amphi_sc

The wheel has been superceded with a new number, but the warranty dept says the new design was just slightly enlarged hand holes for lightening.

No, they said to discard the bad wheel. No need to ship it back to them.

Mostly good news. Accuride is shipping a new wheel under warranty. Bad news is getting a tire shop to swap it at my cost. And the wheel won't ship out for 10 days so looking at Thanksgiving week to get somebody to do the work. Would this unmount/mount be covered under my FMCA roadside plan?

FWIW: My Beaver came with a 240V dryer from the Oregon factory. The actual amp load when running is a balanced 7-8 amp load on the two hot legs. (So I can run 3 A/C's and the dryer at the same time - no problem on shore or 10k gen.) It has a separate sub panel at the dryer for the 30 amp 240v DRYER breaker. Power from my transfer switch comes into my first main electric panel (over the driver's seat) via a 50 amp breaker. The main lugs of that panel then take that power via 10/3 w/ground to the rear of the coach and the dryer sub panel. (As an aside, the main panel powers the A/C's, Aqua hot, block heat, ... and 2 individual 30 amp breakers to the Magnum dual in dual out inverter which then feeds back up the another sub panel by the driver's seat for the fridge and all the sockets.) So one option could be tap into the shore power cord coming into the transfer switch as that is likely easier to gain access and run the wires through the basement ceiling. And put a sub panel by the dryer. In effect about the same as my coach EXCEPT it would not be running through the 50amp breaker of my main panel but you would still have the 50amp breaker of the pedestal for load protection of the shore power cable. As in my case, the 240 dryer won't run on a standard 30-50 dog bone nor his 8k Genny. But with careful/creative use of an appropriately sized center tap transformer and electrical knowledge beyond basic flipping on a light switch, I can run my 240V dryer from a standard 30 amp campground pedestal. Remember you can't create electricity from nothing ... understand induced current and how the windings on an iron core work. It's more than just stepping voltage up from 120 to 240. Anyway, while the dryer load is way less than the 30 amp 240 breaker, that is what the circuit was factory sized for. Check the specs on your potential dryer to see actual loads. Pics of the factory sub panel and current load when my dryer is running. Current drops off significantly when the thermostat cuts out the heating element. Just food for thought.

I don't believe that would have been standard practice at Les Schwab. But I wasn't allowed in the shop ( insurance regulations I was told ) when they mounted this tire and the corresponding passenger side steer.

Hello Frank, Yes, I am the original owner of that wheel. 2 years in service, rounding to approximately 30,000 miles on that tire, both tire and wheel were new when installed at that wheel position by Les Schwab in 2021. No flats or under/over inflation or anything of note on that tire since installation in 2021. I use a TPMS. Caught it when washing the coach today. GLAD I saw it before driving any further!! Monday I'll see if I can get anybody's attention at Accuride. Supposedly the "finish" has a 60 month warranty, but don't know about any metal fatigue warranty. Anybody know the best contact at Accuride? Otherwise I'll try the standard 800-869-2275 number.

It's an Accuride (Accu-Shield) ACC/42644XPC. 22.5 x 8.25 for 295/80 22.5 tires. Special ordered 10/20/21

Why is this wheel splitting? If I ran into a pot hole or curb I would think it would bend and have a flat spot from an impact. But why is the bead edge splitting away? Two places: 2 & 4 o'clock Obviously I need to order a new wheel.

Final update as it's been over month since unplugging and replugging all the light bulbs. That seems to have cured the problem of the light circuits turning off by themselves. The lights had resumed to working normally when I made it by Paul's on the way by and he graciously backed up my CPU "just in case" of a future catastrophe. Such gracious and knowledgeable hosts, and a great tour of all he has going on at his place.

5 months ago I picked up a kit from eBay for $25.49 plus tax from a marine store. Looks like the price has gone up substantially now, but I believe this and the similar listings are the same parts: https://www.ebay.com/itm/264225299069 BTW, the motor bearings are typical roller blade bearings. I replaced those 5 years ago. I take mine apart and clean / inspect at least once a year, sometimes twice a year. Simple preventative maintenance.

