Nevada Rob

I can not find a tank anywhere. The tank is at a body shop to possibly be plastic welded together. I guess Onan/Cummins figures they are good with a throwaway generator. Maybe I can fab one in the shop that fits perfectly as a replacement. Spend hundreds of hours on prototypes. Then finally get a product dialed in and sell them for a ton of cash???

I checked with them. They are "backordered" according to their answered email.

I did not yet but thanks for the reminder. I will do that. Good to know and thanks for the info.

This just a short FYI kind of post. My AquaHot has seemed to not burn real clean or work real well. Today I installed a new fuel filter and burner nozzle. What I found was that the soft/flexible air intake port material was folded over onto itself where it goes through the floor. I think the burner nozzle and filter were the original and the previous owner was a little less than honest when he told me the unit was freshly serviced. The fuel filter had black body undercoating spray still on it. Besides being an old nozzle and fuel filter with 535 hours on the unit, I think the air restriction was the real problem. After the new nozzle, fuel filter and making sure there was good air intake, that heater seems to run much better. When I fired it up I was shocked at the amount of carbon chunks were blown out the exhaust pipe.

The coolant tank for the generator is cracked in 4 places. I appears that Cummins/Onan has decided to not produce these tanks any longer. I am guessing Cummins is just like a ziplock bag. Use a little then throw it away and get a new one. I have searched the inter-web for a replacement with zero results. Has anyone tried to plastic weld the tanks as a repair? To have a tank custom built is very costly.

I agree with everything Tom wrote. I plug my 2008 Dynasty into the garage/shop GCFI circuit all the time and never have a problem. I keep the refer on almost all the time and it charges the house batteries. If you do not select the 15 amp setting on the inverter incoming then the inverter will draw to many amps from your house/garage circuit and trip the breaker in your panel at home. When you plug into any land based power source you should hear the ATS click or thump. We ran our coach for two weeks on a Honda EU 7000 while out boondocking in Northern Arizona. Just charging the batteries and power for convection oven and big screen TV. You know, roughing it. On a side note, if you ever use a portable generator like a Honda or Yamaha there is a trick to making it work. But that is another story.

I must be the luckiest guy on the planet. The hardest part of installing a brake controller was getting down on the floor and squeezing in between the driver seat and the steering column. At 6' 3" and 215 lbs coupled with a few hard years on the body, I have decided that I am not Gumby like anymore. The plug was hanging right there on the left side of the column waiting to be used. With the all the amazing help this site has and the willingness of many to provide pictures and advise, the whole job took 45 minutes and one cold beer start to finish. The two attached pictures shows all I needed to know.

Thanks for the thoughts. I just cut the factory plug off and wired straight up to the brake controller. Very straight forward. Someone sent over a color layout of the factory wires and what they did. The blue wire and white were as they should be. The only switch is the black and red. The black on the controller is 12 Volts supply. It works good. I have been driving it for two years without trailer brakes towing our enclosed trailer. It is not real heavy or load down but better to get something back there.

I do not believe the trailer brakes are activated by the exhaust brake. The controller only show output when the brakes are applied. Nothing with the exhaust brake. I think everything is good and I used the wires from the factory plug.

The 3035 looks right in the picture but it is hard to tell. I need this done today and I doubt anyone in town that is open today will have what I need. I think that I will cut that plug off and hard wire up with connectors. I have some wire connectors that are very secure and can be used multiple times. They are much better than crimp butt connectors. Thanks for the input. I better get at it before the thunderstorms and heavy rain hits again. Have a great day.

Now to find the correct adapter plug. Maybe a TeKonsha # 3035??

Is this the plug you are referring too?

We had the exact same problem with our 2008 Dynasty kitchen slide. The source of the smell was a small crack in the drain line from the sink that moves or flexes when the slide-out moves. It is located under the TV in that space where everything makes the large 90 degree bend to accommodate the movement. I could not see the crack as it was under all the other water lines and cables that are zip tied to the drain hose. IT smelled bad as the grey tank can stink as much as the black. Replacing the hose fixed the problem. I did a desert bush fix with parts from Home Depot. The flexible tube is an odd size. I think my research had it as a tube from the hot tub build world. Best of luck on your situation.

My coach and I are a bit older and have some miles on us. Sometimes we both leak air when we should not. Sometimes we both have a fluid leak that is not normal. Sometimes on cold morning my coach and I do not start as fast as we once did. There have been times when my coach and I both lean a little to the port side. I treat my coach like I treat myself. If I need some preventive maintenance, I go see the doctor. He checks my fluid levels, tightens a few fittings, may adjust a setting or two and I am back on the road. Your coach needs an annual check up with your Primary Care Mechanic. I try to plan the best I can for the "what if's" in life. We all do. But I never let the "what if's" plan my life and program. My input would be to have your coach checked out. Plan the best you can and leave the rest in God's hands.

I just had the same problem. We were out boondocking and had the power cord out to a separate generator and the Starlink cable running up inside the wet bay. If you have the door that lifts up and out then we most likely have the same door. I inflated the left side air bags all the way up. Then laid on the ground and removed the two most outer white access caps. Use a screw driver to get them loose then unscrew and push them inside the compartment. This allows you to reach up inside the compartment and located the horizonal rods that release the latches on either side. Push or pull the rod end into the center of the door. I just used my hands to move the rods. It took two people to do this as my latch mechanism was less than free moving due to rust and corrosion. Once the sides release then push up on the center rod to release the center latch. I opened the door 5 or 6 times this way until the new handle arrived. Trimark still makes the handle. They have many that look very similar. I called the customer service number and the rep was great and very helpful. Together we figured out exactly which part number to order. I sent the rep pictures of what I had and she found a perfect match. The new handle took about 10 days to get delivered and fit perfect. Cost was just under $200.