amphi_sc

I have that too. Although mine doesn't "switch" per se, by turning off the booster the cable TV input in the wet bay is not over powered by the booster and park cable comes in fine. (Single coax is split 4 times to front, bay, and BR TVs and a feed to the A/V cabinet. Sat feeds TVs by RCA and HDMI cables. A separate coax feeds BR Joey from front Hopper.) If the booster (green light) is on, then the park cable input doesn't work at any TV. Just switch the TV tuner type between OTA or Cable. I usually keep it off as the powered unit on the mast gave out once and had to replace that. I do have the OTA routed to my Dish receiver (dual USB OTA turner) so it integrates local OTA into the guide with the satellite stations so I never have change my zip code. When I want locals, I raise the mast and have the Dish receiver re-scan OTA antenna. FWIW

I average an actual 25 MPG on many trips. Sometimes a little more depending on if I'm in a hurry moving to the next campground, vs staying in one spot for a while. Toad gets 44, coach 6 ... So average 25. 😉. A bit more when I drive the toad around locally more.

Looking at the three posted pictures of main and subpanel, I see inverter L1 and Inverter L2 on the main to the inverter, and on the sub panel inverter L1 and Inverter L2 from the inverter....all with 30 amp single breakers perhaps for a MS2812. Agreed, your mileage may vary, but was thinking specifically about pics in this thread.

Ivan, it would appear the factory would have had two A/Cs, Washer, Microwave/oven, and Aqua Hot all on one leg along with the kitchen plugs, etc... IMHO not well balanced.

As a load balance question, I wonder what the other subpanel has for the microwave/oven - on leg 1 or 2? Or if an electric stove top replaced a gas one and comes into play from that other inverter subpanel on which leg? In my specific case, I added a 20A single pole double throw switch and changed one breaker into dual 20A so I could "dynamically" move one A/C from one leg to the other (throw correct breaker and toggle) for load balancing. I.e. so when it was hot and all three A/Cs were in heavy use and something is baking in the convection oven that I could achieve a better 50-50 load rather than 2 A/Cs and oven on the same leg drawing 44-46A and the other leg 16-17A. Other load situations I consider are bulk charging the bats with heavy A/C use. BTW, I kept the factory intellitec load share setup for an A/C and the washer. However the idea of rewiring that such that the 20A line goes only to the A/C and taking the 15a block heat line to the intellitec box to power the washer and then back to the block heat outlet is interesting especially since the wirings near the rear closet/washer-dryer stack (not combo)/ and engine bay block heat are in fairly close proximity back there. That might make me and DW happier when she's doing a bunch of laundry on a hot day when that one A/C might be shed because the washer is simply on. The washer would be happy on a 15a line - I've never seen it draw anything near that even on a fast spin start up. I have no "kitchen switch", is that a manual version of the intellitec box I have behind my washer? Anyway, good food for thought.

