MHRookie

All,

     Background…

2003 Dynasty.  Lambert broke years ago.  Replaced with amp-l-start.  It’s broke now too.  Going to install Blue Sea ML-ACR….. BUT

In waiting to do this project, I notice the chassis is getting pulled down to below 12.5 in about 3 days.  I’d like to test the parasitic loads to see if something needs fixed.

shore power & inverter appear to be functioning properly as house batt bank is in float at about 13.2-ish…

my chassis battery has quite a few fuses connected here.  See these all ties to the chassis side of RV.  I haven’t tried tracing all this down in wiring books yet….

thanks for any insight/direction.

Kurt

11 hours ago, Frank McElroy said:

At the base of the steering column behind the lower black cover there is a connector that connects the steering wheel keypads to the smartwheel control box.  Be sure there is no corrosion in that connector.

The smartwheel works by each keypad sending a specific voltage on two data wires.  Any resistance on those data wires or connections would change voltages that the smartwheel controller sees when a keypad is pressed.  If voltages are off by more than about +/- 0.1 volts, you will see the problems you have.  Not only could there be resistance on the two data wires, there must be a good voltage feed and ground to the smartwheel keypads. 

Have you followed the smartwheel troubleshooting manual and actually measured the voltages on the keypad data lines to the control box?

 

Use a little caution here.  I used smartwheel’s troubleshooting on my 03 Dynasty and a wire they say should have power with key off did not.  I had to turn key on.  Monaco installed unit slightly different (Frank - don’t ask me how it all still works but everything does function properly - especially since IMMI provides the install instructions).

I unplugged all connections on smartwheel and steering wheel and used electrical contact cleaner & small wire brush and reassembled.  All good so far.  I am sure a new clock spring is in a near future replacement.

6 hours ago, Dr4Film said:

@dstanton95 Instead of ordering your guardian plates and doing the install yourself, just go to Talin RV for your Guardian Plates, then have them make the adjustments to your slide.

They are generally busy also depending on the time of year but their top-notch technician, Dustin, is one of the best for making adjustments  to slides.

Dustin is no longer with Talin.  Minor adjustments sure but if it’s a major Lazy Days in Wildwood, FL was recommended.

1 hour ago, dstanton95 said:

I’m in the process of ordering the Guardian Plates for our 03 Dynasty. Ours is Flat Floor No Rollers. My Drivers Side Front Slide doesn’t seal at the top left corner as you’re facing it. Don’t know if the plates will help but I have to try something. 

No, the plates won’t help lift. The plates will seal the lower floors from getting water intrusion.

if you need the slide adjusted, I would recommend contacting the Lazy Days in Wildwood, FL.  There are Monaco experienced techs there.  It’s a large shop and busy so you should call in advance.

good luck!

All,

     I know I could call and ask but the Talin team is very busy…

My service date is 8/22 - planning to stay there.  Do they have full hookup there or elec & water only?  I forgot to ask when I set up my appointment.

Thanks,

mhrookie

I’d say call Transwest and talk to their service dept.  Otherwise, figure out the manufacturer of the slide equipment and Google local repair facilities.

one thing for certain, finding reputable shops is getting difficult.

31 minutes ago, Cubflyer said:

soft copper tubing (3/8") hammered flat will work pretty good, use a step drill/unibit to drill the holes.

 

I wondered if this would work.  Didn’t know if hammering flat would be considered “loose” and possibly arc…..but then stranded wire is all loose.

second, wasn’t sure if there was a thickness element since the 2/0 wires are what’s hooked to it.

thanks!!

All, 

little direction needed on where to purchase the copper bar/plate material used in RRB and to hook up the ACR UNIT?

Thanks in advance,

Kurt

Tom, Rocketman, Vito,

Thanks for reply & print.  The battery bank is for the chassis.  The drawing shows the wire in question is for the “fuel cutoff” solenoid.

Does that need constant 12v power??  If so, I can easily put it back. 

I assumed it was installed that way in error as a battery cuttoff should always remove power.

Tom - I read in a similar post that Monaco did this on earlier coaches than changed in the 05/06 era.  Hence my ask of what the wire was for thinking it could not be that detrimental of a change.

No worries on taking offense to comments….  That’s the beauty of the forum… helping.

Thanks guys!

Kurt

All,

I copied picture from a different post but this was my switch (replaced w/new).

2003 Monaco Dynasty…

QUESTION - the battery positive post had another wire on post (not sure where it goes)… does anyone else?

on new blue sea switch, I put it on its own post so when switch is off, nothing gets powered.  
 

Does it need to get changed back so it’s always hot?

You need to ohm test the switches (both on/off & high/low).  They could be the issue.

Well this resembles the issue I had a month back.  Experienced a weird power issue with inverter/charger.  When performing a reset, when turning battery switch back in, VIP horn started sounding.   Had to go unplug the horn wire from the VIP board.  I’ve since removed the plug and cleaned the connector & pins and hooked back up.  No problems so far.  I still have the SM209 board.

On 6/28/2023 at 8:28 AM, Cajunboy1959 said:

On my sending unit, which is mounted on top of the diesel tank has 2 adjustments on it. See attached picture. One is full and the other is empty. Adjust the full down to where you want the full needle on the fuel gadge to read.

