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MHRookie

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Posts posted by MHRookie

    Love My 2006 Dynasty ISL-400 & Engine Brake / How About You?

    in Engine, Transmission, Engine Cooling, & Hydraulics

    Posted

    On 10/19/2022 at 8:12 AM, Dr4Film said:

    Hi Steve,

    I am using the data from the SilverLeaf to obtain my mpg because both the generator and Aqua-Hot use diesel from the same tank. So, I have no way to calculate accurately how much gets used by those two devices versus just the engine using the number of gallons pumped divided by the miles driven.

    My cruise control is non-functional right now. So, I can't use it. It will turn on, but the SET and RES buttons will not work to set the cruise control speed. Hopefully it is an easy fix by replacing the SM210 control box someday when they become readily available.

    Had the same problem with the CC on the Windsor but could never find a new control box to install before it got sold.

    Have you performed the smart-wheel tests to rule out the steering wheel clock spring?  I have intermittent issues After I turn on headlights but have not done the tests yet.  Just curious.

    2003 power status meters

    in Electrical Systems

    Posted

    48 minutes ago, waterskier_1 said:

    Also, that current spec is at a specific voltage.  As the actual voltage goes up from the spec, the current will go down - as the voltage goes down, the current will go up. 

    Also remember that the accuracy of the readouts (meters, either analog or digital) that are used in our coaches are likely +/- 5% at best, possibly +/- 10%.  They are not laboratory gradecalibrated instruments.  At 5% of 110VAC that is +/- 5.5 Volts, meaning the actual voltage could be 104.5 - 115.5 VAC on your meter.  My recommendation is to select one meter to use, and then compare readings only on that meter.  Having 3-4 different meters, all reading differently, but all likely within tolerance, is just too confusing for many. 

     - Rick N 

    Rick,

         good insight.  I’ve got good direction to start verifying good starting points.

    my experience is quite a bit more off.

    with a/c on, I get 10 amps on meter & 16amp at pole surge guard - when hot water kicks on, meter don’t go above 10 & I don’t know what surge guard says.

    thanks,

    Kurt

    2003 power status meters

    in Electrical Systems

    Posted

    Tom,

         One of the reasons I chose the 2003.  Simple manual monitor systems (no Aladdin).

    I’ve started looking at other power monitor options.

    my a/c specs say my units only run at 13 amps but the surge guard shows 17 & 19 respectively on that device.  

    Residential fridge venting

    in Appliances

    Posted

    1 hour ago, Tom Cherry said:

    Moderator's EDIT.....Duplicate Topic.  Merged into last topic with details.

    Kurt,

    Please do a search before posting a "generic help me" post.  There have been many posts on this over the years. You will find the answer .....  I actually wrote a How To with pictures in this post.  Scroll up or go to Page 2.  All the info you need is there. 

    NOW.  IF you have the ROOF Vent and NOT a side top vent, you need to pull the roof vent cover off and totally insulate the interior.

    If you are contemplating installing a Residential refrigerator, then if you have the insulation on the side walls between the refrigerator and the interior walls, that MUST be removed.  IMPERATIVE. If you leave it in, you will not have proper air circulation for the Residential Unit. The Gas units were totally different.  The insulation was both a heat barrier and also, somewhat of a CO2 safety issue.

    Good Luck.

    Tom,

         Thanks for the tid bit but I had searched and was specifically asking about the “solid panel”.


     My 2003 has an residential upgrade and I’ve closed off the vents but would like the “solid” panel if available.  Guess I know my options & path forward since it doesn’t appear the product exists.

    good day..

    Residential fridge venting

    in Appliances

    Posted

    Wondering if anyone knows where to get a solid cover.  I have a residential fridge so no need for vents.  I‘ve only seen a couple coaches have them.  Possibly custom??  With all the eyes on this site, I’ll give it a shot.

    happy trails,

    mhrookie

    Brake parts?

    in Tires & Wheels

    Posted · Edited by MHRookie

    Start researching parts for the ADB1560 brake system.  This is what my 2003 took.  The rotors are the difficult piece to this puzzle.  The shop is going to have to take one off to get the part numbers off to cross reference.  I hope this helps.

