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W7BE_Bob

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W7BE_Bob last won the day on August 17 2020

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  • FirstName
    Bob
  • Make
    Holiday Ramber
  • Model
    Scepter
  • Year
    2009

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  1. Are those weights with full cargo, fluids and passengers and at ride height? Any way to shift cargo to better balance the drive axle? What about the side to side weight on the other 2 axles? Given your weights inflate all drive axle tires to the heavest side, ie 95psi 11,400lb. Ditto for the other axles. This is the tire manufactures recommendation. No consideration for lifting the tag as that is temporary and at low speeds only. I would use the mfg spec'd tire. My tire guy said moving wheels on the same side would result in the maring of the current outside of the alloy rims by the drum.
  2. Steer 14150, drive 19150, tag 5,000. Since the steer and drive are within a few hundred pounds of maximum the tag can't be changed.
  3. Do some research on Crown but I believe it is the best battery available, and with a good price I'd jump on it. My 4x GCs Lifelines were installed 2011. Marine batteries (don't be fooled by the Marine Deep Cycle label) are compromised starting batteries. Truck batteries are starting batteries. Neither have the design/durability of deep cycle batteries, Both are good for pedestal to pedestal use. 12V deep cycle batteries are rare and expensive which is one reason GCs are popular.
  4. With high pressure I can use high or low pressure appliances. Use whatever amount of propane I want without being concerned with the RV regulator. I can use a Y for say BBQ and propane firepit (55,000 BTU) together plus the RV w/o concern. No modification of propane devices needed. A neighbor with a empty tank needs to BBQ - meet someone new. While there is a standard low pressure amount I don't know that all devices with their regulator use the same low pressure. Maybe but some devices say to use THEIR regulator for whatever technical or marketing reason.
  5. My high pressure BBQ adapter includes the external tank port. Plus I can connect to any BBQ that needs either high pressure or low pressure. Low pressure propane fittings are common on RVs and you may need to remove thte BBQ regulator as the use of 2 regulators may give inconsistent propane pressure. This is my high pressure adapter with a El (for hose routing considerations) and a shutoff valve. The top external tank port is for additional external tank. The BBQ connector is the standard 1 lb 1" screw on propane bottle type. https://i.imgur.com/9Dcdvkz.jpg Hoses with the s
  6. Terry, If you're asking me click on the link in my signatrure. Removing ceiling fixtures allowed visibility to parts of the roof.
  7. When I installed my solar I was able to flex the roof up and down where the panels were attached to the roof near the center because I now had something to pull up. This led to the discovery that the center sloped roof is not attached to the flat ceiling cross beams which are on 4' centers. It is attached where there is additonal structure like A/Cs and vents of course. Eventually I added long aluminum L brackets positioned fore/aft and secured them to the ceiling beams with 2.5" SS screws and then ran an additional support brackets to the panels.
  8. First consider a inside routing through cabinets or closets or walls. I've routed wires through hollow inside walls and insulated outside walls, be creative and use switches, lights etc that can help gain access. Cabinet panels may be decorative and can be removed. Mine are attached with brads and glue and come right off. Reattached with screws, no visible wires. For my rear cap I'd remove the camera and use mirrors, lights, small cameras to determine wire routings. Lacking that I'd drill a small hole on top and probe with a wire to determine it opens down. Use a straight probe to deter
  9. 3x serial panels 9A at 120V. I used a 30A 240VAC A/C disconnect switch and disconnected both poles. A fuse is not needed. Not DC rated but that's not really a factor. 80A switchable CB on the battery side.
  10. Y adapter safety concerns: The biggest concern is that ONLY one CB will trip leaving 120V available. This can be misleading since normally ALL 120V power is removed due to the use of a dual CB breaker. Another concern is overloading the adapter or pedestal neutrals when drawing from 30 to 50A on a non 240V pedesal. No issue with the RV 50A wiring. However the adapter 50A neutral is connected to both 30A plug neutrals and the current for each neutral is controlled by the impediance of each neutral and in this case the current may not be evenly spilt 50-50. For example one neutral prong is
  11. Clarification: If you are connected to a single 30A plug with an adapter there is NO need to disable load shedding and you can't exceed 30A period. If on the other hand you use the 30/30/50 Y adapter and the power is NOT 120/240V then you have 2 30A circuits or 60A available. You CANNOT OVERLOAD either circuit since its 30A breaker will trip. Howerver in this type of non compliant setup the neutral carries the sum of the hot leads and hence is overloaded if you draw 51 to 60A. But my understanding is that the EMS will detect non 240V and limit load shedding to 30A total which is why I started
  12. Thanks Larry and everyone else who helped on this thread. My 04 Endeavor had a 7500W gen with 2 x 120V circuits. ie 62A total. Monaco uses a special 4 wire cable with the neutral wire one size larger. This went from the gen to the ATS to the CP panel.
  13. I installed a variation of the above. My rig has a 20A plug in the engine room to plug in thee engine block heater (yeah my cheap Monaco does not have a dash switch to activate the block heater). I added a circuit that can use this plug or and extension cord with 2 interior plugs in the closet and the front. The basic use of this circuit is for 2 ceramic heaters that gets it's power from the block heater circuit or an external extension cord. The front plug is under the CB panel so I could adapt a A/C circuit to use it. Some of Monacos wiring both AC and DC definitely show cost cutting me
  14. My understanding is that 2x 30A plugs that are not 120/240V will result in the EMS selecting 30A and shedding when the total amps on the neutral exceed 30A. If it sees the 240V then the EMS selects 50A as there is no way to tell the difference between a 120/240V 30A circuit and a 120/240V 50A circuit. Is this not correct? But yes once 30A has been exceeded and shedding occurs circuits that are not shedded can draw amps so that the total exceeds 30A. I have several plug circuits that are not on the EMS. Just clarifying the details as I'll bypass the EMS by moving the wires.
  15. For clarity I think you're saying the EMS relays are normally open and closed when AC power is initially available. Would removing the sensor from the neutral work since EMS would detect 0A and activate the relays? Just wondering as I would not do that and instead and bypass the relays. In my case the load wire length is adequate to move it to the panel CB. I knew someone would ask why. OK I have a reservation at a CG without 50A. The pedestal has 2x 30A plugs and they suggested using the 30/30/50 Y adapter. However they did not know if it was 2x 120V 30A or 120/240V 30A. I want a plan
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