amphi_sc

On my system holding master off disables or enables the full time backlighting of the key pads. I've had the back lighting disabled and still problems. It is enabled at the moment so I can find the pads at night. Sequence doesn't seem to be predictable as first thought and it happens on three boards. Watch the video with one light circuit each on boards B D and G. These are dimmable boards. Also note that non light functions such as water pump, aqua hot electric or diesel work, aqua hot radiator blower fans (even the three speed kitchen one) 100% with no problems. Slide in/out and window awnings are fine as is generator start / stop. For now I turn on three lights circuits on board B (main ceiling, main living room overhead (over couches and table), and the ceiling rope for a few minutes and then I can go down to just the main ceiling and they stay on. If I only turn on the main ceiling it goes off. Many times main ceiling on plus bathroom ceiling causes bathroom to go off (as seen in the video). I've replugged most light keypads. Interesting in that if I turn main ceiling on and unplug that keypad the ceiling will go off after a while anyway so I think that would eliminate "noise" from that keypad sending a random "off" command. Same with the bathroom ceiling when main living room ceiling is on. The bedroom ceiling lights seldom have a problem but will once in a while turn off. Same with hall lights. Hall lights are on two keypads and I've replugged those also. The main 10 button has the living room - galley - hall lights. I suspected that pad at first but as mentioned earlier lights still turn off with that pad unplugged. The main ceiling ights also can be turned on with a Carling switch in the stairway dash but turning them on there will also experience the self turn off phenomena. I am passing east through Ohio soon but M &.M has no openings to look at it, and even if they did Chris was saying it could run $3,000 plus parts to diagnose. For that price I may put up with turning on multiple light circuits to keep the one I really want on. Downside is that puts an extra load on my batteries when we boondock (as we have been for the last week). Boondocking, generator, or shore power still experiences the self turn off problem. I might try putting a few (one or two would increase current draw) halogen high intensity bulbs back in the ceiling instead of the dimmable LEDs and see what that does. These LEDs had worked fine for previous years. It is strange that when multiple light strings on the same board are turned on they stay on. Single light strings don't unless multiple were on for a while and then downed to the single circuit. So many variables it's hard to keep my notes straight for a pattern. Thanks for brainstorming.

This Lifeline distributor is close to me so I've picked up batteries directly from them, but they do ship nationwide too. https://centexbatteries.com/

VID_20230907_080945_converted.mp4 I'm still having this problem of lights turning off by themselves, on multiple boards as shown in this video. You can see the LED on board B come on when living room overhead turned on but goes almost immediately off. Turning it back on and it stays on until the end of the video when it turns off by itself again. You can also watch other LEDs go off by themselves after those corresponding lights are turned on. However when I turn a lot of them on at once I can get them to stay on. Anymore ideas to try?

My preference is DOT approved compression hardware. FWIW, YMMV

I have the drawer glide sliding Coachstep version and have use 86-95 Taurus / Sable passenger side window motor from AutoZone or O'Reilly. #742-277 lifetime warranty. Doorman #83694 had a 1 year warranty.

I have a friend with Carefree awning that extends fine but will only retract about 6 or 8 inches from anywhere it is stopped. I.e. extend it a foot, it'll come back a little with the retract button before the motor turns off. Extend it all the way, the retract button rolls it up just a little before the motor stops. So I think it isn't a limit switch set for the wrong closed position as it will start to retract from any extended position, just only a few inches and not all the way. We're able to wind it up manually. It doesn't appear to have any unusual friction drag.

Just to be clear, I re-wired and added the Intellitec AESS https://intellitec.com/automatic-energy-selector-switch/ and a double pole switch to be able to load share the AquaHot/ Front A/C

When we have hookups, we are on 30a quite a bit, so I automatically load share the front A/C heat pump with the AquaHot using the same type of Intellitec device as the washer & rear A/C heat pump use to share the circuit. Thus when the front A/C heat pump starts drawing current the AquaHot is disconnected. When the front A/C heat pump cycles off the AquaHot is automatically reconnected after a few seconds delay. When back on 50a or generator I throw the switch the other way and they are wired independently again as per the factory.

