MHRookie

This issue has come back….. and it morphed….

New ignition installed….So……

1) turn key on, NO pre-start lights nor alert tone from dash

2) turn key on, pre-start lights appear but NO alert tone

3) turn key on, all works as normal

All 3 options can take place BUT the morph(s) are….

option 1, no smartwheel functions 

option 2, some smartwheel functions work (mainly the “high idle” option doesn’t work

option 3, everything works normal

chassis master switch and option 1… cycle master off THEN when move to on…. It makes the horn blare (turn master off only way to stop).

2 days ago, OPTION 2 event but coach started and we departed anyway… 1/2 way into trip went to turn on headlights AND they AND the Horn blared… horn off with headlight switch off.  THEN, I pushed another button on wheel and Horn and wipers went off, had to pull over and mess with VIP wire harness to stop (unhooked “washer pump” wire (purple) and all stopped & wheel functions worked normal… 

DAY 4… turn key start & Option 1.  Cycled master & horn blared.  Removed all wires from VIP board, then turn on master, started coach, plugged in wires on at a time on vip (except washer pump) and everything functioned normal through trip (headlights and wipers worked normally thank goodness since I had to use them).

starting the troubleshoot journey.

Is there a “master” ground that splits off to all the ground bars?

VIP - I’m working this….. as others have stated IMMI troubleshoot tree doesn’t jive with Monaco’s wiring but initial diagnose shows all was in spec

 Clock spring - is there a way to test  this device?

sorry it’s a long post but trying to get as much info as possible out…. 
 

thanks for any direction …

Happycarz,

this post being Camelot specific, I assume these coaches also have the smartwheel functions?  Does this “relay add” help to reduce the overheating of the circuit that melted wires at the VIP board?

Vito,

coach+ & alt+ - hooked to one lug + wire hooked to a single fuse

house+ - hooked to other lug + wire to fuse block

ml-ACR neg - hooked to negative

no switch installed yet.

in storage - switch turned to on position & within 10 minutes, it senses inverter/charge presence & latches

driving - manually turn switch off - go start coach - within 10 min, it senses alt charge and latches - alt output is 14.2

nothing is getting hot & it seems like inverter is working correctly ( except absorption rate seems high). It gets house to 100% & changes to float mode at 13.6 & I auto latch banks to charge both

if I try to keep auto latched during absorption’s high rate, it makes dash radio flicker.  Also, if latched during start up, it seems like to much power as dash lights & tones don’t work.  If unlatched, works fine.

Bill & Ivan,

Ok, I’ll agree with that.  
My issue then is… with only the refrigerator on inverter and hooked to alternator while driving… house bank should stay fully charged (always were before).

then when stopped at night hooked up, it should NOT charge at 14.6 or higher absorption rate should it?

Thanks, I’ll keep the blog posted

Both banks are latched and charging at 14.4 and that reading is coming from my overhead solar charge display.

using a volt meter both banks are latched when checked at the bluesea in the RRV.

the trace rg7 display is what is showing non charging issue.

35 minutes ago, jacwjames said:

With the engine running suggest checking the voltage at the chassis battery and the house batteries.  My alternator charges at 14.2 volts.  Does the display for the inverter show this voltage?

Yes it does.  It’s acting like the inverter isn’t getting the charge signal.

1 hour ago, jacwjames said:

Are you sure your Bluesea is latching while driving allowing the alternator to charge the batteries?  You can confirm by starting the engine and monitoring the Bluesea and after ~1-2 minutes it will latch. 

Did you install the switch that allows you to select ON/OFF/Automatic?

Yes, it is latching.  I did not get the switch installed yet I am manually cycling the blue Sea.

Hey folks,

trying to troubleshoot an issue I’ve not encountered before…

2003 Monaco Dynasty w/ Trace RV2012 inverter & 2 yr old Trojan T-105’s for house.  Upgraded coach with Bluesea ML-ACR

Traveling, turn on inverter for refridge (not traveling long enough to use generator).

start off, batt’s are 100% & bank rate is at 14.2 from alternator.

by end of 5 hour run, inverter stops showing the “charge light” and shows bank at 74%.
 

when we stop overnight, absorption charge makes banks show 14.9 & while combined, the radio flickers… I then isolate the banks, and in about an hour the inverter shows 100%, float rate at 13.4 & charging.  I then reconnect banks to keep charged…

is the inverter on the Frits or could it possibly be a battery issue (1of4 fried??

thanks for any insight!

21 hours ago, BuddyL said:

good morning mr frank

where can i find the download files

 

 

Buddy,

     Log in to site, upper right corner click the 3 lines.  Find the “browse” link & click it.  Next page will show “downloads”… then you can look for what Frank mentioned.

Thanks again Mike.  Your tips/tricks are perfect.

Mike,

     Glad to see you are still sharing. Please don't take down your FASS install video... that's a summer project for me...

I'd like to summarize my questions to understand your process.  I'll underline the questions....

