Hypoxia
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Posts posted by Hypoxia
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That Flamingo DC-3's a hoot, I saw it at Oshkosh this summer. I have a soft spot for it seeing as I flew DC-3's for a few years.
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I don't like hotels and that machine always took me to a hotel. For pleasure it's entertaining being my grandson's CFI (Flight Instructor) but I'm basically ballast now.
I really like travelling in my Signature. It's not fast or pointy but sure is comfortable.
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If you use the microwave clock to see what time it is: GE Clock Turns Off
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10 hours ago, johnfr said:Yesterday when I went in to pick it for the 2nd time, I was greeted with a bill of $1936 of which $1470 was labor. (9.8 hrs @ $150/hr.) This shop charges an extra $20/hr over their rate for large trucks. Their reasoning is the fact that RVs are much harder to work on. They claimed to have to remove an engine cage and the ECM to access the lift pump which added to the number of hours. All totaled they billed me for 11 hours ($1650) between the first time in the shop and the second time. Much of this time was diagnostics. I felt like this was far too much time for this kind of repair.
You took it to "Professionals". The $20/hr upcharge is simply a fee for folks with excess $$$ since they can afford a motorhome. I can see the clock spinning round and round while they fiddle with it, that's what happens when I work on my coach at home. On the side of the road I'm much faster.
My pickup trucks are replaced enough that they are in warranty most of the time. I couldn't get the service writers to interpret my diagnosis so I started leaving a paper describing the issue on the console. Some technicians couldn't be bothered reading it. Many returns for the same problem.
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1 hour ago, tmw188 said:
I’ll need call RM to get a torque value on the castle nut on the tie rod end. Unless someone has that info?
Page 11 for my Spicer Axle
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1 hour ago, amphi_sc said:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/163052706531
I normally just replace the top hat & guts without removing the main body from the coach.
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17 minutes ago, granvillebarker said:
I’ve never seen a tire shop balance these big tires, they always add glass beads for that.
Some tire shops spin balance truck tires.
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55 minutes ago, pwhittle said:
Getting ready to order a set of Centramatics for our 2005 Signature.
Does anyone have the model numbers for all 3 axles?
Thanks
Paul
Tough to figure out with their website. The receipt for my steers with disk brakes shows 800-820, I think the drives are 600-640 and drum tag is unknown. I would call them to make sure to get the correct ones. I like them and have used them for nearly 10 years now, I moved 4 of them from my last coach (non-tag) which had drum brakes and just had to get a pair for the Signature front disk brakes. The drives use the same Centramatics for disk or drum and are much heavier than the non-dual wheel part.
I sometimes wonder if a very rough road will make them go out of balance for a short time. I can 't tell if it's the road or the balancing but some roads sure put the balancers and the drivers patience to test.
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Leveling System Color Diagram.pdf
Good diagram for the Valid system but doesn't show all of the air brakes, PPV etc.
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14 minutes ago, StellaTariche said:
Hi Todd,
If you know a machine shop, perhaps they could take the replacement ball joint and create an internally threaded sleeve for you. It should not be an expensive piece to make.
Welding the threaded sleeve into the original crimped area will fix the ball joint problem AND allow you to adjust the length of the drag link, which is critical to getting the rig to track straight, and for removing lash (play) in the steering. Plus, if needed in the future, you can replace the ball joint again.
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That is a good idea. I would have done that except there was a long turn around time at all of the machine shops I checked.
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Just one option depending on what yours is.
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What axle do you have? My coach has a Spicer E1462W so I go to the Spicer manual to find parts. There should be a tag on the axle or your Monaco build sheet may have it, mine does. If a boot is torn but no damage to the ball joint you can replace the boot, just pop the ball joint loose for access. The drag link is a specific length with specific bends to make sure there is no interference when moving through its whole range of movement. Monaco installed a drag link with the ball joint crimped at the steering arm end to eliminate any chance of rotation resulting in interference. I cut mine out, put a new ball joint in and welded it back together, a $50 fix rather than a $1000 fix. All other ball joints are easily removed.
