Jim McGarvie

Hi Chuck, I'm curious about Bill's recommendation. We have both the Hughes Autoformer and the Progressive portable EMS. I installed the Hughes first, after a brown-out in an RV park cost us a TV. But I think the capabilities of the EMS are more important.

I've been using mouse milk for years on the Pacbrake. I use it because we use it on turbocharger wastegates for airplanes, and those get pretty warm too. But I'm a big fan of Tri-Flow so might switch to that.

Thanks Richard. I have decided to try the Zero G. The light weight and ease of handling are very appealing. Jim

Those look great! Thanks Dick.

Thanks Scotty.

I have a couple of Camco water hoses (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004ME11FS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ) that were highly rated, but I think they are terrible. Contrary to claims, they kink easily and are difficult to coil up, even when warm. Can anyone recommend something else for me to try? Thanks! Jim

I find this discussion quite interesting, and I am curious how much of it applies to our little 5-speed Allison 1000 with the 5.9L ISB engine. I have experimented a bit with the Econ mode, but couldn't detect a significant difference so I don't use it. On uphill grades I tend to downshift manually when I decelerate to about 1900 RPM, which jumps the RPM up to around 2500. The engine seems happier.

Most of the time we hear about good camping areas from friends. We have often camped in our local national forests, and because of our proximity we usually scout out suitable sites in our Jeep before making the trip in the motorhome.

Thanks, JD. I will check out your tips.

My wife and I have been RVing for about 45 years, and about 90% of the time have been boondocking. But that has always been camping in the desert or the forest with a group. We are about to take a trip in Arizona during which we will want to stop overnight and are considering boondocking, probably west or south of the Phoenix area off of the I-10. I am interested in experience and suggestions. We would consider rest areas, Walmarts, or just out in the middle of the desert somewhere. Thanks.

I replaced ours with an aluminum from Source, and dittos the kudos to them. I also checked Talin (Chris Throgmartin), but theirs was too large. The takeaway is be sure to carefully measure your space and make sure you check measurements of a replacement before buying.

My Rear View Safety camera is on whenever the key is. I like it that way.

About three years ago I replaced our old camera with this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002GM5GKO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I was able to reuse the original cable with this: RVS splice kit: https://www.rearviewsafety.com/splice-kit.html. It wasn't a bad job once I figured out the old wire color coding.

We have one of those. I believe Lyght and Esco are one and the same.

Out of curiosity, Bill, how old was the tire that blew?

I changed our little 8 cu.ft. Norcold for a 10 cu.ft. Magic Chef a little over a year ago. Not the greatest brand, perhaps, but it fit and has been working fine. What a difference!

That's fabulous! Thanks so much, Frank!

Incredible project(s), post and pictures, John. Quite a family too! Congratulations.

What brought this up? Was there some question about that? Monaco made Knights for several years. We bought one in 2001, although it turned out to be a model year 2002. We still have it; it has been great.

Should have been visible in my signature block. It is a 2002. I can just barely hear the pump run from the driver's seat with the bed and engine cover up; it is easy to hear from the bedroom. To prime the system after a filter change I have to turn the key to tap the starter, then the pump will run for 20-30 seconds and stop. Then I need to turn the key off for about 10 seconds before another attempt. It typically takes several attempts before I can start the engine.

Our Knight has an ISB 5.9 260 hp. It has an electric lift pump mounted on the passenger side, low rear of the engine. I have no way of telling whether it continues to run when the engine is running. But I do know that when I use it to prime the fuel system after changing the fuel filters it only runs for less than 30 seconds. Typically I have to repeat that cycle several times before the engine will start.

Follow up from the OP: 1. I replaced the floor outlet below the thermostat with a metal one, and bent the louvers to all point away from the thermostat. No change in performance. 2. I replaced the control board with a Dinosaur. No change. 3. I replaced the LP regulator. No change. 4. I bought a manometer and checked the LP pressure with the new regulator. Ours is 12" with furnace and water heater operating. Should be plenty; our local RV shop owner says that is not too high. 5. Ordered a "tune-up kit" from PDX RV, which includes Burner Assembly, Electrode, Electrode Gasket, Limit Switch 190°, and Sail Switch. 6. In preparation for replacing the above parts, I removed the furnace from the coach. 7. After removing the furnace I discovered the installation was only using 3, 4" duct openings. According to the service manual for our model, it requires a minimum of 4, 4" ducts. I believe inadequate ducting may be the reason for our short cycling. 8. I plan to add a fourth 4" duct. The only feasible way of doing that is to simply route it to the side of the cabinet containing the furnace, below the sink, and to an outlet behind the couch. I will give another update when the project is complete. In the meantime, any and all comments are welcome. Jim

Thanks for that info. I have a "tune-up kit" coming which includes the limit switch as well as a burner assembly, ignitor/flame sensor and sail switch.

Wow! Thanks for the information, Harvey. What would cause the burner to "blow out?" You mean by wind? This occurs all the time, not just when it is windy. I wish we could remember whether this has always been the case. If so, maybe we have inadequate ducting. If not, perhaps something is blocking a duct or ducts. It would be great if I could get it to operate as you describe.

This discussion raises the question, what is normal cycling? We have an Atwood 8535-IV-DCLP furnace, 19 years old. Our burner is normally on for 60% of the time the blower is running. Should it be greater than that? I was concerned we were wasting battery power (we most often dry camp) with the blower running but no burner, until I checked the air temperature at one of our ducts. When the burner is running it is approx. 160 degrees, but when the burner shuts off and the blower keeps running it only drops to about 140, so I guess we aren't losing too much. If 60% burner-on time is about normal I won't worry about blockages; if it isn't I will start looking. We have another issue which may or may not be related. Intermittently (yeah, I know) the furnace will shut down prior to reaching the thermostat setting temperature. It will run normally for three or so burner on/off cycles, then after an off cycle the burner comes on with a "wumph" sound like it is trying to light but doesn't stay lit. After the cool-down cycle the blower shuts down. I can repeat the cycle by turning the thermostat off and waiting a couple of minutes, then turning it back on. If I don't manually recycle it, the furnace will reset itself after an hour or so and try again. I am guessing this issue might be caused by the flame sensor. Any thoughts would be very welcome!