waterskier_1

Rob, yes mine is different. I have a WiFi (only) Router on the roof called Sky Pro. It only is a WiFi Repeater. There is no Cellphone or other internet connections to it. This unit interfaces with their WiiFiRanger Core. This is a WiFi router, LAN Router, and gateway for Internet (I use the Mobley). I just looked it up on the internet, and it is call obsolete or discontinued. I think WiFiRanger is trying to get the cell data access business also. Mine doesn't care (within design parameters - only certain models) which Cell "Hotspot" you use but it has to have USB for full functionality. Of course you can always point the WiFi portion to the WiFi Hotspot WiFi and distribute that as you would any other WiFi.

Jim, I am quite curious about what is being called "Alt Relay". Could this be the "Alt Fail Relay"? That would be the relay that provides a failure notification if the alternator fails. It really has nothing to do with the operation of the alternator - it is strictly a monitor function. I have tried to help the OP but he declines to provide pertinent info, instead option to swearing the alternator is fine. But it doesn't work. So it is not "Fine". I have helped many who have replaced their alternators with "equivalent" alternators. Many, particularly the Delco Duvac, will work. The problem is that the tech or mech doesn't know how to connect it. Monaco did some particular things with the alternator that are not the usual, and appear weird until you realize their objective. As Van as stated, if the Solid State Isolator, BIRD, or Big Boy is defective, the ML-ARC is a great option to repair of the existing circuitry. But I am not sure we can even assess that yet. Until the alternator is functioning correctly, it is premature to start replacing battery isolation devices, IMHO. If the OP would post the following, it will go a long way to help sorting out his issues. 1. The make and model number and any other identifying marking on the original alternator. 2. The number and color of "heavy" wires (larger than 6 gauge) and the number and color of smaller wires (less than 12 gauge). 3. The exact manufacturer, model, part number and any identifying marking of the replacement alternator. 4. Any wiring diagrams he may have or found for his specific installation. I will attempt to help if I receive this information. I believe that there is more than a single issue or problem. What many don't realize is that usually something causes an alternator to go bad. That is often because it's called upon to deliver more than rated current. That is often caused by either defective battery/cell or a short. Until that problem is rectified, replacing the alternator is futile. One very common problem I've found is that a battery or cell within a battery bank shorts out. That causes the battery voltage to be less than rated. The alternator senses this as low voltage, and the the voltage regulator turns up the output. If this output exceed a certain value (around 100 Amps for the solid state isolator to one bank) [note the 200 Amp rating is for max of 100 A to each bank] it can destroy the isolator. Even if it doesn't destroy the isolator, the output voltage of the alternator may reach 16-18 volts in an attempt to charge the defective battery. That voltage is high enough to take out electronics, (radio, engine control modules, trans control modules, even light bulbs). This is why I find it important to start at the alternator, even if the batteries are disconnected from the rest of the coach, and make sure that operation is correct. Then progress to the isolation circuitry. Of course, if there is the slightest suspicion that the battery (s) might be bad, a load test should be performed. The goal is to not destroy downstream units while troubleshooting. Once the alternator is found to be be working within specifications, then troubleshoot of additional problems can take palce. I'm attaching a very basic wiring diagram of how the alternator is connected to the tach and alt fail relay. This is from an older Dynasty, but it is still quite similar to what was used in the 2000's. Note that it does not show High Current output and isolators which is what was the primary difference in newer units. Tach, Speedo, Alt.pdf

