MHRookie

2 hours ago, Dr4Film said:

MOV = Metal Oxide Varistor

The heart of many surge protectors available today is a small electronic component called a metal oxide varistor (MOV). The role of the MOV is to divert surge current, however, MOVs wear out with use. As more surges are diverted, the MOV's life span shortens, and failure becomes imminent.

is there a "testing" process or is it a replace when fail part?  

55 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:

OK….THINK OUT OF THE BOX….  Do you have a TRC SurgeGuard ATS (kind with Surge Suppression)?  If so….the MOV’s may be suspect.  If a NON Surge Protection ATS….AND NO Surge Suppressor?.?.

Then, I’d consider a Progressive HW50C.  It has your “gauges”…..but it also protects your electrical devices from about 10 or so “fatal or semifatal” conditions…..the ugly one is an OPEN NEUTRAL.  We have had maybe 100 - 150 plus incidents over the years.  Most were pedestal issues, but many were internal….simple thing like a small “tap” to the 50A molded plug that opened the Neutral.  YES…happened to me.  You then can measure 150-175 VAC on BOTH sides (L1 & L2) of the two 120VAC lines. UGLY does it an injustice describe.

YES….adding the current taps will solve your original problem.  But if you do NOT have Surge protection…..and if you have the TRC, then you may have to “fix” it.  The Progressive, and now current “knock offs” was the FIRST unit designed for plug in or hardwired….with FIELD Serviceable “boards”.  Plug and play and you have error codes.

Just a thought….you’ll spend less time installing a GOOD surge protector and get the benefits.  BTW…an open neutral typically, if not caught, do upwards of $1000 damage….and one member topped $10,000.  The TV and electronics….like the Microwave do NOT tolerate 150-175 VAC LONG.  Also the AC motors do not like it….

Your MH….Your situation….but also some background on the most expensive and common “failure”…

Tom,

     Thanks for the info here.  I actually have two surge protection measures.  The original surge box installed on the coach (the name escapes me but I know it's NOT the company that made the bad transfer switches).  It might be the "TRC" but I'd have to look.  The small box just has Line 1 & 2 green led's and below that are red.  Thats all the box says is SURGE so I know it won't auto shut down during high or low voltages.  Next up is the Southwire Surgeguard w/auto shut off (installs on the pedestal).  

"MOV'S" - this is something you'll have to enlighten me on.  I assume it has to do with testing the "installed" surge box equipment??? Enlighten me and I'll look into it.  Looking at my wiring diagram, and internet, my surge is a "Leviton" suppressor and it is NOT an all-in-one surge/transfer switch box.  

I am very OCD when it comes to electrical info.  I may not know a ton about the "how to install bits" but I know how to test and check things.  I check the pedestal surgegaurd daily (especially when a lot is running), just to see what the AMP load is on each leg.  Thats' how I was comparing the digital Surgeguard vs analog dial gauge.  I was going to purchase a newer Hughes AF Watchdog PWD50epo as they have a bluetooth app to monitor gauges.  Yes, the Progressive and Hughes product are recommended as they are serviceable.  My current Southwire is not (it does have the protections as you mention above).

Thanks Ivan, I’ll send you a PM for some clarity.

1 hour ago, Ivan K said:

I have replaced couple of ours with these, about a year ago and working fine. The other two are now unused, saving space for whatever in the future.

Ivan K,

     Those look like the link that Dr4 sent me.  Are these the units with 4 wires on the back and a ring terminal that a wire runs through?

With yours, is all the wiring done inside the overhead using the wires from the analog dial fixture?

These would be perfect!

Thanks!

2 hours ago, Dr4Film said:

Is this what you are looking for?

https://tinyurl.com/bd754wvh

Dr4Film,

     These look similar to Ivan’s picture.  I found these today on Amazon and this spurred my post.  Depending on Ivan’s reply, I think this is the direction I will go.   Hope all working is done in the overhead with existing wires.  
 

thanks for reply!

All, 

2003 Dynasty princess.

I currently have the original analog dial AC power in & amp use gauges.  Curious about any upgrades out there that anyone has any experience about.

i know my amp use readings are not correct for either leg.  It always reads low (never gets over 10).  When I look at pedestal surgeguard, it shows higher amp draws (that match more closely with appliances being used & on).  I think the dial gauges are adjustable by the tiny screw under the dials but curious about any digital options.

thanks for any input.

Kurt

I cannot tell for certain but it sure appears you will need to remove the reducer before bag removal.  I don’t see a cutout in the top mount the fitting will fit thru.  

1 hour ago, MichaelU295 said:

Hi Benjamin,

Yes, my plunger is moving freely.  The coil resistant is only measured 1 ohm and drew 18 Amp of current.  It stripped the circuit breaker (10A) next to it.  I ordered one from Amazon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0792CR47G?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details. 

