pwhittle

I have repaired about ten gauges now. In most gauges replacing just the capacitors works. If it still doesn’t work, I replace the stepper motor.

On the larger gauges some of the capacitors to replace are 100uF. I used https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/963-EMK325ABJ107MM-T

On some of the gauges the stepper motor mounts from the front of the circuit board rather than the back, and you need a different model motor and may have to cut 2mm off the shaft.

I used these X27.589 X25.589 Speedometer Stepper Motors Cluster Gauge Repair kit,7Pcs https://a.co/d/iknNNq3

The Speedo/display gauge look like you would have to cut the display out to get it apart enough to replace the stepper motor. You would then have to replace the display. I have not looked for a replacement part yet. I have repaired one by just replacing the capacitors.

I also 3D printed some bezel holders. These do two things: provide some support when removing the bezel so that the bezel does not spring out. This helps the most on the large gauges. These can also be used to recrimp the bezel using some groove joint pliers.

I’ll post some pictures and the STL files later.

Hi Michael,

The switch panels  are getting tough to find.

Can you take a picture of the front and rear of your faulty one?

Is it one or more buttons, or the whole keypad acting differently?

Paul

1 hour ago, Doug, W5WTX said:

I have a 2006 Monaco Dynasty. It has the original Aladdin rear View camera but the original owner did not order the side camera option.  The monitor has inputs for side cameras. 
 

What would it take to add your kit to my rig?  I am wondering if maybe the wiring for the side cameras are in place as part of a standard mirror wiring harness. 
 

Doug

 

Hi Doug, the wiring to the camera is 12V, GND, and the Video signal.

It would be straightforward to add the wiring, but to mount in the mirrors you would need the mount from Intec which I don’t think they sell without their camera.

if I were in your shoes, I would look at a different type of side camera that would mount to the side of the coach and integrate that.

Of course, if you really want them mounted on the mirrors, it can be done.

Paul

I have been looking into other cameras that would make for an even better upgrade than the original kit which I have been happily using for a couple of years now.

After buying and trying various cameras, I am pleased to let you know that I have completed the first set of Velvac Mirror Mounted Side Camera Updates 2.0!

I am not sure what the original black and white Intec Cameras were, but the original upgrade kit cameras are 800x533 pixels (520 lines) and were a great improvement over the originals.

The V2.0 cameras are 1280x720P, with a narrower field of view so what we want to see takes up more of the picture.

i also redesigned the mount so that the camera is tilted up 30 degrees and there is a significant reduction in the light in the camera lens from the headlights. (Full disclosure: I have not driven the coach in the day or night to see how much the improvement is).

Here is a view with the original update in the left, and the V2.0 update on the right.

Here is the image on the 10” Aladdin monitor I used to replace the original Sony “ monitor.

The new camera mount

Both cameras updated.

I really need to update my rear camera now. I am still using the original Sony camera from 2005.

Paul

Hi @grizzly,

Check with @Idoc57, and see if he can help.

if not, let me see what I can do.

Paul

I posted the .STL files:

If you know someone that can 3D Print, they can process these files for their particular printer and make some for you.

Paul

I used:

Steppper motors: ECCPP 4Pcs X27 168 Stepper Motor for Instrument Cluster Gauge Speedometer Kit https://a.co/d/3Rbd6SD

Capacitors: https://www.ebay.com/itm/202744805311

Paul

I had some success today!

My front air pressure gauge would not work when it was cold.

I took it apart and put it in the fridge for a while, then applied GND and 12v to the input pins. I could hear it trying to start, and when it got warm it would return the needle to the home position.

I replaced the capacitors per the YouTube video, and tested it again, and it still worked!

I put it in the freezer for 30 mins and tested it again, and it worked!

I also had a failed air gauge that would not even make a noise when power was applied. I replaced the capacitors, with no improvement. I also changed the stepper motor and applied power, and the needle returned to the home position!

I tested both repaired gauges in the coach, and they both work as expected!

Thanks @Mike H for searching down the info that showed us the fix!

Paul

Capacitors can wear out over time and are a common failure point.

Did you try changing out the stepper motor on one yet?

Paul

I watched the YouTube video, and he is replacing a couple of capacitors as well.

I think I have an extra faulty gauge that someone sent me after they replaced theirs so I will try this out.

I will probably 3D print a jig to hold the gauge in so the bezel does not get scratched, and maybe to re-crimp the bezel.

Paul

One of my air pressure gauges doesn’t always start up when it Is cold, but normally does when it it warm. The same for my fuel pressure gauge.

I can hear a faint noise that is the gauges trying to restart repeatedly. I suspect something in the power supply in the gauge rather that the stepper motor on mine.

I don’t have a solution to offer up.

Paul

These could also be 3D printed.

I have done the same type of thing for Aladdin Joysticks.

