W7BE_Bob

Ted, We meet in Mesa and I wasn't able to get back to you. The alternator is charging the chassis battery and not the house battery right? The charger is not charging the house batteries right? My take: 1. You need a schematic and voltage measurement to determine the issues. 2. The blue heat sink and autoreset CB have been added, the diode voltage drop is less than ideal. There is no need for this unit given the Trombetta. Disconnect shore power, solar if equipped, batteries, remove and see if there is a label for identification. These are big clues of modification and and there may be other modifications. 3, The Bird appears to have disconnected wires and the yellow connector is likely new (given the other connector colors). I would not trust any of those wires to be correct. They may however be a big help to determine the ignition or battery boost wire that activates the Trombetta. 4. Without shore or gen does your inverter produce AC? To be clear "inverter" is often used instead of the correct charger/inverter term. I want to distinguish between the 2. Since the house battery is not being charged from shore or gen this suggests a charger related issue. There should be a direct connection between the charger/inverter and chassis batteries via cables and fuses and maybe a switch the reason being the very high DC amps that can occur. 5. Check the AC CBs associated with the charger/inverter and the DC output voltage. Note: there may be voltage from the batteries but if the charger is not working the voltage will indicate a discharged battery as will an amp check. Caution: Checking AC can be dangerous and all safety precautions need to be observed. 6. While you could replace the Trombetta with the ARC I would certainly be reluctant to do so until the problems and added equipment are understood. It could be a good idea to get a very experienced mobile tech with Monaco experience for diagnosis, sometimes we all need help.

Check the inverter to see if there is a cable plugged in or hanging loose for the temp probe. The Magnum probe is electrically isolated and designed to attach to the negative battery post. Others may vary. The best battery charging is dependent upon the battery temperature. The probe allows the charger to adjust the charging based on the temperature. However most RV chargers don't have a probe... BTW My solar charger also has a temperature probe.

Use the propane for BBQ or Firepit, just need tap and hose.

Henderson's Lineup in Grants Pass, OR, combine it with a trip.

Blue Seas produces quality products vs whatever a mfg uses for the warranty period...

There is no need to isolate the 2 flooded battery banks from multiple chargers (alternator and gen/charger) as the higher DC voltage one will dominate. Flooded and AGM are close enough also. Lithium not so much. I actually have 3 sources that includes solar. 10K Onan gens and up do have 120/240V output but the charger or charger/inverter uses 120V and not 240V since that is not available on 20A or 30A pedestals.

BEFORE you have them inspected be sure the tire pressure is correct. In 1987 I had what is know as a bead crack on the 1 year old Michelins with 8,000 miles. This crack was 0.5" deep - not a typo. Michelins continue to have cracking issues. Tom Whitlow - $10,000 for 8 tires? You made the Michelin executives very happy. In July 2021 I paid $4,200 for 8 Toyo tires installed, balanced etc. Prices are increasing but IMHO you were ripped off.

I have flat SS plates installed on the front drop down slide which had a plastic runner on the bottom that broke. The inside end is bent upwards so that it is pulled up a lower plastic edge. ie This is what causes the slide to raise up when retracted. For anyone with slide damage on the lower edge (likely due to water) the Talin plate has a 90 degree bend and covers the entire edge. It's sealed and will prevent water damage in addition to added strength. I would not use a flat plate for the above pictures.

Ted Carbonaro, I have a similar slide problem, live in the area and would like to see yours and discuss if possible. I've also been to Elite. Email rdsdan@gmail.com Bob Stephens

TST recommends setting the low pressure 10% below the cold pressure per axle and setting the high pressure 25% above the cold pressure per axle. No alarms for me with these settings. Tire manufactures recommended cold tire pressure is based on axle weight at about 70 F degrees, generally morning before driving. TST recommends to not change their default high tire temperature setting. I called them about the external sensors temperature being much lower than internal tire temperature (had both types at that time). They were vague and didn't answer as I expected. Logically the external sensors are subject to lower ambient air temperature on the valve stem, brass in my case than the internal tire temperature. The difference was significant. This would apply to any mfg external sensor. Hopefully for TST their high temperature alarm correctly detects excessive high temperature.