Kind of a recap of what's been said. First, you model does get its Tach signal from the Alternator. Monaco used specific alternators to provide "extra" features. That is why it is so important to either rebuild or replace with EXACTLY the same alternator - otherwise you'll have some rewiring to do. Specifically, the Tach receives it's signal from a winding inside the alternator. The faster the engine turns, the higher the voltage on that single winding. This is internal to the alternator before all the windings are combined, and then regulated. Another "feature" Monaco used is the Duvac. This allows the alternator to sense the battery voltage remotely. In our case, this means after the battery isolator which affects the battery voltage. So, the alternator regulates voltage after the isolator. Most alternators will regulate at the output of the alternator (either internally or externally). This would be the incorrect voltage if an isolator is used. If you are reading voltage on the center terminal (Alternator terminal) of the isolator either the isolator is shorted, or the alternator has shorted diodes, or both. To help in troubleshooting, when the alternator was replaced, was the cause of damage investigated and repaired. A common cause of alternator replacement is due to the isolator shorting. A cause of the isolator shorting is often the batteries. Either the batteries develop a shorted cell, reducing the voltage of the battery, requiring the voltage regulator to increase output of the alternator, often above maximum to "charge" the low battery. Besides causing problems for the alternator, this often will cause more than design current to flow through the battery isolator, causing it to fail. Most of the isolators are rated at 200 Amps, while alternators are 160 Amps or sometimes 200 Amps. BUT, that isolator rating is for both sets of batteries. That is, 100 Amps maximum to house and 100 Amps maximum to chassis. If one of the banks attempts to draw more than the 100 Amps, the isolater is damaged. So, why did more current flow through the isolator? Bad Battery(s)? Or a short somewhere? It sounds like since the battery cutoff switch is getting hot that that switch is defective. It could be loose connections on the switch itself, but those switches are also prone to failure of the contacts. That is not likely to cause your excess current flow though. As stated above, that device in the picture is a Circuit Breaker. When they fail, it is usually an open (on current flows). But it could fail closed, which would remove protection from that circuit, but it would only be a problem if that circuit also had a problem causing it to draw excessive current. Regarding the guages, I can't answer, but I can say that IF something caused the old alternator to run at full output, it could have reached over 18 volts DC. I suspect that high voltage would not play well with the ECM, TCM, and other electronics. Also, the incorrect alternator, or more likely, an alternator (correct or not) incorrectly wired (because the mech/tech didn't understand how Monaco implemented the additional "features") could also cause damage to other electronics. It is interesting that no where did you mention getting an ALT FAIL (alternator failure) light. I wonder if someone also disconnected that "feature" at some point in time?

Richard, it's been a few years since I set mine up, but I'll try and help. First, you can't use an extender to do what you want. An extender extends the range (distance) but still uses the original device (in this case the Mobley) to "serve" (provide) each IP address. It is limited to issuing 5 IP addresses. You need to basically set up a new "network" with a router which will serve the IP address (using DHCP) and get it's IP address from the Mobley. Therefore the Mobley only has one device (the router) connected (as far as it knows). The router than provides all the needed IP address to whatever you want to connect to the internet. The best way to do this is to use the USB port on the Mobley to provide the IP address (internet connection) to the router. It can be done by WiFi, but is often slower. In order for this to work, the router need to have a Cell Modem USB connection and software. Many do. One of the popular ones is WiFiRanger. My current coach has that system, and it works great. But it is kinda expensive, but it does provide good user interface. On my previous coach I used a ASUS TM-AC1900 router. What you end up with is similar to a home network, but instead of the router getting the connection to the internet from the Cable company or the Telephone company, it gets it from the Mobley. Here is a website that I used to get things working. If you have more questions, let me know.

Guillermo, I now understand. I didn't know you were connecting a portable Dish Antenna to the Outside Input (that I call Cablevision). You did not show, but I knew that the Trackvision would not work for Dish (I'm not even sure it will work for DirectTV - I have no experience with DirectTV). I can see what you are doing. You are going through all this because you do not currently have an HDMI cable between the front and bedroom TV. This will work, and likely is how things were done 20 years ago. But they didn't have HD TV, Blu-Rays and the such back then. You will end up with Standard Definition (SD) signals in the Bedroom. If this is satisfactory, then go for it. But, what I did, and would recommend you at least consider, is running a single 40-ft HDMI cable through the Air Conditioning duct from the front to the rear TV. Then, you'll need different switching equipment, but you would be able to watch HDMI (High Definition) TV in the Bedroom. I'm not sure that cost would be much more, since you'll not need the RCA Converters, the RF Splitter, or the Fosmon 2-way Switch or the Switch Box, but would need a new 4 input 2 output HDMI switch/combiner. If this appeals to you, I can provide more info. There are also now HDMI to Coax transmitters/receivers which allow you to put HDMI on a coax cable at one end, and get it back off at the other end. This would allow you to use (maybe - depending on the quality of coax installed) your coax and still get HDMI to the bedroom without running a new HDMI cable. Bottom Line: If you are satisfied with Standard Definition (SD) TV in the Bedroom/Patio AND the existing coax from the outside bay (Cablevision) to the front is good enough quality for Dish Signals, then your design will work.