The “negative” is supposed to be sealed over from factory.  There isn’t as much forgiveness with that adjustment than with the positive adjustment.  Must read centroid instructions carefully to understand. 

6 minutes ago, dl_racing427 said:

I replaced my Centroid sender with a standard float sender years ago.
Much more accurate and repeatable.

Can you remember/share the model float sender you used?  Just for those that opt for this option.

Check out “Holley easy level”.  I will switch to this when my centroid fails again.

Just now, Bill R said:

@Idoc57 Just replaced a month ago the T-stat on my 8KW HDKAK.  Very simple, just remove the top bolts, and replace.  I have a slide out generator so it was a cinch.   I don't recall anything about a 3rd bolt.  Once you get up there and look it will be obvious.

The OP is talking about removing the whole thermostat housing not just the t-stat 2 bolt cover.  

Carey,

     As others stated, use the proper type fuel fitting wrenches if it won’t pop loose with your current open ends… better fitting support with those wrenches.

     I would try and start it and look at belt to make sure it’s turning water pump'.. at minimum, install new belt as outlined above and observe (cheap verification).

I’ll send you a PM message.

How often do you run the generator?   If it’s not exercised properly, the temp sensor can get corroded and bridge itself (not contacting any fluids).  That or a thermostat is not a difficult repair but if access is limited it could be (I’ve not seen a non-slide gen install so I have no clue).  
My temp sensor was heavily corroded over and broke when trying to remove.  It took a right angle drill and some countersink bits (the Ryobi brand from Home Depot) to get through the blockage.  I removed the thermostat and fluid level in the pipe to below the sensor and inserted rags to keep drill cuttings from going down pipe system.  
 

If you can remove the thermostat and some fluid, you could use a mechanics mirror to see if the sensor is bridged over or not… again if access allows that.  Just thinking of some easier steps to help verify the issue.  Note the fluid level below the t-stat so you can replace it.

Good luck.

Here is the Allison in vehicle check process.

Hope you find the answer.

On 6/5/2023 at 11:14 AM, dandick66 said:

I had problems, too.  Sometime late last year there some problems.  For the longest time I wasn’t receiving the daily digest.  I contacted Scotty and he said it was probably an Outlook / Hotmail issue.  I went into my settings and made a rule that Bill D’s Monacoers emails were to be sent directly to my inbox.  I haven’t had an issue since then.

 

 

This is the solution!  Google mail sent to junk mail… now to fix that!

thanks

All,

     I’ve stopped getting the daily topic list emailed.

Is the system on vacation OR did I accidentally unsubscribe?  Did I miss a post about this situation?
 

Have a great day.

2 hours ago, cowpoke said:

I'm not sure if what I have found out will be of any help to you or not, but here it goes, I have been in contact with Elite Renovations in Harrisburg Oregon, They confirmed my large slide on the front drivers side of my 07 Monaco Signature has absolutely NO rollers.... It actually slides plastic on wood.. What they do to correct this is to install aluminum plates that the slide will then slide on of which makes it slide extremly easier and keeps it in line. I have a appointment to have my slide repaired at Eite this june..If this is of interest to you I will report back after my repair on Oregon...  Happy Trails~~~~~

Cowpoke,

     As Tom states, please share to benefit others & possibly me!

Thanks,

Kurt

4 hours ago, waterskier_1 said:

The disconnects are a known problem. The Blue Sea Battery Switch seems to be a popular replacement.  The VIP system - are you referring to the VIP Smart Wheel?  It seems odd that this problem has anything to do with the battery switches.

Glad you got it sorted.

  -Rick N.

Rick,

     I’m not 100% sure the VIP smartwheel caused this.  When I turned the chassis batt disconnect back on, VIP horn & wipers turned on.  Wiggling the wires stopped that thank goodness cuz the campground was a little PO’d.

Until I encounter this again, not 100% sure of the cause.

Thanks for comments,

Kurt

22 minutes ago, timaz996 said:

Your horn problem may be your alarm system.

I don’t have the alarm option.

1 hour ago, waterskier_1 said:

The two solenoids in the rear run bay I think you are referring to are the DC Disconnect (i.e., Salesman's Switch) relays.  As long as you have not flipped the DC Disconnect switch located near the passenger armrest, they should be energized.  It appears that you have added the Amp-L-Start, since that year you coach would have come with the Lambert Module to charge the Chassis Batteries from shore power (the Inverter/Charger).  I'm not sure where it is wired.  

First, do you have 12 volts at the House Batteries?  The inverter will not work if you don't have over 11.5 volts.  You really need to start at the batteries, and follow the circuit to the Inverter with voltage measurements.

  -Rick N.

Colorado Springs, CO

UPDATE:

12v+  is present at both sets of batteries

FINDING:

1. BOTH batt disconnects need to be replaced!!  Power still transfers when turned off.

2. I think this had something to do with VIP system… when wiggled the wire connections, things went to normal (now getting a quote from VIP for new SM210 board).

3. The AMP L START had both house & chassis red lights on/blinking & solar panel showed 14+ volts on both banks…. Tester showed that to be false & reset inverter possibly corrected that.  RG7 panel shows batt 100% & charge light is now blinking…

Everything has returned to normal so I’m done for now.

Kurt