amphi_sc

Huh? On my coach the "fan speed" setting the thermostat controls the fan in the roof unit only. It has nothing to do with the AquaHot registers. In fact, my bedroom zone and bathroom zone only have 1 unchangeable speed while the roof units have high and low (I still have the 5 button thermostat) where auto just selects between high and low speed. The kitchen AquaHot zone does have 3 speeds (high/med/low) controlled by a multiplex switch on the wall where the kitchen lights, water pump, and AquaHot electric / diesel, etc, are located. Although the kitchen zone also runs the register at the front dash, that register is also only one speed and the Hi/med/low setting on the multiplex switch has no effect on that front dash register in the front (kitchen living room) zone although it blows based on the front kitchen zone cycle. As far as I know, the thermostat connects to the roof units which then send only a simple on/off "furnace" signal via a wire pair to the basement AquaHot. I'd probably pull the cabinet drawers/floor and see about lubing the fan motor of the affected registers and the wire connections there. YMMV as I'm a Beaver built by Monaco, and not a "true" Monaco.

Dumb question. Does your washer/dryer require 240V? And is your shore power at the moment 30A 120 via a dog bone? Or perhaps a "pseudo" pedestal 50A circuit where both legs are the same phase? As you say it works on you Generator and I think you said your transfer switch was transferring power to both legs on shore power, my guess is the shore power is wrong. My washer is 120V but my dryer is 240V and I came across one Encore park in NY where the 50A circuit was wired wrong at the pedestal and both legs were the same split phase and thus no dryer. BTW, I had to go thru to the third park maintenance guy to finally convince them it was incorrectly wired and not a broken dryer. My apologies if this aspect has already been beaten to death. By the way, my "load shedding device" for the third (rear) A/C and washer is on the wall behind the washer, but when the relay in mine failed I had power to washer but not the A/C. On mine, the washer was always hot and when it detected current > couple amps it would open the A/C relay. I think what killed mine was we didn't always turn off the bedroom A/C when doing laundry and sometimes when the washer was idle between spin/agitate/dump/etc, the A/C would kick on for 30 seconds until the washer's current draw came back up, the probably arcing the relay. But the relay is not involved in the washer side of the circuit. I understand your symptoms are totally different.

I'm not concerned about the rest of the wet bays and water lines, but as I may see some low twenties or teens for several days before getting to the citrus tree climate, I wonder about that tiny water line. It exits the basement and follows the main electrical bundle of wires underneath the slide hanging out there in the clear cold air with the elec whip until it re-enters the slide at the outside of the slide wall. We will likely have the slides out as we are parked for a couple weeks in the colder clim. I'm not sure it would drain by gravity feed if I just turn the water manifold valves off and opened the manifold drain to drain just that line. It looks to be fed from the wet bay's cold water faucet line which I could leave off if I was sure it drained dry. Obviously as we are staying in the coach using the other water lines (from the tank as needed) I am not winterizing with antifreeze. Is that exposed tiny plastic fridge water line able to handle expanding freeze/thaw cycles without problems? Or should I try blowing air backwards thru the wet bay cold water faucet while DW continually draws fridge water until that spits air? Or separate the line at the rear of the fridge and slip a vinyl extension over it so I can blow air backwards back thru to the manifold drain. Hummmm.... I think water would settle in the gently rolling contours of the horizontal part under the slide. Probably over thinking this.

In my 07 (built in 06 Beaver), fuse is in the front run box and clearly labeled "step". My FRB is the many board version and not the multiplex version that was introduced a bit later. Your 07 Monaco may be same. I also somewhat recall a tricky procedure with the timing the position of the step switch and ignition switch and timing of turning ignition on/off and when to change the step switch position. It usually happens to us by accident when the switch is accidentally bumped and I stop for lunch or something where the coach is off before I ever thought about needing to go outside and I fall out the door as the steps didn't come out. 🤬 I've managed to do it once or twice on purpose, but I found it tricky and don't remember the exact sequence. So I retract the steps and pull the fuse when needed. FWIW