Hi Kurt,

This may be a new topic regarding Leece Neville alternator.  Please share your info.  My alternator 4884JB ate belts like every 500 miles.  I'm not sure if my PTO pulley (Cummins ISM500) or my alternator is the culprit. I'm considering rebuild my alternator too.  Please also share if you have info about rebuild kit.

Sent you a PM but one other note.  I would not hesitate getting a replacement ALT from AJ’s electric under $500 last I checked.

56 minutes ago, Just Jim said:

Grampy... I had that exact same system and replaced the isolation box, boost solenoid and maintainer with the Blue Sea ML ACR.  Before replacing old tech parts you might want to consider that option.  Its not a bad upgrade and there are lots of threads on here of how to complete.  I just finished running the switch up to the dash this weekend and can save you a bunch of time on that if you need it.

Jim

I second looking at this if/when you need to replace existing parts.  Installing the bluesea unit also allows you to change to a more affordable alternator when/if your Leece Neville fails (to a 28si alternator).  

The only item I found available is a “new chip” on eBay.  It says it’s installed on a RC7 remote to make it a RC7gs remote…$200.

You’ll need the manual for how to access the remote menus.  Quite possible the settings need redone.

I’d do as Tom says and perform a “hard restart” BUT read manual because it says when connecting battery cables, to do it in order.  ALSO, label the negative cables (chassis & batt) accordingly so you don’t cross them up when reconnecting.

One confusing thing, you say your “Batt Full” light is green & on steady…. The only green light on the remote is “inverter”, the others are only amber or red.

The rc7 does have an equalizing option but has to be turned on manually by pressing the right arrow button for 8 seconds and same button & duration to cancel. Then charge will return to absorb for a short period and then float.

Hope the hard start fixes the issue.

Steven,

Word on the street is read internet articles by this guy… Mark Quasius.  He’s supposed to be the Tiffin guru. The only added issue I found besides yours was a 2008 issue with the windshield popping out du to chassis flex (the article didn’t state if it was the power glide or Freightliner chassis though).

Again, ask the pre ious owners about that.  Other than that, it looks like a solid coach from choice.

Good luck!

I did find some other info about the throttle position sensor.  If it’s not returning or showing full release, it will keep the Jake brake from engaging.  You might look into resetting it, not sure on the type you have.

Sorry, didn’t notice the earlier post of no foot switch.

The only way I know how to test while stationary is by the high idle.  Does your navigator have that feature using the cruise control buttons (make sure engine temp is above 86 deg before activating high idle).

aside from that, your going to have to call Holiday Rambler to get the wiring schematics I’m afraid.

I need to verify…. Does your Jake brake system have role foot pedal?  I just went through some similar issues and it ended up being the micro switch inside the pedal. 
To test… start coach & let run a bit then….turn on cruise, and select “set” - to enable high idle…. Let it run a min then hit the Jake pedal… it should turn high idle off.  See how long the delay is (if any).  
if it continually turns idle off quickly, then that’s not the issue..

Happycarz,

    From your picture, you are using one 15 amp fused wire to feed power to both high & low relays… correct?

Thank you,

Kurt

1 hour ago, NAMVET77 said:

Richard

I’m about read to rebuild the air valves on each 6 pac on my 04 Camelot. I wasn’t planning on removing the manifold. Guess it depends on how good or bad it looks. My question is where did you get the spare coils?  I checked with HWH and they want over $100 bucks for each one. The guy I talked to didn’t know what the resistance each coil should be. I’ve heard 10 or 15 ohms. The spare I have measures 11 ohms. I guess I could do a voltage check to see if the coil activates the air valve. 

NWrvsupply is another source for coils.

Richard,

     Didn’t know if you saw this or not.  Not real definitive but it’s all I could find for manifold part numbers. Just scroll towards bottom of page to see breakouts.  I only found one “manifold” page and all the coils or valve kits are the same numbers…

(Forgot if I can post links to web pages… so I left off)…I googled HWH parts list and found a live page with links.  
then selected “air control units”.  I never did see a breakdown of specific model units.

7 hours ago, Ivan K said:

Do you know what ABS system you have? My codes come in pairs, for instance 4-6 would be left rear sensor. I had 17-1 and it was a broken retarder relay wire, so it depends...

What device are you using to retrieve codes?

Here is the condition of my VIP SM209 board.  I didn’t take off the plugs because there is no discoloration on them or the board.

the discoloration on the back lines up with the furthest left 25amp relay.  It’s not mounted as flush as the others are.  Anyone with solder & motherboard experience weigh in….  Does this warrant replacement or can it be repaired?

