a multiplexed coach there's not much need for un-switched 12 VDC power.
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48 minutes ago, David Pratt said:
You might want to think about replacing them with motion detection switches.
Go to; Super Bright LEDs, Inc.
314-972-6200Switch Part Number is; LPIR-6A: Mini PIR switch
That may be the best and easiest solution!
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7 hours ago, amphi_sc said:
Hi guys. I have some broken rollers in my HWH X room (front passenger side, AP27708) so ordered new chain RAP91695. Looks right. Got the old chain loose from the arm but how do you get the cylinder out to work on it where the chain attaches to the cylinder? I dropped the cylinder as low as it will go but old chain won't clear the 90 degree turn. Can't pull bottom of the cylinder out as either the lower bracket is in the way or if slide the cylinder up the top of the cylinder is cradled by a thick C retainer and won't come out. That C retainer holds the cylinder in the upright position in the channel on the wall. It didn't seem to want to pull out thru the C. Old chain has the rivited axle pins all the way. Only bolt is the top one in the arm. Pretty tight to work in there.
Jim/Paul ... does this make sense from your experience? Hard to take a picture but could try if I'm not explaining my situation clearly. My '07 Patriot Thunder Winchester III is pretty close to yours.
BTW, My new replacement chain has a slight arch but I'll see how to deal with that once I get the old chain off. Thinking if I had to I'd file the joints a bit to allow it to lay flatter. But first I need a little hint to get the old one off.
Thanks in advance
Al
I just changed another chain a few days ago. Access was through the rear closet which gave room to maneuver. I did it a little different than the last one. Once you remove the bolt at the top end of the chain, the two pins at the cylinder can be removed with the cylinder in place. I used pliers to pull a circlip off of one end of each pin which destroys that circlip. I pushed one pin out with a pry bar far enough to get a tool under the remaining circlip & pry the pin out. The second pin is easier since there is no tension on it. Then you can remove the old chain & slide the new chain in place.
I re-used the pins by drilling a hole for a cotter pin through the circlip groove on one end. The circlip on the other end was not damaged. I put the pin in the top hole of the cylinder shaft then made a 1/4" spacer to slide under the cylinder shaft & slid it up under the chain to keep it away from the wall. l I used a variety of pry bars & was able to get the bottom pin started through the link on one side of the chain & through the cylinder shaft. With the help of a long vice grip to hold the other side link in place I was able to use pry bars to force the link down & get the pin through it. Without the spacer the chain is against the wall with no room to move. I put cotter pins in each pin, put the bolt in the top link (don't forget the spacer) and voila, it works.
I did use a socket on the top bolt that I had turned on the lathe to make it small enough to fit through the hole & reach the bolt head. I did not loosen the cylinder or pop it out of its channel. I did not operate the hydraulics at all once I put the slide in about an inch from fully in to start the job. The pile of tools at the completion of the job was quite large, I should have taken a picture.
That video is interesting to use as a visual of how everything is put together but I'll bet he will do it differently the next time.
2007 Signature Dash Air Troubleshooting and Repair
in AC, Heating, and Cooling
Posted
2007 Signature dash air wasn't working when returning from a trip a couple of days ago. Evaporator fan worked but compressor and the condenser fan were inop. Swapped the SCS Frigette Control Module, no help. Dug into the center console where the SCS Control Module is located, there are 4 Bosch style relays in there. I have some new relays so I swapped the first in line, no help. Swapped the second in line & the condenser fan (between the steer tires) started running. Started the engine, all is working. Easy fix only because I had the wiring diagram.