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Are the new ones LED? The replacement I bought couple years ago is not LED... Cheers, Walter

I just cycled my fan through lo/med/high a few times. The various speeds are not night&day different. I'd be hard pressed to hear the difference between lo and med. Going from med to high is a bit more noticeable. Then the step from high back down to low is pretty easy to hear. Cheers, Walter

Hey Granville... How is the Duo-Therm working out? I'm really wishing I had tried it out... Did I mention how much I hate the stupid CCC2 scheduling feature??? On my home thermostat, I have a temperature setpoints for heating, and a setpoints for cooling. And I can easily over-ride the scheduled temperature by just pushing a temp up/down button, knowing it will return to the scheduled setpoint at the next schedule time. When I put the home thermostat into heating mode, it runs the heating program. When I put the system in cooling mode, it runs the cooling program. Very intuitive. The stupid CCC2 scheduling feature has ONE program. To change from a heating program to a cooling program one must reprogram the schedule. The scheduled temperature setpoints CANNOT be temporarily over-ridden. In order to change the setpoint manually, you have to reprogram the schedule or take it out of schedule mode (and then remember to put it back in schedule mode later...). To put the system into schedule mode, you press the schedule button not once, not twice, but THREE times. 1st press, to shows/edit the first schedule period, 2nd press to show/edit the other schedule period, then the 3rd press actually enables the schedule. And to take the system out of schedule mode, you have to hold the schedule button for several seconds until "PROG1" stops flashing and goes away. I'm slowly getting used to this, but I think they could have made it a lot better and more intuitive. Cheers, Walter

Essex uses a generic keyless entry module in conjunction with their keypad module. Couple years ago when I replaced mine, they were supplying one by Avital, which was also available separately on Amazon. Replacing the entire wireless module is pretty simple . I detailed the install here https://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/essex-1603-keypad-and-wireless-replacement-330319.html Cheers Walter

This document is from March 2019 and labeled as "Dometic CCC 2 LCD SZ 3314850.000 Electronic ADB Brisk Air Penguin HP" https://documents.dometic.com/?object_id=54637 I downloaded it thinking it was installation instructions for the CCC2 specifically, but it's a full AC unit install manual. See pp 12-14 for instructions on the power connector. I'm not sure if this is now standard, but it's in their installation manual. Cheers, Walter

Did you get printed instructions? I did not get any printed instructions with the unit, and thought the connector (if supplied) might have been in a bag with the instructions. I reached out to dometic to ask if I should have received printed instructions and the connector. They wouldn’t even answer the question... and told me to contact a distributor for support 😟

The 651816HXX1C0-01 that I ordered from adventurerv.net in August came with the self contained power connector attached. Installation of the SCPC onto the romex was covered in the current dometic installation document, but there was no mating connector supplied with the unit and there's no mention in there of what kind of plug you need.. I'm not sure if that's just the way they ship them now...

No. On the Molex plug part he’s talking about the 12v and furnace connections. But he's mainly asking about a mobile home power connector that comes preinstalled on the new AC power cable. The mobile home connector is classified as a junction box; used inside the wall to connect pre-wired mobile home wall sections. You could cut it off and splice in a regular junction box, or buy the mating plug. It’s not easy to figure out what’s needed... I spell out the exact part number in this thread: Cheers Walter

I’ve got similar panels. I think the size works really well for my roof layout. There’s a roof drawing on the solar panel mounting thread that shows how mine are laid out. If your dynasty roof is like mine, two of those panels tuck in real nice on the centerline between the kitchen vent and rear AC Cheers Walter

I ruled those out pretty quickly. Not sure I’ll tilt the panels often, but I want the option. Also seems like leaves and dirt would get trapped underneath. So far so good...After a year, my home made brackets are still adhered well.

