waterskier_1

People, let's open our minds a bit. First, "Hughes Autoformer" is the company name, not the product. Years ago, back in the 60's they were known primarily for their Voltage Transformer which many called an "Autoformer" or "Autotransformer" but that is more like people calling all facial tissue "Kleenex". Second, Hughes (short for Hughes Autoformer, the Company) has introduced a line of Surge Protectors that many consider in direct competition to Progressive Industries. Their PDW Series do have Open Neutral Protection with Shut Off. I've had many RVers ask how they compare to Progressive Industries units. That is what brought my attention to this line, since as an old Ham Operator (over 50 years) I'd only heard of their voltage transformers. I've tried to get real technical data (engineering type) information from them, but have not received any as yet. There is a chart on this website that shows some of the technical details. This posting and the reviews contained within are talking about Autotransformers (Voltage Transformers) NOT the Hughes Surge Protectors. Yes, made by the same company, but not the same product. I started the review referenced and found that this guy has just enough electrical knowledge to be dangerous. He claims that in a purely resistive circuit, as the voltage decreases so does the power, meaning that the resistance changes as a function of voltage. This is not true. Resistance in a purely resistive circuit is not affected by voltage - it remains constant. He eludes that there would be no such thing as a "brownouts" because as the voltage dropped, so would the power and current. We know this isn't true. In any case, those articles have nothing to do with the surge protector line from Hughes. I have no connection with Hughes, and my comments are submitted only to clarify incorrect assumptions that the only product Hughes makes is the Voltage Transformer, and therefore all comments related to Hughes are applicable to all their product line.

Richard's post reminded me that I had to change the routing of the wires from the side to the back also. It's been a while, and I think I knew that when I ordered them - I simply drilled a hole through the back.

I had a similar problem with my 97 Dynasty. I was able to gently pull out enough to see the wires the pigtails were crimped to. Yes, they are, for the most part, wired in parallel. The were some, lower on the sides, that also flashed with the turn signals. Those are much more problematic, since they are fed one direction when the markers are not on, to light the bulb, and another direction when the markers are on, to extinguish the bulb. LED's will not work bi-directional. There are work around, but it's not easy. First check if and which bulbs flash with the turn signals, and then decide if you really want to replace those specific lights with LEDs.

I suspect Bill D was referring to the original Hughes Autoformer's Voltage Booster, since their weren't even designed back then. In case you are not aware, Hughes Autoformer has a line of Surge Protectors also. They do sense Neutral Open, along with High or Low voltage and most of the things that the Progressive Industries has. I don't own a Huges, or have any interest in the company. I am finding a lot of people are asking about them, since they are more affordable than the Progressive units. So, unless you can provide objective criteria (I'd be quite interested) in why they should be unilaterally relegated to the Anchor Locker, I suggest you do some research first.

There are lots of possibilities but first (and easiest) is to check the output ditching breakers on the inverter. I know you said you reset the inverter, but I think that was the input circuit breaker.

I'll operate my microwave for short period of time (less than a couple minutes) during the day, when I have 1400 Watts of solar feeding it. In this case it's more of how long does it take to replenish the energy consumed at a later time, versus will it be destroyed. I've never heard of a microwave being damaged simply by MSW, and I'm sure they were intended to be used off the inverter since many have a dedicated inverter circuit specifically for the microwave. I would not run it after dark though, when I was using battery power, because I'd likely have to run the generator to replenish the batteries before bedtime if I did...in which case I'd just run the generator when I needed the microwave.

Tom has done a good job outlining a couple solutions. As previously mentioned, electric blankets/ heating pads and electronic coffee makers (i.e., Keurig in particular) are extremely sensitive to MSW. But I have to ask, are you intending to use these appliances off the inverter? These electric heat generating units take a lot of power from the batteries, and many boondockers will intentionally not use them when on the inverter. Heavy blankets or comforter are an option. Also running the generator to when making coffee which also allows for charging the batteries might work too. But the main reason I ask is that many people are having this issue unintentionally. That is, they are not intending to operate the appliance on the inverter, but left it plugged in, and when Shore power was removed, the inverter took over and caused the damage. This can be minimized by a careful check before unplugging from shore power, or before turning off the generator.

Along with what Richard said above, temporarily disconnect our move to another circuit every item you have plugged into the outlets identified as being on the faulty circuit. With all items removed, the breaker should no longer trip. Once confirmed that there is no longer anything causing the breaker to trip, one at a time plug in a disconnected item and see which one causes the breaker to trip. I fob my 23" All-In-One computer caused mine to trip.

Check the circuit breakers on your inverter.

