W7BE_Bob

One is the source from the inverter. The other two are loads, one may go the back and the other to the front. My 18 plug circuit is similar. The inverter supplies MSW from it's inverter or PSW from shore power (pass through mode) or from the gen which should also be PSW. There are 2 inverter output circuits which is why you have a 30A CB supplying the charger/inverter.

First install a compatable GFCI for your inverter as it's MSW output is NOT the same as PSW shore power. If there is still a issue then on shore power trip the GFCI and find every dead plug on that circuit as this is the start of isolating the issue. On my rig that is 18 plugs (not a typo, just Monaco). Keep a list for future reference. Look everywhere - storage areas, ice maker, etc. For isolation disconnect both the hot and neutral wires and it can take a lot of time for an intermittent problem. Your load shedding problem may be due to bad connections in the CB panel including the loose CB.

The basics: For 120/240 50A single phase shore power the neutral wire is the same size as the 2 hot wires and carries the DIFFERENCE of the amps on the two hots. The neutral cannot be used to display the total amps. This is the exact same power supplied to houses except that a house has a higher amp rating like 200A. For 20A and 30A circuits the hot and neutral carry the same amps. My Intellitec defaults to 30A when it detects 0V between the 2 hots and in that case a single sensor on the neutral can display the amps for 20A and 30A. It cannot determine the difference between 20A and 30A and hence requires me to push a button when on 20A. This is for load shedding on 20A and 30A. The NEC recommends limiting the power to 80% for sustained loads or 24A on a 30A circuit. And 2 ACs in hot weather will qualify. This is one reason why 30A plugs often show signs of overheating. Neither the Progressive or Intellitec units are calibrated so a display difference of a few amps is normal and consistent in price with more accurate and calibrated devices. Note: All bets are off for a miswired 50A circuit which is not common and in direct violation of the NEC code. But some CGs do so because it’s expensive to install 50A power.

Interesting post. Apparently there is some level of interference between the 2 units. The Xantrex could be the problem or both units could be contributing. Bulk charging means ramping up the voltage with maximum amps and then absorb begins to taper the amps. Perhaps the Progressive is not a RMS voltmeter?

Use the sticker until you can weight the rig, full fuel, fresh water and cargo. I run 120, 90, 80 based on actual weight. Both the steer and dual are just a few hundred pounds of max axle weight. Tag is 5,000 lbs but I can't increase it's weight to decrease the dual because the steer is at max. Within specs but a poor Monaco design IMHO. Check the mfg load inflation tables and you'll see single and dual tires weight are different per tire. My steers carry about 7,000 and duals 5,000 which puts the axles at the max. Tag axle is rated at 10,000. BTW I could go 70 psi on the tag which is the minimum. FIND the tables for those tires, call the mfg, or use an equivalent table basedon a reliable tire professional person. Tire pressure IS lower when it's cold. How often do you have to add air? 107 sounds a little low to me. Why does the TST display need watching vs the alarm. Do you also switch to watch pressure? FYI TPMS sensors on the valve stems read lower than the actual tire tempature by as much as 40-50 degrees. The reason is obvious - the stem itself is cooled by ambient air vs inside the tire. Short rubber stems would likely have less difference but I would never recommend them. TST knows this but won't verify. A hint is in the manual where they suggest to NOT change the upper temperature. My suspicion is they have programmed a algorithm to account for the temperature difference. This would apply to any brand sensor on the valve stem.

Google the numbers on the lens. Mine is a 02 Dodge lens and the defective taillight circuit board that holds the 3 bulbs came from Amazon the next day. Or try the number on Amazon.+

Before alignment set the correct tire pressure based on the placard if you don't know the rig weights. Then later weigh the MH, each tire position if possible otherwise each axle and use the tire mfg load inflation table for the correct tire pressure. There are many incomplete and incorrect posts on this subject BTW so do your research. Also check the ride height.

