amphi_sc

If it looks like mine in the picture showing the false high pressure alarms, then just more evidence I got new old stock as the design change was introduced into production. I always thought the monochrome was easier to read as it never needed the optional sun shade.

Steven, I bet you have a color monitor. From what I have seen, TST did not break the operation of that monitor as they did with the monochrome monitor. That monitor was still under development and not quite generally available when I bought my system. Mike Benson spoke of it as it was still a work in progress when I was inquiring, and he never mentioned that the then currently available monitor would soon start to fail with false alarms. Who knows how long this monitor will work until TST implements another change breaking that installed base too and leaving you "out to dry". I agree, the batteries last a reasonable length of time and are easy to replace.

With a fiberglass roof, I glued plastic corners (similar to these https://www.ebay.com/itm/143657226718 ) using a high strength Sika Flex adhesive. I forget the number, it might have been 252 or 221 or 552 but I don't recall for sure, so get comfortable with your own research. It may have been https://www.amazon.com/AP-Products-017-90915-Sikaflex-252-White/dp/B08TDZMWHM but too long ago to remember. Don't forget to check the expiration date on the glue cartridge. After marking the footprint of the plastic corners, I roughed up the roof and plastic corner with some sand paper before glueing. They are holding firmly after a few years, and I feel good not having any holes.

I'm late to the party on this topic as you've solved the problem by adding air into the accumulator, however as I have a somewhat huge accumulator (60 gallon bladder pressure tank) at the house on my water well for the S&B, and the small 2 gallon one in the coach, I'll proffer a tip from over the years on handling a water logged system.... Disconnect from city water, turn the coach water pump OFF, open a faucet and allow it to bleed out the remaining pressurized water. You can measure how much you get if you want to be OCD. Shake, tap, or feel the accumulator to see if it feels empty.... probably has water still in it as the air bladder hasn't forced that water out. So now I would check the air pressure in the bladder (if not zero bladder should not have a hole) and add some air into the bladder with the faucet still open to see if that forces out a bunch more water. If no water comes out, now your accumulator is empty of trapped water. If you start blowing air out the faucet you have a large hole in the bladder. Now that the system is purged, add air pressure up to your pre-charge PSI (BTW, faucet still open). I set mine around 35-37 psi as my pumps cycle 40-60 psi. Thus the bladder will push almost all the water out but a little is left to keep from stirring up sediment that may be in the very end, and it's not trying to overextend the bladder into the water line...i.e. when the pump cycles at 60 psi and you drain down to 40 psi cut in pressure, very little water remains in the tank. So if the system holds the pre-charge air pressure in the accumulator with water pump off and no city water and a faucet open, then the bladder likely has no pin holes. If it leaks down over time your bladder is shot but your accumulator can still function like old water wells did before bladder tanks, but over time your pre-charge air will absorb into the water and the system will become water logged again. (Probably the reason bladders were invented. I recall growing up and Dad would have to do this a couple times a year pre-bladder.) When you are happy with the bladder diagnostics, turn the pump on and let it cycle off, and you'll be able to draw almost two gallons of water before it cuts in again If you didn't drain the tank, you don't really know the bladder condition and also won't get max water between pump cycles, but the short cycling would have stopped anyway. Anything I missed? FWIW

