MHRookie

Thanks Ivan, I’ll send you a PM for some clarity.

Ivan K, Those look like the link that Dr4 sent me. Are these the units with 4 wires on the back and a ring terminal that a wire runs through? With yours, is all the wiring done inside the overhead using the wires from the analog dial fixture? These would be perfect! Thanks! Dr4Film, These look similar to Ivan’s picture. I found these today on Amazon and this spurred my post. Depending on Ivan’s reply, I think this is the direction I will go. Hope all working is done in the overhead with existing wires. thanks for reply!

All, 2003 Dynasty princess. I currently have the original analog dial AC power in & amp use gauges. Curious about any upgrades out there that anyone has any experience about. i know my amp use readings are not correct for either leg. It always reads low (never gets over 10). When I look at pedestal surgeguard, it shows higher amp draws (that match more closely with appliances being used & on). I think the dial gauges are adjustable by the tiny screw under the dials but curious about any digital options. thanks for any input. Kurt

I cannot tell for certain but it sure appears you will need to remove the reducer before bag removal. I don’t see a cutout in the top mount the fitting will fit thru.

Sent you a PM but one other note. I would not hesitate getting a replacement ALT from AJ’s electric under $500 last I checked.

I second looking at this if/when you need to replace existing parts. Installing the bluesea unit also allows you to change to a more affordable alternator when/if your Leece Neville fails (to a 28si alternator).

The only item I found available is a “new chip” on eBay. It says it’s installed on a RC7 remote to make it a RC7gs remote…$200.

You’ll need the manual for how to access the remote menus. Quite possible the settings need redone. I’d do as Tom says and perform a “hard restart” BUT read manual because it says when connecting battery cables, to do it in order. ALSO, label the negative cables (chassis & batt) accordingly so you don’t cross them up when reconnecting. One confusing thing, you say your “Batt Full” light is green & on steady…. The only green light on the remote is “inverter”, the others are only amber or red. The rc7 does have an equalizing option but has to be turned on manually by pressing the right arrow button for 8 seconds and same button & duration to cancel. Then charge will return to absorb for a short period and then float. Hope the hard start fixes the issue.

Steven, Word on the street is read internet articles by this guy… Mark Quasius. He’s supposed to be the Tiffin guru. The only added issue I found besides yours was a 2008 issue with the windshield popping out du to chassis flex (the article didn’t state if it was the power glide or Freightliner chassis though). Again, ask the pre ious owners about that. Other than that, it looks like a solid coach from choice. Good luck!

I did find some other info about the throttle position sensor. If it’s not returning or showing full release, it will keep the Jake brake from engaging. You might look into resetting it, not sure on the type you have.

Sorry, didn’t notice the earlier post of no foot switch. The only way I know how to test while stationary is by the high idle. Does your navigator have that feature using the cruise control buttons (make sure engine temp is above 86 deg before activating high idle). aside from that, your going to have to call Holiday Rambler to get the wiring schematics I’m afraid.

I need to verify…. Does your Jake brake system have role foot pedal? I just went through some similar issues and it ended up being the micro switch inside the pedal. To test… start coach & let run a bit then….turn on cruise, and select “set” - to enable high idle…. Let it run a min then hit the Jake pedal… it should turn high idle off. See how long the delay is (if any). if it continually turns idle off quickly, then that’s not the issue..

Happycarz, From your picture, you are using one 15 amp fused wire to feed power to both high & low relays… correct? Thank you, Kurt

NWrvsupply is another source for coils.

Richard, Didn’t know if you saw this or not. Not real definitive but it’s all I could find for manifold part numbers. Just scroll towards bottom of page to see breakouts. I only found one “manifold” page and all the coils or valve kits are the same numbers… (Forgot if I can post links to web pages… so I left off)…I googled HWH parts list and found a live page with links. then selected “air control units”. I never did see a breakdown of specific model units.

What device are you using to retrieve codes?

