amphi_sc

Thanks. I just tried it ... holding the bottom of the toggle switch for 15 seconds (timed via the neighboring Aladdin clock screen) and then pushed the top of the toggle to start. It flashed for about 2 seconds as before and then the starter engaged ... and fired off on the third revolution ... with no stuttering or smoke as would normally happen on a cold morning after being cold sosked overnight in the 30's. On another morning I may try holding the bottom of the toggle for a little longer to see if it will start on the first or second revolution as Autostart seems to do. I like starting quicker without all the smoke and rough running for 15 to 20 seconds as it would previously do ... I guess clearing all the extra diesel from the longer cranking cycle. It reminds me of old M$ Windows having to press the Start button to shutdown. 😉

How do you do that? When I press the toggle it indicates something (fuel pump priming???) for about 2 seconds before the starter engages. What's the trick for 15 secs of glow plugs?

I've noticed that when I use the dash or bedroom toggle button to start my 10kw Onan that it cranks 5 to 7 times before catching whereas it seems to immediately catch with the Autostart on the first crank revolution. I.e. I never notice it starting to crank over, it just seems to immediately catch and run. Why is that? Is the Autostart circuitry doing something different than the dash or bedroom start/stop toggle switch? ... fuel priming? less voltage drop to starter?

I'd try a couple simple things first. Easiest is completely removing power from the unit for a couple minutes either by unplugging it or the breaker. Probably won't help but a power reset & reboot can sometimes help. Next I would unplug the cable from the control unit to the latch and clean any possible corrosion from the connections on both ends ... sometimes a simple reseat of connections can cure communication issues. Then I'd go deeper into testing the lock and/or replace it.

Try https://www.accuridecorp.com/products/aluminum-wheels and put in the filters you need and check the load carry rating. I don't know it you have a 15000 front axle but many of the common numbers are a 7300 or 7400 lb max. The 40008 has a 8100 rating for a little bit of "max load weight cushion". I don't know what appearance style yours came with but the "D" oval 40020 7650 lb wheel my Beaver built by Monaco is not made anymore.

On this particular vehicle the brake pedal goes to the floor the first time it is pushed even with the key off. The next immediate push will get resistance on the pedal. Then after a while the pedal goes to the floor again. However the parking brake handle appears to always engage the rear brake shoes. It appears that engaging the brakes on some systems would be a problem even if the wheels are disconnected from spinning the transmission.

I'm curious as to how these "pedal pushers" work with regenerative brakes where the actual vehicle brake pads don't always get "activated" by a pedal push as input to the system via link to the physical pedal or via the vacuum booster. As example in my Chrysler SUV ( which I don't flat tow ) when you first turn the key on the first press on the brake pedal goes all the way to the floor by design ... something about calibration of the electronics in the SUV brake modules. Would these type of brakes need some vehicle modifications to insert something else into the hydraulic lines closer to the wheels to effectively dumb down the standard regenerative brake system for towing? Or something which in effect only pulls on the emergency/parking brake mechanical cable on the rear wheels? Curious mind wondering what is out there for these type of vehicle braking systems.

For years I traveled all across the country coast to coast with the old Verizon LTE router. It had the capability for 3 Ethernet cables and two phone lines. I have not traveled with this one yet but some members in one of my chapters have. I think they have only been moving around Texas and Oklahoma so far.

Hello Bob, I'm 2/3 of the way thru the current billing cycle and used 56.74 GB of data so far on that line ... and the above screenshots showing 212.8 Mbps down was current test today. I conclude what ever throttling is happening isn't affecting me much. YMMV

BTW, I think we get reasonable Internet service from Verizon wireless. Only $25/month and no data cap. Attached screenshot is through the Verizon wireless access point/router. It does 5g versus my oldish phone which is only LTE. The slower report is my phone without going through the Verizon access point and just using its own cell access from the same physical location. Big difference in speed with phone versus the dedicated access point/router, but a phone should be a phone versus a specifically designed access point. However both tests originated from the same physical device sitting in the same location.

We threw cable out 9 years ago and went with Dish & Travl'r. Simply move Hopper & Joey to either the house or coach as needed. Have a dual USB tuner for the Hopper to integrate in OTA channels into the Dish guide. For screen casting we have a Google TV plug in adapter ( as our TVs are dumb but adapter makes them smart ... and we are Android users not 🍎), and basically "lifetime" Hulu and Disney+ that we might use couple times a year but as it is no incremental cost we still have it available. The Dish Hopper gives us Sirius/XM throughout the house & outside systems. The Dish Hopper fits our needs best. YMMV - One simple solution where ever we are living at the time. Many will say to dump Dish and stream, but for us, we dump streaming and go with Dish.

