pwhittle

Here is an original Dometic valve.

https://marinesan.com/water-valve-kit/

Paul

I have printed some things off Thingiverse, to include the stubby M18 blower nozzle above.

Most things I model with a pair of digital calipers in OpenSCAD, a free 3D design software. Then I use Cura, another free application, to convert the model into the commands for the 3D printer taking into account the printer capabilities, the material being used, and about 100 other options.

13 hours ago, Scotty Hutto said:

I created a new section in the Downloads section to upload STL files of your 3D creations for Monaco coaches (or any STL file, really)   that you would like to share with other Monacoers members.

Once we get home and can access my PC I’ll upload some of my files.

Great idea Scotty,

I uploaded the step cover cushion block to the new section.

All,

If you want something that is uploaded to that section, you can download the .stl file and print it yourself, or submit it to a commercial site for printing.

If you decide to ask a friend to print it, remember that they have expenses in setting up their systems to be able to print, and then the cost of consumables to include the filament to print it, the print surfaces, and the time to run and monitor the print.

Another member asked if I could print the support for the step cover and sent me a picture of his failed piece.

Our 2005 Signature had the same part, and it was broken the same way as the other member’s, so I modeled the replacement, but printed it in 100% infill ABS to improve the design and make it more durable.

Non-Monaco, but a couple of parts I printed for friends.

This is for the tail light sequencer for a 60’s Shelby Mustang a friend is restoring. It holds the circuit board and hangs in the trunk.

It is dimensionally the same, but the design with the small clips to hold the two halves together was not durable in the original design, and is not in my replacement.

I had to print each half in two pieces and glue them together due to overhangs.

A friend has a Palatov D2 sports car and runs PIAA LED headlights, and wanted a nacelle to clean up the rear of the flat backed lights.

I also was able to print in two colors for the replacement Aladdin joystick faceplates.

Paul

13 hours ago, jacwjames said:

I'll back up and say that the ambient air pressure doesn't have anything to the grid heat.  Sorry for sending you down that rabbit hole.

 

There is a sensor for the air temperature, 3408346  http://en.gasgoo.com/showroom/vowdo-auto/auto-products/2903727.html

 

That listing references OE Part number 3408345, which shows up on The Cummins site.

That part number is available from various sources, including Cummins, Amazon, and eBay for prices ranging from under $20 to $45 from Cummins.

Paul

4 hours ago, Hypoxia said:

I replaced the easy chain, the front one just behind the entry door.  Lots of space there, relatively speaking.  Instead of using the original 1/4" pins with snap rings I used a grade 5 bolt, 1/4" X 2 1/4" - 20 & locknut on the top hydraulic cylinder shaft hole and a 1/4" X 1 3/8" Clevis pin & cotter pin on the lower hydraulic cylinder shaft hole.  Those holes are about 1 1/2" apart.  The chain is attached to the X-Slide with a 1/4" X 2 1/4" - 20 grade 5 bolt with a locknut. 

I had the slide all the way in and extended it out a couple of inches to allow some hydraulic cylinder movement.  There is a half inch bolt on the bottom of the cylinder with nuts which adjust the cylinder up & down with a 3/4" wrench.  I took a photo of the bolt so I could use the same number of threads for installation.  I lowered the cylinder enough to move it out of it's retaining bracket, that just made it easier to install the bolt through the chain and cylinder shaft.  I might use a clevis pin instead of a bolt on the next ones but I just had one on hand & there is enough clearance it shouldn't matter.

I'll work on the rear slide next when I have time.

You are a betteR man than me!

I struggled to get the chain installed with the mechanism on my bench. Did your chain from HWH have a bend in it or lay flat?

Paul

Glad to get your Opus running again! Life is a happier place with a working toilet.

Paul

Hi Daryl,

Not that I am aware of, but I would call Valvec and talk to them.

I suspect there is a connection in the arm as well as in the generator bay behind the mirror.

Paul

Hi Mike,

I am in Woodstock, GA.

Bring your coach up one day, and we will back it up for you. Im currently down at the Gathering in Seffner, but I’ll be home this week.

My cell phone is in my profile. 

Paul

Hi Doug,

PM with my phone number sent!

Paul

Hi Patrick,

A new control board is in its way to Russell!

Paul

And from the lead!

I print pretty much everything in ABS now.

Longest print I have done is 35 hrs. It was for a stubby nozzle for an Milwaukee M18 blower. Great for blowing off the motorhome or a car after washing it.

The Opus controller boards take about 8 hours each. Ignore the hairspray. Haven’t used that since I started using PEI print beds.

I have started printing in two colors, starting with the Aladdin joystick faceplate.

I also printed a couple of cup holders to hold my 20 oz Yeti next to the dash when driving.

I don’t have a picture of it right now.

I'll start new thread to discuss 3D Printing so we do not derail this one.

I recommend that you do extensive research outside this forum as there are many 3D printers available at many price points with different capabilities.

I bought a 3D printer to print the cases for the Magnum/Sealand/Dometic Opus replacement controller.

I chose the Creality Ender 3 as it was cheap and there was a lot of community support for it. The Ender 3 is known as a 3D printer that you need to spend time on to be able to print well. I did spend a lot of time getting to the point where I can print whatever I want, and it was a very steep learning curve.

Yes. The water runs on top of the slide, then down onto the floor.

Paul

Most connectors on Monaco’s are TE/AMP Mate-N-Lok connectors.

Post a picture of it and we can try to identify the part number.

Paul

Mouser shows the connector in stock

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TE-Connectivity-AMP/1-480704-0?qs=sGAEpiMZZMsyYdr3R27aVxI08ncWuDZS

Aren’t there replacement control boards available?

Paul

One reason I am using them is so the tire company can come to my house and fit new tires. They can’t balance on site, so the Centramatics take care of the balance.

Paul

@Mocephus ordered and installed the same part numbers Centramatics gave me.

I ordered them from Florida Shores Truck Center. About $100 less than Centramatics and free shipping.

I’ll update the thread when we fit them.

Paul

I also called Centramatic (800-523-8473 - Mike Hagar).

His recommendation was 700-720 for the Steers and 600-640 for the Drive and Tag.

Getting ready to order a set of Centramatics for our 2005 Signature.

Does anyone have the model numbers for all 3 axles?

Thanks

Paul

Hi All,

Sorry for not completing this. My job has been keeping me very busy and I have just not had enough time to complete this project to be ready to sell the Intellitec programmers with the necessary instructions and support to make it easy to do yourself.

We are planning to be at the Gathering in February 2022, and will be available to make backups of your Intellitec CPU, which is the most important thing to have done.

Backing up the keypads takes a lot longer and the keypads are fairly easy to program from scratch, unlike the main CPU which could take a lot of time to recreate. I will be available to do that too, but it will take more time.

Anyone that has used me to create the backup will also get free programming in the future if you need it for a CPU or a keypad.

Paul

I did not attach any of the isolator inputs.

On boats this is often used to protect the electronics when cranking the engine. There are not as many sensitive electronics on a motorhome

Paul