waterskier_1

WOW, it is amazing how many responders on this thread don't know that the RV 50-Amp service is indeed 220 Volts @ 50 Amps. Granted nothing in the coach is wire to require 220 (possible exception some newer coaches with 220 Dryers). In the main power panel you'll have one leg, L1 and another leg, L2. Each measure 120 VAC to neutral, or 220 VAC between each other. You really have the equivalent of 110 VAC @ 100 Amps (50 Amps per side or leg. The RV 30-Amp service is 110 VAC @ 30 Amps. The L1 & L2 are connected together to supply both sides of the power panel, but you can draw only a total of 30-Amps. If you properly (see Tom's post above) to a Dryer 30-Amp circuit, (which is 220 VAC), you will have 30-Amps on each side of the main power panel which yield a total of 60-Amps @ 100 VAC--- twice what a typical RV 30-AMP connection would provide.

My manual specifically states to ensure that the engine preheat is OFF when the engine is running. The rationale is the engine pump is much stronger than the preheat circulation pump and could damage the preheat circulation pump. I've forgotten a couple times when first firing up the engine, but soon notice as I'm checking gauges during warmup.

Hi all - I went out this morning, started there engine thill air up and pulled I'll the jacks. After final loading I checked, and the Travel light was on. So I left to try and best the storm. After checking occasionally and seeing the Travel light was on, after about 4 hood I noticed it was off. Later it was back on. And the remaining 3 hours it was off and on. I noticed nothing that would cause it, nor did I noticed any difference in the ride. It 15⁰F now & snowing. I hope thill be in Pkoenix tomorrow & well look more into these problem. I reminds me on a simple loose connection, but I'm not sure where. Thank you to all who responded, and I'll post an update on a couple days. -Rick N.

I'm not sure what you mean by "use". Obviously I'll no be trying to level the coach going down the road. Do you mean the system will not function if the travel mode light is not lit? I must admit I don't knots a lot about Travel mode. My previous 97 Dynasty has air suspension, but no "Travel Mode" but no air leveling either. Since the suspension seems to air up, what else happens in Travel Mode? I though it simply took it out of leveling mode.

I went out to hitch up the towed to get ready to depart tomorrow for Arizona and my coach won't go into TRAVEL mode. I have the HWH Leveling System, but rarely use it to level - I use my hydraulic jacks instead. Yesterday, I fired up the engine and brought up the suspension and achieved TRAVEL mode so I could run the slides out to finish loading. Brought the slides back in and then leveled. My parking space at home is not perfectly level, plus I like dropping it as low as possible so I don't have a huge step up to the first step. This morning I went to move it to hook up the towed, and I believe the suspension aired up and should have been in TRAVEL mode, but I never got the Green Travel light. Anyone know the inputs to the systems that must be satisfied for the system to go into TRAVEL mode? I have air pressure, tried with and without the parking brake (but yesterday it worked with parking brake on). Anything else I can check to see if there is a reason it's not going into Travel mode, besides the "brain" malfunctioning? What are the implications of driving when the TRAVEL light is not lit, but the suspension has air (I can tell it aired up from the "dump" position). Thanks, -Rick N. 2005 Exec, DD Series 60 2014 JGC Diesel

This is not quite true. Granted there is both a maximum forward voltage and reverse voltage at any diode can withstand, that is the purpose if the resistor. Also, please realize that LED stands for Light Emitting Diode. It is a diode, so putting another on in series is either redundant at best, and if put in the opposite direction, the LED would not work. That said, most LED's operate on 1.5 - 2.0 volts. That means that you will be dropping 118 volts (assuming 120 VAC circuit) which is 98% of the voltage. If the diode draws 20 mA (0.020 Amps) that means that the resistor would be around 5.9K Ohms. That resistor would be dissipating about 2.5 Watts which is just wasted energy. There are devices on the market that use electronic circuits to drive LEDs from high voltage (greater than 20 volts). Or, as other have suggested, use a neon or incandescent bulb.

I can't answer the "size" question. Are you asking about physical mounting size? Or output current rating? It is best to rebuild your existing alternator since Monaco used a Duvac system on many of their coaches for remote battery sensing and also had terminals for monitoring the alternator (Alt-Fail circuit). I am quite sure it's NOT a smart alternator - those are designed to put minimum load on the engine, to supply only what is absolutely necessary, and certainly would not change additional batteries. They are controlled by the auto interface. You don't want one, eccentric if they made one in the size for your coach. Note that new car charging systems are designed to "maintain" a battery, not to recharge a dead one like in the old days. A DC-DC charger simply takes one DC voltage and change it to a different DC voltage. Tree new voltage can be higher or lower, and may have special regulation on the output. It doesn't care what kind of even IF you have an alternator - all it wants (needs) is the appropriate voltage on the input. In your case, that would likely be the chassis battery voltage. Granted you will need some way to maintain that voltage (alternator or battery charger) but the DC-DC charger doesn't care how you maintain the input voltage.

