Jim McGarvie

This forum has proven to be a tremendous resource for my project. I am ready to begin the install, and have a couple more questions: 1. I've decided to wire my four 200W panels in series. The easy way, using the least wire, would be to go from one panel to the next, finally to the combiner box. But if I do that, it seems it wouldn't be easy to check individual panel voltage in case of an issue. I would have to try to reach the connectors under the panel(s). Alternatively, I could run both wires from each panel all the way to the combiner box, but that would take almost twice the wire. Is it common to need to check individual panel voltage? 2. I bought a battery disconnect switch to put between the panels and the charge controller. Is there any reason to add a second switch between the controller and the batteries (in my case, the inverter/charger)? Thanks For any suggestions. Jim

I know nothing of CoachNet nor FMCA's offering, but we have been satisfied members of AAA for over 50 years. Our "Plus RV" plan allows us 4 100-mile tows per year and costs us $212/yr (with one associate member). It paid off a year ago when we had to have our coach "towed" (carried on a flatbed truck) 97 miles to get the transmission repaired.

Interesting thought, Robert. I have been leaning toward going down through the rear cap, but hadn't considered the route you chose. I will look closely at that. Thanks.

Thanks Paul, I'll check that out. I wondered about the motor mounts but didn't know how to determine if they were worn. Are they difficult to replace?

Perfect! Thanks Ivan!

Thanks, Ivan. I think I would feel more comfortable if I did something similar. Any details on where I can find the fan and controller?

You will all be delighted, I'm sure, to hear I have yet another question about my install: I plan to install the charge controller--an Epever Tracer 60A--in the rear curbside compartment along with the inverter/charger. That compartment is adjacent to the battery compartment. The inverter/charger compartment is not ventilated, except maybe for a little leakage around the door seal. As long as I install the controller with the specified clearance around it (6" in this case) do I need to worry about heat? Have any of you provided any extra ventilation in your controller compartment? Thanks.

Oooh, good tip! I changed mine not long ago; maybe I screwed it up. I'll check it. Thanks!

Ours is nice and quiet too when we are inside. Seems somewhat noisy outside though....

Good to hear, Ron, thanks. I think we will ignore it. See you soon! Jim

Thanks for the data point, Richard. Noise level is pretty subjective; it could just be our imagination. We are about to start our solar installation, so hopefully we won't be running the gennie as much in the future.

We have about 1,260 hours on our Onan (Cummins) 7.5 kW "Quiet Diesel" generator, and we think it has become noisier than it used to be. Is it likely with this amount of use the muffler is shot? Has anyone replaced the muffler on their Onan? Thanks.

No apologies necessary, Jason. This thread is still pretty active! Here is the link to the panels I bought from Home Depot: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Grape-Solar-200-Watt-Off-Grid-Solar-Panel-Expansion-Kit-GS-200-EXP/314393965?cm_mmc=ecc-_-THD_SHIP_CONFIRMATION_STS-_-V1_M1_CA-_-Product_URL&ecc_ord=WM15907545. I expect to pick them up today.

You told me at Quartzsite about the solar panels from Home Depot, but I forgot about it. Thanks for mentioning it again. I just ordered four Grape 200W panels for pick up at our local store, and saved a bunch of money.

Yep! Thanks Dennis.

I would like to quote a fairly lengthy post, but want to insert my comments between paragraphs/sections. Is that possible here? Thanks. Jim

I will probably never see the full 800 watts. For one thing, I live in North America, and I will not have tilting panels. I "assumed" the controller would handle excess power from the panels much as it treats excess voltage over and above charging voltage. But you know what they say about assumptions. And yes, I understand Voc. Thanks so much for the continuing education! Jim

Good advice in general I think, Bob. I've admired your installation in the past. I looked up your controller and it appears to be rated at only 800 watts input, versus the 1225W of the Epever Tracer I'm considering. But the specs on yours say: "*Input power can exceed Nominal Operating Power. Controller will limit and provide its rated continuous maximum output current into batteries." And I don't see that statement on the Epever. Maybe that's why yours costs twice what the Epever does. I wonder whether all MPPT controllers have that over-panel capability Thanks Walter. Makes sense to me. I will go for a 60A controller. Jim

OK, I think I understand. Thanks Ivan.

Thanks for the reply, Ivan, but I'm a bit confused. I was planning a series/parallel install. Two sets of two panels in series, sets connected in parallel. The panels I am looking at have a Voc of 24V and Isc of 10A. So each pair of panels in series would be 48V and 10A. The two pair paralleled would be 48V and 20A. Right? What am I missing?

Thanks to help here, I now have the disconnect switch and most other hardware, and I think I have decided on the Hightec 200W panels from Continuous Resources. But now I'm confused about controllers. I’m planning on four 200W panels, and want to leave provision to add a couple more if necessary. I think I want to wire them in series/parallel, to double the voltage and the amperage. That would give me about 48V and 20A. If I end up adding two more I would put them in series and then parallel to the first two pair, which would give me 48V and 30A. I understand you can’t exceed the max rated input voltage, so I started looking at 40A controllers, which should be plenty of margin. But I just discovered they specify no more than 520W input from the solar array for 12V batteries. I don’t understand the reason for that and have yet to find the answer googling. Looks like I would have to go to a 60A controller (bigger, heavier, more expensive) to handle 800 or 1200 watts of panels (the 60A unit is supposed to be good for 1225W at 12V). I’ll certainly spring for the 60A if necessary, but seems like overkill. Is that input wattage limitation really a thing? Thanks for the help! Jim

Thanks for the details, Walter. Jim

Thanks Bob.