Paul

The rear cameras often have a microphone in them. Perhaps you are hearing that when in reverse.

Paul

I helped someone who had the same setup as yours, but his keypad was programmed incorrectly. We were able to work out what it was supposed to be and reprogrammed his keypad. His module labels  and the circuit diagrams did not match up with the Intellitec.

The Intellitec has some special logic to toggle one of three outputs on from one key press.

if I recall correctly, they were next to each other, so check all the output fuses on the module.

Paul

.

12 hours ago, cbr046 said:

As if life isn't complicated enough, all you need now is an iPhone or Android app and a bluetooth receiver (Raspberry Pi?) in parallel with the MPX bus.  Is it on a standardized bus?  I'm volunteering @pwhittle to sort out the "details".  😉

- bob

Hi Bob,

That is my “Want to do” list, but I don’t seem to be able to get through mr “Have to do” list. 😀

Paul

4 hours ago, isptbart said:

Tom - hey thanks for the info! Are the modules still available in case I need a replacement? Any other such related parts I should keep in hand?I have previously taken an inventory & made note of which switch activated which module & associated channel. Now.....if I can only remember where I put that inventory! LOL!

Many thanks!

Bart from Virginia

Hi Bart,

The only thing that is tough to find are the Monaco specific keypads. 

I have been able to get a few at different times, but I only have a couple left.

Intellitec still makes keypads that will work, but they are a different size and would look different.

Paul

I have had good luck with support from BlueSea.

I would try calling.

Paul

STL is STereo Lithography, and is the 3D model that you run through a slicer program to generate the commands for your printer and the filament you are going to print.

PLA is not really water or heat resistant. ABS or PETG or ASA would be better.

I pay about $22/kilogram for filament, so if they are providing the printer to do the printing, that is pretty fair.

Paul

@olywrestle and @Martinvz,

When you are ready, you can post the .STL files in our 3D Printer Files section.

https://www.monacoers.org/files/category/57-3d-printer-files/

Paul

My Inbox was full. Cleared out now.

I sent you a PM.

Paul

4 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

 

Paul, 

I did not know that you could read the DIP switch settings and then reprogram a switch.  I was told that you needed the Module Alpha Letter as well as the 1 - 10 Circuit or Channel Number to properly program a new switch pad.  Guess I should not have gone there....but that was why I went into the detail to write down or document the module and channel numbers for that switch pad before the "messed" with it.

Hope this explains it a bit better..... 

Tom,

The dip switches are to set the address of the output module. Typically the module has a big round sticker with the label on it too.

In lieu of a wiring diagram of @FishAR’s coach, let’s get some pictures of what is there. A wide angle to show all the modules, then one of each module.

Paul

The PMC output modules have their address in the system set by dip switches on the module. The keypad buttons are programmed to address an output on a specific module by combining the address of the output module and the output number on that module.

If the output module is non-latching the button must continue to be pressed for the load to stay on. If the output is latching, each button press changes it from off to on. A FET latching output module will turn off and on with a short press, and vary between 8 levels if the button is pressed and held.

Something in the system needs to provide the main signaling for the modules and the keypads to know when to send the signal on the PMC Multiplex bus. I would expect something like a Intellitec MultiPlex Control MASTER 00-00837-000 as the additional module, but there are various configurations available from Intellitec.

Pictures of the modules will help identify the configuration.

These are a fairly simple circuit board, but it does have a microprocessor on it, so take some care. I can program one without the original, but it is easier with the original.

Can you PM me some pictures of the modules in the closet?

I’ll look to see what I have available.

Paul

Unplugging one keypad should not stop the others from working, but unplugging it while the system is running can confuse things.

Try tuning the house 12V off and on to let the Intellitec system restart to get rid of the backlighting. You can use the Salesman Switch, or the House Battery disconnect switch.

My guess is your switch panel has failed and needs replacing.

The Monaco keypads are NLA from Intellitec, but I have a small number of them.

I have had one switch panel fail, and seen a couple of other people’s switch panels fail.

I have also seen some individual buttons become intermittent, and have been able to repair them.

Rev still sells the original design. Link is in the in post with the 3D file.

I have had the 3D printed ones on for a few months now, and they are working well.

Paul

I ended up pulling the mechanism to replace the chain on the rear end of the same slide. I had to call in a friend because once it was all loose I could not lift it myself. It scratched the paint on the side of the slide, but that was not an issue as it was scheduled to go in for paint anyway. I had to remove the panel over the fridge to get it out too.

See how much clearance you can make by removing wood trim. I think I even removed a cabinet under the countertop to get in there.

if the fasteners have pulled out, drill new holes so that the new fasteners are going into new wall.

I bought the chain from Paul Maddox/HWH.

It was a tough job. Best of luck with it!

Paul