I really need more info to properly advise you. First, what are you planning on using for the audio portion of this system? Just the built-in speakers in the TVs themselves? This is important to know first, because many of us are using Audio/Video Receivers (AV Rcvr). The AV Rcvr has inputs for most all the devices you plan on connecting. With this scenario, you would run the HDMI outputs for the Direct TV and Dish TV boxes into the AV Rcvr. You would also run the HDMI output from the DVD player to the AV Rcvr too, along with any other HDMI or Component or Composite Audio/Video sources (like a computer). Then the AV Rcvr becomes your switch box. Of course this only works for the front TV. But your diagram only shows these sources going to the front TV. As far as Over The Air (OTA) TV signals, it seems that your original switch box will handle switching those signals between the Front and Back/Patio TVs as shown, other than it is not clear why you want the Exterior Input (Service Bay) which is typically connected to a park Cablevision system, going to your Dish Receiver. You can get OTA tuners for Dish that would allow you to record OTA stations on the Dish Receiver, if it is a DVR too. But I don't think that the OTA tuner will work with Cablevision Input. Regarding the devices you linked: The Fosmon HDMI device is a SWITCH, not a Splitter. A switch let you switch between one OR the other input to the output. A splitter lets you take a single input and divide (Split) it to two (or more) different devices. This mean that you will have to intentionally select either the Dish Box or the DirectTV box manually. It still will work as you have it in your drawing, if that is what you want to do. The Cimple RF modulator: I don't see this in your drawing, and I don't see a use for it in your system. Do you have something so old that it has RCA Jacks for the output that you want to use? The Magnadyne Switching Center: Do you currently have the switch box depicted in the drawing? If so, what more do you need? You show the device as basically switching between the OTA antenna signal and the Cablevision Input allowing the Front TV to watch one signal while the Bedroom/Patio TV can watch either the same signal or the other signal. Do you really think this will be useful? Generally, when someone connects to the Cablevision Input, they have no need to watch OTA TV. If there is no Cablevision, there is only OTA to watch. I'm not sure which OTA Antenna you have, but most have a switching between the cablevision input ant the OTA input along with an amplifier built in. If you don't have this, you might consider upgrading to a current OTA Antenna. The RF Splitter: It is not clear that you need this, because, as mentioned above, I'm not sure why you would want Cablevision signals to go to the Dish Rcvr. If you can clarify your thoughts on this, I can provide better analysis of how to accomplish it. Lastly, you mentioned that you have no idea how to connect the coaxial cables back as they were. I suspect that the problem is connections at the Switch Box, as that is where most of the cables are located together. The other end of the cables, those going to the bedroom or front TV and antenna and even the cablevision input (Service Bay) should be easier to locate. If you give me the year, I have modified (very crudely) your PDF to show how Monaco Typically connected the coax cables. I didn't change any of your HDMI cables. If you let me know about the AV Receiver, I'll suggest modifications to those. 1998 Dynasty_TVhookup1.pdf

After reading the battleborn description, I find this worse than a bandaid. The precision circuits description did not disclose how it accomplished the switching to maintain 80% to 100% charge. But the battleborn description of simply switching based on time is, to me, unacceptable. It says that the alternator is connected for 15 minutes. then disconnected for 20 minutes. and then repeats. If the Lithium batteries are quite depleted, they would destroy the alternator in 15 minutes when attempting to draw 100's of Amps. I'm sure there may be some Lithium batteries that have that sophisticated of a BMS, but it does not appear that the Battleborn batteries do. While their BMS will prevent severe discharging, and operation outside certain temperature conditions, they clearly state that the Bulk & Absorption voltage should be 14.2 - 14.6 Volts, with an Absorption time of 20 minutes. Then you should switch to Float at 13.6 Volts. They do NOT have any overcharge voltage built in, or at least they don't state that is the case. I doubt they do, or there would be no need to clearly specify the Bulk, Absorption and Float voltages.