Just a final update on how I would do it again after all my frustrations. Slide retracted all the way in (cylinders are fully extended) then just a tap back out to lessen the tension on the chain. Open Hydraulic pressure release nuts at the manifold (no more than 4 1/2 turns ... I could hear pressure bleed off about 3 1/2 turns.) Loosen adjustment nuts on the bottom of the cylinder so there is some up/down play in the cylinder/chain. Unhook the top of the chain from the mechanism. I used two open end wrenches to grab the bolt & nut between the arms. (Later, after the bolt was removed I re-drilled the outside hole with a 5/8 drill wobbling a little as 11/16 might have been a better fit for my socket during reassembly. Still used the open end on the nut between the arms.) (Making sure you bled off the pressure earlier.) Reverse the hydraulic line so "slide in" will retract that one cylinder capping off the other line and container to catch expelled fluid. Close pressure release nuts, Move "slide in". This cylinder you are working on thinks slide is going out and retracts (shortening piston extension) and catching fluid onto a jar. Other cylinder seems fine being already fully extended for "slide in". This brings the detached chain toward the 90° bend so keep an eye on it and stop it where you can still get a good grip on the upper end and while the piston has retracted more than the distance between bottom of the cylinder and the top of the stiffening brace down there. Release hydraulic pressure nuts, unhook all hydraulic lines to this cylinder, cap off lines, completely remove adjusting bolt. Grab the chain and bottom of the cylinder and slide it all up so the bottom of the cylinder can clear that bottom stiffening brace. Now pull bottom of cylinder out past the brace and out of the C retainer on the wall. Now at about 30° or more angle from the wall the tension on the chain/cylinder pins is removed and can be more easily extracted. That manufactured bend in the chain keeps so much tension on those pins when against the wall ... and no room to work in there... Or if able, first try just rotating & pulling the cylinder & chain completely through the 90° bend bracket. Reinstall new chain down the bend bracket. My experience was I could feed it down better than up I first tried with chain attached to the cylinder and feeding it up but couldn't push/pull/twist/wiggle just right. With the cylinder free at an angle you can easily get the pins in compensating for that natural bend in the chain. With chain attached to the cylinder and hanging free & loose, align upper chain to attach to the arm. Remember that spacer. In my case, it would easily stay wedged aligned with the chain holes without tape or anything else. Also remember I reamed out that arm hole a bit to fit a socket for reassembly. I still used an open end wrench on the nut ... I could hold the nut with my fingers while turning a nut driver on the bolt to get the threads started. Push cylinder back to the wall into the C retainer. Slide the cylinder-chain assembly back down into rough position past the stiffening brace. (The cylinder will extend without needing hydraulics whereas internal porting/brake prevents manual retraction. I guess that is why you can release the pressure in an emergency to manually push the slide in -- extending the piston -- and then hydraulic lock holds the slide in as the piston won't retract.) Reattach bolt to bottom of the cylinder. Reattach hydraulic lines to correct fittings. At this point I left the slide's pressure release nuts "released" and moved the generator in/out a few times. That seemed to allow some fluid movement in the slide lines without the slide moving. I don't know if it helped bleed the line or not, but I didn't have to do the HWH bleed procedure. Do insure adequate fluid level in the reservoir. Satisfied I had no hydraulic leaks, I manually moved and measured for equal distance for slide from the coach side. Tightened up the adjustment bolt. Closed pressure release nuts. Moved the slide a couple inches out and in to recheck for parallel movement. Released hydraulic pressure and moved adjustment bolt as necessary. Repeat until happy. Ran slide all the way out holding button for a few seconds, same with retraction. Repeat.The third sync cylinder seemed happy. Slide moved smoothly so I didn't feel it necessary to do any bleed procedure. For me, the key was reversing the one hydraulic line to retract the piston releasing bend tension on the chain by being able to pull the cylinder out from the wall.. The HWH manual did show how to bypass the sync cylinder to move just one cylinder, but I chose to not break those connections. As I had no carpet in the area to worry about, I wasn't so concerned with opening the lines and knew I was going to get some fluid on the wood even with plastic and towels. Although I bought two chains, the other one by the cabinets still looks okay so I ain't messing with it until I have to. Here's my old chain with 3 missing rollers, two next to each other in the retract position and one in the extended position. Also a picture of that bottom stiffening brace that gets in the way of cylinder removal. FWIW and YMMV

Related question for the group. Do you start your coach while plugged in, or do you disconnect from shore power first? Just curious as my Big Boy would normally be connecting both banks together while plugged in ( observing that the isolation relay led on RR box is lit even with ignition on). If I unplug from shore the led indicator goes out as I expect, and after cranking to start the CAT it stays out for a few seconds before coming on to indicate the alternator is now charging both banks (and Aladdin house display agrees). Anyway, my unproven theory is that when on shore power some of your cranking amps is always going through the Big Boy. Guess I should get DW to crank it sometime while on shore power as I watch that led. Seems to make sense in my mind that it actually takes detection of current from the alternator to sense a dual charging source (to disconnect) as I've run 300+ miles on the house generator only when the engine alternator gave up the ghost in the middle of nowhere. If it only detected switched ignition I'm thinking my chassis bats would have died during that drive with no alternator. BTW, I bought a Big Boy several years ago while I cleaned/tested the old one to carry it as a spare ... thinking I'd rather just swap them on a trip rather than cleaning it on a picnic table on the road. Every couple of years while at home base, I clean and reapply conducting anti oxidant internally "just because". An hour at home is worth preventing frustration on the road.

I finally got the cylinder out and new chain attached to the cylinder. Now it's a bear trying to feed that back up the bend. I'll give it a few more hours then maybe try unhooking the chain to feed it down from the top and trying to hook it up onto the cylinder. Would have to go off to hardware store for bolts/nylock nuts for that. New chain is very tight, almost like they set the axles too tight. Some rollers hard to turn. Almost might have been better to rebuild the old chain myself with new rollers and axles.

Hello guys Paul, Could you elaborate a little on the "However, I ended up removing the whole mechanism to fit the new chain." My mechanism is like this one AZ Pete did a video on, but at least it's my front chain. Not like the double chain version above. And my new chain is curved just like his.

