Jim McGarvie

Thanks, Roy. That could be the issue. I don't think we have used the furnace in such low temperatures in the past. Jim I guess that makes sense, but it is sure a good way to run the batteries down overnight when boondocking.... Thanks Bob.

Thanks Peter. I'm glad to know the blower is not supposed to run when the burner is off. I will see if I can have my control board tested.

Thanks Bob. I've experienced that situation once before, and the battery voltage was a little low this time too; right around 12.0V. After a day of solar charging yesterday the furnace worked fine all night, and is still working this morning, with 12.23V. But if battery voltage is the cause, it would be nice if it would continue to work at a little lower SOC. And I REALLY don't think the blower should continue to run if the burner fails to ignite. Jim

I knew something was wrong with our Atwood 8535 furnace when I woke up cold at 3 am and realized the blower was running continuously but I never heard the burner light. We are boondocking in the forest and it got down to 31 outside last night, and 40 inside. We are now running the generator and a small cube heater, but it is a slow process. I'm vaguely aware of some of the possible issues, many of which I don't think I can fix away from home. Anything come to mind that is relatively simple to correct? We have a full LP tank and the water heater works fine. No outlets are blocked. As an aside, it's nice these things have the sail switch to prevent the possibly dangerous situation of burner burning but blower not blowing. But why isn't there something to prevent the blower from running down the batteries when the burner won't light? Thanks. Jim

Hi Chris, Amy sent me a diagram showing the dimensions of your tank, and they indicate it is 1-3/8" wider than the dimensions shown on your website. Unfortunately it is too wide to fit our space so I had to cancel my order and am looking for other alternatives. Jim

Wilco. Thanks Chris. Thanks, Paul, but I don't see them on their Products page. I have ordered one from Talin.

Thanks, Chris, I just placed the order on the website. Should I still call Amy?

Thanks Chris. And are they in stock?

Hi Chris. I patched my original plastic (nylon?) tank a few months ago and it held for a while but is leaking again. Are your tanks currently available? If so, do they come in different configurations for different Monaco models? It isn't clear from your website. Thanks. Jim

I put a label under each breaker which will hopefully prevent me from accidentally turning the wrong switch on or off first, but you've got me concerned about the possibility of the output CB tripping on its own. I like your innovative solution to that.

Hi Ivan, thanks for the note. Yes, the Tracer is installed and working. It ended up coming with the MT50 remote display, but thanks for the offer. It does have two ports, but the instructions say only one can be used at a time except for chaining controllers. I currently have an ethernet cable plugged into one, and I plug the other end into either the MT50 or a WiFi adapter to use with the phone app, depending upon the situation. Sorry to hear your Tracer was fried. That is a bit concerning. I am using a Bussman 70A breaker between the controller and the battery, but maybe I should consider a different breaker and/or larger amperage. Please let us know how you like the Victron. Jim

I have been watching this topic with interest. Cleaning the engine compartment is something I have wanted to do for quite a while, but frankly I was concerned with protecting the bedroom in the process. Does everyone just drape everything with tarps and/or painter's drop cloths?

Thanks for the info, Frank. Yes, I did check the fluid level, and the brakes are operating normally.

Our coach doesn't give us any choice: When we start the hydraulic leveling jacks down the air is automatically dumped.

Thanks Frank. I do have the electric pump back-up system, and it is easy to hear it operate when depressing the brake pedal with the engine off and ignition on. But our back-up pump is not running when the engine is running. That is not what I hear. What I hear is a high-pitch squeal coming from the vicinity of the master brake cylinder. It is probably some kind of an internal leak of the hydraulic boost, which is pressurized by the power steering pump.

Update on my post: I am embarrassed to admit after owning the coach since it came off the assembly line that we do NOT have air-over-hydraulic brakes. I don't know why I always thought we did. We have straight hydraulic brakes boosted by pressure from the power steering pump, and backed up by an electric pump mounted on the master cylinder. So obviously the squeal we hear is not an air leak. With this new information, anyone have any ideas? Thanks! Jim

Our Knight has developed a high-pitch squeal from the vicinity of the master brake cylinder when depressing the brake pedal with the engine running. We have an air-over-hydraulic system, and the mechanic at the local Big O thinks it is an air leak in the booster. I think he is right. Any other ideas? Where should I look for a replacement, or is it something that can be fixed (new seal or something)? Thanks. Jim

Good point, Walter. I agree. Jim

My 2002 Knight has a Littelfuse JLLN 250 250A, 300VAC fuse between the inverter/charger and batteries, and it occurs to me it might be good to have a spare. So far the one I've found is on Amazon for $91 (https://www.amazon.com/Littelfuse-300VAC-125VDC-Class-Acting/dp/B00JV3GTIO/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=Littelfuse+JLLN+250A+300vac&qid=1601387634&s=industrial&sr=1-1)! Is that what they really cost? It still might be good to have a spare; it could save a trip. Or might it be better to replace it with a circuit breaker? Thanks. Jim 2020-09-28 11.02.44.heic

Thanks for all the help, Walter. I ended up ordering the 70A version of the Bussman. I ended up ordering a 70A Bussman, Ivan. I will let you know how much voltage drop I find. I would hope it would be insignificant.

Thanks Walter, I agree. I would be more comfortable with a Buss. Do you think 90A is a bit high for my 4 ga. wire?

Thanks Rick. My controller is 60 Amps, and they don't show anything between 60 and 200. I'm afraid a 60 Amp breaker would throw nuisance trips. I'll see if I can find something a little higher. OK, I'm with you. I've got a 60A controller and using 4 ga. wire between it and the inverter. I found this page and think a 70A or 80A breaker should do. https://www.amazon.com/amp-Circuit-Breaker-12V-Motorhome/dp/B07SHRCSTJ?th=1. Thanks Walter.

What size? Something like this? https://www.amazon.com/amp-Circuit-Breaker-12V-Motorhome/dp/B07QMJBDSB?th=1

Does the big fuse between the inverter/charger and batteries serve the purpose or do I need something between the controller and the inverter/charger in addition?

Mine have the pigtails too. My controller output will be connected to the inverter/charger terminals, and there is a fuse between there and the batteries. Does that serve the purpose or do I need something between the controller and the inverter/charger?