The coach came with the 100W solar panel. It is of a different design than the other 10 Panels that were installed. Rather than take it down, or leave it disconnected, since it couldn't be incorporated into the house solar arrays, I connected it to the chassis battery. That way, with the Big Boy disconnected, I still can maintain the chassis battery - all for free. I would have to reconnect the Big Boy for the generator to charge the chassis batteries. I didn't want to have to open the engine hatch and connect/disconnect the Big Boy every time I arrived at a campsite/or RV Park. I believe what you stated about the Precision Circuits device is exactly how it works. The problem for me is that allows for an only 80% SOC condition when I stop driving, or stop shore power charging. That is less than ideal to me. It may be acceptable to you. As an Electronics Engineer, I find it more of a bandaid than a true solution. Ideally, I want all batteries to be at 100% SOC whenever I quit the charging process - whether it be from the Alternator, Shore/Genny Power or Solar Power. I do realize that is not always possible, but that is what I strive for.

I just check this device out. According to the manufacture the way they attempt to handle the problem of overcharging a Lithium battery is by disconnecting it from the charging source when it reached close to full charge. Then, as the battery is used, it lets it go down to about 80% SOC before it starts to charge it again. This "disconnect" applies to the Lithium batteries while going down the road with the alternator running (charging) OR it applies to the chassis battery when being charged by Shore Power with an appropriate Lithium battery charger. This allows for the case that when you arrive at your destination after driving, your house (lithium) batteries might be at only 80% to start with. It also allows for the chassis battery to be at only 80% when you get ready to leave after being connected to shore power. While that may be acceptable to some, it is really a band-aid to me. The reason they disconnect while being charged by the alternator is because the batteries require a "float" voltage of no more than 13.6 Vlots (Battlebone Lithium Spec). Instead of using some sort of Pulse Width Modulation (like very basic Solar controller do) or better a MPPT arrangement like better solar controllers do, to make a controller for the Lithium Float Voltage (reducing the incoming 14.2 -14.4 alternator voltage). To clarify the OPs question on the concern of using an alternator for charging Lithium batteries I'll offer the following: Per Battleborn Battery's Spec's the Bulk and Absorption voltage should be 14.2 - 14.4 Volts. This is just what an alternator is outputting; so far we're good. But it then states that the Absorption time should be set to 20 minutes. That's a really short trip for most of us. But the real problem is that once the battery is charged, you must reduce the voltage to the Float voltage of no more than 13.6 volts. This is where the problem with charging by an alternator manifests - the alternator does have a voltage regulator, but it isn't smart. It regulates the voltage to 14.2 -14.4 Volts, continuously (within it's design capabilities). So, what to do. I discussed some methods above. I believe the best solution, and I really don't think it's a far stretch, is to add solar. I think most who are considering adding Lithium batteries already have or plan to add solar. Most are doing this to enhance their dry camping abilities, and that would surely incorporate Solar. If you have a reasonable amount of solar power, you would simply use that to charge your house (Lithium) batteries while driving down the road or while camped. I currently do this even though I don't have Lithium house batteries. I have Lifeline AGM batteries. They are a bit more tolerant of seeing Absorption level (14.2 - 14.4+) volts over and extended period, but it doesn't do them any good. So, I have disabled my Big Boy from charging the house batteries. I've got it wired so I can still connect both the chassis and house batteries together with the the dash "boost" switch if needed. This also keeps my chassis battery from being charged by the Inverter/Charger (or, in my case, the main solar systems (I have 3 - two for the house - the original controller could only handle 50 Amps so I had to add another, and one for the chassis). So, my chassis battery is charged by the original 100 Watt solar panel Monaco provided. The house batteries are charged by the remaining panels. Using this system, I do have to be aware of solar availability. If necessary, I can quickly re-engage the Big Boy system. Sorry for the long post. Hopefully if you understand the charging requirement, you can see the problems and then potential solutions.