If the moderators think this post is "beating a dead horse" go ahead and delete it. My experience: I have 3 Heat pump units originally controlled as front 1 zone 5 button, middle and rear controlled from bedroom 5 button as zones 1 & 2 on that original thermostat. Front original Penguin compressor lockup during COVID supply chain crisis. No physical room on the wall for the new 10 button thermostat so ordered new penguin II heat pump and "dumb down" conversion board. Months later supply opened up and the unit shipped. (I then noticed more stock was on hand so ordered 2 more new Penguin IIs for when the others die...). Installed the "dumbed down" board taping up the unused wire rather than cutting it. Worked well A/C, heat, and Aqua hot) with caveat of noisy fan as old style thermostat only knows two of the 3 fan speeds. Months later middle heat pump dies but in the intervening time I picked up a Micro Air thermostat at a FMCA convention. In talking to the reps there I decide to get the model for the NEW Penguin IIs rather than the MA model compatible with the 5 button. The MA is only slightly wider than the 5 button so it could somewhat fit on the wall between the cabinet door and bathroom door where the original front 5 button was. Still have to watch opening the bathroom door as it will contact the thermostat at the extreme open open position. So moved Dumb Down board to new unit installing in the middle & easily restored the new Penguin II board into Front unit as wire was taped and not clipped. That was easier than moving the physical unit. So now middle and rear controlled by old style 5 btn and front new style Penguin II and new style MA thermostat. When the final rear unit dies I'll put the new style board back into the middle unit and use a new style thermostat for those two units. (And be able to sell/donate/trash the dumb down board.) Wall space is not an issue in the bedroom. All easily done with the help of a long extension ladder to slide boxed new unit to the roof using the ladder as an inclined plane & and a couple of neighbors on the roof to follow my positioning instructions as they lowered it into the duct work. Boards are easy to swap but must use the "dumb down" board with a heat pump as the reversing valve comes into play and the default positioning is backwards between the old and new style units. If just an A/C unit with no reversing valve then that is a different story on compatibility. Moderator EDIT. The following from the original text has been enhanced as it states the solution and summarizes the issues.... My understanding from the OP post is he purchased the MA thermostat compatible with the 5 button old style units and not the version compatible with the new Penguin IIs. So I would conclude he needs the "dumb down" board to work with other old style unit and old style MA thermostat. When the other unit dies he'll have to choose between another dumb down board or upgrading (factory re-flash???) the thermostat to take advantage of the three fan speeds of the new style units (and to work with the redesigned reversing valve logic).

Prompted by several threads on Cummins engines ( such as "2005 Sig - ECM Failure - Need Monaco parameters") I'm wondering what I need to ask my CAT service center to backup my ECM "just in case". What software do they need to read the CAT ECM including the "custom features" beyond basic "get the engine running again" and do I need/want an electronic results file or paper copy? My 2007 Beaver shares a lot with the similar Monacos.

In my homemade carrier case I flat tow so no hitch weight other than the tire weight itself. In the rare time I hook on a flatbed trailer I remove the carrier & extender and carry the tire strapped on the trailer. I do use the hitch tighters to minimize receiver play.

I'm happy with the 100-03S in my coach. Good heat retention with the volume of antifreeze it holds - rarely turn on the diesel side. It has a single electric heating element. I prefer the 03S over a 400 or 450. When on the road overnighting without hookups I still have a good shower in the morning without turning on the diesel burner (unless of course IF I use it for overnight bedroom heat then the burner is turned on when no electricity). Been in Low teens and diesel plus elec kept us comfortable.

From 411 we cut over 136 by Talking Rock and continued onward to visit Paul overnight...and then onward toward Ocala Florida to visit my sister and other friends. We'll put close to 20k on the coach this year wandering around North America...be over in Calif for Christmas and then Rio Grande valley for some of the winter. (My tires never age out before they wear out.)