As we are talking differences, I'll mention that with my 100-03s I seldom turn on the diesel ... typically only when boondocking for two or more days. The 03s has enough boiler antifreeze that an overnight stop still has enough residual heat from the previous day's engine loop for a couple normal showers the next am. I also can get away with electric only room heating when the temps are upper 40's or above. Many times I lose track of time and forget to turn the diesel on for a cycle once a month just to exercise the unit.

If it used to display on a dash monitor I bet someone "dusted" that monitor and inadvertently switched that monitor's input to a different source. Happens to me when cleaning the dust off my dash gauges & etc. My Kenwood flip up monitor has a touch screen and can get into a funky state when wiped "just right".

On my 07 Patriot Thunder built 9/06, I remove the door over the drivers seat that encloses the electrical panels. Then I can pop off the crown molding over the front cabinets and access the overhead space in the front cap. That is where my drop down TV lift controller is, window awning relay boxes, ignition controlled 120 electric outlet for the TV & TV lift, bat wing ant cables, HDMI, RGB + Audio cables, etc all run over to door side then thru the cabinet over the door to the A/V cabinet over the passenger seat. If I don't remove the cabinet door over the driver's seat I have no clearance to remove the front crown molding. It is held in place with cabinet door/drawer spring catches that you carefully disengage like opening a drawer or door pull. The cables feed from the wide open front cap space through the access hole in the center front of the lift box. I ran extra Ethernet cables and antenna wire for my cell phone boosters in the same area. If you ever blow a fuse on a Girard window awning, remember to look up there. FWIW

Just following up with the response I got from Southwire ( who took over the 40250 line ) about my internal board that doesn't match the layout nor connectors. i.e. there is no J8 to jumper to recalibrate. My follow up query: 'Have you found anything out about how to calibrate the board I have as it is not laid out per your provided schematic?" Southwire response: "I am sorry I have not. The first one I sent was not even in our database I had to drag it out of one of my engineers. I have reported that issue you have, and no one has spoken up with an alternative. I know as soon as you upgrade then your Aladdin system will not work. There is one solution and that is Silverleaf has a drop in that will upgrade your Aladdin system to their system. Their system is compatible with our 40350 and 40450 units." So I wonder where the internal board in my 40250 came from?

I dropped a different style glass lense in my Beaver and shattered into a gazillion pieces, but found MHSRV in Alvarado Tx had some exact old stock. Call their parts dept and maybe get lucky? MHSRV.com

Paul, This is probably one of my next steps in trying to isolate the problem. I am a little hesitant as for the next few weeks we are moving daily or have a full schedule on non moving days. There appears to be three identical modules B, D, and F. At the moment the functions on the other boards are working as designed and the way the modules are neatly & compactly packed into the wiring closet, it looks like a fair amount of work/time to remove 3 or 4 modules to be able to swap the suspect module and making careful notes on fuses to swap too. At the moment I don't feel I can risk the time especially since something else maybe introduced. The other modules control things like heat & bedroom lights & generator etc ... at least the way they are labeled. While I was able to break loose all the power connections and re-tightened (they were really tight to begin with ) there were two screws on the cabinet's ground bus bar I could not break ... to tight ... square head driver fits well but would probably have to put a ratchet or impact driver on those two ground screws to break them free to "clean the grounds". In the upper left of the engine bay is another ground bus bar but unable to break any of those screws loose to "clean" the grounds. I may try a simple simple new temporary ground wire from the cabinet to the house battery ground. Turning on more load to increase current draw may give a hint as to a bad ground that overcomes some resistance someplace with the higher load. But I am a little time constrained at the moment and I can temporarily live with "too many lights on" to "keep the lights on" in the front areas. The house battery cut off appears to kill all power to the closet. Removing solar was just part of the steps of insuring battery connections were cleaned even though they visually looked clean.

Hi Bruce. Many years ago I switched all the Halogens out for all LEDs. Florescent tubes in the bath gone too replaced with LED strips. So my overall current load is much less...better for boondocking too. BTW, if I turn on 4 light circuits in the front (ceiling, PS overhead, Living room overhead, and galley) then they stay on. If I just turn on the ceiling or living room (or both of them) they will go out. And they will go out in the relative time order they were turned on. i.e if 2 light circuits turned on 5 seconds apart they will turn off 5 seconds apart. For some reason, the 4 light circuits will make the lights on module B stay on. So in my case, the more LED current load the better.

