W7BE_Bob

Both of them. For the DS DPDT switch the 2 output wires have 12V with switch up and reverse polarity with switch down. How are these wires routed to the visor?. There are an additional 2 switch lugs for the dash lights which work. Are there any wiring diagrams or other suggestions? I haven’t checked the PS visor voltage/wiring which is more complicated with 2 switches and 2 relays labeled as PASS VISOR related. I did swap out the relays with no change. 2009 Septer 42’

Both of them. For the DS DPDT switch center off the 2 output wires have 12V with switch up and reverse polarity with switch down. How are these wires routed to the visor?. There are an additional 2 switch lugs for the dash lights which work. Are there any wiring diagrams or other suggestions? I haven’t checked the PS visor which is more complicated with 2 switches and 2 relays in the FRB labeled as PASS VISOR related.

The click could be a relay. Slides draw a lot of amps far exceeding the typical switch capability. Relays can handle the slide amps and provide a series locking mechanism that will allow one and only one slide to operate at the same time and there will be a large fuse for that circuit. There may also be a circuit board involved. Your problem suggests relay, circuit board, wiring or motor. I'd start by checking the motor power. It will have 12 in one switch position and opposite polarity in the other direction. A simple check that isolates electrical vs motor. Also don't expect fuses to be labeled bedroom, perhaps slide, sf23, lights, etc etc. My FRB has 88 fuses with a variety of labels.

4 failed starters doesn't pass the smell test. Some far out thoughts: You have a cable problem and not a starter problem. Replacing the starter involves removing cables. Replacing the starter moves the cables and hence it was clearly a starter problem? Unseen corrosion especially near a battery can occur under the insulation. When the failure occurs have you tried jumping directly to the starter? It could also be the wiring that activates the starter solenoid. Replace the battery to starter cable, battery to frame grouud cable and engine block to frame ground cable. You replaced the batteries 2 years ago - did the problem start after that? Just wondering. Correct battery installed? What does 12.4V load test mean? Starting draws a lot of amps and the battery will drop well below 12.0V. The purpose of a starting battery load test is to simulate the start. Have a good battery store check the battery and that’s not a auto store. Does your charger charge the chassis battery as built? Some do some don't. Or has it been modified? Just hard to imagine that being plugged in is related but thought I’d ask. Don't let storage people start the MH without you. Why? Because you are clueless about what they did/encountered which might be a clue to help diagnose. RVs have loads that can't be turned off, hence the battery discharges. It might be hard to start or they might jump it. Have your eyes and ears on the start.

OK, Caught up on the requirement being dropped for RVs. Every state has it's traffic laws and there is no reciprocity for out of state drivers for those laws. I suspect that if it's legal to impose smog restrictions on visiting commercial trucks then it will also be legal for other vehicles. A 3 day exception for commercial trucks would be a problem for many turcks. Those proposed RV restrictions may just be on hold for another day.

Dennis, Hope you are right about the legal part but I'll still be going to CA. Not defending CA but they have set the standard for smog etc for the entire nation and the states and companies complied with much complaining.

My 09 Scepter does not have a CPU and hence I was under the impression that any replacement just required dip switch settings. Is this correct?

Interesting reading. Part 3 indicates a followup, anyone have a link? The article indicates that additional testing with better equipment is planned. I checked several meter readings in part 3 and while volts increase and amps decrease and with the autoformer there is about a 30W loss of power in the autoformer which reflects the good efficiency of a transformer. However the autoformer consumes power of course and his numbers indicate about 30W. That power increase is not free for metered sites and/or the CG. How this all effects the utility company and the NEC is not clear to me. The articles ignore the power factor which is another aspect of the overall picture.

Are those weights with full cargo, fluids and passengers and at ride height? Any way to shift cargo to better balance the drive axle? What about the side to side weight on the other 2 axles? Given your weights inflate all drive axle tires to the heavest side, ie 95psi 11,400lb. Ditto for the other axles. This is the tire manufactures recommendation. No consideration for lifting the tag as that is temporary and at low speeds only. I would use the mfg spec'd tire. My tire guy said moving wheels on the same side would result in the maring of the current outside of the alloy rims by the drum. Only option is to unmount/remount the tires. No thanks.