Hi Bob, No, just remove the trim from the inside of the opening. Remove the fuse (for safety), a screw to remove the manual crank knob (makes it easier to reach the other screw especially when trying to put it back up), two screws for the lift motor cover and the lift motor drops in your hand, three screws around the edges then wiggle it down dragging all the wires. Couple of wires wrap around the entire trim so unclipping them first drops it down s little further making it easier to unplug the other wires. When putting it back up I also removed the 8-10 screws on the screen so I could reach through to keep the wires tucked as I put it back in place. Like you, I did experience times when removing the fuse, waiting a minute, and reinserting the fuse sometimes allowed the lift motor to work again for a short while. I was thinking either noise in the power supply or output transistor in an unstable state causing that weird 4 volt reading I sometimes got. Al

Hi Rich, Things have changed a LOT with the company since they've changed hands twice. 4 or 5 years ago I had a problem with the lift rail cracking off the dome lid on one fan. Called Fantastic Vent not only did they offer to send a new lid (just pay for however I wanted it shipped ... air overnight, ground, USPS, etc) but they also said sometimes the lift arm itself or roll pin gave problems and included those for free too. I mentioned that I had two identical vents and they doubled everything in the shipment. Just pay however I wanted it shipped, and it was shipped that same day. So now they have gone through Atwood and Dometic ownership. Got through to them via a long phone tree and several transfers. Lady said that was an old out of production unit, didn't any parts for it. Thought the more recent MC104D should work but couldn't provide one for any price. Suggested one of their distributors whom I called, but they looked and said they could not get nor find a reference nor an ordering method even for the internal part number Dometic gave me. IMHO, The new ownership is helpful and had info on the old unit, but not like the old company used to be...as is the case with a lot of mergers and acquisitions. In the end, I got enough info to get my vent working satisfactory and didn't have to try to replace it with the newer model that has the hand held wireless remote. Information I got from eTrailer and other places seem to indicate the newer model won't reopen automatically when the rain stops. I haven't seen if the replacement MC104D board I got includes that feature or not as the coach is in storage now and I didn't wait for the rain sensor to dry out by itself when I was testing it. FWIW

As I'm looking at steers, the 295 would actually have more capacity at 7830 vs the derated 315 at 7610. My front axle is very close to 15k to keep the drive axle within limits by the tag carrying more. Interesting.

It has been a while and it took me a while to fix it as the fan worked manually and at random times would actually open and close the dome lid from the control panel. Anyway, FWIW in case somebody else has a problem with an erratic Fantastic Vent lift motor operation: After digging around the trim in the ceiling I removed the control board and tried cleaning the contacts. No change but I kinda thought it had to be that control board from swapping parts. The Electrolytic caps looked fine, but back in my mind I was thinking it was probably them failing. Anyway, I couldn't sucessfully locate the exact MC104C Long board but tried a MC104D short board (circuit design and components quite a bit different and much shorter but still had the same connector layout along the two edges and mounting screw locations). That fixed the problem. Even tho the new to me board (made in 2015) came with a new rain sensor, I just plugged in the old rain sensor first to minimize the work required to get the new sensor up to the roof and rivited in, but luckily the old rain sensor still worked fine with the new board (put water on it and it closed the fan dome as it should). There is one minor operational change between this D board from my original C board, and that is when I use the control panel to turn the fan off and lower the dome, the old (C long) board (verified as I still have an identical functioning vent in the kitchen) immediately turns off the fan blades as the lift motor retracts the dome lid whereas the newer D board keeps the fan blades running until the dome lid retracts enough to contact the plunger. Both boards seem to drive the lift/retract motor until it senses a high current draw from the dome hitting the travel limit. By the way, be cautious of what sites pop up on google searching as one of my first hits for an instock old C long style control board likely turned out to be a scam site, but PayPal resolved the dispute relatively quickly including the initial over charge from the listed price, and the vendor claim of even shipping it from Las Vegas and delivering it to my city even before I ordered it, (according to the tracking number the vendor provided). PayPal did the full refund with no hassels. Later I did a little IP address verification where it showed to be an offshore venture with dummy US contact info. YMMV Also shortly after that I started getting more scam phishing phone calls on the phone number used in that problematic purchase order. Coincidence?? Anyway, it has all worked out in the end.

