amphi_sc

Mine did that. Tried all type tank cleaning...happy camper extreme et al. Finally tried a tornado turbo nozzle, cut off the tank mount flange so I could screw it onto a garden hose and shove it up the black tank thru the valve. It beat around and a lot of scale came out. I'm assuming some scale had partially come loose next to the input and that it would trap water there throwing off the stick on sensors that are right there by the input. A lot of the scale came out as grit, a few quarter size flakes, and a couple of flat pieces maybe a couple inches in diameter. Mine would be green for a flush or two, then turn red. Interesting observation was that I could back fill the tank from the sani-flush and it would cycle properly turning yellow at 70% and then red about 100% on the Alladin. But one or two flushes on an empty tank would always turn red. Thus my theory of loose scale by the input.... Since letting the tornado beat the inside of the tank, it has been functioning normally. FWIW, Al Tecma Silence mascerator

To me, nothing seems to me as solid to step on as the old SCS Frigette. At some point in the future, I may have to look for or make a compatible regulator gear as some teeth are wearing. The side glides can be easily replaced. The doorman replacement motors use a cheap plastic housing that needs caution when replacing, but at least have a lifetime warranty. FWIW Al

I have Dish and Travl'r with the default 3 Sats Western Arc. At the extremes, I've received at least 1 sat on the Western coast of New Foundland and at least 1 sat in Alaska. When way up north the dish is pretty horizontal. In northern New Foundland it would hit the mechanical limit when skewing so sometimes set it to manual mode on one Safelite... as it looks right down the St Lawrence... No problem receiving the 5 majors from a Sat although I seldom watch those networks. Also have the OTA adapter for the Hopper that ties in the Batwing if I take the time to scan locals. We seem to prefer standard movie and "cable" news channels to prime time. Sometimes trees may block 129 so I'll view the SD version from 119. Same if 110 is blocked. Most of the time I will not do a "check switch" and let it think all 3 Sats are available and let it automatically switch down to SD when HD is temporarily blocked. FWIW, YMMV, Al

At a couple of random times I've heard the motor turn for a couple of seconds and then quit, and this was long after and not associated with any control panel actions. Kinda surprised me one night... BTW, as I must open and close it manually, the motor is disengaged from the spline at the moment, so even under a no load situation it doesn't function. The exhaust fan (blades) runs fine, throttles up and down via the control panel just fine. As I crank it open manually the outside switch breaks contact with the lid and the exhaust fan motor runs normally. It is the lid lift open/close motor that it's the problem. As stated earlier, removed the motor and jumped to battery terminals it runs. Why would the lift motor wires seem to have a constant 4 volts? Is there another logic board burried some place else? Seems to be only two wires from the cabinet control panel that disappear into a wire loom heading into the wall then presumably ceiling someplace. Implying a serial communication to something? Control panel will control the fan blade speed just fine. There is a little age discoloring on one edge of the rain sensor, but it seems detect water dampness and turns off the blades when damp and resumes the blades when it dries out. But it used to also trigger the open/closer motor too. And the rain switch when set to off ingores any water/dampness ... is not detected and had no effect on the blade speed. When "on" the dampness turns off the fan blades. The blades seem to ramp up to have full voltage. There is no binding when I disengage the lift motor and crank the lid manually. My apologies for restating the symptoms again, but I guess my first statement wasn't clear.

Fantastic Fan will no longer open or close with the motor. If I manually crank it up it will run. If I dampen the rain sensor the fan will turn off but will not close the lid. I took the up/down motor out and jumped it to the 12v battery and it runs slowly as I guess it is supposed to as it is marked 4 RPM. Measure the voltage coming to the motor wires and it seems to read about 4 volts all the time. No change when I start or stop the fan from the control panel. Where to look next?

As I recall, an old grill I used many years ago used the small 1 lb green screw on tanks and had a built in regulator that could not be by passed, and that built in regulator would thus not allow already regulated low pressure gas to pass. Also, as I recall, there were 20 lb tank hoses that would allow unregulated gas tank pressure to that corresponding type of mini tank screw on fitting. But I would feel uncomfortable using that hose all the time under high pressure even from a 20 lb tank. However, there is indeed a short (maybe 6-8 inch) hose that goes from my coach's 100 lb frame mounted tank to the coach's regulator then another short hose to the black iron low pressure distribution pipe. I have had to replace that first short hose before as it aged and I felt it was getting too old considering the consequences and constant pressure it is under. I recall a worrisome time when a nearby TT had a dual tank setup where a high pressure hose from the A-frame tanks to the regulator sprung a gas leak one hot day. Also my old junior high school blew up one winter night due to a gas leak, and it leveled the 3 story building throwing bricks 1/3 mile away. And that was a medium pressure under ground natural gas line. Even with that said, I prefer some gas to a total electic coach. With indoor gas stove cooking, outside grill and firepit, I don't even use a half tank a year (and we spend the majority of a year in the coach ... well, except for this year so far ...). The S&B has a 500 gallon tank and is all copper and black iron pipe from tank to house appliances. ...end of ramblings...

