wamcneil

I'm pretty sure you just need a standard board out of a penguin. The presence of heat pump and other options should just be dip switch settings. The circuit board has terminals for the compressor, fan and a few other things. It's not something that's highly specialized or sophisticated. Have you checked ebay? I've got a non-functional penguin heat pump i could take the board off of.

Yeah, dometic doesn’t provide support… My new AC came with one half of a modular connector and I was having trouble finding the other half so I called to ask if I should have received the other half, and if not maybe give me a part number??? I did get someone on the phone. The answer was “Sorry. Call your reseller. We don’t answer questions “. While I haven’t actually changed a board, I have compared the boards in my original penguin to my new penguin II. The new penguin II has an ambient temperature sensor that the older ACs don’t have. Otherwise looks to me like the connections to the circuit board are all the same. So unless dometic changed the default mode on the reversing valve, I think the boards are all interchangeable. Cheers Walter

Are you serious? I’m pretty sure having to pull it twice is not working as designed, and probably means that if your latch goes any farther out of adjustment you won’t be able to open the door

I think the circled item is a circuit breaker. The latching relays aren’t meant to be constantly energized. It gets a momentary signal from the switch and I think it works life a big clicker in a ballpoint pen. Click on, click off. The purpose of that dangling little circuit board is to interrupt signal from the switch in case it stays on. So the solenoid won’t heat up. I wonder if their hacked paper-clip bypass finally killed the coil and that’s why it stopped working. Edit: oh, wait. I think that bare wire is actually supposed to be there! Now I’m curious I’ll look at mine later. There are multiple variations of that KIB latching relays. Some have the protection circuit board, others not. II think maybe the relay failed and was replaced with an unprotected version and they moved the protection board over. Where does the red wire go that leaves that dangling circuit board? I think it should go to the fuse and the protected version doesn’t have a bare wire there. Like the picture on this page: https://rvpartshop.ca/product/sanitation/51561-kib-enterprises-latching-relay-lr9806cbip.html Cheers Walter

At first I didn’t think I would be able to contribute to this thread but that last post triggered a memory. I would be in the motorhome and my wife would approach the door, I would hear the keypad beeping, lock solenoid click and then she would come on in. After hearing this a bunch of times I asked her why she always used the keypad when the door was unlocked. She said ‘I don’t know, I try the door, and it’s always locked. I was going to ask you why you always lock the door.’ When we got the coach, the door latch developed an issue where if you pulled on the latch too soft or too hard, it would not open. But it would open consistently on the 2nd try. The latch rods needed adjustment. I learned to flip the handle just right and it usually wasn’t a problem for me, but my wife never tried pulling it a 2nd time and always assumed it was locked. So she hit the keypad after her first attempt and then the door always opened after that. Any chance your door isn’t actually locking? If you’re inside the door and close it, does the horizontal sliding loch go ‘thunk’ and move to the locked position? Cheers Walter

If you can access that side of the inverter , it’s pretty easy to disconnect the AGS wiring. It’s just 4 wires in a terminal block under the cover plate. I just ran with AGS disconnected till I eventually replaced the inverter. Picture: Trace Generator Start Wiring.pdf

Is this the xantrex rv2012 inverter? I had a similar problem that turned out to be the inverter’s AGS shutting down the generator. Sporadically at first and then eventually becoming pretty consistent. In the onan troubleshooting guide, it basically says ‘turn off the main breaker on the generator and if the problem goes away, your issue is outside of the generator’. My inverter apparently lost its mind and began shutting down the generator for me. I had a trouble code stating low AC voltage that made it even more confusing. Turns out my trouble code was not relevant; the generator stores the last trouble code and will recall the old code, even if there is no current error condition. So I spent a lot of time trying to figure out how the ECU could be flagging low voltage when my meter was very clearly indicating no low voltage condition. I isolated the condition by shutting off the main breaker on the generator. Then further isolated it by turning on the main breaker and turning off the two breakers feeding the inverter. Cheers Walter

I hope yours turns out to be that simple! I called them when mine acted up and those were the instructions they gave me too… 😕 Apparently they had a bunch of current limiter failures… but there are other failure points. cheers Walter

Are you getting voltage on the motor leads? There are two little relays soldered onto the the control board, one for motor extend and one for retract. One of mine was sketchy and I could hear it click when I hit the button, but the motor would often fail to retract. I could verify 125v going to the relays, but no voltage to the motor output when the relay clicked. cheers Walter

Dometic sells a retrofit board for the new AC that makes it work with the old CCC. Save the normal board and then change the thermostat when you replace the other AC. Cheers, Walter

I seriously doubt that could ever work. The thermostat is connected to the first AC, and then there's a data cable from the first AC (zone1) to the 2nd AC (Zone2). So for the thermostat to control both old and new ACs, it'd need to speak two languages down the same wire.

