MHRookie

2003 Monaco Dynasty.

We are on shore power

woke up to see inverter charging issue (not charging).  Went to RRB to see amp l start not showing any batteries hooked up (house & chassis blinking red).

turned off chassis battery disconnect to test some things

** when I turn batt disconnect switch back on, the horn starts blowing)**. WTH??

both solenoids in RRB have power on both sides (even when chassis batt is off).  That seems wrong but that’s not causing horn to blow…

any ideas on what to test next?

Marked a solution as to keep locks installed.

post morphed into extending/retracting slides & original topic is mute at this point.  
 

thanks everyone!

6 hours ago, Ivan K said:

Is it a deep slide? I have shallow slide that never had any lock provisions. As long as the hydraulic system is tight, it does not move. It was problematic when I had a leak.

Ivan, yes it’s deep.  Extended is 31 inches total.

This is the LR Hyd HWH slide system.  I level coach as outlined in book.  Over time front part of slide has relaxed and needs lifted to keep slide locks from damaging slide wiper seal.  It was recommended to remove the slide locks. 
still not real comfortable with that idea.  I know it’s Hydraulically secured but the top half can still move around.  
just wondering if others have removed them and how it’s going.

Monaco Dynasty…

has anyone gotten advice to remove slide locks to fix a clearance issue with slideout?

How’s it working??

I’m not real comfortable with that advice.

Curious…
 

All, there are no solutions as of yet.  I guess I will have to go see Talin in Florida.  I’ve gotten information from other facilities and it’s unfortunate NOBODY has any solid advice.  I’m still working this issue, I’m going to start driving RV parks and introducing myself to owners and see if I can look at their coaches to compare… that’s about my best option at this point

20 minutes ago, cowpoke said:

I've been watching this thread with interest as I'm sorta in the same boat. I decided I wanted to put the Guardian Plates on my 07 Signature, especially the slide behind  the driver as I'd noticed a small amount of rot on the end of the slide opposite the driver end. So I contacted Talin RV in Florida and they gave me instructions to find The rollers and tell them how many there are on my coach. Well I couldn't find any. Got hold of Talin again and they told me I would  have to put a jack on each end of the slide and jack it up a bit so I could lift the rubber seal and look for my rollers. I may add that the bottom of all four slides on my coach has white sheeting of some sort and no marks of any kind from a roller, but maybe they don't leave any. When I was in contact with Talin I was in Texas And I just got back to my home in Alberta and my shop, so I Haven't tackled any of this yet. I should mention also that when this slide is coming in it makes some crunching noise on the end behind the driver. I guess what I'd like to know is--can you get access to what is going on with your slide from the basement. Also, are there coaches with no rollers on the slides.. I'm half scared this slide won't come in one day and I want to avoid that.. This slide behind driver on drivers side lifts up and comes in over top of main floor.   I'd be very appreciative of any and all advise---thank you kindly

 

Cowpoke,

you have a signature so I’m no help but I know for 100%, I have no rollers  for my slide.  I can only access the rail system in the fuel/propane tank bay (front).  Replacing rail “bearing” wear pads would be easy.  The rear is a little different & would be a bit harder - not impossible but tighter.

HWH’s website says slide adjustment info is “under construction”. I do understand that they merely sold the system to a mfg and didn’t really have control how it was installed but adjustment principles should still apply.

There should be some places in Washington/Oregon you can call to get some assistance perhaps.  I know Chris & Talin have been great and do awesome work but Florida isn’t real centrally located.  I’ve told him twice if he was closer to me, I’d be plugged into his 50amp waiting my turn.😂😂

Best of luck to you and I’m still at NO SOLUTION.  Last tech shop was no help.

21 minutes ago, Ivan K said:

Mine is also roadside behind driver but seems to be different. Maybe yours is drop-down flush floor type.

That is correct it is a drop down flush floor

4 minutes ago, Ivan K said:

Our 2000 has 2 rollers under sofa mounted from underneath the coach floor, one in the wheel well, the other in compartment behind it. Protected by ABS covers. Two more mounted to slide frame under the kitchen counter that run over tile floor. But we don't have teflon sliders so yours could be different.

Ivan, my slide is on roadside behind driver.  I only have 2 slides.  All on drivers side.  Sounds like we are a bit different.

