Steven P

Ok. It's been a couple of days so time will tell more, but so far so good.  The PO had cut a hole in the side of the wardrobe for speakers.  Currently my sensor is coming out of that hole, but is behind the art I placed to cover the hole and no more short cycling.  It runs as I feel it should. I did have to lower the tstat to 72 to keep it how I like it.   I'm gonna leave it here a while and see how it goes.  Outside Temps have reached 90 w high humidity, but I haven't been in the coach much in the day (working).  

Typically I keep it is set to 74 or 73.  But after moving it, I had to drop to 72 for more comfort.  The morning sun is hitting the wall not far from the sensor and there is a 5 deg difference bw that wall and where the sensor is.  

10 minutes ago, Dr4Film said:

If the remote sensor is in a very hot environment (80's F) and the temperature you had selected on the thermostat for that zone is 72 F I would think the compressor would run continuously since the sensor never reaches the set temperature.

Is my logic incorrect?

I think what is happening is a cycle of events.  The hole the sensors wire comes through allows heat to escape right on the sensor thus turning on the AC.  AC kicks on,  cools air, fan blows heat away from the sensor thus satisfying the sensor and shutting off the AC, then heat is escaping onto the sensor thus repeating itself.  When it kept kicking on every 2 to 4 minutes last night while the front ac stayed off, that got me looking more into the sensor.  I had the Wally literally over that hole/sensor.  When I moved the Wally to the back of the cabinet, that hole stayed a lot lower than 80. However, there are no vents for heat to escape that cabinet.  It's not hot in it except right at the Wally.  I may add some holes at the top of the door to allow heat out (later).

I'm thinking @Ivylog is onto something.   Last night I took my infrared thermometer and pointed it at the front remote sensor and got 72 degrees.  Went to rear and got 80 degrees.  Started checking Temps around the BR and found it was consistently high there at the sensor. So I opened the cabinet behind the TV and realized I had my Dish Wally sitting right where that sensor exits (that cabinet has a false floor and the wire is under the floor).   I moved the Wally to the back of the cabinet and pulled the sensor out some and had a better night.  Today I removed the false floor and relocated (temporarily) the sensor to see how things go.   So far it's better, but it's early.  That makes a lot of sense to me.  The temp reading right under the Wally was 85 degrees.  I'm going to keep playing with different areas to find a good spot not affected by vents, windows, electronics, etc...  I'll keep yall posted. 

Well, maybe I spoke too soon.  While it was better this am before work,  now that I've been back it has run 2 cycles that lasted about 3 sec each and several cycles that lasted approx 2 min and keeps cutting on after only 2 to 4 minutes of rest in between.  Back to the drawing board.  

Hey Richard,  I am attaching a pic.  The sensor is under the TV and next to the speaker bar.  This was happening way before the speaker was installed. I have no vents blowing on it. 

Just a quick update.  Last night I pulled the 2 remote sensors (why are there 2? What do both do?) Further out of the cabinet and noted more short cycling.  So, when I went to bed I pushed them further in and noted no short cycling.  It's too early to tell if this will be the solution or not, but there's hope.  See pic.  @Scotty Hutto

It did clean up nicely. I repainted it with  bedliner spray paint. 

The PO of my coach had AGMs put in when I bought it 3 years ago and I've been very pleased.  I really like not having to watch the water.  I know it's easy to watch, but with my work and just life in general I find it's one less thing for me to have to worry about.  

I've wondered about the wire for the remote sensor, but mine is not in a slide, so no movement there.  I removed the plastic cover this am before work and pulled and spread the 2 wires apart to see if that makes a difference.  I've already heard it short cycle once since coming back from work.  I'll find my electronics cleaner and get on the roof and clean up contacts when I have a little free time.  

@trailmug @jacwjames

I was wrong about the generator.  It did short cycle this AM on genny.  I edited the original post earlier w an update at the beginning since that should change things up.  I've always wondered about the thermostat sensor being a culprit.  No vents blow directly on it.  I've thought about putting a heat gun near it when it's doing it bad to see what happens.   I like the idea of switching the intellitec around and seeing if the front does it. 