Thanks for bringing up that special case. If I had that configuration and replaced the ACs with new CCC2s, it would probably take me a good long while to figure it out for myself. I would never have guessed that Monaco would take a circuit board out of an air conditioner and bury it in the wall to control an aqua hot zone 🧐 Cheers Walter

I think that’s true with two ACs and three aqua hot zones. In that case you need an AC board to control an AH zone where there’s no 3rd rooftop AC to do the job. But I’m not sure the AH inherently requires an external control board. Normally it’s just a couple wires connected to the rooftop AC and the AH acts just like a furnace. Cheers Walter

The blower motor is mounted on rubber isolators. When these collapse it can allow contact. Kits are available; I bought one several months ago. I'm sure there's nothing special about the rubber bushings and I'd bet they have similar in stock at mcmaster carr. Cheers Walter

If I were doing it again, I'd probably get microair instead of CCC2. The CCC2 is a huge improvement over CCC in terms of visibility. And it looks nicer. Which is a good thing... because at 6" wide there's a whole lot more of it to look at... 😲 But in terms of new functionality I don't think it's worth the big honking hole I had to cut in the wall to mount it. Cheers, Walter

The dip switches are pretty straightforward. Don’t let that simple task determine your choice of thermostat. Cheers Walter

The overcurrent box is supposed to sense an increase in current when the awning comes all the way in and stops. The current jumps up and the current limiter interrupts the power and then resets itself. Presumably it would do the same thing extending, but it hits the limit switch and the motor stops itself, so there’s no current surge in that direction. The control board has an extend relay and a retract relay. A failed extend relay would explain your problem. You can jumper the motor and get it to extend, right? If that’s the case, it’s not a motor problem. If you hear the extend relay click when you hit the button, and there’s no power going to the motor, chances are that’s the problem. The relays are hard to find. I found some on eBay, shipped from China. cheers Walter

I had a similar issue but mine would go out, not in. Turned out to be a bad relay on the control board. cheers Walter

I might do that. Changing the filter inside the housing is a big messy PITA. And I’d sure like to have some visibility into the generator fuel supply Cheers Walter

I had a problem where my xantrex inverter lost its marbles and was shutting down the generator a few seconds after the transfer switch engaged. Almost bought a generator ecu board before I figured it out. Couple ways to try and rule this out: Onan troubleshooting guide says turn off the main breaker on the generator. If this solves your problem the issue is something outside the generator. Next, turn the gem main breaker back on and turn off the two breakers feeding the inverter inputs. If this solves your problem it’s probably the inverter. cheers Walter

Thanks. It has worked out pretty well. With each mount having 6 sq in of adhesive, the paint shouldn't be under a lot of stress. If it's in descent shape, I'd be inclined to scrub the surface real good to remove any chalk and leave it. If you've got areas that are peeling, then by all means, sand it back to bare AL. One of these days soon I'll cover the brackets with eternabond tape and calk around the end to protect the VHB... These are the metric thumbscrews I bought to supplement the ones supplied in the renology kits: Amazon.com: FarBoat 4Pcs Threaded Knurled M8x40mm Long Stud Thumbscrew Screw Knob Stainless Steel with Black Plastic Plum Blossom Six-Pointed Star Head Screw Grip Knob: Home Improvement

Here's my old thread on the subject:

If the paint is solid, it'll be stuck to the AL very firmly and will be a great base for the adhesive. Just scrub it real good with a fine scotchbrite pad to remove any oxidation. If the paint isn't in good shape, remove it stick the VHB to bare AL. There are many varieties of VHB. I can't remember if it was on here or IRV2 where I listed the appropriate types of VHB. The have soft, medium and firm tape, thick tape/thin tape and several varieties of adhesive for different applications. Cheers, Walter

3m VHB does a great job with no drilling. I bought 1/16” 2” aluminum angle and cut 3” lengths for mounting feet. Each one has 6 square inches of VHB tape. Very secure. The am solar mounts have 2 square inches and claim they’ve never had a problem cheers Walter

Ha! Welcome to the club. Learning about diesel cooling systems is just the start of our hazing ritual. Just wait till you see the wiring diagrams...