I agree with Tim. Test the fan first before ordering a new one. Remove the two hoses from the wax valve on the radiator. Cap each hose and start it up. Fan should run max speed. Then couple the two hoses hoses with a double ended fitting, the fan should run at minimum speed. If this works, it is likely the thermo-wax valve that is bad. They are known to fail, but when they do they are designed to fail with maximum fan speed, not minimum.

I think it is fairly safe to say that your dash gauge is reading high. These are not super accurate gauges. Mine reads high, but not that high. If you have read voltage at the battery/alternator, then you can say that the dash voltage is not going to be higher. It is a matter of which gauge is most accurate. Almost any would be more accurate than the dash gauge. Personally, I've taken a mental note of where the gauge reads, when it's at nominal 12.5 Volts and then when it's charging at around 14 Volts, and just use the existing gauge. It is not likely to further deteriorate, without gross failure (won't read at all).

Ok. On my 05 Exec, it is in the Rear Run Bay. It is NOT a fuse, but an automatic reset circuit breaker. New RRB.pdf

Which specific light fuse are you looking for? Turn Signal? Brake? Marker (Running)? +12 VDC Power? There is not a single fuse that supplies all circuits in the trailer connector.

I've seen this question asked elsewhere, maybe you? Here are some things for your consideration. Smart TV are not much more than "dumb" ones - not significate for cost to be a driver. But, will you use a smart TV? Do you have capability of highspeed broadband wherever you want to watch TV? Some use WiFi HotSpots to get internet, but some of those limit streaming to SD (Standard Definition) quality. Will you always be able to get good cellular data connections? Do you currently use streaming services? If not, what services do you currently watch? Just OTA (Over The Air - free TV)? Personally, I camp a lot where I don't get OTA or Cellular Service, or at least not great service. I have Dish Network, and all I have to worry about is no trees obstructing my view. I'm a TV guy - I like watching both network (ABC, NBC, FOX, CBS, CW) programming (usually Prime Time) but also like programming from TLC, FNC, Discovery, History, HGTV, etc. I also HATE being tethered to the TV - especially when traveling and there are things to do and people to see, pot lucks & campfires. For me, Dish Network with the ability to Record all my favorite shows and then watch them later is a MUST HAVE. I've relating this, because if you are like me, you don't need streaming or Smart TVs. But, if you don't want a satellite system, and are confident that you will always be connected to a good cellular data signal, then some of the programming I get on Dish you'll get via streaming. Also, if you are only interested in OTA Network programming, and not worried if you miss an episode of NCIS, then you don't need a smart TV. As mentioned above, there are streaming boxes (ROKU, Firestick, etc.) that you can connect to your TV to make it "Smart". Another consideration is size. To me, you'll want to get the biggest TV you can make fit in the available space. Another think is 4K. I have a 50" 4K TV waiting to be installed in my coach. I got 4K only because it's about all you can get at 50+ inches. But Dish Network has very little programming at 4K, and it takes their best Hopper to receive what little there is. There might be some OTA @ 4K, but not much right now. Most of the 4K is either streaming or BluRay disk. I don't think you would want to pay for routine streaming 4K content via cellular. It gobbles up bandwidth. And, as mentioned above, some HotSpots won't even allow for HD (High Definition) streaming, much less 4K. If you plan to be connected to DSL or Fiber, that is a different story. On to the usage in a RV question. I don't think there is enough data complied to judge durability bouncing around in a coach. I have replaced many TVs in RVs, but only one because of failure. That one had a history of power supply failures, and was unrelated to it's environment. There are some people who like specific brands - kinda like Ford vs Chevy. Some Smart TVs integrate better with different Smart Phone and HotSpots than others. Especially if you plan on casting or mirroring you phone. But that will be based upon your current cell phone brand. If you have specific questions, ask away, I'm sure there are many willing to help answer.

I don't think it will be easy to pull new coax or wires through the ceiling. There are crossbeams which basically "seal" each section. The only way I have been able to accomplish this is to run it through the existing A/C duct. You can remove lights and speakers to see a bit within a section, and help get the coax into and out of the A/C vent. Once you get above the wall where you want it, that will be a problem getting it down the wall too. you might be in luck having the W/D right behind - that might provide a thicker wall to drop the coax down.

The cables are secured every 18" or so to ensure they don't pull out. You might be able to remove an A/C vent or a speaker to see between the ceiling and the roof. Even if I could have pulled the cables, the hole was in the wrong place for my RF Mogul (similar to Traveler) to be useful.

This document is WRONG. It lists American Coach as owned by Thor Industries. Indeed, American Coach is a sister line made by REV.