If you move the dryer to the other leg will there be better load balance? I would not consider the block heater load just manage the loads when it's used. The bedroom is likely just a few amps. Hot water and larger draw kitchen appliances are factors and could require some power management. The charger, MW and other heavy draw appliances can also be a factor. An inexpensive Kill A Watt will determine the amp usage. Use it directly for plug in devices. Turn everything off and with an adapter plug the RV power cord into it. Turn on one device at a time to determine amp draw by the difference. If you don't measure the actual amps by some method your are just guessing as a label may be high or is intended for a CB etc.

Google disconnect car battery. Don't take your car there.

Electrically it makes no difference as the circuit is now either open or closed. From a safety standpoint with a positive post switch a wrench that connects from the postive post to ground is dangerous. This is the same reason why a car negative cable is removed first and installed last.

I added full disconnect switches to both banks, negative post. Chassis switch is rated 3000A and house 300A. When they off the only drain is battery self discharge. IMO the starter reprsents a very heavy draw and the + should go directly from the battery to the starter. But there are many variations by Monaco. The main criteria for me is will is start easily in sub freezing weather?

PSI should be set based on the weight for that axle. Over psi means less road contact and under psi means higher temperatures which effects braking and stability. This is why tire mfg's publish load inflation tables. Weight each axle with fully loaded cargo, people, fuel, water and propane. If possible weight each wheel position and use the highest side for the axle psi. I installed metal valves including the dually setup and all valves are easy to access. Installed at tire replacement time and added TST 507 TPMS. Checked that there was no toad distance related issue and OK as expected since these are used on trucks with multiple trailers. I'm not aware of internal sensors for my tires. Ford has a wired kit for trailer TPMS. Also not aware of a way to use the Jeep internal sensors nor have I found metal stems that will work with the internal sensors.

No I was not referring to the charger. I was referring to the correct charging for a flooded battery regardless of the source, charger, solar or alternator. 13.4 is not OK for the conditions you described. First do a load test on both battery banks and then with good batteries find out why your alternator or wiring is not charging as they should. This assumes you measure at the battery terminals.

Dash voltage can be lower due to the wire/size/distance and load. What counts is the voltage at the battery terminals. If the chassis battery is charged and it's in float mode then 13.4 is OK. If the alternator, chassis battery, house battery and all connections are good then a discharged battery will cause the full charging cycle after starting, otherwise not so much. ie discharged voltage, bulk ramping up to 14.6, absorb at 14.6 then tapering down to float 13.6. The voltages can change somewhat depending upon the temperature.

With the shallow cross tank the fuel sloshes side to side and when lower air can be drawn in. By design the gen pickup is above the engine so that the gen can't draw out enough fuel to cause the engine to quit before there is adequate time to get more fuel. If the gauge issue is not related to the coach leaning like on a hill I would fix the problem. Note: When the engine is started the gauge recalibrates and after that it takes a few minutes to change the needle due to the damping. At least both of mine have been accurate and consistent. Certainly a gen pickup at 1/2 full is restrictive. I track all of my fuel usage and have a 7.8 MPG average for 10 fill ups. However a single tank tank fill varies considerable from 4-12 MPH due to filling and driving conditions. Hence it pays to be careful and aware of when to fill again based on mileage because of the shallow cross tank design. Ditto on assuming a gauge is accurage. My low light comes on at just under 1/4 and my gen cutoff is about 3/8 full. I've gone 600 mi with but don't go further with mountain driving ahead. Generally it's recommended to use 3 or more (or even more for me) fillups to calculated MPG because of the shallow cross tank design. Centroid calibration basics: It's cut to length for Empty. Revove the gauge and measure it to determine the empty location on the tank if you want. Then while removed set the low adjustment so that the gauge is on E. Install the gauge and on a level fill the tank normally. Drive to a nearby level area and adjust the full setting to F on the gauge. Centroid has more information. FWIW In 2005 Monaco under warranty twice tried to adjust my gauge and failed to get close. I then read the directions and made the adjustment.