And that's why I carry a mounted spare, 6 foot breaker bar/torque wrench, and 20 ton jack. Traveling through the Yukon is worse than Alaska ... 200+ miles to the next cell tower and even with a satellite phone / Skylink WiFi call can be a very long wait for a service truck who still may not have a tire in stock. Just this past year I had to run on a spare over 600 miles to get to a place to buy a tire. I got lucky in that they had the size and brand on hand, and the date code year was within the last 2 years. YMMV

We just came down from Sevierville via 441 west to 411 thru Marysville, Benton etc. Stayed off I-40 and I-75 until south of Atlanta. Pleasant drive missing Knoxville and Chattanooga traffic enjoying the countryside. 45' with toad.

Got back about a month ago from our third trip to Alaska. I prefer Whitehorse to Dawson City - ferry across the Yukon River to Chicken then Tok, that way I only experience that awful Destruction Bay to Tok section only once on the way south. But some people are afraid of the Top of the World highway. I think that gravel road is in better shape than the Alcan between Destruction Bay & Tok, however Chicken to Tok has some pretty good frost heaves & cracks outside of Chicken. At Whitehorse visit the Lumel studio and blow some glass ornaments. Side trip to Skagway or hit Haines & Skagway from the other side. At Homer I've used Inlet Charters for both Halibut fishing and bear viewing flights. Several options on bear viewing... seaplane or wheeled, the Falls or beach... etc Boat cruise: Columbia or Meares ... I prefer Meares where you can watch it calve into the water. While going down the Kenai peninsula take a side trip through the Whittier tunnel. Several options and places to catch a helicopter ride to a glacier...and a sled dog ride on the ice. Side trip to Stewart/ Hyder and my favorite glacier ... the Salmon glacier While at Denali book a Canyon Run rafting trip with Denali Raft Adventures Your time will just fly by. PS, hang a sign at Watson Lake sign post forest.

I looked at the Roadmaster tire carrier and saw it would not clear on my coach, so I welded up my own. Slip an extension handle into the top, pull the spring loaded locking pin and it pivots to either side for access to the engine bay. The U clamps take the wiggle play out of the receiver joints. I still need to relocate and light my license plate. Pull a couple of hitch pins and it will separate for easy removal.

Just speculation here... What about placing a new 40350 or equivalent upstream from the existing 40250, internally jumping shore input on the 40250 contactor directly to the 40250 output bypassing the internal contactor. Wouldn't the existing logic board in the 40250 be able to display the now always "shore" input on the Aladdin as before? When the new upstream ATS switched to generator the old 40250 would still show it as "shore" but you could read the amps/volts on the Aladdin. Effectively the old 40250 provides the Aladdin interface but NO protection at all as the contractor would be by-passed. Just speculation. BTW my 40250 always reads the voltage on leg 2 as 2-3 volts higher than reality and Southside could not find a way to recalibrate the actual logic board my unit had (which was a different layout/design/revision level from what they thought it should have had.)

