millionroy

Thank you, you should apologize. Macrotrends = When you can't dazzle them with your brilliance, baffle 'em with your bull**** Keep repeating it until you believe it. Just my opinion! C'est la vie

1984 came and went and we didn't believe Orwell. Can't believe despite Orwell and Ayn Rand warning us, that's where we are today. Thank goodness for the politicians, bureaucrats , academia, the military industrial complex and now the pharmaceutical industrial complex and the "elites" taking care of us! Glad I'm 81 years old and still able to do things MY WAY. Please believe it now. Happy and fortunate my wife and I can still live our life the way we want. No point in saving for a rainy day, enjoy while you can.

Thanks Bob. I've been overthinking this and trying to decide whether I want to do a TPMS. I'm having Borg valve stems put on tomorrow, thanks to a recommendation on this forum. This will ease checking pressures before I drive and eliminate the flexible extensions. I will run the recommended pressures on the chassis tag by the front seat. We do get wrapped around the axle sometimes!!

What a pain to get to. I wound up cutting a hole in the thin wall of the cabinetry under and to the left of the sink. Was barely able to cover a partial tear of the corrugated flexible (???) white line with a 4X3 piece of black Flexseal tape. Will see how long that lasts. Fortunately found a mobile RV repair fellow right after I fixed my jerry rig. At least I know where it is now and why I don't wish to attempt replacement!

Thanks for the update. Really appreciate it.

Thanks Bob. Appreciate your input on this. Roy

I still feel like a neophyte regarding tires, pressures, et al even after nearly 20 years of RV'ing. Our first RV was a 1996 Rexhall Rexair 37' with a tag axle and I think 19.5 tires. During our 15 years with it we incurred two blowouts, both on the rear, one inside dually and one tag. I drove it like a pickup rarely checking tire pressures, (tread was good!!), duh. Bought a 2001 HR Endeavor in October 2017 and what an education since then. Overheating (undiagnosed by anyone until while looking for the coolant filter, I discovered a big hole in the muffler which sent exhaust directly up to the fan and radiator), jack problems, toilet problems, et al. Have read a number of posts on this forum regarding tire pressures recommended based on weight per wheel. I am curious as to how much deviation there is in those pressures per wheel. I have been inflating the steering tires to 100 pounds and the duals to 110 pounds. Is this problematic? What TPMS do you folks recommend? Like so many things, everyone has the best! This post was initiated because my passenger inside dually has a slow leak. I have valve extenders on the rear tires. These tires are new Toyos (May 21) which are driven on weekly. Intent on wearing it out long before I check out!!

Thanks Bret. Not sure what kind of latch you're looking for but I found a couple of sources online and bought what I needed. Ebay and E-trailer. I just googled cargo bay door latch 2001 Holiday Rambler Roy

Thanks to all for the info. Will pass it on to my repair guy. Roy

Can someone tell me what the outermost covering of the baggage compartment door on a 2001 HR Endeavor is made of, the thickness and where I might buy a sheet of that material. Planning on cutting out most of the door except for a margin of about 2 inches around the perimeter and then splicing in a new piece of that material. [Got a little too close to a pole]

Just finished a short trip from Pisgah Forest, NC to Fort Worth, TX returning home via Oklahoma City in a total of 13 days. We've usually made a habit of limiting a days travel to 250 miles all during daylight hours. Got in a hurry trying to make it home before New Years eve. Drove 225 miles the first day and called it a day to replace water separator fuel filter. Drove 487 miles the next day with a couple of rest area "power naps". New Years eve day another 287 miles arriving home before dark. I have been totally exhausted since getting home. I am in good health (hike 15 to 20 miles per week). Could it be too many birthdays? Just curious how far others in this forum travel per day. For the time being, we've elected to drive no more than 200-250 miles per day. I am the only driver with the wife, dogs and cat the only passengers.