Update: I got them loose with a 6 foot extension onto a 3/4 breaker bar. 1200 ft-lb impact air wrench could not break them loose. Re-torqued to 475 when reinstalled and breaker bar can loosen them without the extension.

IIRC, Screwed onto the frame of the roof top unit & wired to the roof top unit control board. All part of the secret communications protocol ...

The problem with driving the RV to a tire shop is I DO NOT TRUST that old defective wheel to not catastrophically fail enroute. It might make it but if it splits the rest of the way ... Ka-boom ... and that's not something I want to experience on a steer axle. After sleeping on the problem overnight I tend to lean away from exceeding the 600 ft-lb design of my torque wrench as it could hurt the ball-cam-ratchet. It's probably time for a new & bigger impact wrench, and save my torque wrench for the sole purpose of tightening to 450-500 ft-lbs which it is fully capable of.

Question about slipping a pipe extension over my 600 ft-lb one piece ratcheting torque wrench. My warranty replacement wheel has arrived from Accuride ( reference topic https://www.monacoers.org/topic/7518-aluminum-wheel-defect/#comments ). I was going to take the old wheel off and throw it into the back of my SUV to get a tire shop to swap the rubber onto the replacement wheel, but evidently my last tire shop just tightened the lugs using their 1 inch air impact wrench. With my 4 foot 3/4" torque wrench cranked up to the 600 ft-lb max I can hear it "click'", but the lugs won't begin to budge. I don't have a separate 3/4" breaker bar so what is the consequences on my torque wrench of exceeding the 600 ft-lb "click" on my torque wrench to loosen these lugs? I don't want to hurt or uncalibrate my torque wrench in the process. It was about all I could muster to get it to click at the 600 lb setting so I'd probably have to slip a pipe over the wrench to get even more leverage. (Hopefully when I do get the wheel off the lugs aren't stretched or damaged by the previous tire shop evidently not using a proper torque setting when the wheel was installed. Am I incorrect in recalling from memory the torque is supposed to be 450-500 ft-lb?). Or is it time to invest in a new 1000 ft-lb impact wrench to loosen these nuts? (I don't know what my existing air impact can develop, but it just hammered away and didn't budge the nuts at all either. I've had good use of that air impact for over 35 years on stubborn bolts/nuts but maybe it's time for a new one? And yes, it was set to back the nuts off.) I would hope the last tire shop didn't go extremely crazy with their 1" impact.

In my case it was the Micro-Air or change the board in the new Penguin II as the Dometic 10 button was too wide for the wall space where the 5 button was installed. It has some nice features but one thing that took a lot to get used to was figuring out what temperature to set up to get the desired temperature outcome. For some reason I need to set it about 3 degrees higher. i.e. If want the A/C to cool the room to 78° I set the Micro-Air to 81°. If I want to heat the room to 72° I have to set it to 75°. Now that I've learned that and verified my "chilly" feelings were correct by cross verification of actual temperatures with several different independent thermometers I'm much happier. Perhaps my Micro-Air is a fluke in the settings, but I can live with it now. Typically I use the "Away" mode to set the "window range"of heat or cool temps so it automatically cools or heats. Many times we're in that in-between climate where it's chilly in the morning and like a little heat but need A/C in the afternoon. When I used the single temp setting for Heat vs A/C I would often find it fighting the bedroom thermostat ... i.e. the bedroom 2 zones trying to cool the place while the front Micro-Air was trying to heat the place up, or vica versa. As far as a Bluetooth ... I find it easier to walk by the thermostat rather than find my phone and start up an app.

The interesting part is while too much current was discussed, the actual case indicated too little current was a factor in that the introduced noise was more significant in proportion. Having converted to LEDs, the current for each set of light strings is in the 1 to 2 amp range if I trust what the Aladdin is showing me when running totally off batteries, thus the Magnum isn't supplying any 12v so the Aladdin should be showing the correct battery draw. When I had three light strings on, the Aladdin showed a 4 amp delta draw. So with the one string on and likely a marginal LED puck connection someplace the introduced noise wasn't drowned out until I turned on multiple strings to get the current draw up past a couple of amps. With all LEDs the module load for lights is way way way below even 25 amps, well below the 60 amps mentioned as a limit. The good news is it is still working normally today, and I didn't have to give 3k to a certain candy store to try to figure it out. All it cost me was time and frustration. And I got a system backup and learned the "all lights on" function whereas I always thought it just changed the key pad backlighting option.