General update: Having tried resetting the cpu, killing all power to the CPU closet, toggle salesman switch, disconnected batteries, loosening and retightening all hot wires to the modules, all lugs on the circuit breakers on the closet power bus, unplugging and replugging all edge connectors on the boards in the cpu closet, loosening and retightening all the ground screws I could manage to loosen (some were so tight I couldn't budge them), unplugging keypads ( and where a circuit had multiple keypads to control that set, unplugging the other keypad leaving one keypad to turn that set on ... and then trying the keypads unplugged or replugged it n.tjr alternate test). I then decided to unplug and replug every G4 light. For a couple of days I thought that solved it until last night when I turned on another LR ceiling set while DW headed into the BR and turned the normal ones on there. It was just s random act of us doing our own thing at the moment but that caused the lights to go out in a sequence. I think by board module but don't recall it having timing like a master ON sequence. (Remember I haven't found the right holding of the master off switch to turn them off in a sequence ... master off turns them all off at once, as well as changing the keypad backlighting, whereas all on does turn them on in a sequence.) However today the lights have been behaving properly. So in some ways it is a step forward in that they aren't going off as much, but a step backward in that I can no longer repeat the problem at will When I took all the ceiling light discs out (actually dimmable LED discs that replaced all the old halogens 5,6, or 7 years ago ... I haven't looked through my old credit card statements to find exactly when I bought them) we also cleaned the glass lenses so very likely the LED discs might have been reinstalled in a different ceiling location. However other than the closet + driver/passenger overhead lights, the other circuits have been used the last few days without the definitive repeatable {and frustrating) self turn off problem other than ONCE last night. So maybe the problem is related to a dusty G4 pin connection in the ceiling socket?? Or maybe one of the LED discs that is likely in a different socket now? But then again I experienced the self turn off last night but not tonight ( and didn't find a magic sequence to repeat it now whereas earlier before I unplugged all the LED discs it was very predictable and repeatable). Anyway I'm going to keep monitoring it. I'm also considering running a new 14 ga ground wire from the closet bus bar through the floor to the bus bar on the upper driver's side engine bay, and from there to another new clear frame connection. Also there are 5 old style seldom used filament bulbs I haven't removed the shades to twist those bayonet bases, and I haven't yet taken the bathroom ceiling fixtures off the ceiling to replug the 4 LED strips that replaced the old florescent tubes (but there is no old ballast up there in the ceiling ). I think the problem has to be related to introduced noise from some place. I'll update again in a few days. And if not solved in a couple of weeks will head to Atlanta. Thanks guys.

I owe an update on this. Whereas I''ve only used holding the master off to enable/disable the backlighting of the keypads it will turn All the lights on in what appears to be all lights on one board then all lights on the next board and finally all lights on the third board. However all lights off appear to be simultaneously all off ... i.e. not board by board.

What's the labelling for the circuit breakers? Every other breaker position will be on leg 1 and the other alternating ones on leg 2. So you put your box back together...black wire on the upper terminal of the double 50 amp breaker, black/red on the other terminal. Thus the single breaker position immediately below the black/red wire that has the 2 20 amp breakers on that one single breaker position will be on the leg powered by the black leg. The next lower breaker (hard to read? A 30 amp single??) will be powered by the black/red leg. The bottom 20 amp single powered by the black leg. Now read the labels on the breakers and verify those circuits are indeed powered. It is possible both your AC's are unbalanced on the same leg, but easy enough to verify by the position of those breakers in the panel. Do you follow what I'm saying to verify the loads are indeed being powered by which leg by checking the labels vs position in the box? It could just be a monitoring display "problem". Easy enough to verify the other breakers are indeed powered with volt meter set to appropriate AC range and "red" probe on breaker output terminal and black probe on the box common bus that has all the white neutral wires connected. Do you have a sub panel or are your microwave and outlets powered by and protected by breakers on the inverter? And thus not labeled in the main box?

Looking at his picture I wonder what the Black w/white stripe wire on the bottom lug is feeding? The top lug has no wire attached so that bus lug is not passing power to anything. Is that Black w/white stripe wire feeding a sub breaker box for a 120v washer - dryer combination? Or to a single in inverter? (I.e. where does your inverter/ charger get its power?) On my coach, power likewise comes in thru the double breaker to power the bus bars which in turn powers the other breakers AND the top & bottom lugs which feed 240v to my 240v dryer sub panel which has the breakers feeding the dryer. The inverter/charger has two breakers feeding it power from box via 10 ga wire. And my inverter then powers another adjacent sub panel for the sockets, fridge, TV, microwave, etc... I'm not getting a clear understanding of your particular electrical setup What's the underlying problem you are trying to solve? Is it that your Aladdin display shows a leg as off? When in fact all circuits work fine? Is your transfer switch feeding the Aladdin display? If so it could be one of the monitor wires in the transfer switch is disconnected from the output side of the transfer switch thus the Aladdin doesn't see power on that one leg even though power is indeed on that leg.

It would be worth a try. You busy around the week of Oct 9th? We're headed South East to Pigeon Forge however presently in South Dakota taking our time... Atlanta is close enough after TN. Thanks, Al