Fortunately for me, I've never owned a plane or a boat. I got into enough trouble with things with wheels that occasionally left the ground! At my tender age (circa 1940) I still enjoy treating dogs and cats a couple of days a week! Roy Million 2001 HR Endeavor 40' 2003 Honda Element (which four wheeled over Medano Pass, CO to the Great Sand Dunes) and still flat towing great Wife Elaine, Lab Mix Katy, Border Collie Bode and Black Cat Miss Lilly

I had to remove about 10 screws from the periphery of the dash and pull the dash out a little. There were two flashers staring up at me. I turned on the hazard lights and then the directional to isolate which was which. Found a Grote Electronic Flasher 44690 at my local Advanced Auto Parts and it worked great.

Had to remove dash to find relay (flasher) and found two, Grote Electronic Flasher 44690. One for hazard lights and the other for the flasher. Swapped them and volah, we have directionals. On my way to Advance Auto Parts in Asheville to pick up a new 44690. Thanks all. Roy

Thank you. I will check that. My flashers are working fine. My high/low beam is working, but dash high beam light doesn't work. Neither directional or the dash indicator are working. I know the dash bulbs are fine because they're bright and normal when flashers are on.

Further information--Hazard lights are working perfectly, clicking noise working on both hazards and directionals, but no lights from directionals anywhere.

Just returned from a short trip and just as we got home, noticed neither turn signal was working, but were still clicking as they normally do. Brake lights ok. Neither turn signal on RV or towed are working to include the dashboard turn signal indicator. Since I am electrically challenged, hoping someone here can point me in the right direction. 2001 HR Endeavor w/ 2003 Honda Element. Followup on coolant system capacity, after draining, flushing it took 10.5 gallons of Peak Final Charge and still don't know how much was still in the engine block. Thanks.

8.3 liter isc on the top of the plastic tank to the left of the radiator /CSC . There are two 90 degree brass fittings on the top of the plastic tank. I can't believe how many different issues I've encountered with "gotta have a diesel"

I would check the return lines to the expansion tank. I have been down that road with a $600 expansion tank and the "technicians" failed to recognize and replace those lines which return to the top of the tank.

Recently discovered my overheating 2001 HR 330 ISC had a large hole on the medial (inside) side of the muffler. Downshifting only made it worse because of course the exhaust was directed directly toward the fan where it was immediately blown into the shroud through the radiator. Replaced the muffler, drove it up a 3-4 mile incline and never hit 200F. If not that, the next thing would be cleaning the radiator. I use Extreme Simple Green. Good luck.

Thank you! I'll post here after this happens, with my rear mount radiator with CAC above it.

Unfortunately no. I have learned a lot more, but have decided to have my RV guy do it. He owns a 2001 Holiday Rambler like ours, and he couldn't tell me! Sounds like it will take several flushes and nearly impossible to drain the engine block. Plan on a final flush with deionized water, filling it with Peak Final Charge 50/50 and maybe then I will know. Will check with refractometer afterward to be sure we're protected down to 0 F which will be fine for this area (Western NC, elevation about 2300 feet.) Thanks for asking.

Wow, I just bought 15 gallons of Peak Final Charge from Auto Zone for for $17.26 a gallon, with the understanding I can return the unused. Have it in hand along with a non sca filter and new thermostat. Have an appointment Tuesday to have a new muffler installed and am anxious to see if that alleviates my overheating problem. The hole in the muffler was aimed directly at the bottom of the fan and I had been wondering why the engine cover in the closet was turning black esp on the side to the rear. Will still do the cooling system, but am anxious to see if the muffler replacement improves cooling. I really expect it will make a significant difference. The last time I took it out, coming up a long grade, I downshifted to keep my RPM at 2,000 and it didn't help at all. I was only directing more hot exhaust to my radiator!!!

Just found a local diesel mechanic who will look at this next week. Incidentally while looking around under the engine area today, I noticed a large hole in the muffler which I hadn't seen before. The hole is on the medial side of the muffler which means I have been blowing some exhaust directly toward the bottom of the fan which of course would then be blown through the radiator. This may not be my only problem, but common sense tells me this is certainly contributory. Roy

Thank everyone for their help and warnings. Since I can't get it serviced for another month, and the Fleetguard Dipsticks indicate I am protected to -60F, I plan on draining about 5 gallons from the system and diluting the remaining coolant with distilled water, as well as changing the filter which was last done 2 1/2 years ago. I think I have an excessive concentration of coolant. Does anyone know of any potential problems doing this?