Ah, broke in a different location. My suggested conduit fix won't help.

As you used some proprietary Apple format I can't view your pictures but will assume yours broke as mine did a couple years ago right about in the middle of one side. I just went to the hardware store and bought a 10 foot stick of conduit, removed the rungs, cut the other, slid the conduit inside joining the broken parts together on both sides, drilled holes into the conduit to rebolt the steps. It's a little heavier now but works fine.

BTW, it looks to me like the pressure switch is too low in the air line and could collect moisture. I think I would raise it above the pump outlet and position it so water could not settle into it. i.e. let gravity drain any condensed vapor away from the pressure switch. While you are replacing stuff I'd probably replace that pressure switch while you're redoing the plumbing....could just run a short airline up from the T and zip tie the pressure switch in a higher location. I also can't tell if you have a check valve in the airline. You don't want any between the small air tank and the pressure switch as any leak in the line/fittings would cause that line to drop and short cycle the pump while the tank could very likely have air. You would want the check valve between the pressure switch and the pump. (Somehow my coach had it in the wrong location and when a T developed a slight bubble leak the pump would cycle on for 2 or 3 revolutions every 5 minutes as it quickly rebuilt air pressure in the short air line.) FWIW, JMHO

I know in my case the factory had the check valve in the wrong location for the "auto fill" function. It was possible for the pump to be running when the Aladdin system decided to. open the fill solenoid valve, and with the check valve in the wrong place the pump would suck water out of the tank only to back feed to the fill side and thus return into the tank never building up enough pressure to turn the pump off. Relocating the check valve between the pump output & fill solenoid input fixed that situation.

FWIW: We were traveling with some friends and one grassy site sloped up a fair amount at the front and up toward the door too. When they leveled the back of the coach raised fairly high (but wheels still on the ground) and the passenger front was so low the double step couldn't swing all the way down and out, so we had to dig the grass & dirt down almost 2 inches to allow the steps to come out and lock in place ... just barely clearing the ground. So make sure your new double step can swing down and all the way out whenever you park. BTW, our step is a double "Coach Step" that slides out on glides vs swinging down from a hinge point. So sometimes it'll wedge itself into grassy dirt. Not too often, but very dependant on the slope of the site. And sometimes on sloping sites I have to check to make sure the coach hasn't (or won't) settled down onto the step maintaining auto level mode. At least the controller senses the high current and cuts off the power no matter where it runs into something vs some other physical limit switch design. Also comes in handy when accidentally parking too close to a curb. And if I'm street parking for a few days I make sure the steps aren't over the curb/sidewalk in case the coach "auto" settles a bit.

I'll admit I had a boo-boo 2 years ago hitting a piece of concrete turning right at the same constant angle as the concrete in the blind spot of the passenger door pillar ... enough to not hurt that tire, but bent the edge of that rim just enough to warrant replacement for peace of mind. Drove with that old tire on a new white steel wheel for 1800 miles until I had time to catch up to a new polished aluminum wheel, and then while I was at it (and I could find the tires in stock ... remember this was a couple years ago when supplies were having problems), mount new steers on the new Accuride and other original wheel. I now carry that emergency steel wheel & mounted old tire as a "just in case" spare on a home made 'receiver attached swing down carrier' similar to the Roadmaster design, but clears my bumper and allows straight thru hitching of my toad (I posted pictures of that homemade carrier on another post many months ago). The D-hole wheel pattern is not made by Accuride anymore so they recommended this replacement wheel as the equivalent, but with a round hand hole. (I couldn't find a used Monaco D-hole polished front wheel anyplace.) I put it on the driver's side so I wouldn't have to be reminded of my boo-boo every time I came in the door. I got the concrete just "right" for the wheel, but it missed the steps and coach body so the only casualty was the original factory wheel. I had about a 5 hour delay waiting on roadside assistance to find a wheel that could work, and they inspected the tire & mounted it as it never went flat, and I was on my way again. End of long but "lucky" story...

There's an adapter piece that screws into the 1 1/2" threaded inlet that the normal sized sewer hose slips over and is clamped onto, and that adapter usually also has the little grey water bypass tube.

What is the new part number? I can't read it from your box picture.