3 minutes ago, Ivan K said:

Are you certain there are no rollers? Our HWH hydraulic slide in that position has 4 rollers, two of them inverted.

IvanK,

   I’ve lifted the lower wiper seal to verify and there are not any rollers.  The flat Teflon bottom has no markings or damage either. 

What year & compartment do you access your rollers?

All - looking for anyone with adjustment knowledge only.

     2003 Monaco Dynasty 42, living room slide (couch & fridge in slide) behind driver.  No rollers for this slide.  Mounting is as follows.  Main rails (2) are welded to chassis frame.  Inner tubes extend/retract.  The ONLY adjustments for this mechanism are: extend/retract and vertical adjust rod at end of rail (where mounts to slide).  Paint lines on slide are lower than coach & the top left corner is damaging the wiper seal (its the closest corner to the slide opening).

QUESTION:  Which option below is intended to "lift" the slide? OR, is this merely just to ease the retraction angle on the system?

1. Turning the vertical adjust rod clockwise moves the rail closer to the slide floor (this lessons the "angle" on the rail when extended).

2. Turning vertical adjust rod counterclockwise, the end of rail moves further from slide floor (more angle on rail when extended).

HWH is no help, they've told me they only sell the slide to the mfg.  REV has passed on this matter as well (coach was built by previous owners). This is NOT like the Winnie "storemore" installation with all the adjusting points.  Common sense tells me #2 is the lift option.  Would like to confirm.  As we've established on this site before, we are running out of "experts" to just take the coach to.  I don't want to trial & error it yet since it's already damaging the wiper.

Thanks for reading & possible assistance.

20 hours ago, 96 EVO said:

What is the black material out at the ends of the plates? 

Looks like some kind of tape?

Another question regarding having them installed at Talin. When I received my slides, I believe the instructions included not moving the slides for several days while the 5200 set-up.

Does Chris just keep stuffing you with fresh lobster till this happens 😎? 

The black items are poly blocks.  Has nothing to do with the plates.

I cannot answer if they feed you for 5 days.

My 2003 Dynasty has intellitec & relay in pump bay right next to eachother under water distribution manifold

On 3/14/2023 at 7:31 AM, tmw188 said:

If I can’t get a repair kit for my OE Pump leaking I’m looking for some recommendations. The current pump is a 5.3 gpm. I don’t have a accumulator tank and it surges depending on the demand. It may be over sized. What size pumps do many if you have and any suggestions. I’m not really wanting a tank currently just a pump. There are many 3-3.5gpm pumps online. This is what I have. Aquatec 

Don’t waste time trying to get a repair kit.  I learned that yesterday.  It appears they only sell AG rated pump parts.  
 

camping world has the best sale going right now over internet pricing.  Good luck.

17 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:

FWIW, the original AquaTech pumps (the RV55) were made in California and Remco bought the rights (they still may be made there or maybe offshore or maybe in a Remco factory).  My 2009 was a CA pump and I dealt, many times with their tech support.  They did NOT recommend an accumulator tank as it would give erratic results with their "pressure control chip".  Now SOME members did leave them in place....so there is no hard and fast rule.

There were two versions of the pump.  One was agricultural as in a pump & tank pump spraying rig.  The other was the RV.  I have NO idea, and I doubt Remco would, as to why there were different seals and such...if there were.  BUT, the Agricultural one, still being manufactured, states that is NOT SAFE FOR POTABLE WATER USE...

 

Tom... so if I do remove the "pressure/accumulator" tank, I would just need to put a plug in that fitting and all would be well correct?  nothing different than a dead end water line the way I see it...

If you remove the original accumulator tank, do you just install a plug in the fitting? 
 

Curious… when I look up viton, it says it can be used in fresh water applications.  If you treat your storage tank, there should be enough chlorine to prevent bacteria I would think (or whatever the camco treatment is).

4 hours ago, Ivan K said:

If you always had an unusual delay, there is a parameter in the ECM where delay could have been intentionally defined.

No, the delay I am experiencing now is a new symptom.  Originally, it activated upon the flip of the switch (what you are thinking is a "short delay").  the current delay is almost a "one thousand four" then the tranny selector goes to 2nd gear.

