Jim McGarvie

A new question: What are folks using for disconnect switches for their solar panels? Just like our battery disconnect switches? Thanks. Jim

I forgot to get back to you earlier, Bob, but you were right. It is a little difficult to find and get to, but it is there and doable. Thanks. Jim

Nobody has any tips on lubrication of this unit? Thanks. Jim

Thanks for the input, Tim. Unfortunately I don't have the acreage on our motorhome roof for panels that wide. And I definitely will elevate the panels above the roof. Jim Thanks for that link, Jason. That is the best deal I have seen so far for U.S.-made panels. Jim

That worked. Thanks.

Can either of you send the link to this seller's eBay site? I have searched for high-tech solar and for 200+25% watt and nothing comes up. Thanks.

Thanks Ivan.

Thanks largely to what I have learned on this forum, I am getting better educated on the subject of DIY solar installation. I have planned my installation for the most part, but am still undecided on a provider/source. I was originally leaning toward Renogy flexible panels but have pretty much decided against flexible panels, and now having second thoughts about Renogy as a company. Any suggestions? Thanks. Jim

Holy crap! We'll probably never find out what happened, but it might be beneficial if we did. Tire blowout? Wind?

Wow, Bob, thanks for taking the time to write such detailed, informative replies! I've had to read each of your two messages two or three times to try to absorb most of it. I'll try to organize my responses below: Regarding routing of the wires from the panels to the controller, I'm pretty sure the rear cap is my best bet. It leads almost directly to the rear curbside basement compartment where the controller will be located. And as a side benefit, if the connection on the roof leaks it won't hurt anything. And yes, I will use an ampacity chart to determine the proper wire gauge. Thank you for the information regarding serial versus parallel. I was concerned about the shading issue, but unaware of the diodes. I certainly see the advantage of serial wiring with regard to wire size. Now all I need to do is find panels with the diodes. Speaking of choosing panels, I am still torn between traditional glass panels and the new flexible panels. My son has installed Renogy flexible panels on three RVs, and is quite happy with them so far. Granted, they have not been in service very long. I'm aware of the bad reputation flexible panels have had, but maybe the newer ones are OK? Renogy has a 25-year performance warranty on theirs, which I think is comparable to traditional, rigid panels. Sorry to hear about your awning; hope that works out. Jim

I suggest starting with the Amazon link I sent.

That is called a three-light to two-light converter, and no, you can't do without one if your motorhome has separate stop lights and turn signals, and your toad does not. Here is an example: https://www.amazon.com/CURT-58240-Non-Powered-Converter-Compatible/dp/B001EP0GI6

I know this will come as a shock, but I found a contradiction in the owner's manual for our 2002 Knight. I was doing an annual lube job, and the lubrication chart shows a grease fitting on the steering gear box. I looked and felt around as best I could, but could not find one on our Sheppard steering gear box. Pursuing the manual further, I found this statement in the Steering Gear paragraph of the Chassis Information chapter: "The M-100 series Sheppard steering gear requires no maintenance." I also found and downloaded the Sheppard steering gear manual, and could find no mention of lubrication. I can only conclude it is lubricated by the power steering fluid, although I have to wonder about the apparent gear oil drain and fill plugs (see photo). Any thoughts?

Looks like a good resource, Walter. Thanks.

Thanks, Tom. I haven't yet figured out the series/parallel thing, so haven't figured how many amps I'll be dealing with. At first blush I assumed series would be better, to minimize wire size, but then learned that apparently panels in series are more impacted by shadows. And thanks too for the tip on the welding wire. Jim Thanks, Peter, I will check it out. Jim

Thanks, Bill, I think that's good advice. I think #4 is about what I'll want. And thanks for the link, that's a good resource.

Can anyone point me to a good website to learn the basics? I have been through most of the AM Solar site (https://amsolar.com/diy-rv-solar-instructions/) and it is very helpful, but I still have questions. Some of you may be able to answer one vehicle-specific question I have about routing the cables from the panels to the controller. I plan to install the controller in the rearmost curbside compartment where the inverter is, and immediately behind the battery compartment. The refrigerator is in a slide so using that vent is not an option. I seem to remember reading accounts of running cables (both solar and rear view camera) down through the rear cap, and that sounds appealing to me, but now I can't find those articles. I have looked up from the engine compartment and from below the chassis, and it appears there is a bulkhead the entire width of the rear cap. It isn't clear to me where would be a good place to go through that bulkhead. Thanks for any help and advice. Jim

Thanks, Tom, I do.

Thanks for the further clarification, Tom. I think the failure has always been on extension. But couldn't that be dirty or corroded contacts on that side of the switch?

Hi Tom, I REALLY appreciate all the time and effort you put into your thoughtful reply. You included some great info, but unfortunately your main premise is incorrect. The existing switch IS a Sigma; I read the make and model number directly off the switch. Your troubleshooting suggestion is a good one, but because the problem is intermittent it might not be conclusive. Thanks again for your reply. Jim

Thanks, Rich, but no, my switch is just like the one Jerry sent the link to: SPDT Mom-On/Off/Mom-On. And yes, it returns to off when released from either direction.

Those are spot on, Jerry. If I can't get the original switch from Sigma I will buy all three, plus the base and face plate. Thanks! Thanks, Rich, but that is too big.

Thanks, Guy, but I already checked that. The 1C-26-U is shown as ON/ON. What I need is mom-on/off/mom-on. Their 1F-93 appears to be that. I can't see how to order on their website, so I will give them a call. Thanks, Jerry. The ones you linked to wouldn't work, but I will check out that product line.

Thanks, Jerry, I should have thought of that. I've attached a couple of pics. The switch is about 1/2" by 1". 2020-07-02 07.36.24.heic 2020-07-01 09.08.05.heic Thanks Richard. I already looked at that, but can't find white ones. If worse comes to worst I will replace with black.

Our bedroom slide is intermittent, and I suspect the wall switch. It is a Sigma LR-20985, a white SPDT rocker switch, and I can't find it anywhere online. I also checked the Parts List here to no avail. Any ideas? Thanks! Jim