I was going from memory in that the 1 lb green bottles are a higher pressure gas setup and grills that are designed for them would not get adequate gas. If you can run your 1 lb green tank type of grill from a standard 20 lb tank and a standard regulator, then it might work from the coach's regulator too.

Referencing my Beaver, it is indeed on the regulated low pressure side all ready to tap for most low pressure BBQ grills and fire pits that would use a standard 20 lb tank (not the grills that use the small 1 lb green bottles). I simply added "Mr Heater" quick connectors and the appropriate Mr Heater hoses - I have three hoses so I can combine as desired to move the grill/fire pit many many feet away... Connectors and hoses easily found from Ace, Northern Tool, Home Depot, etc. As I recall, they had a built in safety high flow shut off just in case...not typical air line quick connectors....

FWIW, If needed, I flip the breakers going to the inverter so there is no pass thru and the batteries power the fridge/satellite/TV/misc and can get by with two of the three 15k units running until the outside temp hits about 92 when the increased heat/resistance will cause 30A breaker to trip. Then it becomes limp on one unit or generator time. This assumes the 30A breaker at the pedestal isn't old and worn out, socket is good, etc. Naturally I try for a 50A site if I know the electric demand will be needed.

Hello Paul, Question on your smaller cord. How is the flexibility in cold weather? I probably have the same glendinning setup as you had where the cord (after the friction rollers) must twist and coil itself as it flops into the round storage box. My existing and presumed original cord gets pretty stiff in cold weather and I have to help push it up to the rollers and into the box. The advantage of the flopping design vs a rotating reel is being good solid connections through the box as there is no rotating contactor that is prone to fail, but cold weather has always been hard to wind up. The extra length would be pretty handy at times too. I'm wondering what your post words "anew at" in "let me know that anew at wanted to fit" really meant.

When mine wore out bad enough to bug me into finally replacing it, I just got a new one, rivets and all ... One stop shopping. I figured the original lasted x years so a new one should go about that long again and I might not need to sorry about it by that time. The lady at Veurinks used the build sheet for my serial number to make sure it had the right dimensions as there are a few differences in length/width and they had quite a selection. Sure, it cost a few more bucks more but I could swap it out quickly in an hour (if it took me that long) and be done with it, and still have the old one I could mess with in my spare time (so far I haven't messed with the old one, it's still sitting on a shelf and probably will sit there for years... Maybe some day I'll send it off to Randy to have a great working spare...). I thought about using rivnuts on the door instead of rivets, but again thought the old lasted a decade+ so how often would I need to swap this thing.... And the door attaching rivets won't loosen up, but you need a good tool to pull those heavy duty rivets. Give 'em a call and keep the old as a spare... https://shop.findmyrvparts.com/searchresults.asp?Search=swing+arm+assembly&Submit= Just my 2 cents worth.

I also had a roller break loose on that BR slide where the heads of the 2 screws on a middle roller popped for some reason allowing that roller to come totally free. I believe my '07 Patriot Thunder Winchester III is extremely similar to your Nobel III. Had no warnings of any problems with that slide until big pop when the heads broke on that one roller upon retraction one day. BTW, Slide is hydraulic with a flow control valve by front steps where one can adjust the speed of movement, and it was throttled down quite a bit from full flow. I retrieved the roller+bracket from under the trim and the slide continued to function with no binding under minimal use until I could get to a shop a couple weeks later. They could not find a cause of why the screw heads popped off. I probably could find pictures of that area under repair if desired. It was hard to find all the screws attaching that carpeted trim piece.

I've looked at the balance master's website but there are many different designs/part numbers for the 295 22.5 size wheels. Which one(s) fit the three axle roadmaster from 2006/2007?

Scotty, I want to Ditto big THANKS for the great job you've done! Some days I get busy and a couple daily digests might get deferred to read a day or two later, but to me, a weekly would have way too much content to digest at once. You sure have put a lot of effort into making this a great place. It is much appreciated.

I've noticed that the "last" daily digest issue I received (#30) by email is not found in the "Monacoers Daily Digest" forum on the website. It appears to have only recorded up to #29. Is that a clue as to what happened?

This afternoon (Monday) about 2:30 I started getting the Daily every 30 minutes +- a couple. Had been fine until now, but it isn't a big deal, they stack together under a thread. I'd rather have a dozen or two than no digest at all.