Hi guys. I have some broken rollers in my HWH X room (front passenger side, AP27708) so ordered new chain RAP91695. Looks right. Got the old chain loose from the arm but how do you get the cylinder out to work on it where the chain attaches to the cylinder? I dropped the cylinder as low as it will go but old chain won't clear the 90 degree turn. Can't pull bottom of the cylinder out as either the lower bracket is in the way or if slide the cylinder up the top of the cylinder is cradled by a thick C retainer and won't come out. That C retainer holds the cylinder in the upright position in the channel on the wall. It didn't seem to want to pull out thru the C. Old chain has the rivited axle pins all the way. Only bolt is the top one in the arm. Pretty tight to work in there. Jim/Paul ... does this make sense from your experience? Hard to take a picture but could try if I'm not explaining my situation clearly. My '07 Patriot Thunder Winchester III is pretty close to yours. BTW, My new replacement chain has a slight arch but I'll see how to deal with that once I get the old chain off. Thinking if I had to I'd file the joints a bit to allow it to lay flatter. But first I need a little hint to get the old one off. Thanks in advance Al

In my case the short connection lines from the AH to the coach shown below started to leak, first the cold then a year later the hot. Plastic getting old, O-rings old, etc... It was gonna be a pain in the U-know to perfectly cut new pipes and put unions in those straight line connection points, so I cheated and used a longer standard braided hose from the HW store and made a gradual 360 degree loop. Been a couple years now, no change in perceived water volume/pressure. At least they were in an accessible location 🙂 ... only a backache, lost a little skin in the process, and a few choice words. BTW, exercised the mixing valve while I was there.

Henderson's in Oregon was mentioned and they do supply good alignment parts to Josam's in Florida and other shops. I do have their drag link. Another remote possibility could be the front axle got tweaked throwing off the caster. All Wheel in Redding CA also works with Henderson's parts but can also apply twists to the axle that Henderson's can't/won't do. They (as will Henderson) check rear to front tracking and most important they will do heavy work on RVs. Some heavy truck places won't touch an RV but do great work on a Pete. At least All Wheel is closer to Phoenix than Oregon or Florida. https://allwheelinc.com/ They do a lot of axle work and axle replacement. I have visited all three shops mentioned for various reasons. Hope to never need them again, but would go to any of the three if needed. Had a local truck shop work on the rig once, and they removed some shims to set it better "for freeway handling". After the fact, IMHO, that wasn't the right thing to do especially when I drove on some more heavily crowned two lane roads. My rig manuals explicitly said certain parameter settings that the local shop "knew better" from their heavy truck experience. Oh well, it's all better now and I won't go to that local heavy truck shop ever again. I think the height, center of gravity, air bag suspension, etc make the RV a different beast than a Pete. JMHO

For what its worth, I replaced mine with; https://www.ebay.com/itm/121358112687 I liked the specs better.

Since it has come up again, been round and round with TST on this with the well known TST reps that post on this forum who requested not to be mentioned by name. They (TST officials) would not stand behind the product and send equipment that functions, instead insisting that I must BUY a new display at a "discounted" price from them that was actually a HIGHER PRICE than one could purchase new from other online sources cheaper. At one time they might have sent functioning equipment, but as I got a little over two years of a usually "working" product before having the well known rep explain to me the design change that causes the failures, they wouldn't support the product as it was "time to buy an upgrade" in their eyes. You got lucky if you got support from TST. FWIW, YMMV, just my actual experience and facts Al

Your wet bay looks identical to my 07 Beaver PT (came off the Oregon line 09/06, so might have a lot in common). First thing I'd do is go into the Aladdin setup menu (I think the code is 1218, but on my way to Africa so can't verify anything for another 6 weeks). Calibrate the full and Empty raw sensor values. Mine were way off and they seem to drift a little over the months). I also recalibrated my gray and black tank raw values based on actually measuring water down the drain.... Next thing is I replaced that Top Hat solenoid with one that had better pressure specs including negative pressure so your tank won't be sucked dry if the city line is draining for an underground repair someplace... It was an industrial one from eBay, found the link , https://www.ebay.com/itm/121358112687 Thirdly I rearranged the inline check valve to be BETWEEN the auto fill solenoid T and pump pressurized T line. Reason being I leave my Auto fill ON and pump ON when the CG has low pressure. What happened the way the factory plumbed it was I'd be taking a shower with good pump pressure from the tank... Tank drops below 80%, solenoid open and pump pressure way higher than 20 psi city so the pump cycles water back into the tank via the fill line and my shower dropped to a trickle... FWIW. YMMV

On my '07 Beaver built 09/06 there are fuses in the RRB I've blown more than once accidentally grounding as I connect the toad (so now I make the last connection at the coach rather than having the umbilical hot as I feed it along the tow bar to the toad and the running lights were hot.) I'd also think carefully about running a brake controller from the tail lights especially if you like using the engine brake. Others may have differing opinions but when I'm going down a long grade with engine brake on (and my taillights are on) I'd rather not heat up the toad brakes until I actually press the service brake.

