W7BE_Bob

Aluminum does not rust. But some alloy variation could contain steel related components. Long term I'd want to know more before covering it up which might mask the problem.

Hard to detect a fake 50 if you mean the lack of 240V vs 20 or 30A with adapter. On my Secpter the load sharing defaults to 30A w/o 240V because there is no practical way to determine a 20 vs 30A circuit. Also can't detect that the gen is less than 12KW and it's a 120/240V gen. But the HW50C could have a 240V indication as a possible alert of fake 50 when off. But when I initially thought of that I also knew that most RVs couldn't spell electricity and certainly didn't understand a surge protector vs EMS and a 120/240V circuit is beyond imagination even though virtually every house has they type of circuit. And there are dieharts that insist 120/240 is 2 phase when it's single phase.

Richard Understood but for me if there is a problem at hookup which has only happened once since 2004 the HW50C did not connect power. I never plug in with loads switched on so low voltage has never been a issue for me at that point in time. I did initially pre check the pedestal but for me this has never been a issue until loads were turned on inside. I developed a high level of confidence in the HW50C to protect the RV.

The cable is a standard RJ11 data cable which is the same as a telephone cable except the 2 inner wires are reversed. These are easily available. You can also use 2 telephone cables with a straight through connector which is then equivalent to a data cable. I didn't see the value of a outside remote when at hookup I could go inside to check. Most of the problems were low voltage and occurred later when we were inside and having the display inside was very useful. Several cases of low voltage on 50A in older poorly wired campgrounds. One case of high voltage (160V) on a 30A plug that occurred at 10PM. This was due of course to a open neutral in the 120/240V CG distribution system. None of these problems occurred at hookup. I did have one case of reversed polarity on 30A. 19 years with the same HW50C and data cable in 2 RVs.

Mopar should have included an extra pole on the switch to take care of the fuse. This thread https://www.irv2.com/forums/f85/jeep-grand-cherokee-death-wobble-339594.html has 500+ posts on death wobble and I believe this is the thread where several posters were very involved in a Mopar death wobble solution. Jeff, Suggest you check and ask your switch question in this and perhaps other irv2 threads.

Jeff, Various vehicles have the well known death wobble which is a result of switching to EPS. The EPS system does not have adequate damping for towing and may not be limited to earlier EPS systems. The fix that is available for some Jeep models/years is a wiring harness, switch etc. Turning it on for towing enables EPS and hence you will need to have a adequate charge line from the MH for EPS and aux brake as otherwise the battery gets drained. My 14 GC Overland has hydraulic steering with an electric motor for the pump, so no problem. To be clear the switch etc. does much more that bypass a fuse and the battery has to remain connected. This is a serious issue and there have been pictures posted with very serious damage to the car and MH. The issue also occurs in other mfg vehicles. Highly recommend you go to the Jeep forum where there are tons of posts and knowledge. BTW If I recall correctly your 2017 Jeep Cherokee has the death wobble issue.

Call Valid which is in BC and see if they can help.

My drive axle has 19,600 lbs with 20K limit and tire inflation tables are 90 psi. Tag is 5,000 lbs with 10K limit, cannot increase this because the stear is at max. Side to side weight difference is small. These are loaded weights. Doubtful that moving the water/fuel/aquahot back would help because the storage areas would move forward. While the weights are within specs a better design with include a higher rating steer axle so that the tag weight could increase and reduce the drive weight. But other than the original badyear tires I've had no suspension issues other than the wonderful Monroe shocks that outlived the warranty and were replaced with Koni.

If still no power jump start the chassis battery and start the engine to charge them. Then if the gen won't start jump the house batteries and start it, ie the gen could be connected to either battery bank. Hopefully the slides will now come in. Once resolved have the batteries load checked as discharged battery have a shorter life and may be shot. Also fix that hydraulic leak. My hydraulic system is Lipper with their cheap, leak prone plastic hoses. Replaced all 8 hoses with quality hydraulic hoses due to leaks to the front 2 slides. The pump leaked at year 2, flooded and killed the motor. The Lipper manual instructions for using the motor were completely wrong. Created and solution and Lipper sent a new pump/tank (warranty) which was a completely new design and no further problems since 2011.

I saw an absolute beautiful sight of a cars headlighs illuminating a launch ramp at night. Only a minor problem with the lights below the water!

Are you absolutely sure the unit you bought has a heat pump option? What is the label on the red wire? Is it +7.5V or? If all else fails remove all RV wiring, use new temporary wiring and thermostat eliminating all RV and Dometic wiring etc and verify that the heat pump works.

My suggestion is to check on iRV2 as those folks were and probably still are very knowledgable on the toad subject.

And make sure that flat towing is written documentation from the mfg. Any dealer, telcon, etc information will not be a basis for compensation.

Not all as my 2014 Grand Cherokee Overland does not have EPS. The steering is hydraulic which has the damping to prevent "death wobble". An electric motor drives the pump but the remaining system is hydraulic. And Jeep has significant "death wobble" problems that they did not want to fix.

Opinion: Originally I had the Roadmaster tow bar that had adjustable length for hookup, would then lock in place and could be difficult to unhook. Later I switched the arms to the All Terrain one to solve that probem. Also had a box type brake and that was also replaced with a permanent built in brake. Note: Our camping style has always been frequent stopping for short periods and ease use for towing became a priority vs say snowbird type of usage staying for longer times. Planning to sell the current 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland which is set up with Roadmaster base plate and Air Force 1 brake. Can be towed with non airbrake MH with the addition of a small compressor. Previous toad was a 04 CRV. 2015 and newer CRVs cannot be towed due too a transmission change. I have always used a 6 wire toad hookup cable and the spare wire connected from the toad brake lights to a MH cab light so I know when the toad brakes were activated. A 6 wire cable allows for the addition of a charge line if needed and there is increased need of one in more current year models due to the increase of electronics including EPS, etc when towing. Just my opinion.