I'd suggest driving related being the highest priority. A complete nose to tail chassis inspection for worn broken parts, including broken suspension welds, air bags, shocks, engine, drive train etc. The age indicates they are near the end of life and may be lesser quality componets as well, like Monroe shocks etc. Tires may be new but what are the DOT dates? Lights, turn signals, brake lights etc. Change all filters, fluids, etc. Next have the alignment checked and there are very few alignment shops that I would feel confident with. While my MH is very stable with the tag I added a Safe T Plus for 2 reasons: It helps stablize the driving given a front blowout and my drift to the fogline was to short and it's now set to 1/2 mile (no wind and normal flat road). Aquahot? Change filter and nozzle. Be aware that there are 4 liquids involved. Hot water, house heating - non toxic boiler antifreeze - never use engine antifreeze, engine antifreeze for hot water while driving and diesel.

Looks like your new lift has a swing a way, which is helpful but still gets somewhat old. But more to the point. When traveling with the MH I keep the scooter secured inside the SUV. I have a pair of 7' foldabe ramps. It's out out of the elements and more out of sight. I suspect your platform is hinged to adjust to non level ground and hence the scooter will bounce with road variations which I didn't want especially when towing the car with less visibility. The picture suggests the rear frame and not the wheels are lifted and if so maybe not the best. Mine has electronics under the frame in a steel box. Plus the rear area with batteries, seat, drive motor is a lot of weight hanging off the end of the platform. If so you might want to modify or change out the platform.

Valid is very aware that Monaco incorrectly installed the check valve. They can send you the connectors (threads are different) to move the check valve to the output of the compressor instead of downstream after the pressure switch. The reason is obvious. Compressors can and do normally have small leaks which results in low pressure but not not past the correctly installed check valve which Monaco installed down stream of the pressure switch. Valid is in BC so there are extra shipping and customs considerations. I decided to order from Valid rather than trying to get the parts locally. My coach will now stay level for a month with Valid turned off, but if you have leaks then not so much. And leaks are why some choose to install a switch to disable the Valid pump. The valid pump/air tank is not connected to the main tanks or brakes. The valid air is connected to the air manifold with valves for each axle and the leveling system operates the valves for each wheel position as needed to level and maintain level. ie Inflating/deflating only the air bags. This is different then the system to maintain ride height. The service brakes are not designed to work when parked with the engine off. They may but only until the tank pressure is low. The ebrake has a seperate chamber with a very strong spring on each dual to activate the brake which occurs when the console ebrake air switch is OFF (meaning closed or pulled up) or the tank pressure drops below about 60 psi. The brake is disabled when there is suficient air pressure to pull back the spring and release the air brake. This is a standard design to active the air brakes when pressure is lost.

Latching soenoids are mechanically latched and do not draw any power when on or off, only drawing power for a few seconds when they switch stated. DC however causes a LOT more arcing on the contacts than AC. Hence switches designed for DC have a more robust design to handle the arcing and hence cost more and this is especially true for higher amp switches. I turn off loads before activiting these larger DC solenoids which helps with longer life. Likewise for switches. Failure of the 2 Monaco battery switches have been posted but I leave them on. I have Blue Seas switches on the posts of the 2 battery banks, 300A on the house and 2000A on the chassis batteries.

FWIW with increasing prices. I paid for 8 Toyo 295/80R 225/16 M144 tires in July 2021 $4391. spin balance $256, metal stem rebuild $34 total $4681. Drive in/out $585/tire. Years ago I determined that a blowout was likely $10K if and only if no wreck was involved.

Excellent! My 04 Endevor with 8K miles had river edge wear on the steers. GY dealer showed a photo describing the defect with NO warranty. Really? I bought the current 09 in 11 and it had river edge on the steers and I knew it was a issue. As the steers devoleved and 2 duals developed edge wear I replaced the steers. And several years later the other six were replaced. I now refer to that tire mfg as bad year...

