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Auminum roof with hundreds of holes


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Hi, I have a Cayman 2003 and I just discovered my roof had hundreds of tiny holes in it, mostly only on one side of the RV. It started with small rust type bubble and when sanded it showed up as holes in the roof. The roof was completely replaced 6 years ago after hail storm. Any suggestion, does not want to spend a fortune on this?

Replace with TPO roof? Repair like a rusted car roof, buff, putty and paint? Ethernabound over all damaged surface?

They want $10,000 to completely replace the roof with an Aluminum roof.

Thank you

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386429776_632966995701989_6676576641498648659_n.jpg

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A lot depends on how long you intend to keep the motorhome.  I have done motorhomes with Henry's roll on products for a short term fix (it will last a few years).  For a long term fix, I would also recommend the poly-urea spray on roofing (RV Armor, FlexArmor, etc...).  Roll on roofing is cheap (a few hundred bucks), but with limited warranty.  The spray on poly-urea is much more expensive (about $150 per linear foot), but often has a life time warranty.  I had the front of my coach sprayed with a poly-urea bra color matched to my coach to combat the rock chip problem.  I have been very happy with it.

Richard 

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1 hour ago, JDCrow said:

If it were me, I’d putty, prime then go talk the bed liner (Rino, Arma) and get a quote to shoot the whole roof. 

That sounds like a good idea, never though of Rino, I will check on that for sure. I guess they have white stuff.

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51 minutes ago, Michel said:

That sounds like a good idea, never though of Rino, I will check on that for sure. I guess they have white stuff.

Yeah there is an outfit in Yuma on South Frontage that advertises heavy. I think for our rigs it is a legit use. Outlast me anyway 

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2 hours ago, hex_nut said:

A lot depends on how long you intend to keep the motorhome.  I have done motorhomes with Henry's roll on products for a short term fix (it will last a few years).  For a long term fix, I would also recommend the poly-urea spray on roofing (RV Armor, FlexArmor, etc...).  Roll on roofing is cheap (a few hundred bucks), but with limited warranty.  The spray on poly-urea is much more expensive (about $150 per linear foot), but often has a life time warranty.  I had the front of my coach sprayed with a poly-urea bra color matched to my coach to combat the rock chip problem.  I have been very happy with it.

Richard 

Thank you for your recommendations. I contacted RV Armor or FlexArmor not sure, they start at $195 / linear foot but maybe I could do it myself. As I understand this is only to shoot their stuff on the roof? I was quote about the same price in Canada to replace the complete roof with aluminum sheet warranty for 20 years.

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2 hours ago, pulsarjab said:

Have you determined what caused the holes?

 

No but it is corroded just like picture of corroded aluminum. Maybe it was already corroded when they installed it, I do know. My old roof had 15 years, not even a trace anywhere but after hail, it was all dented and insurance paid for replacement. I will see if I can get the RV shop to pay for it.

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Not sure what could have caused the holes but I have had my roof covered by RV roof FlexArmor. It is a bit pricy but is guaranteed for life and the warranty is transferable. 
I didnt have roof issues and didnt want them later on so bit the bullet and had it done. 
2006 Monaco LaPalma 34PDD. 

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After looking at the corrosion article I wonder if the replacement roof was properly installed.  Dielectric materials need to be used between dissimilar metals,  like aluminum and steel, everywhere, to prevent galvanic corrosion. You might want to use an Non Contact Voltage Tester Pen to make sure there isn't live current there which would speed the action.

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Curiously,  why corrosion appears on side, and not the other?

Plausible, they used incompatible alloy on one side for this application.

Or, it indicates this original surface  was exposed to something outside the neutral PH 4 to 6 range for Aluminum.

 

TPO a bad choice,..difficult to fit on, and secure to the contoured surface and,  also, with ANY moisture , it’s Greased Lightning!

Whatever you were to put in the thin Aluminum holes, you need to be confident that it  has some physics to hold it there. I would feel more confident with something that  goes over, and securely covers the holes.

My two cents for an economical and virtually permanent solution for this DIY project.

 

Start by, CLEANING the painted roof surface with a quick, (but thorough), wipe down with Acetone as a cleaning agent using lots of fresh Clean rags to pick up dust. Acetone’s long term contact, can lift the paint. (also, don’t store the damp dirty, and combustable rags inside ).

 

Now, Clean the exposed Aluminum with 50 / 50 vinegar / distilled water solution to clean and Etch the AL.

Finally, lightly “damp wipe” the Aluminum with just distilled water and let it thoroughly dry.

Now, spot cover Holes with reasonably sized pieces of, Eternabond Tape.

 

Next: Mask off perimeter Non-work areas.

Then, Google RC 2000 and look at Inland Coatings, as they have a two part coating system designed specifically for Metal Roofs.

In this case it is important that the coatings remains slightly flexible, especially over time on a dynamic RV roof system.

 

Check out  RC 2013 as their metal roof primer, which should be "Rolled On” the entire roof surface.

Then, (also rolled on), their Top coat RC 2014,  this step is Required.

 

I have been impressed with the surface adhesion of the RC 2000 products.

YOU, can solve this!

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  • 4 weeks later...
On 10/8/2023 at 1:16 AM, Gary Petersen said:

Curiously,  why corrosion appears on side, and not the other?

Plausible, they used incompatible alloy on one side for this application.

Or, it indicates this original surface  was exposed to something outside the neutral PH 4 to 6 range for Aluminum.

 

TPO a bad choice,..difficult to fit on, and secure to the contoured surface and,  also, with ANY moisture , it’s Greased Lightning!

Whatever you were to put in the thin Aluminum holes, you need to be confident that it  has some physics to hold it there. I would feel more confident with something that  goes over, and securely covers the holes.

My two cents for an economical and virtually permanent solution for this DIY project.

 

Start by, CLEANING the painted roof surface with a quick, (but thorough), wipe down with Acetone as a cleaning agent using lots of fresh Clean rags to pick up dust. Acetone’s long term contact, can lift the paint. (also, don’t store the damp dirty, and combustable rags inside ).

 

Now, Clean the exposed Aluminum with 50 / 50 vinegar / distilled water solution to clean and Etch the AL.

Finally, lightly “damp wipe” the Aluminum with just distilled water and let it thoroughly dry.

Now, spot cover Holes with reasonably sized pieces of, Eternabond Tape.

 

Next: Mask off perimeter Non-work areas.

Then, Google RC 2000 and look at Inland Coatings, as they have a two part coating system designed specifically for Metal Roofs.

In this case it is important that the coatings remains slightly flexible, especially over time on a dynamic RV roof system.

 

Check out  RC 2013 as their metal roof primer, which should be "Rolled On” the entire roof surface.

Then, (also rolled on), their Top coat RC 2014,  this step is Required.

 

I have been impressed with the surface adhesion of the RC 2000 products.

YOU, can solve this!

This sounds like a good process, especially that RC 2000 has anticorosion in it. I will check on this, thank you.

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