George, thanks for the reply. As I'm looking at the 16 ply load range H speed rating M 295 (or 315) size, maybe that is why your FMCA quote didn't mention the HSR2 SA. I'll post mine below. My local shop quoted $420 a tire plus the usual mount, balance, and disposal fees.

You referenced the HSR2, but how about the HSR2 SA? https://www.continental-truck.com/truck/products/tires/people/hsr2-sa The top of the page says a steer regional tire however further down the page says steer or all position, regional/long haul, bus or large RV. Both the 295 and 315 approved for 8.25 or 9 inch rims. So would the regional characteristics be better for the off interstate application of secondary roads and campgrounds vs a true long haul tire? Would the stiffer sidewall construction run noticeably harsher? Would it really make much of a difference in lowering fuel mileage? My local dealer beat the FMCA price by almost a hundred bucks per tire and was willing to take the effort to get good date codes from the warehouse. And the shop had plenty of 18 wheelers lined up for tires so I guess they do a good volume although the trucks/trailers typically used a lighter duty tire. Although I had always liked Michelin on my cars and pickups, after two sets cracking on the RV I'm thinking elsewhere, but still up on the air. I can get almost two Continental's for the price of one Michelin. Going thru western Canada and Alaska I saw a lot of tour busses running Continentals but I didn't pay specific attention to the tire model. I've heard the Toyo's have a special "country farm" odor to them but don't know that from experience.

Tom, If for some reason I were to replace my existing 40250-RV with the alternative two component solution consisting of the HW50C, would that simply tie into my Aladin displays as the 40250 does now? Or would one have to run new monitoring wires and find a place/method to mount yet another display? My existing stuff always shows L2 as 2-3 volts higher than it actually is as measured with other meters on either side of the transfer switch... Or even when the coach is fed with a 30A to 50A pigtail so both legs would have to be equal as it comes from a single leg in that instance. At some parks with good but high voltage up around 126-127 no load, the 2-3 volt error causes the Aladin to warn of high 130 on leg 2. So for a couple of years I've been toying with the idea of replacing the 40250... I'm curious but not immediately worried as so far it has never tripped the coach out on high voltage, but will trip on low V when I don't plug in the Hughes AF. (Or bad neutral or one leg open, etc, as it should.). I don't always leave the Hughes in place as with it's 2% voltage bump in pass thru mode it can aggravate that false L2 high voltage "problem" I have.

Our 45' Beaver needs 100 on drive and 120 front according to weighing and Michelin inflation chart. Tire shop recommended tag no less than 85 even tho inflation chart suggested it could be lower.

FWIW, I've replaced the bearings with just common inline roller skate bearings when the original 2006 bearings wore out. I clean blades couple times a year. Make my own gaskets. Maybe getting time for a spare impeller.

My experience. Alternator bearings went out so being side radiator easily took the belt off (belt ran alternator and dash air only, nothing else). Drove 200 miles on Onan generator to bigger city Freightliner. New exact replacement # shipped in for about $700 as I recall, part only. Rear radiator so was an easy DIY install except for swapping the pulley. Couple years later that new one cooked itself when internal regulator went bananas around Fallon NV. Had choice going back to Reno or continuing to Vegas where we had reservations. Again took off the belt and again drove about 400 miles to Vegas on the generator to our campsite in town. Had alternator rebuilt by a local shop who replaced field coil, bearings, regulator, etc....pretty much just reused the housing: cost about $275 (and did it in a day). That rebuild has been perfect for several years now. (By the way, tried to have the first one rebuilt by a couple of shops but they say the way it ate itself when the bearings went out made it impractical to rebuild. Otherwise I'd carry it as a spare I probably would never need...that's the way spare parts usually work for me...) FWIW

