MHRookie

Use a little caution here. I used smartwheel’s troubleshooting on my 03 Dynasty and a wire they say should have power with key off did not. I had to turn key on. Monaco installed unit slightly different (Frank - don’t ask me how it all still works but everything does function properly - especially since IMMI provides the install instructions). I unplugged all connections on smartwheel and steering wheel and used electrical contact cleaner & small wire brush and reassembled. All good so far. I am sure a new clock spring is in a near future replacement.

Dustin is no longer with Talin. Minor adjustments sure but if it’s a major Lazy Days in Wildwood, FL was recommended.

No, the plates won’t help lift. The plates will seal the lower floors from getting water intrusion. if you need the slide adjusted, I would recommend contacting the Lazy Days in Wildwood, FL. There are Monaco experienced techs there. It’s a large shop and busy so you should call in advance. good luck!

All, I know I could call and ask but the Talin team is very busy… My service date is 8/22 - planning to stay there. Do they have full hookup there or elec & water only? I forgot to ask when I set up my appointment. Thanks, mhrookie

I’d say call Transwest and talk to their service dept. Otherwise, figure out the manufacturer of the slide equipment and Google local repair facilities. one thing for certain, finding reputable shops is getting difficult.

I wondered if this would work. Didn’t know if hammering flat would be considered “loose” and possibly arc…..but then stranded wire is all loose. second, wasn’t sure if there was a thickness element since the 2/0 wires are what’s hooked to it. thanks!!

All, little direction needed on where to purchase the copper bar/plate material used in RRB and to hook up the ACR UNIT? Thanks in advance, Kurt

Tom, Rocketman, Vito, Thanks for reply & print. The battery bank is for the chassis. The drawing shows the wire in question is for the “fuel cutoff” solenoid. Does that need constant 12v power?? If so, I can easily put it back. I assumed it was installed that way in error as a battery cuttoff should always remove power. Tom - I read in a similar post that Monaco did this on earlier coaches than changed in the 05/06 era. Hence my ask of what the wire was for thinking it could not be that detrimental of a change. No worries on taking offense to comments…. That’s the beauty of the forum… helping. Thanks guys! Kurt

All, I copied picture from a different post but this was my switch (replaced w/new). 2003 Monaco Dynasty… QUESTION - the battery positive post had another wire on post (not sure where it goes)… does anyone else? on new blue sea switch, I put it on its own post so when switch is off, nothing gets powered. Does it need to get changed back so it’s always hot?

You need to ohm test the switches (both on/off & high/low). They could be the issue.

Well this resembles the issue I had a month back. Experienced a weird power issue with inverter/charger. When performing a reset, when turning battery switch back in, VIP horn started sounding. Had to go unplug the horn wire from the VIP board. I’ve since removed the plug and cleaned the connector & pins and hooked back up. No problems so far. I still have the SM209 board.

The “negative” is supposed to be sealed over from factory. There isn’t as much forgiveness with that adjustment than with the positive adjustment. Must read centroid instructions carefully to understand.

Can you remember/share the model float sender you used? Just for those that opt for this option.

Check out “Holley easy level”. I will switch to this when my centroid fails again.

The OP is talking about removing the whole thermostat housing not just the t-stat 2 bolt cover.

Carey, As others stated, use the proper type fuel fitting wrenches if it won’t pop loose with your current open ends… better fitting support with those wrenches. I would try and start it and look at belt to make sure it’s turning water pump'.. at minimum, install new belt as outlined above and observe (cheap verification). I’ll send you a PM message.

How often do you run the generator? If it’s not exercised properly, the temp sensor can get corroded and bridge itself (not contacting any fluids). That or a thermostat is not a difficult repair but if access is limited it could be (I’ve not seen a non-slide gen install so I have no clue). My temp sensor was heavily corroded over and broke when trying to remove. It took a right angle drill and some countersink bits (the Ryobi brand from Home Depot) to get through the blockage. I removed the thermostat and fluid level in the pipe to below the sensor and inserted rags to keep drill cuttings from going down pipe system. If you can remove the thermostat and some fluid, you could use a mechanics mirror to see if the sensor is bridged over or not… again if access allows that. Just thinking of some easier steps to help verify the issue. Note the fluid level below the t-stat so you can replace it. Good luck.

Here is the Allison in vehicle check process. Hope you find the answer.

This is the solution! Google mail sent to junk mail… now to fix that! thanks

All, I’ve stopped getting the daily topic list emailed. Is the system on vacation OR did I accidentally unsubscribe? Did I miss a post about this situation? Have a great day.

Cowpoke, As Tom states, please share to benefit others & possibly me! Thanks, Kurt

Rick, I’m not 100% sure the VIP smartwheel caused this. When I turned the chassis batt disconnect back on, VIP horn & wipers turned on. Wiggling the wires stopped that thank goodness cuz the campground was a little PO’d. Until I encounter this again, not 100% sure of the cause. Thanks for comments, Kurt

I don’t have the alarm option.

UPDATE: 12v+ is present at both sets of batteries FINDING: 1. BOTH batt disconnects need to be replaced!! Power still transfers when turned off. 2. I think this had something to do with VIP system… when wiggled the wire connections, things went to normal (now getting a quote from VIP for new SM210 board). 3. The AMP L START had both house & chassis red lights on/blinking & solar panel showed 14+ volts on both banks…. Tester showed that to be false & reset inverter possibly corrected that. RG7 panel shows batt 100% & charge light is now blinking… Everything has returned to normal so I’m done for now. Kurt

2003 Monaco Dynasty. We are on shore power woke up to see inverter charging issue (not charging). Went to RRB to see amp l start not showing any batteries hooked up (house & chassis blinking red). turned off chassis battery disconnect to test some things ** when I turn batt disconnect switch back on, the horn starts blowing)**. WTH?? both solenoids in RRB have power on both sides (even when chassis batt is off). That seems wrong but that’s not causing horn to blow… any ideas on what to test next?