Jim, As stated in my post, TST already offered a "discount code" off your website price that still ended up costing more than what I could find for a new monitor elsewhere. As you admit again, TST broke the existing installed base. In my opinion, TST should provide a gray scale monitor to correct the problem TST caused to the gray scale monitor. Mine worked fine until more and more of your new design hit the road, and still functions when not in the vicinity of newer TST systems. It does not have a problem being near Tire Minder, Pressure Pro, Tire Tracker, etc, only other TST systems. It wasn't until coming away from the remoteness of Alaska that my system started to encounter so many other systems that the problem became more evident. It did seem strange the problem only seem to happen as I slowed down to turn onto the campground, or had to go a couple miles down the road for it to "warm up" so as to not indicate my tires were going to blow to themselves off the rims! If I wanted color, I would agree I should pay to upgrade, however I do not desire new functions, just the existing gray scale functions that I bought in good faith to work. It should not be my fault for buying your product that TST broke. As you state, it may only be a small number of systems that you broke, but TST as a company should stand behind their business model in good faith. Since TST choose not to stand behind the product in good faith, it speaks very loudly of the ethics. I will gladly accept your shipment of a replacement gray scale monitor and ship your defective unit back to you under a RMA label. In my previous exchanges with Mike B we discussed my original purchase date and how it was apparently old new stock that I had no way of knowing TST was breaking as more new units were being deployed. As I recall from a previous brief discussion with you, TST introduced the design change just before I bought my complete system. When I purchased my system, there was no information to be found saying the system would be soon obsolete and non functional from system interference. It was not advertised as an obsolete end of life product. Sincerely, Al

Nevada Rob, If the Aladdin switch is momentary action, it might only cause a system reboot. My Aladdin goes off with the ignition (and I press the control pad to bring it back up) or via the shut down function. By the way, I replaced the water fill solenoid with this one ( https://www.ebay.com/itm/121358112687 ) as it had better operational pressure specs. Its pretty easy to recalibrate the tank sensors for full and empty. Mine were off quite a bit when I got my coach years ago. I forget the code to enter setup/calibration (tough getting older...) but something like 1218????

Karl and Bill, The false alarm problem is something the end user can not fix. Jim (from TST who has already posted several comments on this thread) as well as Mike B (VP at TST) will admit that TST made a design change that breaks the already installed and previously functional systems in the field. These facts are undisputed. TST admits a new monitor is needed to avoid the false alarms introduced by the new systems causing interference with the older monitors. (TST offered to sell me a new monitor at a "discounted" price that was actually HIGHER than what I would pay for it elsewhere.) TST made this manufacturing change before I bought my system but I got new old stock that is subject to interference producing the false high pressure alarms of over 400 PSI or 500 PSI (depending on the sensors in the system). Obviously, my tires can not jump from normal pressures to over 400 PSI in seconds. When I was in business, we made sure we "first did no harm" to our existing customers, or took steps fix them. TST chooses not to. If I had bought my system a couple months later I may not have gotten a system subject to the well known false alarm problem. Luck of the draw I guess. In the attached picture, you can clearly see a TST-507 attached to a tank showing dangerously low tire pressure while the display reads over 400 PSI from that sensor. It happens often, but I can ignore it most of the time and hope I don't ever get a flat at the same time as the system is displaying the false high pressure. I have personally witnessed other manufacturers standing behind their products in the field with recalls, etc. Not so in this case with TST. It is one thing if a product fails from normal use due to wear and tear vs this situation where the manufacturer breaks an otherwise working system (hopefully by oversight oops and not intentionally doing harm to their customers).

There are a couple parks I visit with low pressure (in the low twenties) so when there I leave Autofill on and water pump on to keep good pressure in the coach. I reorganized the plumbing connections slightly and put a check valve between where the Autofill taps off and where the pump feeds back into the line to avoid the pump from pushing water back into the tank when the auto fill opens. City water flows straight up the T's and the side branches are tank related. My Aladdin switches are over the entry door in the cabinet with the TV booster switch. FWIW

I still have the older 5 button thermostat and rear A/C heat pump load shares with washer only (dryer is 240V). When doing the wash and we forget to turn off that A/C, yes the load share kills the A/C as designed BUT as the washer current momentarily drops as it changes between washing modes the A/C may try to run for a few seconds until the washer demands more current. The load sharing relay arc'd out and had to be replaced probably from the high current loads of those brief seconds. So, we try to remember to turn off that A/C manually when doing the wash. If the new digital CCC thermostat got more intelligent and prevents the short run cycles by faulting with a power loss E7 code, that may be a good thing. Which thermostat is in your system?