Thanks,

Kurt

On 1/22/2024 at 5:19 PM, Tom Cherry said:

YOUTUBE is your friend.  YES, Bob is probably right.  Learn HOW to do this. NOW, Monaco does "imbed" or maybe put shrink tubing over the diodes. I have them in a wiring harness for my slides. Start at the point on the dash and start working back. You should see a BULGE or such. There may be the corrugated split tubing over the harness....slide or open it up and keep tracing. Eventually, there will be a place where they are. 

NOW....you will probably have to "cut" the leads to isolate the diodes.  NOT AN ISSUE.  Just have a Ratcheting Crimper and use a BUTT splice (End to end) connector and put them back in.  Probably number 12 or 14 wire.  Just use the right size and reconnect. That will be fine.  

I can't tell you that this IS the problem... but your ghost is a bugger... and a bad diode can really mess things up.  BUT....there are so many gremlins...  I would verify all the grounds to the dash and such.  I would also install NEW (OEM Bosch from Amazon) relays in all the circuits that are impacted...  THEN probably start exploring...

Tom,

     Just a report…. No joy, all diodes tested good.  Digging in all the spaghetti was a little nerve racking but not too bad.

     Tomorrow I am going to send you a picture of my VIP control board and see if you think the soldering & a slight discoloration may warrant replacement or looks alright.

I’ve read a lot of CIP threads and there isn’t really a silver bullet fix, but I think I may tackle requiring all the harness from the Monaco plug to the control board.  Just need to figure out how to tackle larger wire but keeping the same pin size on the VIP end.

thanks & if you can think of another possible troubleshoot item…shoot away.

Kurt

Ivan,

     Yes the original isolator, batt boost solenoid, lambert all did the same thing as the ML-ACR…. Charge batteries… nothing is smart about either method other than newer technology AND change the requirement of a Leece Nevell alternator (I got a duvac 28si).

I did at one point (about 80%) have the old trace out and a newer pure sine installed but I got the wrong one so had to hook everything back up.  Maybe that has started my issue… no way to tell.

I will be replacing the current set up this spring when I get back home.

thanks for your time & thoughts.  At the end of the day, nothing is getting hot or no odd smells so I am off the path of the coach burning down at this point.

Tom, I’m going to guess this print showing all the dash lights that these “diodes” would be in the dash contain off the top panel and search!  
Next, the harder question… do you just ohm test a diode - meter lead on each side & ignition switch on or off?

Tom & others… latest info.

Shut down all power to coach & let batteries rest for a few hours.  Prior to shut down RG7 remote said house at 100%, charge light blinking & batt full light on

All 2 house batts measured 6.65 & 2 @ 6.68

plugged everything back in…..

Back at ML-ACR - house at 14.6 / chassis @ 12.7 -then ACR latched and both banks @ 14.6 (at ACR @ on each bank by voltmeter)

come inside coach - RG7 remote said absorption charge & battery SOC is 76%…. (Within an hour, it should switch to float and say 100% and banks at 13.6…

I’d say my issue lies in the inverter/charger & RG7.  Checked inverter in bay and it’s humming but I cannot tell if fans are blowing (don’t feel anything).  Also, the on/off button doesn’t turn off the remote like it’s supposed to.

any additional things I should check?

thanks! 

This issue has come back….. and it morphed….

New ignition installed….So……

1) turn key on, NO pre-start lights nor alert tone from dash

2) turn key on, pre-start lights appear but NO alert tone

3) turn key on, all works as normal

All 3 options can take place BUT the morph(s) are….

option 1, no smartwheel functions 

option 2, some smartwheel functions work (mainly the “high idle” option doesn’t work

option 3, everything works normal

chassis master switch and option 1… cycle master off THEN when move to on…. It makes the horn blare (turn master off only way to stop).

2 days ago, OPTION 2 event but coach started and we departed anyway… 1/2 way into trip went to turn on headlights AND they AND the Horn blared… horn off with headlight switch off.  THEN, I pushed another button on wheel and Horn and wipers went off, had to pull over and mess with VIP wire harness to stop (unhooked “washer pump” wire (purple) and all stopped & wheel functions worked normal… 

DAY 4… turn key start & Option 1.  Cycled master & horn blared.  Removed all wires from VIP board, then turn on master, started coach, plugged in wires on at a time on vip (except washer pump) and everything functioned normal through trip (headlights and wipers worked normally thank goodness since I had to use them).

starting the troubleshoot journey.

Is there a “master” ground that splits off to all the ground bars?

VIP - I’m working this….. as others have stated IMMI troubleshoot tree doesn’t jive with Monaco’s wiring but initial diagnose shows all was in spec

 Clock spring - is there a way to test  this device?

sorry it’s a long post but trying to get as much info as possible out…. 
 

thanks for any direction …

Happycarz,

this post being Camelot specific, I assume these coaches also have the smartwheel functions?  Does this “relay add” help to reduce the overheating of the circuit that melted wires at the VIP board?