All is still perfectly fine here. Received one daily digest yesterday (Sunday). BTW, I turned off the weekly one before it went live, so perhaps that could be a clue as to why its working correctly and as desired for me.

Nope. Everything working as expected here. I am subscribed for the daily only, if that configuration makes any difference.

For several years I used the Verizon broadband router with voice (now hardware discontinued from Verizon store but available elsewhere https://www.amazon.com/Novatel-Verizon-Broadband-Router-T1114/dp/B00JL57PMG ). Its reception was better than a jet pack, could even tie in remote antennas. It also could be configured for two voice lines (which we never did). I just recently dropped it from our plan when we switched to unlimited basically to get Canada/Mexico in the plan, not so much for data ... we were on older Verizon shared data L plan where the router was only $10/month shared data but on unlimited it jumped a lot $$$ and we wanted the international calling on the phones as a priority (which on the shared data plans was outrageous $$$) and we now use an ASUS bridged router to connect wired Ethernet to a phone as a hot spot when needing hard wired access. I too needed wired lan access for some other older devices where the wireless hardware was very buggy with WPA but very stable with now basically unsuported WEP so had to use CAT 5 for them. Verizon now has a 5g home modem/ router (in some areas) with a single wired port that would go to your existing router. I have been thinking about doing either one for home and dropping Charter Spectrum if Charter ups their price again. Looking at the logs in my top DD-WRT home router we still don't use anywhere near 25gig a month in the S&B, even stuck here in the covid lockdown. I was very happy with the T1114 for years on the road, and it is now sitting unused for about 4 months. At this price point, putting the old router on its own plan would be just a little cheaper than Charter so wasn't going to shake it all up yet at the S&B as 5g should be here relatively soon. Hope this post didn't get too far off in the weeds

We're in the DFW metroplex, NE Tarrant county off 114. Not a Sig, but an '07 Beaver Patriot Thunder, Winchester III. That's 45' with full wall slide. Non multiplex, no def, but a 525 hp Cat, and wouldn't trade for anything on the market. PM me or let us know if it is something to give you ideas. Its not a Sig that you are looking for, and to be perfectlt clear, it is not leaving our hands for any amount. Al

Hey Jeff (JDstew), how about a link to the displays/transformers you used. Looks nice.

I voted yes under the assumption it would be in addition to Daily. I really really REALLY like the Daily Digest and say a Big thank you for implementing it. Without it I wouldn't take the time to keep up with site. For me personally, I would stay with Daily so I don't get too far behind. Thanks for a great job!!!!

I thank all for the responses. Nothing has been totally decided yet. Al '07 Patriot Thunder

We are considering adding a 5 to 7 cu foot chest freezer such as found at Lowes or Home Depot. Two placement options come to mind. Years ago we removed a jack knife sofa and put two lazy boys there on the full wall (30 foot) slide. The quick option: We could remove one lazy boy completely we seldom use and place the freezer on that slide in the front corner. The floor is wide enough but as that slide drops for a "flat" floor I wonder about the structural affect with the lifting and support when retracted when the freezer contains 200-300 pounds of meat. This could allow easy swapping back for extended trips where freezer is not needed (maybe freezer in half the year and lazy boy in the other half year). Another more complex option is removing the love seat sofa completely from the opposite side's shorter kitchen slide which does not raise and drop. However, due to the outside TV, the floor at the couch is only 12 inches wide (the couch being bolted has no problem being cantilevered over the nothing ness). I should be able to create a steel and plywood floor with additional supporting interior roller(s) to construct a 26 inch wide spot on top of the existing floor for the freezer to sit. At that point, I'd probably remake the wider floor long enough to move the front lazy boy over to that side too backing up to the kitchen sink cabinets and thus creating space for a new small light weight cabinet relocating the love seat's drawer full of sewing/embroidery/etc supplies in its place on the full wall side. This would be a more permanent change and also narrows the walkway when the slides are pulled in. Thoughts, opinions, suggestions please...including similar capacity freezer options for a storage bay (which are generally stuffed too). Al H. '07 Patriot Thunder 45'

I learned a lot from this thread. First off, I was never seeing ANY signatures so I went to check my own and lo and behold there was a setting under signatures that was not turned on to display signatures. My signature was there but by flipping the toggle now signatures (including my own) magically appeared everywhere! Here all the time I thought nobody posted a signature or it was broke. Then I explored my profile (which by the way said was 100% complete) and I see a required city/state field that was blank. I was going to put in Dallas/Fort Worth as nobody would know where my podunk town was located. But I decided to click on other member photos/icons first to see what they had. In the small random sample of profiles I looked at I could never see where that field was ever displayed. Or maybe nodody has ever filled in that required field?? That would seem like a good place to enter the info IF it was displayed someplace. Anyway, I found this to be a very educational topic. FWIW,