Had 1/2 tank left when leaving CA so filled up in Fallon NV at .85 cheaper than CA, then Albuquerque even cheaper, then 1.61 (with PenFed credit card discount) at QuikTrip in DFW area...less than 1/2 the price I paid in CA. Credit cards are less hassels than trying to figure out TSD billing alternating checking accounts (business vs personal use), and easier to get in and out of rather outrageous truck stops. The high volume pumps also usually leave me 15 gallons short due to the way they blast fuel in and can't throttle it down. FWIW

Something jammed in the macerator blades so the motor doesn't run? Have you pulled it out from the wall and removed the rubber hose like sweep to see into the plastic blade area? (I am assuming you were talking about a Tecma Silence) FWIW

Another thing to check is the limit cut offs. One does electric, another for the diesel burner. They screw into the tank with two wires coming from them. If the diesel one has opened up I don't think the fuel solenoid will open, so the cycle will start ... Evacuate the chamber, attempt to spark (you'll hear the click - I think I used to hear about 3 in rapid succession) but with no fuel from a closed solenoid no ignition so no flame detected and will go into cool down/shut down cycle. As I recall, the two cut offs are identical. I carry a spare and naturally have not had to use it after one of the originals failed a few years ago. I also have an 03S. Fwiw

The true "snow belt" really starts south of Watertown. Getting around Evans Mills you might find a farmer that has quit farming and sold some of his fan land for house lots. So maybe he has an empty barn/tool shed that could provide some servere weather protection. As cold as it will get, you won't have water + sewer hooked up anyway. Maybe an unused hay barn close to the milk house, and might find full phase (both legs) in the breaker box as hot water heater/milk cooler/vac pump/gutter cleaner/etc would have had nice demands. Just a crazy idea thinking outside the box, but I would probably try to get base housing. Fwiw

Having been born and raised in that area around Watertown, it is a nice area with the scenic Thousand Islands and Adirondacks so close by to enjoy. But winters used to be brutal. Cold cold way below zero then suddenly warm up and melt snow then cold and more snow. Wind and blowing snow... Best wishes, Allen

That sounds just perfect to me as we will be heading "home" in 2-3 weeks to vote and then these spares should arrive for storage until we stay put long enough to install.

Removed information about an aftermarket small profile software updatable WIFI/Bluetooth enabled thermostat that is compatible with the new Penguin II heat pump units per request. I'll just keep the info to myself for when I replace my units.

In addition, I would think you'll have to locate and wire in a remote temp sensor to the roof unit as the parlor living area will heat/cool differently than the bed room. You probably already have a remote sensor around the bathroom sink area. You might be able to repurpose the data cable from the thermostat you want to remove and use that for the remote sensor, but I'm not sure of the details. I'm possibly thinking about that as I only have 4 inches of wall width space where the front thermostat is. FWIW

Here's what I found in the installation manual regarding specific model numbers. So it looks like one could specifically order from the factory with the right board for the thermostat of choice. However, dealers might only keep in stock the one(s) they think would typically sell. FWIW

I also have used these panels from this particular eBay seller and have been a very satisfied customer. I have both the 4x9 and 6x6 cell arrangements to fit on my roof the way I wanted. I would buy his panels again if I had capacity and real estate.

As another tidbit, My 2007 45 footer came with three 15k pumps. The problem I will have is replacing the front thermostat as the wall between the spice cabinet door to bath door is only 4 inches wide unless I mount it 2 1/2 feet up from the floor instead of eye level. Or mount it rotated 90 degrees. Either way is a problem.... Also have to watch refrigerator door clearance when that slide is retracted if I opt for the other side of the bath door. The rear (and center unit) wall space is just 6 inches wide so a new CCC2 might barely fit there. I'm hoping Chris will post the new wiring options on the "H" model he hinted was now plug compatible with the original narrow 5 button thermostat so I can avoid these issues when the time comes.