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Hypoxia

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Posts posted by Hypoxia

  1. My '07 Signature with the ISX, the tag lifts off the ground.   The Valid book says the drive air springs get air added for 10 seconds to make up for the added weight.  Using the tag lift is a slow process since they are fed by 1/4" air lines.  It sure helps getting in tight spaces or turning around.  I find myself using it more & more but have to be careful since the oil pan does get closer to the ground.

    I also use the tag lift to help climb on to levelling blocks one place we park that is on a slope.

    Levelling Blocks Fife Lake.JPG

    Tag Axle Lift Operation.pdf

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  2. 11 hours ago, 6Wheels said:

    With all the nice pictures I have a question.  How do you keep critters from scooting up the opening into the basement?

     

    I made 1/2" thick polyethylene plastic plates with a slot for the wire/hose which is heavy enough to discourage most.  Paul's is much better and would keep out the occasional meercat, gopher, roof rat as well as the other critters.  :classic_biggrin:

  3. 1 hour ago, BradHend said:

    Try these guys as well, I have used them for my coach with success. Either search through their catalogue or contact them directly via email  

    https://www.globalproducts.llc

    https://www.rvandmarine.com/product-category/diesel-equipment-rv-wiper-blades-motors-and-assemblies/

    The 2006 Dynasty probably has Wiper Technologies, now Global Products.  Does the wiper motor have a "Kit Number on it?  Call Global with that number, they made it.

  4. Quite a sales pitch on the RecPro website "This isn't just a cheap rooftop AC unit. Unlike other models that are made of cheap plastic that has been molded to shape around the unit, these are made from high-quality, tough plastic built to withstand what life throws at it. In warmer climates, other models of air conditioning units can melt from the heat." and they show a photo of a melted Dometic.  Funny!

  5. Be careful using leak sealant, my A/C parts supplier had parts on display cut open showing how leak sealer plugged the system.  That turns into quite a goat rope.

    Deryle, doesn't your coach have a rear radiator?  That's a big issue access wise.  A common problem on all of these old coaches is the hose leaking through the hose end crimp, especially at the compressor where there is a lot of heat and vibration.  You can replace the hose end connector and splice in a piece of hose to the old hose but there is a risk of that developing a leak with the old, not so soft hose.  Most shops won't warranty that & with good reason.

    I had planned to replace all of the A/C hose front to back this winter but haven't had time.  Next winters project unless we happen to stumble into a Foretravel or Newell Coach that we like this summer. :classic_ninja:

  6. 2 hours ago, DrDon4u said:

    Hi Mark,

    That was the first thing I did, pulled the lever, guess what? Would not budge a bit, not even 1/4 of and inch.

    There is a motorized lock in the middle on the side with the lever.  One of mine seems to get out of sync once a year and has so much pressure on it it won't unlock.  It's the last photo on the attachment.  I take the bolts out of the motor that attach it to the assembly, run the motor until it fits back in the hole and put the bolts back in.

    Power SuperSlide II Pictures.pdf

  7. IMHO, I would use a capacitor test meter to see what condition they are in but I have installed the SPP6 in every A/C unit on my last 4 campers.  If the capacitor tests near 10% of the original value or worse I replace them.  I always carry spare capacitors for the A/C unit and the residential refrigerator capacitor & PTCR.

  8. 14 hours ago, Joelsheriff said:

    Anyone with the knowledge of the capacitor I should order on Amazon. I found someone who will go up and replace it. It seems to be general consensus that it's the capacitor 99%.  Thank you all 

    As Trinidaddave mentioned, the PTCR is also a likely suspect and is mounted on the start capacitor.  PTCR  I replaced all of my PTCR's with a Supco SPP6 as I believe they are more reliable.  You can usually tell if the PTCR is going bad by smelling it, they turn stinky and look crispy.  If your residential refrigerator quits working that's the first thing to check.  My A/C parts manual lists the Compressor Start Capacitor and PTCR as "Compressor Start Kit"

    Capacitor Discussion

    Without the model number no one can tell you what capacitor is needed.  When you eventually shop for the capacitor do not buy one Made in China unless you want to replace it again.  MARS is one good brand.

  9. 8 hours ago, pwhittle said:

    You are a betteR man than me!

    I struggled to get the chain installed with the mechanism on my bench. Did your chain from HWH have a bend in it or lay flat?

    Paul

    It started with a bend in it.  I thought; what do the HWH techs do? & figured they straightened it out enough to work with so that's what I did.  I jumped up & down on it which wasn't enough so I stuck it below the vice jaws and put enough pressure to make it fairly straight using a piece of pipe.  It has to be straight to work in the X-Slide, it couldn't do its job otherwise.

    The pins with snap rings make sense in a factory but not in the field.

     

  10. I replaced the easy chain, the front one just behind the entry door.  Lots of space there, relatively speaking.  Instead of using the original 1/4" pins with snap rings I used a grade 5 bolt, 1/4" X 2 1/4" - 20 & locknut on the top hydraulic cylinder shaft hole and a 1/4" X 1 3/8" Clevis pin & cotter pin on the lower hydraulic cylinder shaft hole.  Those holes are about 1 1/2" apart.  The chain is attached to the X-Slide with a 1/4" X 2 1/4" - 20 grade 5 bolt with a locknut. 

    I had the slide all the way in and extended it out a couple of inches to allow some hydraulic cylinder movement.  There is a half inch bolt on the bottom of the cylinder with nuts which adjust the cylinder up & down with a 3/4" wrench.  I took a photo of the bolt so I could use the same number of threads for installation.  I lowered the cylinder enough to move it out of it's retaining bracket, that just made it easier to install the bolt through the chain and cylinder shaft.  I might use a clevis pin instead of a bolt on the next ones but I just had one on hand & there is enough clearance it shouldn't matter.

    I'll work on the rear slide next when I have time.

  11. 54 minutes ago, Nevada Rob said:

    Where you able to actually talk to anyone at Southwire?? Called them today and all you get is a recording directing everyone to their website and fill in all your personal info to try and get an answer as to which transfer switch is a direct replacement for a Surge Guard 40250?? Do they really need my address to point me to the correct product??????

     

    There is no direct replacement that will talk to Aladdin.  The 40350RVC is a direct replacement but if you want to see the voltage, amps, etc., you have to also buy the remote display and run the comm cable to it from the transfer switch.

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