Yeah. There must have been some kind of miscommunication. Maybe the tech was talking about the inverter's internal shunt, which only sees current in/out of the inverter. The Magnum BMK is really just like any other battery monitor w/shunt, except it uses the Magnum remote display as the battery monitor display (rather than a dedicated display unit). The BMK is measuring batt voltage at its +/- input terminals and it's measuring net current across the shunt in the battery negative cable. There's no way it could differentiate between inverter current and any other currents in/out of the battery. Depending on your configuration, it could be easier or harder to install a 3rd party battery monitor. The Magnum BMK requires a phone cable between the inverter and the BMK, twisted pair from the BMK to the shunt (<6ft) and +/- 12v to the BMK. I think most 3rd party bat monitors have a circuit board on the shunt and then run a data cable from there to the display. In my case, running a new data cable from the battery monitor to the console where I want the display head is very difficult, so sending battery monitor data over the existing inverter display cable was preferable. But if it were straightforward to run a new cable to my console, I think I'd rather have a 3d party bat monitor. The Simarine that rvwithtito has is pricey... but looks really nice IMO. Like Bob said, using Magnum's battery monitor will let you trigger AGS from calculated SOC, rather than voltage, but otherwise the magnum BMK is just like anybody else's bat monitor, except it appears as another menu option amongst the other Magnum display menus. All things being equal, I would prefer a dedicated display for the battery monitor and Bluetooth capability, and for those reasons, I would lean toward 3rd party if I were doing it again. I've also experienced a couple functional limitations with the Magnum BMK that I'm not happy about, but those are largely due to the unusual way I have it installed and might not affect 90% of installations. All that being said... for troubleshooting, I'd just get a DC clamp meter and that'll tell you what you need to know about current. For the purpose of determining battery health, you can just measure steady-state current and calculate amp-hours. Charge the batteries fully, turn off the charger and let the batteries rest with no loads and verify that your resting voltage is >12.7. Turn on a constant load and measure the current. See how long it takes to draw the voltage down from >12.7 to about <12v. Multiply Amps x Hrs and compare that result to the 800 AH or whatever those eight batteries should be capable of providing. DC clamp meters are great for troubleshooting, but they are expensive. Could also use a cheap $30 Drok battery monitor from amazon. Cheers, Walter

Thanks. That does sound similar. I can’t see staples involved with the side cabinets directly, but my center tv cabinet had been removed in the past and I can see where it was stapled into that piece. That’s more disassembly than I’m willing to take on at this point...I think I’ll try working around it...

I kind of wish I’d tried those rather than the CCC. Too late now I’ve cut the hole for ccc... The display is easy to read now... But it really irks me that dometic: a- makes a new version of the product that is twice the size of the old model (sucks if your thermostat is in a narrow spot) b- has such a limited and IMO virtually useless scheduling feature (one schedule, as opposed to one for heating and one for cooling) c- has a stupid automatic heat-cool function with only one temperature set point. (I don’t want to cool at 78 and then immediately switch on the heat if it gets cloudy and the temp drops to 76) d- requires a big honking hole to be cut for installation (there’s a big round protrusion coming out the back)

Ok... at 10 amps you should get about 80 hours out of the batteries? It doesn’t add up Let’s round up the current and say you have a 20 amp drain and do the math on that load. Your 8 GC batteries should have at least 800 amp-hours capacity. How many hours should you get out of them at a constant 20 amps??? A heck of a lot more than 4-5 hours... Either you’re overlooking a BIG electrical load or your batteries are bad. Either way, it’ll be hard to diagnose without directly measuring current at the battery. Cheers Walter

Something doesn’t add up. You’re saying you’ve got a 4-5 amp current, right? But you’re also saying the batteries drain down in 4-5 HOURS??? if you have 8 golf cart batteries, they should sustain a 5a current for 5 DAYS, not 5 hours I still think your batteries are bad. Cheers Walter

David, How is the side cabinet attached? I'm not seeing obvious fasteners. Does the curtain track /panel need to come down for access? It would be nice to have that cabinet out, but if the other panels need to come out I'll just work around it. I dug into it this evening and the rot is pretty localized. There's some delaminated plywood in the adjacent section, but it's not rotted. The roof 'ribs' under the fiberglass need to be held up at the end, but they're in good shape. I fixed the fiberglass cap seam months ago so everything has been dry for a good while. Figure I'll attach some kind of bracket to the outer steel frame, and use that to support the the ribs, then build up a new section of foam/plywood. Maybe build up the 1-1/2" from thinner layers secured up through the ribs? Maybe just rebuild that section with foam. The plywood doesn't seem to be supporting anything. Not sure why they used the plywood there, unless the TV cabinet was originally hung from it. The section behind this is 1-1/2" of foam instead of 3/4" foam and 3/4" ply and seems to be doing a similar function. I'm thinking I'll get the spar ends supported against the steel, fill the gaps between them with spray foam, and fasten the rest of the layers up into the spars. Walter