Steer 14150, drive 19150, tag 5,000. Since the steer and drive are within a few hundred pounds of maximum the tag can't be changed.

Do some research on Crown but I believe it is the best battery available, and with a good price I'd jump on it. My 4x GCs Lifelines were installed 2011. Marine batteries (don't be fooled by the Marine Deep Cycle label) are compromised starting batteries. Truck batteries are starting batteries. Neither have the design/durability of deep cycle batteries, Both are good for pedestal to pedestal use. 12V deep cycle batteries are rare and expensive which is one reason GCs are popular.

With high pressure I can use high or low pressure appliances. Use whatever amount of propane I want without being concerned with the RV regulator. I can use a Y for say BBQ and propane firepit (55,000 BTU) together plus the RV w/o concern. No modification of propane devices needed. A neighbor with a empty tank needs to BBQ - meet someone new. While there is a standard low pressure amount I don't know that all devices with their regulator use the same low pressure. Maybe but some devices say to use THEIR regulator for whatever technical or marketing reason.

My high pressure BBQ adapter includes the external tank port. Plus I can connect to any BBQ that needs either high pressure or low pressure. Low pressure propane fittings are common on RVs and you may need to remove thte BBQ regulator as the use of 2 regulators may give inconsistent propane pressure. This is my high pressure adapter with a El (for hose routing considerations) and a shutoff valve. The top external tank port is for additional external tank. The BBQ connector is the standard 1 lb 1" screw on propane bottle type. https://i.imgur.com/9Dcdvkz.jpg Hoses with the standard 1” screw on adapters are available. And an adapter for the standard BBQ regulator fitting are available. Propane stores can also make custom length hoses however I use 1 or 2 12' hoses as needed. Here are the parts that connect to any grill with a external tank connector. https://i.imgur.com/6DF4wHul.jpg

Terry, If you're asking me click on the link in my signatrure. Removing ceiling fixtures allowed visibility to parts of the roof.

When I installed my solar I was able to flex the roof up and down where the panels were attached to the roof near the center because I now had something to pull up. This led to the discovery that the center sloped roof is not attached to the flat ceiling cross beams which are on 4' centers. It is attached where there is additonal structure like A/Cs and vents of course. Eventually I added long aluminum L brackets positioned fore/aft and secured them to the ceiling beams with 2.5" SS screws and then ran an additional support brackets to the panels.

First consider a inside routing through cabinets or closets or walls. I've routed wires through hollow inside walls and insulated outside walls, be creative and use switches, lights etc that can help gain access. Cabinet panels may be decorative and can be removed. Mine are attached with brads and glue and come right off. Reattached with screws, no visible wires. For my rear cap I'd remove the camera and use mirrors, lights, small cameras to determine wire routings. Lacking that I'd drill a small hole on top and probe with a wire to determine it opens down. Use a straight probe to determine about where it will reach the bottom. Drill a hole in the bottom. Drop a metal object on a string and use a magnet to bring it to the bottom hole. Use needle nose pliers, wires with a hook or whatever to get the string. Talk to an alarm installer about techniques. Consider 4' drills, 8' fiberglass (1/8" diameter) wire pulls. Think outside the box and be creative. The "best" routing for me was midships through cabinets into the basement storage for the CC etc. Short 4ga wire run to the inverter which has long 4/0 wires to the rear batteries. This resulted in a 0.7V or 2% wire drop at 60A (CC max) from the panels to the batteries which is very acceptable. Plus the CC remote voltage sense makes that loss a non issue (or at least very acceptable) for battery charging. Plus consider that at 30A the wiring loss is half.

3x serial panels 9A at 120V. I used a 30A 240VAC A/C disconnect switch and disconnected both poles. A fuse is not needed. Not DC rated but that's not really a factor. 80A switchable CB on the battery side.