Oregon has lots of scales on secondary roads that I use. A few have level side to side clearance that I've used to weight all 6 wheel positions. They are free, on 24/7 and rarely is anyone else there. Story: One time at the one south of Brookings a lady came out of the booth (only time anyone has been around) and told me I was in danger on the duals because the tag was not on the ground! Oops - I had set to to automatically raise under 10 MPH - had a nice chat. BTW Brookings is on 101 which is a major truck route on the coast - OK not a interstate.

If you have metal stems rebuild them. If rubber then replace them with metal. And use the dually kit for the duals. Never use extenders. Now easy to inflate and much better if you add TPMS. Early 2020 DOT could be 22 months old. I personally would never use beads. Spin balance or wheel balancers. If you must dvive on the intestate then I would travel with low temps and traffic and 45 MPH with flashers. My steers are 14K lb and duals 20K lb (maxed out) and hence no room to adjust the tag at 5K lb which would oveload the steers . With full cargo, water, fuel and propane, in spec but very poor design IMHO.

I have 2 similar hoses for the front ACs and the rear AC. The engine air intake is located DS rear upper and has a 1" drain hose, runs down into the DS engine area and there is no insect blockage. The drain hose intake is located below the 6" air intake so in theory no water will enter.

Correct since for 120/240V service the neutral carries the difference of the the 2 hot legs amps. This is why the neutral wire is the same size as the hot wires as the maximum amps is 50A. If the 2 hot wires are connected to the same hot side of the transformer then the neutal can carry 100A and the wiring is not adequate. The best term for 120/240V service is split phase which is a single phase center taped (neutral) transformer wiring. 120/240V 50A service is single phase but often referred to as each phase, 2 phase etc. Very often misunderstoof.

More that 0 ohms can cause a GFCI to trip. GFCIs trip with 5ma leakage. That is about 24K ohms. Some types of GFCIs don't work in series but I've never had a issue, just something to be aware of. When doing my PDI for the current rig the 3 light tester showed a open ground on all of the kitchen plugs - Monaco had not connected a ground wire and the original owner never checked.

Excellent information. I haven't converted the MH fluorescents (yet) simply because our living area has 24 other ceiling and under cab lights that are all LEDs. Bedroom and bathroom are similar. FYI At home our high usage lights are LEDs which use 6.7x less power. In 2020 I wanted to leave the outside lights on at night for extra security. The LED cost savings per year for 3 60W lights was $65. The cost of the LEDs and switch timer was paid for in 6 months. The timer turns them on at sunset and off at sunrise.

BINGO! GFCIs also detect a neutral to ground fault condition even with appliances truned off. Remove the neutrals of each circuit in the panel and you should find the faulty circuit.

On 7/6/21 I paid $4391 for 8 of the same size M144 Toyo tires plus $290 labor for spin balance and metal stem rebuild. $4681 total. All I did was pay the bill.

There are 2 different flow through sensors with different batteries and battery replacement procedure. They are different size and weight and metal valve stems are recommended. Both are bigger and heavier than the cap sensor. Literature says rubber stems OK for the cap sensor. All 3 recommend replacing the O ring with the battery. Details are in the 507 installation manual.

It there a simplier way to disable a working load shedding system than bypassing all of the circuits? Unbelievable but a CG I'm going to has 2x 30A plugs and they suggest using the cheater cord. They had no idea if the 2 hots on the 30A plugs are 240V or not so I won't know if the load shedding has to be disabled before I get there and test the pedestal. I'm not concerned with overloading the 50A wiring neutral with 60A even if I should draw 60A which is unlikely. Overloading one of the 30A neutrals in the cheater cord is possible of course and I'll take that risk. Overloading the 30A neutral in the 30A pedestal is not my concern since the CG recommends using the adapter. I'm also aware of the possible safety issue on not having a dual CB on the 2 hots.

X2 Your board is bypassed. Check the other picture and you'll see a CB wire to one terminal for the relay and the romex hot wire to the other for each device that's shedded.

Every fuse with ignition off that has power is good, besides the switch has power. I discounted a second fuse but perhaps the switch activates a relay and there is another fuse - The 2 relays are labeled pass visor but they could be more than that - More to check. Since neither visor works my mind set is something common...