6 hours ago, Dr4Film said:

This switch at Amazon should work fine for your purpose. I purchased one to use with the Blue-Ox TruCenter and wired it NO. Then when I stepped on the switch it would be in the closed position.

https://tinyurl.com/3j5xyhyk

Dr4Film - thanks, this information is what I meant by "lack of knowledge" for replacements... I really thought I hit the jackpot until I compared the ratings on the switches for service duty parameters.  

So, next question for the team...  as the pedal sits on the floor untouched, the internal parts are depressing the switch plunger.  Then we depress the pedal and it activated the system.

So is this a N.O. switch or a N.C. switch?

Thanks everyone!  I know I can do the test as noted above, but coach is in storage and not wanting to take it apart again.  I probably will to verify if the plunger action is causing the delay or not.

4 hours ago, DavidL said:

Yes, the switch highly likely only needs to switch a very small amount of current.

Does your current switch still work at all?  If so, use your VOM and put it on ohm.  Then, connect the VOM to both switch connections.  If it is Open when foot off, that would be Normally Open switch.  Then, close the switch...does the Ohms go shorted?  that is what I would expect.  Then, virtually any foot switch that is Normally Open can work.

Yes, it still works but I am getting quite a delay before it engages.  I took apart and cleaned everything and adjusted the rocker inside thinking that over time, it’s sprung which requires nearly bottoming out the pedal to engage.

All,

     Wasn't sure if this went under electronics, chassis, engine.... moderator place accordingly.. (sorry)

trying to troubleshoot the foot switch micro switch.  looking for replacement switch (my WM-2R555729 switch is obsolete - 125,250,277 VAC - 3/4hp-125; 1/1/2 hp 250 VAC).  First, is this switch a SPST or SPDT?  it only has 2 wires so I think its single/single...foot off switch, current is broken, when pedal is depressed, current flows.  That's my analysis.

Next - this switch is rated for 22a... I cannot for the life of me think this switch would see this type of load.  I think the switch is way over rated for the service type??

Linemaster makes a product that looks exactly like this foot switch but they only have switches related for 16a (120/250 1/2 hp....).

As you all guess... I am NOT an electrical genius....  I'd rate my skills as a 5 on a 1-10 scale.  I know how to run a DVOM and test lights but when it comes to "understanding" alternative options/replacement....  yep, I got to phone a friend.......  Hello.......  it's the 3rd ring.

Thanks for listening and the feedback!

Kurt

12 minutes ago, Jdw12345 said:

I think you have to be above 15mph for the Jake to actuate, I don’t have a Jake pedal but I do believe you have to be rolling, I believe you’ll have to go for a test ride.

Thanks JDW… 

43 minutes ago, Dr4Film said:

If you are at a stop light not moving with the brake pedal pushed, the transmission indicator should be at 1 not 2 in (D)rive unless you are in (N)eutral, then it should read 0.

Not sure what you mean by "push your pedal", what pedal are you referring to?

I’m troubleshooting the jake brake pedal (I’m in a parking lot).  If not moving and brake off with transmission in drive… if you push the jake pedal does the tranny selector switch to “2”?.

I’m wondering if it can be verified tested by NOT driving it.  It’s not that big a deal if I have to road test just curious if I don’t have to.

Can anyone tell me if you are NOT moving & park brake off and you push your pedal does the transmission selector still change to “2”?

I had a no working issue and found wire off post on head (it worked), then had some smartwheel issues.  Haven’t driven coach yet but was wondering if above question will verify Jake function or if I need to take it for a spin.

41 minutes ago, ph1386 said:

I have the sm210. Any idea where I can get one?

Ph1836 - I sent you a PM to read… update… I just looked AND company name is IMMINET.COM

Ph1386,

     You need to get the VIP troubleshooting document and go through the steps to help identify the issue.  2 pieces to the puzzle..

SM209/SM210 board OR Clock Spring

VIP uses 4 boards 209/210 are interchangeable… 211 & 213 are NOT - so you really need to verify which one you have and use the right testing document.

Doing the tests, you may find that the contacts need to be cleaned in the wiring harnesses so systems make good contact again.

best of luck.

Don’t rule out the shower faucet mixing valve.  I had to change ours out and that solved the hot water issue for us.

If you have to turn lever to “full” hot to get warm water, consider this.

This don’t pertain to the 3rd in line person…. AH needs to recover.