Here is the condition of my VIP SM209 board. I didn’t take off the plugs because there is no discoloration on them or the board. the discoloration on the back lines up with the furthest left 25amp relay. It’s not mounted as flush as the others are. Anyone with solder & motherboard experience weigh in…. Does this warrant replacement or can it be repaired? Thanks, Kurt

Tom, Just a report…. No joy, all diodes tested good. Digging in all the spaghetti was a little nerve racking but not too bad. Tomorrow I am going to send you a picture of my VIP control board and see if you think the soldering & a slight discoloration may warrant replacement or looks alright. I’ve read a lot of CIP threads and there isn’t really a silver bullet fix, but I think I may tackle requiring all the harness from the Monaco plug to the control board. Just need to figure out how to tackle larger wire but keeping the same pin size on the VIP end. thanks & if you can think of another possible troubleshoot item…shoot away. Kurt

Ivan, Yes the original isolator, batt boost solenoid, lambert all did the same thing as the ML-ACR…. Charge batteries… nothing is smart about either method other than newer technology AND change the requirement of a Leece Nevell alternator (I got a duvac 28si). I did at one point (about 80%) have the old trace out and a newer pure sine installed but I got the wrong one so had to hook everything back up. Maybe that has started my issue… no way to tell. I will be replacing the current set up this spring when I get back home. thanks for your time & thoughts. At the end of the day, nothing is getting hot or no odd smells so I am off the path of the coach burning down at this point.

Tom, I’m going to guess this print showing all the dash lights that these “diodes” would be in the dash contain off the top panel and search! Next, the harder question… do you just ohm test a diode - meter lead on each side & ignition switch on or off?

Tom & others… latest info. Shut down all power to coach & let batteries rest for a few hours. Prior to shut down RG7 remote said house at 100%, charge light blinking & batt full light on All 2 house batts measured 6.65 & 2 @ 6.68 plugged everything back in….. Back at ML-ACR - house at 14.6 / chassis @ 12.7 -then ACR latched and both banks @ 14.6 (at ACR @ on each bank by voltmeter) come inside coach - RG7 remote said absorption charge & battery SOC is 76%…. (Within an hour, it should switch to float and say 100% and banks at 13.6… I’d say my issue lies in the inverter/charger & RG7. Checked inverter in bay and it’s humming but I cannot tell if fans are blowing (don’t feel anything). Also, the on/off button doesn’t turn off the remote like it’s supposed to. any additional things I should check? thanks!

This issue has come back….. and it morphed…. New ignition installed….So…… 1) turn key on, NO pre-start lights nor alert tone from dash 2) turn key on, pre-start lights appear but NO alert tone 3) turn key on, all works as normal All 3 options can take place BUT the morph(s) are…. option 1, no smartwheel functions option 2, some smartwheel functions work (mainly the “high idle” option doesn’t work option 3, everything works normal chassis master switch and option 1… cycle master off THEN when move to on…. It makes the horn blare (turn master off only way to stop). 2 days ago, OPTION 2 event but coach started and we departed anyway… 1/2 way into trip went to turn on headlights AND they AND the Horn blared… horn off with headlight switch off. THEN, I pushed another button on wheel and Horn and wipers went off, had to pull over and mess with VIP wire harness to stop (unhooked “washer pump” wire (purple) and all stopped & wheel functions worked normal… DAY 4… turn key start & Option 1. Cycled master & horn blared. Removed all wires from VIP board, then turn on master, started coach, plugged in wires on at a time on vip (except washer pump) and everything functioned normal through trip (headlights and wipers worked normally thank goodness since I had to use them). starting the troubleshoot journey. Is there a “master” ground that splits off to all the ground bars? VIP - I’m working this….. as others have stated IMMI troubleshoot tree doesn’t jive with Monaco’s wiring but initial diagnose shows all was in spec Clock spring - is there a way to test this device? sorry it’s a long post but trying to get as much info as possible out…. thanks for any direction …

Happycarz, this post being Camelot specific, I assume these coaches also have the smartwheel functions? Does this “relay add” help to reduce the overheating of the circuit that melted wires at the VIP board?

Vito, coach+ & alt+ - hooked to one lug + wire hooked to a single fuse house+ - hooked to other lug + wire to fuse block ml-ACR neg - hooked to negative no switch installed yet. in storage - switch turned to on position & within 10 minutes, it senses inverter/charge presence & latches driving - manually turn switch off - go start coach - within 10 min, it senses alt charge and latches - alt output is 14.2 nothing is getting hot & it seems like inverter is working correctly ( except absorption rate seems high). It gets house to 100% & changes to float mode at 13.6 & I auto latch banks to charge both if I try to keep auto latched during absorption’s high rate, it makes dash radio flicker. Also, if latched during start up, it seems like to much power as dash lights & tones don’t work. If unlatched, works fine.

Bill & Ivan, Ok, I’ll agree with that. My issue then is… with only the refrigerator on inverter and hooked to alternator while driving… house bank should stay fully charged (always were before). then when stopped at night hooked up, it should NOT charge at 14.6 or higher absorption rate should it?