You need a permit . f you stay in the in the 14- day area north of town, it is free. If you want longer stay, though can go south of town for $40 for two weeks or $180 for unlimited access between September and April (seven months).

There is also a Monacoers Group that has been meeting for years north of town at the Plomosa Road BLM area. This is what has, in the past, been called the "Lew Crash & Burn" area. Ron Farrar and I will be there, whether the Big Show go on or not. There are several that have indicated they will be there too. While this started as a "Monaco" group camp, it is open to all other brands, and also trailerables. I think Ron will post more details but most of us will be there the same time the show is scheduled, and some will arrive early, and some will stay longer. Here is a link to a Google Map of the location (we try to stay in the same general area). Let me know if you have any questions. Should have selected Satellite View for better reference.

It looks like the ceiling was installed before the cabinets. If he is planning on removing the cabinets I think 6 hours is on the low side. I'm not sure you're you could replace the vinyl & foam without remodel of the cabinets, but I'm not an auto upholstery guy.

Please explain how the transfer switch would have anything to do with a 12 VDC alternator charging issue.

I don't know where the Aladdin gets its voltage sample from. I've gone through all my wiring diagrams, and can't find anything, but I don't have a diagram for the ECM. The wiring diagram shows the dash voltmeter does not get its sample from the ECM. If you monitor the difference, you might find it easier to just add 0.5 Volts to the dash and Aladdin mentally, assuming all else is working. Forgot to answer about voltage vs engine RPM. Yes, the voltage will increase up to about 1400 RPMs. All alternators work this way and that does not indicate a problem. I think your real problem has to do with the intermittent voltage drop with will be hard to find since it will have to be acting up to troubleshoot. That is not a common failure mode of alternators.

First, that is not your transfer switch. It looks like the salesman switch relay. Can you check the voltage to ground on both the large terminals, individually? They should be the same. The green charging light only indicates that the charger is charging the batteries. The other circuit breakers on the inverter are for 110 VAC, so that isn't likely the problem. If it isn't that relay in your first picture, then next I would look at the manual disconnect (switch) near the batteries.

Those numbers are what one should expect. Yes, they do vary by RPM by design of the alternator. I didn't want to confuse the issue by changing the RPM until I got the results. I feel very safe saying there is nothing wrong with the alternator. I don't see a problem with the batteries. I'm guessing you thought there was a problem because of the remote readings. That's why I had you check right at the batteries. I thing you have a poor connection somewhere between the batteries and where ever those devices are reading voltage. I think it is likely a ground based on all the bad grounds reported on Monacos. Remember that tree current that makes its way via wires to the load, has to make it back to the negative terminal of the battery. That's accomplished via a wire from the load to (usually) a point on the metal chassis. As far as the lowers readings you experienced, it is poisonous tag the house batteries were needing sufficient charging, but normally the Big Boy would drop them off the alternator when the voltage got that low.

I think my old Cummins used a 1/2" breaker bar - I say that because I don't have a 3/4" breaker bar. I may have found another way around it, but don't recall it being a show stopper. That was a 325 in my old Dynasty. Please take pictures and mark the wires. I can't tell you how many mechanics have reconnected them wrong.

I'm assuming you are talking about chassis battery voltage since you mention dash & VMSpc. Aladdin shows both chassis & house. It is doubtful that it is the Big Boy, as it only fictions to connect the two battery sets together. Since you are driving, and looking at chassis voltage, the Big Boy is unlikely the problem. That leaves the alternator or the chassis batteries. This also assumes you don't have some unusual load on the system that want there when comparing readings before. First, turn off all accessories, blowers, lights, etc., then with the engine running, measure the voltage as close to the alternator output as possible. This may be the chassis battery itself. This should be above 14.0 (typically 14.2 - 14.4) VDC. Measure to a good ground and also across the battery itself. The readings should be the same. If you get over 14.0 VDC, then the alternator is likely good. You can confirm by adding a load, headlights as example, and the voltage, at the battery, should remain fairly constant. If you don't have 14.0 VDC at the chassis battery, I'd do a load test on the batteries first (usually the easiest) to ensure the batteries are good. If they are good, next I'd test the alternator. There is a procedure to test on the vehicle, if you have good access to the alternator (no rear radiator). Some find it easier to remove the alternator and take it in for testing.