Are you replacing an A/C only unit or a heat pump? The reversing valve on the heat pumps changed default states while a straight A/C unit has no reversing valve to deal with. Only electrify compressor & fan motors via relays. FWIW, YMMV

I'm starting to think it is this module (B) that is flakey. No number I can easily read as the factory put a nice large "B" stuck over important manufacturing labeling. This module controls the lights we use most of the time. At the moment it appears that if I turn on light circuits on 4 of that module outputs they will stay on. And when I leave them on "long enough" (haven't figured out that magic time yet) then I can turn down to one light circuit. When the lights have been off for a while, and I try just one or two of the light circuits they turn off after some varying xx seconds. Maybe something on the board heats up and then allows the output to stay on. Cold solder joint? Since they will stay on if "warmed up long enough", I don't think it is an offboard power supply problem. At the moment, the BR lights on another module are NOT acting up. Being on the road moving every 2-3 days for the next 4 months could be tough to catch up to a new board. I think a call to M & M is probably needed for a new module. Is 419-965-2662 the correct or outdated number?

No Florescent lights any more, no Halogens. All switched to LEDs several years ago, guessing maybe 2015 or possibly 2016. In any case, been all LED for several years with no more Florescent ballasts in the coach. No electrical work performed since last known "no lights problem" in Feb, other than new chassis batteries. When disconnected from shore, Carbon pile load test on the house batteries show drop to 12.2 under the immediate load then bounce back to 12.6. All four Lifeline 4DL's tested individually and consistent between the 4 Lifelines. With 12v power off, I have loosened and re-tightened all circuit breakers feeding power to all intellitec modules in the closet, and the power connection on the module itself. Boy, those nuts were tight! Also unplugged and re-plugged each boards edge connector and also the inline harness connectors at the top of the wiring closet. Living room lights still automagically turn themselves off.

Here's pictures of the closet showing the CPU, the closet wiring connectors to the harness, main 12v bus relays (has 13.2v there now as I'm plugged into shore using A/C. When I unplug from shore it'll drop to 12.6. Seems normal operation there), and the layout of the modules. Living room & gallery for sure are on "B". Pulled and reset those fuses. Replugged the edge connectors on "B". I do have a very old can of Radio Shack TV tuner cleaner/ lubricant but have not tried that on any connections. BTW, I have unplugged from shore, turned off both chassis and house disconnects, disconnected both sets of house connections from batteries to coach (I have four 4DL 12v Lifetime bats in two banks behind two separate doors and trays, so hot & ground from each tray feeds the house.). Solar disconnected too. Let the coach sit for over an hour and reconnected everything but shore power. Lights turned off automatically again. Plugged. back into shore ... needed some A/C. No change in lights. LR turned off by itself. Sat for a while pondering. However water pump and AquaHot electric stays lit. Re-entered coach and turn every single light on. They ALL stayed on while I ate. Turned all OFF except LR, and LR stayed on for a good half hour! Turned LR off for a couple minutes, used BR lights for a couple minutes while getting into the safe, turned those off and went back to front turning the LR on and it automatically turned itself off within 10 seconds! Aaaaarrrrgggg!

Hello Frank, No, the whole system does not shut down. For example, I turn on the living room ceiling lights up front, walk to the galley and turn on those overheads, walk to the bathroom and turn on those, walk back to the front and turn on the hall lights. Wait a bit more and then the living room ceiling turns off, little bit later the Galley, ... finally the hall lights turn off. I can change my timing such that after the Living room turns off and while the galley is still on, I turn on the Hall lights then the LR back on. Galley shut down then hall again and then Living room in sequence. SOMETIMES they will stay on for many minutes to hours. Sometimes I can quickly turn all the lights on in the coach and they'll stay on and after a few minutes I'll turn off the unneeded lights and the rest may or may not stay on.

