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W7BE_Bob last won the day on August 17 2020

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  1. 4 failed starters doesn't pass the smell test. Some far out thoughts: You have a cable problem and not a starter problem. Replacing the starter involves removing cables. Replacing the starter moves the cables and hence it was clearly a starter problem? Unseen corrosion especially near a battery can occur under the insulation. When the failure occurs have you tried jumping directly to the starter? It could also be the wiring that activates the starter solenoid. Replace the battery to starter cable, battery to frame grouud cable and engine block to frame ground cable. You replaced the batteries 2 years ago - did the problem start after that? Just wondering. Correct battery installed? What does 12.4V load test mean? Starting draws a lot of amps and the battery will drop well below 12.0V. The purpose of a starting battery load test is to simulate the start. Have a good battery store check the battery and that’s not a auto store. Does your charger charge the chassis battery as built? Some do some don't. Or has it been modified? Just hard to imagine that being plugged in is related but thought I’d ask. Don't let storage people start the MH without you. Why? Because you are clueless about what they did/encountered which might be a clue to help diagnose. RVs have loads that can't be turned off, hence the battery discharges. It might be hard to start or they might jump it. Have your eyes and ears on the start.
  2. OK, Caught up on the requirement being dropped for RVs. Every state has it's traffic laws and there is no reciprocity for out of state drivers for those laws. I suspect that if it's legal to impose smog restrictions on visiting commercial trucks then it will also be legal for other vehicles. A 3 day exception for commercial trucks would be a problem for many turcks. Those proposed RV restrictions may just be on hold for another day.
  3. Dennis, Hope you are right about the legal part but I'll still be going to CA. Not defending CA but they have set the standard for smog etc for the entire nation and the states and companies complied with much complaining.
  4. My 09 Scepter does not have a CPU and hence I was under the impression that any replacement just required dip switch settings. Is this correct?
  5. Interesting reading. Part 3 indicates a followup, anyone have a link? The article indicates that additional testing with better equipment is planned. I checked several meter readings in part 3 and while volts increase and amps decrease and with the autoformer there is about a 30W loss of power in the autoformer which reflects the good efficiency of a transformer. However the autoformer consumes power of course and his numbers indicate about 30W. That power increase is not free for metered sites and/or the CG. How this all effects the utility company and the NEC is not clear to me. The articles ignore the power factor which is another aspect of the overall picture.
  6. Are those weights with full cargo, fluids and passengers and at ride height? Any way to shift cargo to better balance the drive axle? What about the side to side weight on the other 2 axles? Given your weights inflate all drive axle tires to the heavest side, ie 95psi 11,400lb. Ditto for the other axles. This is the tire manufactures recommendation. No consideration for lifting the tag as that is temporary and at low speeds only. I would use the mfg spec'd tire. My tire guy said moving wheels on the same side would result in the maring of the current outside of the alloy rims by the drum. Only option is to unmount/remount the tires. No thanks.
  7. Steer 14150, drive 19150, tag 5,000. Since the steer and drive are within a few hundred pounds of maximum the tag can't be changed.
  8. Do some research on Crown but I believe it is the best battery available, and with a good price I'd jump on it. My 4x GCs Lifelines were installed 2011. Marine batteries (don't be fooled by the Marine Deep Cycle label) are compromised starting batteries. Truck batteries are starting batteries. Neither have the design/durability of deep cycle batteries, Both are good for pedestal to pedestal use. 12V deep cycle batteries are rare and expensive which is one reason GCs are popular.
  9. With high pressure I can use high or low pressure appliances. Use whatever amount of propane I want without being concerned with the RV regulator. I can use a Y for say BBQ and propane firepit (55,000 BTU) together plus the RV w/o concern. No modification of propane devices needed. A neighbor with a empty tank needs to BBQ - meet someone new. While there is a standard low pressure amount I don't know that all devices with their regulator use the same low pressure. Maybe but some devices say to use THEIR regulator for whatever technical or marketing reason.
  10. My high pressure BBQ adapter includes the external tank port. Plus I can connect to any BBQ that needs either high pressure or low pressure. Low pressure propane fittings are common on RVs and you may need to remove thte BBQ regulator as the use of 2 regulators may give inconsistent propane pressure. This is my high pressure adapter with a El (for hose routing considerations) and a shutoff valve. The top external tank port is for additional external tank. The BBQ connector is the standard 1 lb 1" screw on propane bottle type. https://i.imgur.com/9Dcdvkz.jpg Hoses with the standard 1” screw on adapters are available. And an adapter for the standard BBQ regulator fitting are available. Propane stores can also make custom length hoses however I use 1 or 2 12' hoses as needed. Here are the parts that connect to any grill with a external tank connector. https://i.imgur.com/6DF4wHul.jpg
  11. Terry, If you're asking me click on the link in my signatrure. Removing ceiling fixtures allowed visibility to parts of the roof.
  12. When I installed my solar I was able to flex the roof up and down where the panels were attached to the roof near the center because I now had something to pull up. This led to the discovery that the center sloped roof is not attached to the flat ceiling cross beams which are on 4' centers. It is attached where there is additonal structure like A/Cs and vents of course. Eventually I added long aluminum L brackets positioned fore/aft and secured them to the ceiling beams with 2.5" SS screws and then ran an additional support brackets to the panels.
  13. First consider a inside routing through cabinets or closets or walls. I've routed wires through hollow inside walls and insulated outside walls, be creative and use switches, lights etc that can help gain access. Cabinet panels may be decorative and can be removed. Mine are attached with brads and glue and come right off. Reattached with screws, no visible wires. For my rear cap I'd remove the camera and use mirrors, lights, small cameras to determine wire routings. Lacking that I'd drill a small hole on top and probe with a wire to determine it opens down. Use a straight probe to determine about where it will reach the bottom. Drill a hole in the bottom. Drop a metal object on a string and use a magnet to bring it to the bottom hole. Use needle nose pliers, wires with a hook or whatever to get the string. Talk to an alarm installer about techniques. Consider 4' drills, 8' fiberglass (1/8" diameter) wire pulls. Think outside the box and be creative. The "best" routing for me was midships through cabinets into the basement storage for the CC etc. Short 4ga wire run to the inverter which has long 4/0 wires to the rear batteries. This resulted in a 0.7V or 2% wire drop at 60A (CC max) from the panels to the batteries which is very acceptable. Plus the CC remote voltage sense makes that loss a non issue (or at least very acceptable) for battery charging. Plus consider that at 30A the wiring loss is half.
  14. 3x serial panels 9A at 120V. I used a 30A 240VAC A/C disconnect switch and disconnected both poles. A fuse is not needed. Not DC rated but that's not really a factor. 80A switchable CB on the battery side.
  15. Y adapter safety concerns: The biggest concern is that ONLY one CB will trip leaving 120V available. This can be misleading since normally ALL 120V power is removed due to the use of a dual CB breaker. Another concern is overloading the adapter or pedestal neutrals when drawing from 30 to 50A on a non 240V pedesal. No issue with the RV 50A wiring. However the adapter 50A neutral is connected to both 30A plug neutrals and the current for each neutral is controlled by the impediance of each neutral and in this case the current may not be evenly spilt 50-50. For example one neutral prong is more tarnished and hence higher impediance and so one neutral is carrying 40A and the other 5A. This possible overload applies to the adapter and neutrals in the pedestal and may even apply to further upstream depending upon how the pedestal is wired. These 2 concerns are one reason CGs don't allow the use of the Y adapter. They usually don't understand any of the above. I was surprised when a CG suggested I use the Y adapter.
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