Jim, if you have a system similar to what Harvey describes, then I can see how the solar would effect the Alt Fail signal. I think you have confirmed that you have no problems with the actual charging and monitoring system that needs attention, by disconnecting the solar when running the main engine. Another thing that may have done to eliminate this false error is to turn on the headlights. That additional drain will usually fix the false error, without having to disconnect the solar. I haven't experienced this problem with my coach, even though I have one 100 Watt (the original Monaco) solar panel connected only to the chassis battery. But, I also have a way to isolate my chassis and coach batteries so that the alternator does NOT charge (or over charge) my coach batteries. Remember that I have 1400 Watts of solar, 1300 Watts just for the coach, so I don't need 14.2 Volts from the battery playing bulk charging for 8 hours while driving down the road. You likely don't have to worry about this, just trying to explain what's going on. So, if you chassis and coach batteries are not 80% or more charged, when you start the main engine, the solar charger may be in bulk (trying to charge as much as possible to 14.4 Volts) or in Absorption (where it holds 14.4 Volts until current drops below around 1-5 Amps). That would present 14.4 volts to the alternator regulator, which is trying to drop it down to below 14.2 volts (Note: this values are representative, not actual for your coach). This will lead to the Alt Fail circuit falsely detecting an engine alternator problem. Again, this is more often seen with people who are running their generators down the road to run roof A/C, but that generator also powers the inverter/charger, and, again depending on both batteries state of charge, may provide more voltage to the chassis battery than the engine alternator regulator wants to see. I went into more detail than you probably wanted to know, but did so for other reading this so they might know the why behind the mysterious ALT FAIL signal error and what causes it. I really don't recommend bypassing (removing the ALT FAIL Relay from the FRB) as a solution. It's better to either turn on the headlights (driving lights if you have them) or, as you say, turn off solar when driving.

David, thank you so much! This does explain some of the mystery. I'm still at a loss as to how this worked for 2 years without that fuse, or if it did have the fuse, where it went. Even if it could "fall" out (not likely since it is mechanically held in) where did it go? The RRB has a cover over it. It should have been laying in the bottom (not) of the RRB if it fell out. I did not go into the engine hatch since it last ran 2 weeks prior. I also looked to see if it also had the fuses that George C has on the frame rail. I was hoping there may have been parallel paths, since he point about needing to start and run the engine to move the chassis around before the "house" was built makes sense. I doubt I'll ever fully solve the mystery. But I do now know that the missing fuse was the cause of it not running, and the insertion of that fuse was not just coincidental. David, do you have any wiring diagrams showing the engine wiring harnesses to the ECM and the starter solenoid for this version? Also, how did you get these updated drawings? I have an original spiral bound wiring diagram manual which I believe to be the one that came with coach when new. Is there somewhere I can go (I know Monaco is not around, and don't think REV will try) to get updated drawings and documentation? Again, thanks for clarifying this issue.

Jim, I don't have any wiring diagrams for your era model coach. I've been looking at some older ones, and I can only find the battery boost relay. That should only connect the batteries together when the boost switch is pressed. I don't see anything about the alternator charging circuitry in the drawings I have. Do you remember seeing a solid state isolator? It would have 3 heavy red wires, one from the alternator, one from the chassis battery and one from the house batteries.

Thanks. I would really like to find someone who has some fashion of wiring diagrams or schematics so I know what's going to what.

Yes, but that is a one-way connection. That is, the alternator can charge the house batteries, but the house batteries can't get back to the chassis system (so they won't drain the chassis battery). The higher end coaches did have a bi-directional system (BIRD) that basically did connect the two banks together, once one of the banks exceeded a specific voltage (around 13.5 volts). That gave priority to charging the battery the charging source was connected to first, then once that battery was charged, it would allow charging of the secondary source. But I don't think your coach came with that system, unless you have modified it.

Mine is a 2005 DD Series 60 electronic engine. My mechanic said he wasn't aware of an external fuel shutoff - that the electronic engines didn't need that since they controlled the fuel with the injectors. So, is mine considered old or new? If new, I'm still baffled what that 5A fuse feeds (controls)?

Jim, I'm not sure how you connected your solar system. Most connect to the house batteries only. Unless you have added something to your Knight, they didn't charge the chassis battery from shore/generator/solar power. What you are describing is a known phenomenon with Monaco coaches when there are two different charging sources, one being the main engine alternator. Usually this is reported by people who are running their generator at the same time while motoring down the road. It is not something to be concerned about, once you confirm the second source. It seems you have done that, and it is solar. I'm wondering if you intended to connect the solar to the chassis battery, versus the house battery. Or do you have some additional way to charge both the house and chassis batteries from shore/generator/solar?

Thanks. That is opposite of what I think mine are. The LEFT 5 Amp ENGINE fuse was missing, and it would crank, but no fuel. So I'm thinking the 5 Amp is for the fuel solenoid, and the 30 Amp is for the starter circuit, but I'm not sure why it takes 30 Amps. That's not enough to power the starter, and the starter solenoid shouldn't take anywhere near that current. Do you know where the Fuel solenoid is physically located?

Do you have both ENGINE Fuses installed? Can you post, or email me at waterskier_1 at yahoo dot com any documentation you have on this board?