If I am considering upgrading 3 outlets in the coach, it would cost me about 28 AH a day from my battery bank. Is my math right? .035 (amps) x 3 (outlets) x 10 ( 12v to 120v) / 90% (Magnum inverter efficiency) x 24 (hours) = 28 AH. So consuming about 4 or 5 "realtime" amps from my solar charging amps on a sunny day? (Considering hours of daylight, solar converter efficiency, etc) The parasitic draw seems "expensive" so I must be thinking incorrectly somewhere but where? Voice enabled too? "Tea, Earl Grey, hot" 😉https://youtu.be/iaAT6-dY1QI

FWIW, I use a 1/2 inch adjustable house type regulator at the hydrant (connected to the hydrant via a braided 3' washing machine type hose, thus the regulator rests on the ground) so the occasional 120+ psi doesn't get to any white hose that may also be heating up and softening in the sun 🌞. I had thought about the convenience of a semi permanent wet bay installation but stick with using it as close to the hydrant as practical. YMMV

Any experience with the combo outlets with built in USB chargers? Such as: https://www.amazon.com/dp/product/B07668S975 I was leaning toward the A & C combo version rather than dual A nor dual C as we have both kind of wall warts now. I have depth room for a standard rework box so I can get rid of the mobile home type plug, but was wondering (and can't seem to find info) about parasite draw with nothing plugged in when we are boondocking. By the way, I have a Magnum PSW inverter, and it's always on 24x7x365 due to residential fridge and I like to record certain satellite shows. I was thinking about three, one by couch, one by table, and one by the rear office desk. On the dash I have a 12v ignition switched dual USB A port for dash cam and TPMS.

I have a very similar problem. The rear monitor attempts to show something but the signal is too weak to lock the horizontal/vertical scroll. Looks like a RCA adapter on a coax cable under the bed to a Kenwood interface box. Plugged another monitor (car DVD headrest monitor) under the bed as a test and same results. On the dash Aladdin box, found video outputs 1 and 4 connected ... swapped no change (1 appears to be driver monitor as unplugging that kills front monitor, unplugging #4 and rear signal totally disappeared. Traced RCA under dash to a well taped up coax adapter. I'm thinking coax went bad someplace as the slide moves in and out, so will try a temp cable down the hallway next week ... Attached picture of my Aladdin box on the dash. Yellow goes to driver monitor, blue to rear. And picture of weak signal my bedroom monitor. Some signal getting through as electric page is attempting to display something. Makes me think coax broke in a bend someplace.

Removed my question as another more appropriate thread was opened

Thanks all. 45 is good.

Question..How low can you set the Heat setting on the Micro Air? My old 5 button will go as low as 40 degrees but I typically set 45 when in short term winter storage. Reason I ask is because when I replaced my stick and brick house systems with new furnaces and digital thermostats, the new system only goes down to 55 whereas I used to set the old system in the house to 45 just in case the occasional extreme cold front came thru while absent. No use heating house at 55 when it might only drop to upper 40's ... and thus with the new system in the house I've used more energy in useless heating than necessary. So wondering about the Micro Air for the coach when it's time to replace all.... Get boards compatible with old 5 button so I can set a low temp, or keep boards that come with the new units and go with new thermostats. Electric but no WiFi in storage....

Mine was a big boy. Just removed the two bolts holding it together and carefully separated it paying close attention to the fine wires connecting the contact poles. Then just scrubbed it (poles and circular disk) with a wire grinder and fine sandpaper. After my copper looked pretty I reassembled and tested.

The big boy solenoid internal contacts need polishing. Solenoid feel warm means it's engaging but contacts to corroded to conduct. Fairly easy to fix. I replaced mine, and then took apart the old one cleaning the copper contract points and carry that old as a spare. Yes, symptoms: Chassis not charging on shore power & house not charging from alternator & battery boost not helping start engine as chassis parasitic loads drag them down. When it clicks to engage the voltages are not the same on both sides of the big lugs....and it should be the same...