Y adapter safety concerns: The biggest concern is that ONLY one CB will trip leaving 120V available. This can be misleading since normally ALL 120V power is removed due to the use of a dual CB breaker. Another concern is overloading the adapter or pedestal neutrals when drawing from 30 to 50A on a non 240V pedesal. No issue with the RV 50A wiring. However the adapter 50A neutral is connected to both 30A plug neutrals and the current for each neutral is controlled by the impediance of each neutral and in this case the current may not be evenly spilt 50-50. For example one neutral prong is more tarnished and hence higher impediance and so one neutral is carrying 40A and the other 5A. This possible overload applies to the adapter and neutrals in the pedestal and may even apply to further upstream depending upon how the pedestal is wired. These 2 concerns are one reason CGs don't allow the use of the Y adapter. They usually don't understand any of the above. I was surprised when a CG suggested I use the Y adapter.

Clarification: If you are connected to a single 30A plug with an adapter there is NO need to disable load shedding and you can't exceed 30A period. If on the other hand you use the 30/30/50 Y adapter and the power is NOT 120/240V then you have 2 30A circuits or 60A available. You CANNOT OVERLOAD either circuit since its 30A breaker will trip. Howerver in this type of non compliant setup the neutral carries the sum of the hot leads and hence is overloaded if you draw 51 to 60A. But my understanding is that the EMS will detect non 240V and limit load shedding to 30A total which is why I started this thread about disabling the EMS. This was a result of a CG telling to use the Y adapter with their 2 30A plugs in the pedestal. If however the the pedestal is wired as 120/240 30A (known as split-phased) then the neutral carries the difference of the 2 hots or 30A maximum on the neutral lead. And as a result you have 30A available on each hot leg or 60A total. There are safety concerns using the Y adaper, however that have not been covered.

Thanks Larry and everyone else who helped on this thread. My 04 Endeavor had a 7500W gen with 2 x 120V circuits. ie 62A total. Monaco uses a special 4 wire cable with the neutral wire one size larger. This went from the gen to the ATS to the CP panel.

I installed a variation of the above. My rig has a 20A plug in the engine room to plug in thee engine block heater (yeah my cheap Monaco does not have a dash switch to activate the block heater). I added a circuit that can use this plug or and extension cord with 2 interior plugs in the closet and the front. The basic use of this circuit is for 2 ceramic heaters that gets it's power from the block heater circuit or an external extension cord. The front plug is under the CB panel so I could adapt a A/C circuit to use it. Some of Monacos wiring both AC and DC definitely show cost cutting measures. One for example is the inverter 20A AC plug output circuit which first goes to a GFCI. And then on to 17 other plugs throughout the RV. This is not a typo - 18 total plugs on that circuit.

My understanding is that 2x 30A plugs that are not 120/240V will result in the EMS selecting 30A and shedding when the total amps on the neutral exceed 30A. If it sees the 240V then the EMS selects 50A as there is no way to tell the difference between a 120/240V 30A circuit and a 120/240V 50A circuit. Is this not correct? But yes once 30A has been exceeded and shedding occurs circuits that are not shedded can draw amps so that the total exceeds 30A. I have several plug circuits that are not on the EMS. Just clarifying the details as I'll bypass the EMS by moving the wires.

For clarity I think you're saying the EMS relays are normally open and closed when AC power is initially available. Would removing the sensor from the neutral work since EMS would detect 0A and activate the relays? Just wondering as I would not do that and instead and bypass the relays. In my case the load wire length is adequate to move it to the panel CB. I knew someone would ask why. OK I have a reservation at a CG without 50A. The pedestal has 2x 30A plugs and they suggested using the 30/30/50 Y adapter. However they did not know if it was 2x 120V 30A or 120/240V 30A. I want a plan in place to bypass the EMS if necessary. I understand the potential safety issues associated with using that adapter but may want to run 2 A/Cs since this is for a summer day. The CG is on the Olympic Peninsula so it's not a given that it will be a warm stay.

What is the simplest way to disable load shedding? Would removing one of the neutral current sense wires give the desired result? This is for a temporary time and I'm looking for an option other than rewiring each of the 4 circuit hot lines.

Excellent catch and this type of meter is rather common. Clampons that read AC and DC amps are available at HD Lowes etc. If if says DC read on as it must also say DC AMPs. These under $100 meters are adequate for RV usage while better ones like Fluke are $300+. ie More accurate, faster reading and other features not generally needed for RV work. Amazon has a variety of meters under $50.