I have a TST-507 that will drive you crazy with false high pressure alarms, so I just ignore them. TST knows they broke the system design either by accident or planned systemic obsolescence, but will not stand behind their product. The majority of the time it works well but typically I can't use the system to check cold pressures before leaving the campground until I get a couple miles down the road, so I'll manually use the old fashioned gauge to check for low tires if been parked for a while. Other times I have to drop my speed down by 10-15 MPH to get the false alarms to go away, then resume speed back to my typical 62-65 MPH. Even with all the false alarms, it did function correctly and trigger a low pressure warning when I happened to have a valve stem break causing a fairly rapid depressurization (I just happened to be on the freeway in an area of no interference). Batteries are easy to replace. In my mind, a TPMS of some kind is essential equipment. FWIW

I realize I'm a Beaver and not a pure Monaco, but I am a Beaver merged with Monaco. In my dash wiring I had a proper polarity service brake wire independent of the brake lights. I would not want trailer brakes (or toad brakes for that matter) to come on when the brake lights are active simply for the engine brake situation. I want brake lights when the engine brake is slowing me down, but not necessarily engaging real brakes in the towed vehicle until I step on the brake pedal. IMHO

On 30 Amps and it's hot, I'll throw the breakers between the main panel and the Magnum inverter (non hybrid kind) powered subpanel, and let the pedestal run 2 A/Cs on the main panel while the rest of the coach (including residential fridge, TV, etc) runs off batteries and solar from the subpanel. But that 30A pedestal is going to get very hot! At night when it's cooler, I'll drop back to just one A/C and flip the breakers back on to top off the batteries. Load sharing the Aqua Hot and one A/C unit also helps as most of the time the AH draws nothing when the water is hot (Just like the rear A/C load shares with the washer...) or just flip it to diesel. Three A/Cs on 30amp is way to much run current. I guess a large hybrid inverter might be able to supplement if the 3rd unit had a very low duty cycle and big battery bank, and the wiring was done appropriately such a that one A/C could be optionally powered from the inverter subpanel. Too complex for my thinking. If it's hot enough for 3 A/Cs, it's hot enough to find a 50A site. FWIW

Southern Tire Mart regular price was lower than the FMCA program price. But date code was 15 months old, I guess something to do with Covid. Figured I check Southern Tire Mart again this fall and maybe new stock will be in. This was using a 295 tire which is not as popular as the 11R size. I could probably get by with 11Rs on tag and drive, but need the load capacity of the 295 on steers.

Just a guess ... Try replugging the communication cables at t-stat, inline ceiling connectors, and roof unit control board several times to clean the contacts. Try some old style radio shack TV tuner cleaner if you have it. If rear unit daisy chained from the front, also replug front unit connectors at the control board. However, this would not explain the generator operation.

I've used the TST cap sensors on short rubber stems for the toad for 100,000+ miles with no problems other than all the false alarms my TST-507 system gives. (It's a known defect the manufacturer won't fix). Probably doesn't make much difference but the toad's tires were spin balanced with the sensors on (gone thru two sets of tires...). Have a friend with Tire Minder sensors on rubber stemmed toad also with no problems over many years and many miles other than an automatic car wash rotating brush once ripped a rubber stem out of the rim causing immediate flat! So I take mine off when going thru a car wash.

I have my suspicion on a bind up, but didn't disassemble it all the way to get into the motor to look deeper for a fragment of something in the gears. It's working smoothly at the moment so will probably leave well enough alone for a while. If at some future time I get to the point of swapping in a smart TV for the Toshiba dumb TV, I'll examine the motor guts or just swap in a new motor tube "just because".