Ed, a couple things to consider. First, if you go with a larger (more wattage) Inverter/Charger, you will likely have to rewire. You'll need to increase the wire size from the batteries to the inverter/charger to accommodate the 50% increase in power. You may also have to rewire the output 110 VAC side as well to accommodate for additional current and possibly additional circuits. Note that you likely have two 110 VAC outputs from you inverter now (one for the microwave and one for all the inverter supported outles). Some of the new higher power inverter/chargers only have a single output, but likely rated higher. Many have had to add an inverter output sub panel. This is not hard if you only want the same functionality as you currently have. But if you want to add or divide circuits then rewiring is more extensive. Also, you may have to replace the Circuit Breaker in your existing power panel with a larger one and new wiring from that circuit breaker to the inverter input to support the potential greater charger and pass-through capacity. Regarding the hybrid function, it is not much use in our coaches. Where it really come into play is where ALL AC is routed through the Inverter. That would include the A/Cs (air cond) too. In that case, if the shore power wasn't sufficient to support all the power you were requesting, then you could draw from the batteries to supplement. But, that would be only useful for temporary power surges. For example if a second A/C tried to start, and that would trip a breaker under typical conditions, the inverter could supply the extra surge temporarily until the A/C got up to speed. I'm not saying that the function only works for a temporary condition, but remember in order to supply that extra power, it must consume that from your batteries. You don't really want to run your A/C all day on your batteries. You are correct that he will have to pay to replace the power he used by using batteries to supply the inverter at some point in time. He is fooling himself. Someone also mentioned that having the hybrid function saved his computer from rebooting. That is more likely due to the new inverter and faster switching than the hybrid function. For it to be associated with the hybrid function, that computer would have to be on the inverter power (not pass-thru) when the switching occured.

I'm coming in on this late, and it seems that your problem is fixed, but I think your batteries when not being charged would be below 12.9 volts. Trojan 6-volt wet cell (T-105) common house battery is 100% charged at 12.74 Volts. Lifeline AGMs spec their fully charged batteries after sitting with nothing connected for 4 hours after charge at 13.0 volts. So, with a nominal charge, it would like be below 12.9 and the LE-415 should be disconnected. If you are reading over 12.9 Volts, do you maybe have solar assisting?

I had to replace the window in the door of my Dynasty due to fogging. I took it to my local auto glass company. They removed the frame with the window, and put heavy plastic in place temporarily. They then removed the glass, and used it as a template to cut the new glass. This was dual pane window. After the cut the two panes of glass, the had to send the panes to Denver to get them tempered. They didn't have the ability to temper glass. That took the longest, about a week to get the panes back from Denver. Then they installed the new panes of glass in the frame and that back in the door. I think the total cost was less than $300. If you live somewhere they temper cut glass, the time would be much less. Bottom Line: Don't overlook a good auto glass company.

If you have a "big boy" (I think you do) I suspect that it's the problem. Likely the contacts but could be the control circuit. - Rick N 2005 Exec, DD Series 60 2014 JGC Overland Diesel Currently: Casa Grande, AZ

Hi all, I write for a friend who has a 2005 HR Ambassador. He had an alternator failure and had it replaced. All was fine (no alarm) until around 30 miles down the road when he stopped to fill propane. When he started the engine, the Alt Fail light and buzzer-audible alarm started. I am trying to help him, and have reviewed the schematics, but he doesn't have any drawing on where, physically on the coach, the ALT FAIL Relay (6-volt 87A type) is located - or the fuse going to it. Is there anyone with a similar rear-radiator coach that can help? BTW, this condition is with ONLY the engine running. The know problem of running the engine and another charge source (shore power or generator) in NOT applicable in this case.Absent that, does anyone know where the alarm buzzer is physically located such that he can drive the coach without the loud alarm going? Maybe even how to silence it...like a fuse or plug. He and I are aware of the consequences of disconnecting the alarm buzzer, and he is accepting the risk that another alarm might go unnoticed. TIA, -Rick N. 2005 Exec, DD Series 60 2014 JGC Overland Diesel Currently: Casa Grande, AZ