    Book will show a left & right caliper.  Monaco used same part & just flipped it on mine.  Pads were easiest to find

    Good luck.  Here is my info I used to search from numbers on my coach parts

    obsolete Meritor but have narrowed it down to:  A1 or A2 - 3263M1157’s  - it depends on the number stamped on the end of the shaft on the slack adjuster.  To note (it could be L or R BUT one can be used for both.  I doubt I’ll need calipers and since pads are common I’ve stopped looking).

    brake pads are: KIT15616(single) / 15626PM (set)

    Blue fire vs Scan gauge

    in General Motorhome Discussion

    Posted

    11 minutes ago, Ivan K said:

    I am in your corner too. RPM, coolant and oil temp and oil pressure. My little gauges work and if their needles point up, I'm good. Old racer trick, no time to read numbers. Never had a trouble code but if it happened, I have Insite to look into it.

    Agreeing with you & Tim. Thanks for your insight.

    Blue fire vs Scan gauge

    in General Motorhome Discussion

    Posted

    What’s an honest “poll” of these products??  Need some feedback.  Looking at dash upgrade.

    Scan gauge is a small unit but seems reliable.  Getting codes is a slight challenge

    Blue Fire - website forum is full of negative hassle type issues, Bluetooth sync signal issues.

    I’m in a 2003 Dynasty.  I’m not going to upgrade to silverleaf or anything like that.

    My Monaco Ghost is back

    in Body, Awning, Roof, Slides, & Steps

    Posted

    Did you check voltage at switch with a meter or just by trying to operate switch?

    I recently found that the factory didn’t strip the wires far enough so the copper strands finally came out of the spade connector.  I unplugged & ohm’d the switch and it works; when putting back together the spade fell off the end of the wire.

    good luck finding your issue.  Electrical gremlins can drive a person crazy.

    Brake caliper/rotor/pad info

    in Compressed Air Systems

    Posted · Edited by MHRookie

    Txcamping & Hockeydiesel,

     

    the 03’ Dynasty parts are NOT the same as what you show in pictures above.  I will get the final list together for reference.  What I am NOT comfortable with is that all 03’s use the same parts.  It’s all going to be for reference only.  If people look at ADB1560 parts this will give an idea of a starting point.

    Front brake costs

    in Chassis, Handling, Tires & Brakes

    Posted · Edited by MHRookie

    I’ll share what I’ve found.  As we’ve all learned… Monaco was not real consistent here from year to year.

    Axle is: Eaton-Spicer #1460-W

    calipers: 3263L1156 (obsolete). eBay says $1500 w/out guts.

    Meritor gave A1 or A2 3263M1157 as today’s number - spendy!  I found aftermarket new with all internals for $550-ish.. find it parts.com using the 1157 number

    pad linings - KIT15625PM (4), KIT15616PM (2), KIT15626PM (4) - the book difference is emergency/fire or refuse.. 4 part kits = $380 & up

    ROTORS… ADB1560 gives 6 possible options - this will require take off & measuring (maybe steel brush & find stamp #’s).

    it’s been surprising hearing shops say we’ve not had to do a brake job on a coach.  They are heavy duty…  

    today’s price of updated assembly is ballpark of $9500+… no labor…

    Omaga 1 Awing

    in Body, Awning, Roof, Slides, & Steps

    Posted

    You should be able to Google and get the instructions.  You prewind the tube and use filter wrench to hold in place and insert fabric.  I believe it was 15 turns to preload.  You can also take the right arm loose and wind more if it needs it later, it’s just not as convenient.

    Brake caliper/rotor/pad info

    in Compressed Air Systems

    Posted

    4 hours ago, Hockeydiesel said:

    The following PN's fit an 05 Signature. Bendix ESD 225 brake system. Caliper - Haldex 790 - 94049 ( Same caliper all four positions.) Find it Parts , $1,192 plus shipping. Pads - Haldex 790 - 22012 , Jit truck parts , $175 free shipping. Front Rotor - Centric 120.86007 , Find it Parts , $276 free shipping. Rear Rotor - Webb 26741XM7T ( Monaco PN 976045 ) Iron Wing Sales , $349 free shipping. I hope this helps, Mike.

    Thanks… unfortunately none of those parts cross to anything I have yet.

    REV/Monaco parts could only provide me the axle info.. Spicer E1460-W.. then I was able to find the numbers cast on the calipers…

    obsolete Meritor but have narrowed it down to:  A1 or A2 - 3263M1157’s  - it depends on the number stamped on the end of the shaft in the slack adjuster can…. To note (it could be L or R BUT one can be used for both.  I doubt I’ll need calipers and since pads are common I’ve stopped looking).

    brake pads are: KIT15616/15626PM

    The rotor #’s are the dark horse for now.  There are 3 possibilities so far.
     

    The other common theme. Things are related to ADB1560 systems, it’s just that there are some variables.

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