Got it working again. The motor electrical disconnect when the manual crank is engaged threw me off for a while. And the manual crank was hard to engage. That leads me to think the gears/motor bound up originally. That might explain the initial hum I heard from the center of the drop down. After I cranked it down the hum disappeared. Anyway had good 12V reference voltage, good ground, up/down switches sent good 12v signal to the box, box had good 120v and TV powered on from the control box, unplugging the motor I had good 120V on the Up/down circuit board connector. Had open circuit on wires to the motor that had me chasing the limit switches for a while, but that turned out to be you must disengage manual crank to close motor circuit (a safety issue I presume). Ran it through about 5 cycles successfully, so now to put the trim back around.... By the way, liftmytv.com does have some parts available and GTR seems to continue technical support. They indicated the control box would be back in stock soon and the motor was in stock. But I didn't need any parts this time around. Lucky me 🥳

That PDF is going to be of great help. Thanks!!! I'm presently about ready to participate in a club rally that is starting in a couple hours, so probably won't get back to trouble shooting deeper until the middle of next week. Then I'll update again. Many thanks to this great group.

I've unplugged shore power, turned off the inverter, flipped both house and chassis battery cutoffs...waited a couple of minutes and then powered things back up. Still just hear the clicking sound of a relay. Time to dig deeper.

Never mind. Saying a few choice words and application of enough inward force and then a big CLICK, I got the manual crank to engage and could crank it down. Now to figure out why the motor isn't powering.... Still just clicks in either direction...

TV is stuck up. Push the down button and I hear a hum from toward the middle of the lift but nothing at the motor. I would guess that's the up/down relay. Push the up button and get a click. Probably it realizes it is at the limit up. I can see the crank on the left by the motor. I can turn it freely clockwise or counterclockwise but the mechanism doesn't attempt to lower. How do you engage it so I can lower the TV to get access to the parts that are apparently not working? I tried pulling and pushing even while turning, but nothing seems to engage. It's an 07 Beaver but I believe the same mechanism was in several other coaches.

FWIW, Just a reminder to check what a shop does if they work on the wheels with extenders and balance masters. Some how tech didn't line up all the holes right and jammed the stem+extender into the balance master and within a few miles down to the road the TPMS caught the air leak from the broken connection caused by the stress of being jammed into the balance master. New extender, new valve stem, realign the slots... 2.5 hours side of the freeway... Another time a different shop did some work on the oil hubs and again the tech didn't align the holes when reassembling, and he was a little teed off when I told him he had to fix it (reposition the outer dual) before I moved out of the service bay. (He had planned his day ending work 10 minutes before closing time and now he had to stay 30 minutes late on his own dime... Shop manager agreed...) Maybe I should think about going to a 180 degree bend extender vs the braided extensions if the techs can't seem to align the slots...

Not sure how the AH relates to the subject of "Transmission", but I'd check the temp cut off that screws into the tank. There should be one for the diesel burner and one for the electric element(s). If the diesel one has failed, the AH will go through the pre-ignition cycle but not ignite (I think because it prevents the fuel solenoid from opening) (do you hear the ignition clicking/sparking at the right point in the cycle?) thus the no flame will cause the unit to proceed through the cool down cycle and subsequently turn off.

When I replaced mine with the corresponding Doorman power window motor, the first three were made in China and lasted about 8-12 months, but AutoZone's lifetime warranty covered them no questions asked. The latest AutoZone warranty replacement was made in Korea and looks to have more metal parts vs the all plastic Chinese part. The internal plastic knobs/gearing would strip as the steps take more retract force than a typical power window. Replacement motor would spin fine but internal parts strip & chatter and thus slip under step retract mode. The original factory motor never slipped internally but armature developed a flat spot, and occasionally hitting it with a hammer got a couple of years use before it (or I) gave up. FWIW

That is indeed an interesting towing arrangement! What's your tag down force set to? I'd guess in the 70's. I was thinking the 295's on the front keep the sidewall flex point where it was designed (for cord fatigue) and rated for 7830 @ 120 & 7600 @ 115gives more of a margin than derated 315's, even with the low rim rating.