This has become a recent head scratcher for me. House is multiplex with the wiring, cpu, and most multiplex boxes behind a door panel in the rear closet. (There are some more boxes behind the drop down TV and trim in the front cap.) Chassis is non multiplex. Very recently when I turn on any light circuit anywhere in the coach (living room or galley or bathroom or bedroom) it may stay on for 5 to 30 or maybe 60 seconds and then go off all by itself (lights go off as well as the switch indicator light). It may stay in this unconventional state of lights going off for quite a few cycles. But sometimes the lights will stay on like they should. I can't predict a pattern of how it gets into or out of this unexpected behavior. Things I have tried: * Cycling the salesman relays several times * Unplugged from shore power * Cycling the house main battery cut off (BTW, that kills the lights, water pump, etc but does NOT take the Magnum inverter off line as residential fridge & microwave stay up) * Removed & cleaned all house battery connections (which looked fine to begin with anyway) * Cleaned the Big Boy internals * Pulled and reset the many many 12v fuses in the rear closet multiplex distribution center * Held the multiplex "master off" switch to change the default operation of the switch backlighting. * Checked 12v voltage in the closet: 13.2v when on shore power. I would think killing the juice from the batteries & no shore power should have caused a reboot of the multiplex system. I have not yet loosened / wiggled all 12v supply connections & main 12v circuit breaker bus in the rear closet. Lights on the Blue or Yellow loop are experiencing the same turn off symptoms so I don't think it is loop specific. The water pump and Aqua Hot electric switch "on indicator light" stays on as expected. I have not tried to figure out how to access & unplug the backside of the switches, nor have I unplugged / replugged the multiplex board edge connectors nor inline wiring harness connectors in the rear closet. What's the next thing to try? I would think it is totally unrelated but will mention I did recently & correctly install a new chassis battery bank (4 Lifeline GPL 1400T same as original equipment had). This is a very annoying situation as we are out and about for about the next 6 months. Things were working normally up through Feb when we stored the coach (plugged in) for about 3 months. Al

120V seems to make more sense. The iRV2 thread said the techs told him 115v to 120v. I wondered to myself how that wide range would work, but thought the factory techs must know what they are suggesting. However, I opened up my 40250 and the board does NOT have a J8 to jumper. My board is laid out differently than the diagram posted on iRV2. I called Southwire leaving a message on their tech support line but no callback yet. The only identifying label is 34575-012 v4.5 on a long narrow dip chip. Directly above that is an empty 3 pin header looks like labeled J2. No other headers to jump.

Thank you Frank. I will try this procedure when I move to a park with voltages in the 115 to 120 range.

For years, my leg 2 voltage displayed on the Aladdin via the Surgeguard 40250 ATS is 2 to 3 volts higher than actual. Even when leg 1 & 2 have to be the same coming in via a 30 amp dog bone, leg 2 is 2-3 volts higher than leg 1, and higher than what I read at an interior outlet. Leg 1 appears to report more accurately. Is there an adjustment to correct this mis-reporting on leg 2? As I was doing my annual torque of screw terminals, I see a couple of pots on the board but don't know what they are for. Where I'm plugged in now I measure a no load input voltage at the pedestal and outlets inside the coach at 125 / 126 volts. Aladdin reports 125 + 129 ... Flagging the 129 as potentially high. When I kick on an A/C on both legs the reporting drops to 123 / 125 drawing 16 amps each leg, and testing volts at outlets I read 123 on both legs. Any way to adjust the 40250 so it reports more accurate readings? I guess in theory the way it is now it could cut off power too early if the voltage rose a little more, or too late at another park that might really have a low voltage situation...but typically I would put my Hughes inline in that situation anyway to avoid brown outs.

I had a case where it wouldn't come down. I removed the trim and cranked it down. Later I tried to get it back up. At this one point I disconnected shore, turned off the inverter, flipped both house and chasis battery disconnects, waited 10 minutes and started powering back up. Had motor humming but no movement. Eventually determined the manual crank wasn't re-engaging the motor. Took a bit of playing with it pushing and pulling the manual crank & trying the electric until eventually I got a solid snap feel and got it re-engaged and up/down worked again. So after insuring the multiplex brain was rebooted & getting crank override re-engaged, it all worked. YMMV