Do you have the Centroid fuel gauge and considered adjusting it. I'm skeptical that the pickup is at 1/2 tank. Remove the gen hose, insert a small wire with a short 90 degree bend to probe the pickup end and determine just how deep it is. Both of my Centroid have been very accurate and repeatable. Monaco's wide shallow cross tank and Centroid on one side however causes the fuel level to change and hence the gauge changes like on a crowned road. The gauge is very highly damped and hence doesn't immediately change. I would NOT extend the pickup to 1/4 tank which would be at or close to the engine pickup and that exposes you to air pickup for the engine. There are baffles in the tank but with the cross tank design air intake can happen. If that heppens to a diesel you can go from full throttle to dead with no warning. Plus if your gen pickup is welded in place it will be a big job to remove the tank. My gen pickup is at 3/8 and engine at 1/4 maybe a little below. My 130 gal tank is about 100 gal with a level fill. When tilted I can add 15-20 gallons. To the person who suggested moving the engine pickup lower - DON'T for the reasons above - ie you will be exposed to air pickup. You can probe the engine pickup per above the post and then purge the engine of air before driving. Given the tank location Monaco's fuel pickups are set for very good reasons. Of course they could have installed the wrong pickup.

Mine are Lipper, slides only. The pump was repaced by Lipper in 2011 with a new redesigned unit after I pointed out the 5 design issues. Cheap Lipper plastic hoses replaced in 2016. They leaked intenally and the oil travels to the fitting to leak out. 8 hoses 160' total of quality hose and fittings $634, 6 hrs of labor at $75, $1140 total. This was done by a hydraulic shop. Process: Cut all of the wire ties, install the fitting on one end in the shop, attach it to an existing hose, pull the hose through, cut and attach the other fitting and tighten the fittings. ie No need to guess at the length. Repeat for remaining hoses. New wire ties. Add oil. Slides out/in several times to purge the air Today with hydraulic jacks it could be $3-4k, did you get an estimate? It can be a DIY job with a portable crimper.

X2 Dr4Film. Don't get your point of cost of 50 gal? Buy 50 gal at a time and you're buying the same number of gallons but with multiple fuel stops.

I have the same basic tank, 130 gal, fills to 100 gal level. Tilted with air leveling can add up to 20 gal additional. Can fill from either side but see no reason to use the truck slave pump. Check that your overflow hose is not clogged. HOWEVER I suspect that your problem is related to using a car type diesel pump, although I've never had any issue with one. Find a way to hold the nozzle in place like a custom fitted piece of wood, etc. My MH has a small fill door that's mounted on a much larger door. It was much easier to open the large door to fill. BTW my Jeep has a significant and know gasoline fill design issue and I'm going to search for a solution this winter.

The solenoid can also be activated from a key switch wire, no BIRD needed. I'm not aware of any MH that doesn't charge both banks by design when the engine is running as that would make no sense, ie depart with discharged battery and arrive with the same or even more discharged house battery and even a refer that no longer works??? Who would buy a rig like that?

The InvisiBrake as stated uses the brake light wiring from the MH to activate. The Roadmaster InvisiBrake, a prior box brake and my current Air Force 1 (air activated) have no cab indication that the toad brakes are engaging. You can of course have someone check that the toad lights are working and the petal moves before departure. This bothred me in 2004 and I added a cab light that's activated from the toad brake lights which is a good indication that the petal is moving. For 2 different Monaco MHs I've found a unused wire from the cab to the trailer connector to use for my light.

I've never considered that aspect. Even from the Amazon warehouse it's 1 or more hands. I look at price including shipping and delivery date. Plus I don't have to go get it but there are some stores I like to browse. Using son's Prime, shipping is free other than the price increase to cover shipping. One item I recently got was half the price at HD vs Amazon, so great opportunity to visit the store. It was a locker pickup with no waiting at the service desk. Made offshore, wonder how many hands it had been through?