Jason, a couple thoughts. First, since it runs fine with a full tank, and as fuel is used, the problem worsens, I wonder if it might be a fuel pump wearing out? Maybe the "head pressure" of a full tank allow the pump to make sufficient pressure, but as fuel is used, it can't provide the requisite pressure. Second, maybe if you connected a separate, external fuel tank directly to the generator, you could eliminate fuel line problems. Good luck -Rick N. 2005 Exec, DD Series 60 20q4 JGC Overland Diesel Currently in Casa Grande, AZ

Richard, I think I understand what you said regarding zone 2 of the AH. I'm going to re-phrase to make sure I got it. It sounds like the zone 2 Circ Pump is always running, acting as the stir pump, and also at ready for when the bay thermostat call for heat and also for when the bath thermostat calls for heat. If correct, I think my system is similar. I just don't have the bath thermostat, but instead a switch to turn on the fan for the heat exchanger. It's kinda manual, but I have rarely used bath heat. In my floor plan, it is in the toilet room with the sink. The shower is across the hall where I would think you'd more likely want additional heat. If all this is correct, then it seems like the AH Zone 2 pump is always running. Can you shut it off with the bath zone t-stat? I don't see a way to turn mine off other than to pull the fuse to the Aquahot itself. Regarding the Heat Pump, I'm not quite sure what I said, but what I meant was when I put the t-stat in Aquahot Mode, it no longer also engages the roof HeatPump. That was the original problem - both ran at the same time. I can select with the Mode switch HP or Cool or Fan only or Auto (never used that). I have read that if you select Heat Pump and it gets too cold, it will automatically switch to aquahot (or furnace). I have never tried this. In fact, I just don't use the Heat Pump at all....too noisy and I have the larger AquaHot with two heat elements, so as long as I have 50Amp I can get by on heat with aquahot (if not too cold...in which case I switch to diesel). I thank you so much for helping me better understand how zone2 of the Aquahot works. I wonder how hard it would be to connect that to Zone 2 of my thermostat so I could Kill the pump when it's winterized and sitting in storage.

Interesting. If you have two thermostats on the same zone, which one has priority? I honestly thought I should have a zone 2 on a thermostat inside too, but then convinced myself that there would only be one on a zone. I have the larger 600D, but it's was replaced by a PO. Therefore, I'm not sure if the replacement is correct or not. I really think I should have a way to kill the zone 2 circ pump without having to pull the fuse for the aqua-hot to kill everything. >>>I just performed a reset, and I now have Aqua-Hot without the Heat Pump. I'm not sure if all else is working, since it's now 23F degrees out and way to cold to have either A/C or the HP work. But, I'm hopeful!

Richard, Thanks for your insight. You have it correct. I noticed that I didn't have a Aqua-hot Zone 2 on either thermostat (each just has zone 1 - only 2 total A/C's) last fall. I was in the basement just forward of the Aqua-hot installing another solar controller, and I hear the circulation pump running on the Aqua-hot. I saw that zone 2 was enabled on the control panel. I went inside to turn it off, and couldn't find any way to do so. Ultimately, to keep the pump from running all the time (I didn't have the Aqua-hot turned on so there was no how antifreeze) I turned the thermostat in the bay to max temp. That shut it off, at least for that day. I haven't returned that thermostat to normal position, since I'm still winterized - I won't unwinterize until I get to Arizona. But you bring up another question. From what I understand, you have two thermostats on Aqua-hot Zone 2? One inside for the bath, and one outside in the bay? Or don't you have a thermostat in the bay to turn on heat for the water pump/manifold, etc.? -Rick N.