We are remodeling our house for the next couple of months so I'll be trying the above suggestions and keep everyone updated.  I did mess w the thermostat remote sensor some, but put it back like it was. 

Update:  it is still short cycling on generator.  I didn't catch it happening yesterday, but this AM it has been doing it again.  I'm leaving the original post below.  Thank you all. 

Hey all, for a couple of years I've had an issue w my rear Dometic Duotherm AC.   Symptoms:  mainly I notice this in the mornings, but I think it happens more than that. The compressor will start and sometimes it may run 3 seconds up to 30 seconds and kick off.  Other times it'll do just fine. I discovered this weekend that it does NOT do this on generator. It only does it on 50A and it happens no matter where I'm plugged into.  I have replaced both the hard start and the run capacitors with no change. This past week I put in a Soft Start and while it does start up softer, it will still kick off like before.  I have also killed all power to the coach for minutes and reset the thermostat all with no change.  @Scotty Hutto and I feel this may be related to the Intellitec system.  I do not see any lights showing shedding when this happens and the fan will still run, only the compressor stops.  Has anyone been through this? Found a solution?  It will keep the bedroom cool so its not a huge deal, but it wakes me in the AMs and is a nagging issue to me. 

I would look at how everything is wired.  It sounds as if your inverter is hardwired straight to your batteries or a post between the switch and batteries.   I have a boat with a bilge pump like that.  If the bilge gets enough water to raise the float it kicks on no matter what the battery switch is set to.  

My house batteries leave the batteries and go straight to a switch before going any further.  I can turn mine off for a couple of months without draining batteries.  

I brought my old fridge out and new in through the front door.   Removed passenger seat and unhinged the door for more clearance.  

You'll need to take some measurements first. Scotty and I have 06 Dips and they raised the ceiling that year so we may have more vertical clearance than you do.  Best to figure out how much space you're working with and go from there.   AJ Madison website has a search feature w dimensions and lots of brands to select from.  

Dennis,

As a veterinarian,  I'd suggest you talk to your vet about Sileo or trazodone for the storm phobias.  They don't go away and tend to get worse.  Look at the Thunder Shirts also. 

It is 68" long.  I ordered it from Bradd and Hall.  

Hey Connie, we left the other couch (J lounge) and matched it. 

Barry,

This is what I found so I used AGM2 and would think you MAY be the same?

20 hours ago, Dennis H said:

Steve, could you tell me what brand and model monitor you used for replacement. Mine is part of the radio with the flip up screen which is a POS, Thanks....Dennis

I went through rvcams.com and got a Weldex monitor.  It wasn't the same size, so it's attached to the dash w command strips which I like bc it allows me to take it off for access. 

7 hours ago, Lolo1034 said:

Steven, fan comes on and just blows warm air.  I’m going to check the compressor and see if that might be it.  I have other options to check now thanks to you all

Lolo

By warm, is it hot air after a while like the heat is on?  Assuming yours is a heat pump like mine,  it could be your reversing solenoid which is an easy fix.  My understanding is that they run as heat by design and the reversing solenoid has to switch them to AC.  This happened to me. You can test it with a strong magnet to try to make it reverse.  When mine did that, I didn't test it.  I just replaced it and it worked again. 

13 hours ago, Lolo1034 said:

Hi all, 

I have a 2006 Monaco Cayman.  The rear a/c is the original unit and it is not cooling.  I took it all apart, cleaning coils and straightening all the fins.  Does anyone know if this type of unit and be fixed? Or should whole unit be replaced.

Thank you!

Lolo

 

What is it doing exactly?  I've had to replace my hard start capacitor a couple of times and that worked.  Is the compressor kicking on and running?  Could be refrigerant, but there are other possibilities too.  

Could you post some pics of the final product w gauges on please?

My paint codes are on a sticker on the driver's seat post and also in the 1/2 bath cabinet (of I remember right..I know there are 2 places)