"6 hours to do new vinyl...That is the easiest / fastest part of the job" Sure, If it was ME doing the vinyl I can see it taking several hours. But I've seen automotive trim shops knock out this kind of work in minutes. Presumably somebody that knows what they are doing would have that foam and vinyl glued up in short order. If it'll really cost what they say... I'll most certainly wind up doing it myself. Cheers, Walter

Thanks. The pictures are very helpful. Ugh. Hopefully it's not just naïve optimism, but I don't think the extent of it is nearly that bad. It won't be fun either way... My area up front is a little different. The foam board ends just forward of that seam and then there's 3/4" plywood toward the front of the seam under the front cap joint (with another layer of foam on top of the plywood). That's the rotted part. Apparently the junction of the ply and foam stopped water from migrating any farther back along the headliner. So I'm going to expose only what absolutely needs to be replaced and I'll try real hard not to find any damage that's not already visible! I'm wishing I'd tackled same time as the fiberglass work above it. I used spray foam to fill the void under the cap/roof seam and create a surface to lay the fiberglass work on. I suspect a lot of that foam will need to be removed now to make room for the plywood repair.... Walter

Thanks . Just for clarity, I did not ask them for an estimate to repair the water damage. The shop estimate is only to install new foam/vinyl after I do the rot repair. Cheers, Walter

Yes, the cabinets were installed after the headliner. I was planning on just tucking 1/2" of vinyl back in above the cabinet edge. I'll ask for clarification. Maybe they are planning to remove the cabinets. I suppose that would be the more 'right' way to do it... Thanks, Walter

Getting closer... Batteries have been shipped. This is my first order on Alibaba. If anybody is curious, here's the way it works. You enter into a contract with supplier, supplier is paid. Alibaba then tracks the order progress and can refund buyer if the order doesn't arrive as agreed or doesn't conform to the contract. In the negotiations, I had to ask for them to update the contract terms to include specifics on the custom battery capacity, dimensions and layout. They started the order based on their 200ah listing item with different dimensions and Anderson connectors. Upon request, they created a new listing and then assigned that to the contract. Communication responses are prompt, but it's apparent that their English is just slightly better than my Chinese...

Hi all, I've got one section of headliner that's water damaged above the driver seat. I've already addressed the fiberglass cracks at the roof/cap junction and now I'm working on the underside. There's a big area of rotted plywood above the driver seat that will be a lot of fun to fix... After cutting out and repairing the rot and I'll need to replace the foam and white vinyl. I sent pictures of this to a nearby custom RV shop for an estimate and they came back with 6-8 hours of labor to install the foam on my prepared surface after I'm done with the wood repair. This estimate doesn't make sense to me. The vinyl and 3/8" foam is supplied on a roll and then installed overhead with contact adhesive, right? Just like an automotive headliner? I can't imagine there's more than 2 hrs work in this. Am I missing something? Thanks, Walter

I think you could get four 200 AH cells into a case the size of a golf cart battery. Or the case could be much bigger to accommodate 8 cells (~360mmx400mm?). As long as you don't mind the bigger/heavier battery... Lots of options.

The boxes can be customized. I think their default box is 400mm long, but I need it a bit shorter. Asked for box dimensions 360mm (l)x 200mm(w)x 250mm(h) and they agreed to that. They normally use Anderson connectors coming out the top, but I specified side terminals. Cheers Walter

$643 each. Total cost for two batteries including shipping is $1519. Ordered from Shenzhen Xuba. I haven't found anybody with experience with their assembled batteries, but a lot of folks on diysolarforums have purchased the 272/280 AH cells from them and reported good service. They'll customize them any way you want. I'll take them apart when they arrive and post some pictures inside. Cheers, Walter