Upon further checking, I found that when I select Aqua-hot, BOTH the Aqua-hot and the the Heat Pump come on. For now, I think I can temporarily fix this by simply throwing the A/C breaker for the rear A/C. I haven't tried yet, because I was trying to warm things up a bit before I extend the bedroom slide, and then can get to the closet to load, but also the Breaker Panel. Still curious if anyone has experienced something like this. It may not be unique to the 10-button remote, since both are coming on, it could happen with the older remotes too. Not sure if it's a wiring problem or thermostat problem. When I get settled, I can try switching out the thermostats, front to rear, and see if the problem remains or if it transfer to the front...might lead to some additional info. -Rick N.

Hello all. I'm having a curious problem. I'm getting ready to head to AZ and have had the front area on Aqua-hot to maintain a min of 50F degrees. Today, I was starting to do the major loading, and went to the rear thermostat (both thermostats are Dometic 10-button units), and selected FURN (Aqua-hot) and the Heat Pump came on. I'ts only 33F degress here, so I know it won't work on heat pump. But no matter if I select Heat Pump or Furnace, only the Heat Pump starts. I know last winter the Aqua-hot worked fine, so even though the PO replaced the old thermostats (and A/C's) with 10-button t-stats, I know they worked. So, what would cause this? I'm headed out now to reset the t-stat, and then see if the dip switches are in the correct places, but I can't imagine how they could have changed. My current set-up may not be standard. The front t-stat controls the front A/C and also Aqua-hot. The rear t-stat controls the rear A/C and also Aqua hot. Each only have one zone. The center is controlled (best I can tell) by the basement t-stat in the bay, which also controls the bath heat. There is no separate bath temp control, only an on/off switch for the bath cozy register. Anyone have any ideas or experience something like this before? I hate to tear everything apart - plus I don't really have the time, I'm planning on leaving Sunday. -Rick N. 2005 Exec, DD Series 60 2014 JGC Overland Diesel Colorado Springs, CO

Warren B. Yes, these are two different groups. The one Jim and I are talking about, and the one the OP asked about is the Monacoer Group (named after B. D's Monacoers Yahoo Group). The group you posted about a different internet forum group; iRV2. As you acknowledged, in your original post, it is an iRV2 group for Monaco Owners. That said, there are likely many many (50-100's) other groups whose owners have or used to have Monaco coaches there during the RV Show. There are expected to be 150, 000 people at Quartzsite during the RV Show that runs Jan 18 - Jan 26, 2020. -Rick N.

For Monacoers North Plomosa Rd site, Ron Farrar will be arriving on Jan 15 or 16, I'll be arriving on Jan 17. Ron's email is ron at allphasecircuits dotcom. Mine is waterskier1 at gmail dot com. I'll try and have a sign "Monacoers" at the turnoff of Plomosa Rd, but if you go past Mile Marker 4, you went too far. Here is a link to Google Maps of the location. Hope the link works. 'Rick N 2005 Exec, DD Series 60 2014 JGC Overland Diesel Colorado Springs, CO

Bob L, This company presented their product to Monaco International Rally in Las Vegas last spring. It come from Europe, I think they said Germany. They stressed their "money back" warranty. When I asked what the warranty covered, just the cost of their product or the cost of damage due to their product not performing, they weren't sure.... had tmo check with offices in Europe. I surmise it will cover the cost of the product only. I could sell you a roll of toilet paper for$500, and if I sold just two, I could refund your$500 and still be$490 ahead, just playing the old you never have a fire. They stressed that money back warranty so much... "you have nothing to lose" - other than my coach, if it fails. The marketing turned me off. That said, I have no personal experience with their products. Just don't let the money back warranty influence your decision. Rick N 2005 Exec, DD Series 60 2014 JGC Overland Diesel Colorado Springs, CO

Thanks Denise, that is what I was looking for!

Is there any way to select to get every post emailed to me, like in the old Yahoo Group. I recognize that I can click on "follow", but I can only do that (it seems) from the website. I need to know that something is posted so I can follow. --Rick