I would start at the alternator. That is where/when the problem occurred. I think that the 13.8 VDC is low - maybe low enough to cause problems. I agree that since you have the isolation relay, and hopefully short (less than 5-ft or so) battery cables, that the DUVAC system is not needed....I'm surprised that is what the drawings call out. What else happend/was touched when the alternator was replaced. It's quite odd that several systems are not working if that is all that was done.

Update: I just pulled the Prestolite data sheet for the alternator number you provided. It does NOT have DUVAC (as the drawing for 2006 Diplomat shows it). Given that, and since I have no drawing to determine how it was originally wired, I'll provide some educated thoughts. First, since there is no DUVAC or any other means for external input of battery condition, and the regulator is internal (built into the alternator) I conclude that the voltage sensing is based on the main 12 Volt battery voltage. There is no ability to compensate for voltage drop between the alternator and the battery. This is only a real problem when there is some sort of Isolator used between the alternator output and the actual batteries. Again, based upon the 2006 Diplomat Wiring Diagrams I have, you don't have an Isolator (solid state device) but rather some implementation of a Big Boy Relay. That said, I recommend that you check the output at the alternator, not at the battery (yes they SHOULD be the same) and confirm it is not at the Prestolite Specification of 14.2 (14.1-14.4) volts. If the output of the alternator is not at the correct voltage, check you batteries and cables, though this is unlikely the cause. More likely the voltage regulator in the alternator is defective, or possibly some other internal (diode) is bad. In any case, I suspect, if your reading are correct, that you have a defective alternator. Before troubleshooting a bad ALT-FAIL signal, first make sure the alternator is good....it may be telling you that indeed your alternator is defective.

I just though about this last night. The output should be regulated at 14.1-14.4 volts. Your 13.7 is low - more like a float voltage from a smart charger, which the alternator is not. This could be due to the DUVAC terminal not being connected correctly. Or it could be you have other battery related problems. Lastly, it could be the alternator is defective, not putting out the full charge voltage, which would also trigger the ALT FAIL circuit. I suggest you re-check the wiring of the alternator, specifically the DUVAC terminal (if there is one - as per the drawing) and troubleshoot the low alternator output first. Once that is corrected, you may also correct the ALT-FAIL indicator.

I'm only going by the 2006 Diplomat Wiring Drawings. I have no personal experience with that alternator. 2006 Diplomat wiring diagrams Alternator.pdf

If you have no voltage on pin 85 (pin 86 and pin 30 go to ground) then I would check the inline 5 Amp fuse. Are you checking AC or DC voltage at pin 85? You can check the relay by simply removing it....and the ALT FAIL Light should go out. It is not clear which "all 3 terminals" of the total of 8 or 9 terminals you are referring to. There are two large terminals, which are ground and +12VDC main output. There are 3 field (stator) connectors. Then there is the Ignition Terminal and the DUVAC Terminal. I'm hoping that the alternator is wired correctly. Maybe you could confirm which wires are on which terminals. I have helped dozens when replacing their alternator, and over 90% of the problems were incorrect wiring. Are you sure you got the correct Alternator? I don't show the 2100 Series as DUVAC Alternators.

My 2005 Exec with DD 60 has the fan running at idle. Monaco had some problems, years ago, where the fans didn't run at idle, and they were damaging the dash A/C components, because there was no air flow across the A/C condenser at idle. The fix, as I recall, was to put some "restriction" in the hydraulic hose to the wax valve to keep the fan running at idle. Of course, this applies only to Fan Controller that use the wax valve mounted on the radiator. I know at some point, Monaco went to an electronic fan controller, and did away with the wax valve controller. I don't know when, or for which years/engines. Regarding doing damage, if it is indeed a fan controller failure (wax valve or electronic) the system is designed to force the fan to run at max speed. This won't hurt anything except mileage. I think it takes about 36 HP to run the hydraulic motor at max. But you'll still have plenty of cooling. The engine won't care - it has a built-in thermostat (maybe it will think it's in Colorado where it's not above freezing). It might effect you dash heat, as not as much engine heat will be circulated through the radiator and dash. You can test the wax valve easily. Purchase a "coupler" (double female connector to connect the two hydraulic hoses together) and two "caps: (to screw onto the hydraulic hoses to cap them off). Remove the hydraulic hoses (there will be some oil leakage, so be prepared) and connect both to the "coupler". In this condition you should have minimum fan speed. Next, remove the "coupler" and cap both hoses. This should make the fan turn at max speed. Unless you suspect damage to other components, if this test produces a change in fan speed, your fan motor is working okay. I have more details if you need them.

Is there a question here?

It all depends on how he actually wired the outlet, and then what he used to convert from the 30 Amp outlet to the 50 Amp plug on our coaches.