You used 4ea 22 ton jack stands (2 front & 2 rear) for the whole process?  I don't think my 22ton stand bases are as tall as yours, so I think I'll have to make longer supports.  Will you share what schedule tubing you used?

          ** Since I only have 2 stands, could the rear be "blocked" up - finish all the front bag R&R, then move to the back?  "Block" front & use stands in rear?

AIR concern..  You say to raise the bags as high as possible then support house w/ jack stands (I assume in the center as much as possible)?  Once you get the "H-frame" supported, do you then release all the air from the system?  I didn't read how you managed air release.

Tire removal - did you only remove 1 wheel/tire from one corner at a time, change bag, and install wheel/tire?  

Thanks again Mike, I've enjoyed learning from your updates/upgrades!

Kurt

Moderator,

     I was able to open the files above and attach as .jpeg.  If that’s not allowed please remove.  Since the OP of the pictures attached them here, I assumed that is consent to share.

7 hours ago, Paul Brown Jr said:

can you send these pictures to: brownjrpaulj@yahoo.com ? thanks

please send the pictures to my email: brownjrpaulj@yahoo.com,  thanks

I emailed you 2 of the 4 titled “Monaco braces”.  Since he said he’d make both ends 3”, you don’t need the other 2 pictures.

Chris,

     I’m afraid you’ll need to contact magnum direct or a rebuild shop.  The only free online schematic you’ll see relate to installation specs.

best of luck….

59 minutes ago, Venturer said:

 

I was only referring to the event you don't need to go under the coach to change tires.  When I get under the coach, I drive it up on "DIY" ramps or I would really prefer the square tube method that Michael will be providing us when he gets pictures posted.

You don’t need to support between the chassis & house frame to change tires.  As mentioned, the use of 2 jacks is most important to lift coach equally on both sides under the axle.

You might consider this.  My centroid replacement is already acting up.

https://www.holley.com/blog/post/holley_s_new_floatless_easy_level_sending_unit_is_changing_the_game/
 

All, 

what I found is the SSI & amp-l-start both failed.  I have installed the ML-ACR and will get to the switch next.

2nd problem, Leece Neville alternator has failed internally that was causing a battery charger to surge from float mode down to 70% about every 5 seconds.  This only happened when chassis master switch was turned “on”.  So I’m in the process to either rebuild my LN or I’ll get a DR 28si (I am still researching how to hook this up through the ocean of posts).

hope this might help others troubleshoot their charging system.

happy trails & happy Thanksgiving.

Tom,

the house bank is in the inverter/charger and it’s a steady float of 13.2/13.5…. It’s all good.

removed chassis batts because the amp-l-start failed and bank would die…

I removed batts and hooked up a Die-hard smart charger.  It has 2 or 10 amp option & I picked 2amp.

as I said, with batt switch off, charger gets to 100% & goes to float… measured a steady 13.1/13.3

for grins, I turned batt switch on and in 4 seconds I noticed the needle move from 100% down to 75%….. 4 seconds later it switched to 100%…. 
 

I then did parasitic test removing NEG cable & meter was .60 ma.

I’ll get ignition installed today, hook it up and see if this may have contributed.  I started here due to not all dash alert features working..

don’t worry about off talking.   I appreciate help no matter….

Charging system tech’s/experts..

2003 Dynasty - chassis batteries.

i have a separate charger attached until I finish my Bluesea ml-ACR install…

with batt switch off - charger in 2 amps gets to close and stays there as it should.

Batt switch in - system OFF, charger surges from 100% to 75% for about 5 seconds each.

i checked parasitic load and it only shows .67 ma on tester.

any ideas what to look at (NOTE: I am replacing ignition switch tomorrow) to see if that’s contributing.  Just off that battery/charger surges like that.

search didn’t provide any similarities…

Bob,

     Thanks, I'll give this a shot to start with.  

Thanks & I'll report back the finding...

Bob,

gotta ask…. What’s the pac bell?

All,

     2003 Monaco Dynasty.  I'm having a few issues to fix.  One is the with the ignition switch (I think).  When I turn the key (not to start), I don't always get the chime noise while waiting for fuel lights to go off before starting.  What else besides the key switch could cause this in the ignition system?  All dash lights are functioning and coach is starting as normal...  just no chime.  What other items would/should I look at in this troublehooting venture...

It might be related to the hydraulic slide not working.  I've noticed when I get the chime, the switch works, when the chime isn't present, I've had to tap on the slide motor & solenoid and that makes the slideout switch work.  I have not tried this with the generator slide function but likely will since we are NOT supposed to intermittently start & stop the big slide.  

Just wondering if these issues are related or tied together.  I'll be cleaning the slide motor & solenoid terminals to see if this helps anything.

Thanks for your input,

Kurt

Myrontruex,

UPDATE - set tester on “MA”, unhooked neg posts, red probe on cable, black probe on -batt post…. 00.60 was the largest reading (all were between .50-.60).  Not worth chasing load (in my opinion).

I’ve removed chassis battery +wire from amp-l-start and hooked up another charger.  Time to install the ML-ACR…

Thanks,

mhrookie