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Thanks, I got what I needed for this problem.
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Anyone have the 2008 Diplomat wiring diagram file? It is a Multiplex Chassis version. Neighbor has Passenger Sun Visor stuck down and I help him enough to want the whole wiring diagram set.
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Mike, that's a good idea. I'm sure everyone will want a long term report as that spa hose gets very stiff in cold weather and has stymied more than a few of us. My Signature drain line is routed completely different so I don't think I can use the swivel but I'll certainly look at that the next time I'm in there.
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36 minutes ago, throgmartin said:
My bedroom AC unit gave up the ghost a month ago. It took that long to get one of my techs here to check it out ( there is no benefit to owning an RV service company. I still have to wait in line for service 🙂
Turns out the AC unit blew its charge. The downside ? It is a brand new penguin II. The Upside ? It is still under warranty. I have been advised by my director that despite being the owner of the service company I have to go to the back of the line and wait to have it replaced. I have no travel plans so I wont pull rank and demand it is fixed immediately. 🙂
Curious what was the leak? How long is the wait? Most of the time I would fix it myself rather than wait, especially in the summertime.
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7 minutes ago, planodp said:
I have a 2011 Longhorn Edition, Mega Cab with no DEF or DPF. And no EGR cooler either. Boy does she have POWER. I wish that my ISM 500 would pull like the Ram.
Hook it up to your Executive and drag it, I don't think you will be as impressed when dragging 50,000 lbs. or so.
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Cummins Quickserve, sign in with your engine number, select Manuals, select Owners Manual, maintenance specifications, cooling system. It should list the min-max pressure cap.
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10 hours ago, RustyH said:
I researched the Sani-con 600 turbo a little but saw some complaints about the factory discharge hose bursting which would indicate it has enough head pressure to lift the waste water in to the tank but the discharge hose may need to be a little higher working pressure, it also looks like you could install a pressure switch the discharge side of the pump to open and cut the power to the pump off if it over pressures, any thoughts?
With the Sanicon Turbo 600 I have had 2 or 3 hose failures, always when a 3/4" garden hose was attached to the end. I now use 1.5" Lay Flat Hose attached to the end of the Sanicon hose and have pumped 200' a number of times. You just have to avoid any kinks in the lay flat hose.
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Wow, I just looked at the 2008 Dynasty Owners Manual, It has zero information on the Aladdin System. FWIW, my Signature's Aladdin display is the same as Bills, willbo777.
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The TRC 40250 Transfer Switch has a data connection to the Aladdin system. It is a great display, you can monitor amp, voltage, solar, etc. on the Aladdin display. A Signature has the ability to easily exceed 50 amps & I could watch the amps as things were turned on. That was even more useful when on 30 amp power. Mine failed in Mexico so I dissected it there, what a mistake! I didn't realize there are no replacements that communicate with the Aladdin system. I replaced it with a Southco 40350RVC and remote display which works great but I sure miss that data on the Aladdin.
I also had the Automatic Energy Selector fail a few years ago. I replaced it and bought a spare. Since it controls the rear A/C unit I want to be able to do a quick one time repair and get the A/C going again.
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33 minutes ago, bmulvenna@hotmail.com said:
Thanks, but these are not small openings. They are gaps of 4 to 12 itches under the dashboard.
That large gap is to the front end cap?? I would prefer tape, fiberglass, foam or any filler other than spray foam. I cannot imagine the PITA of working in that area after it was spray foamed.
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9 hours ago, Tom Wallis said:
It's a matter of preference or convenience. Either method will work for you. I prefer the battery maintainer because if anything it will have a positive effect on your battery.
Agree, I use a battery tender brand & wouldn't trust most off brand maintainers. Only downside of disconnecting the battery is resetting all of the vehicle radio settings etc.. It's not uncommon for an old style golf car charger to burn the house down.
Step well courtesy lights
in Electrical Systems
Posted
The 2007 Signature used a Hella courtesy step light, the Hella LED direct replacement is 8560 Series Hella 8560 Series 958126001