W7BE_Bob

It sounds like low voltage and could be a CG issue or your cord plug. If you could have measured the voltage at the pedestal or inside (both legs) that might offer a clue. Can't really tell where the power got interrupted. Your surge/transient protector is just that - SURGE/TRANSIENT DETECTION ONLY. It is NOT a power protector, it does not shut down power. This is in contrast to the more common RV Energy Management System (EMS) which detects high/low voltage, miswired pedestal, open neutral and other faults and disconnects the power. Your unit is very expensive and may be quite good for surge/transient (pure surge if you like). I also recommend the PI HW50C. My remote is inside and I can observe voltage/amps and faults. HIGHLY recommed this unit as it also protects against an open neutral which if that occurs on 50A will let the smoke out of your electronics. I bought mine in 2004 and it's now in the second RV so I like to say it's free. I've never had a surge that caused the HW50C to fail but have encountered all of the other faults. Low voltage is rather common on 30A pedestals and less common in my experience on 50A, only happened to me once - hot summer day, older full park with many AC's running and I had 3 cranking. FYI Parks like homes are NOT wired to provide full power to every pedestal at the same time. Instead they are wired assuming full power will not be needed to every pedestal at the same time due to appliance usage/cycling. Normally the total power available is about 40-50% of the CB ratings.

Looka likw my Danze. Did you check under the counter for any labels? If any the camera phone may be very helpful.

Mine looked like a Moen, no label. Turned out to be a obsolete Danze with full warranty, identified with pictures. They sent me a complete new replacement faucet in 2016, no charge.

The OP indicated a 10K gen, probably Owen. They are 120/240V gens and my understanding is that they are not inverter gens. However the voltage could be different or it's not a exact 60 Hz sine wave causing the different readings.

It's very common to measure only the neutral wire which works fine on 20A or 30A or 120V gen. On 120/240 50A the neutral amps are the DIFFERENCE of the two hot leg amps and hence the display is turned off. The PI HW50C displays the amps and voltage on each leg which is for me more information on what each leg is carrying and with the remote inside a cabinet I can leave the door open to view. One of the reasons I have the HW version.

Monaco wired some to the chassis battery and some to the house battery. The thinking for the house battery wiring may have been that the chassis battery is smaller and could become discharged for various reasons and the priority remains with starting the engine. Plus using the battery boost switch with the gen connected to the house batteries is a user option for gen starting. There are pros and cons to either one. The biggest con for either one is the long distance from the gen to the DP rear batteries. Makes you wonder if the house batteries should be forward and better located for the inverter and gen. My inverter cables are 4/O and 21' one way and can easily pull 150A. At any rate this is not the only marginal wiring that Monaco used in my MH.

For reference. My 09 42’ Scepter with a 10K gen is slow cranking except when driving or the batteries are being charged. And much more so in cooler weather. I’ve known for some time that the voltage is low at the gen. The gen is connected to the house batteries. Summary: ALL connections are clean and good including lug to wire connections. I used a battery load tester connected to the gen end of the positive cable to measure voltage with a 85A load. The 1/O 44’ positive cable has a 0.4V drop (same as a wire wire calculator) and the ground which uses the frame has a 0.4V drop and the Monaco Blue Seas switch has a 0.4V drop. Other drops are small. Replacing the switch and using 2 4/O cables will help but would still be marginal. Not to mention what’s involved adding those cables. Clearly the best solution is to install a small battery and battery isolator next to the gen.

I didn't keep any of that information and it will likely be next summer before that will be possible. I generally expect 2/3 harvest from my flat panels - ie 500W from 750W. 35-45A is about the peak at noonish. One clear summer day I turned on inverter loads achieving 53A at 12.2V or 650W. The battery monitor collects various parameters but since I always have house loads it doesn't indicated the solar performance. I don't recall the MS MPPT-60 having that information but I'll check. However it will report various parameters to a connect PC including A and V and from there I could calculate W or Ah in Excel. I often run the gen in the morning for coffee and charging so I don't need all of the solar output to charge the batteries. A significant value for me is the battery finish charging from 80-100% which hopefully helps the Lifeline 6V life not at 8 years. I could buy/add a watt meter to check solar controller output. I'd need one with a hall effect sensor since at times I can pull 150A and they are not expensive. BTW That 650W is excellent considering it was a hot summer day and panel voltage drops at temperature goes up. To a much lesser degree panel amps increase. The net effect is less panel power with increasing temperature. More power with decreasing temps but prefer cool and but not cold locations. One reason I have wheels. 🤑

The Magnum ME2012 has a charger on/off button on the display.

Click on the display name in the upper right to change the email and password under Account Settings. How can I get the display name changed?

How can I change the display name, email and password? I'm in the process of getting a divorce from yahoo and their email etc.