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Dennis H

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Everything posted by Dennis H

  1. Here's what my coach says on the inside of the front run bay door. See pic. To access the wiring on the passenger shade, I had to remove two screws which held the cove on. From there the motor was accessible and easily jumped...Dennis
  2. On mine, there are fuses in the front run bay, while there, there is a placard glued to the inside of the door panel that lists hidden fuses and locations of most of the electronics. Then there is a fuse panel in the rear run bay on the passenger side of the engine bay. Then there is a fuse panel in the rear closet behind and next to the breaker panel cabinet. There are also fuses under the driver's and passenger side arm rests. Finally, the radio, air levelers, Aladdin and Vorad all have their own fuses in line behind the dash panel. For the passenger shade, it's most likely the ground that's faulty. I had the same issue and ran a separate wire for ground to get it working again. A test light will tell you if it's power or ground at fault. The step is controlled by magnets in the door, Clean the contacts with alcohol, (not Jim Beam) the other kind. Often it's the switch that needs cleaning as well. Remove it and make sure all the connections are clean and tight....Dennis
  3. https://www.nwrvsupply.com/ bought all Monaco parts when they closed the facility in Oregon. They have replacement parts and will look it up for you. If yours are simply broken there's an easy fix for that. IMO, Monaco put the screw holes too close to the edge and they seem to break right there. There's an easy fix for that also. Simply remove the dash piece, get a scrap piece of aluminum and have it water jetted to match then glue them together and reinstall. Here's a pic.... https://executive45pbq.blogspot.com/2020/ the result is a solid piece that will never break......Dennis
  4. I only have air leveling on my coach so I'm relying on my foggy memory of the Dynasty. Have you tried jumping power directly to the jack switch? From what you've described, it sounds like a short circuit for sure. The key does need to be in the ACC position to activate the system. I believe you have a loose connection somewhere. I'd start with the switch and work backwards. Open the left panel next to the driver's seat and check all the wiring harnesses in that alcove. Those wires should have been zip tied at the factory but they were not. All of them bouncing around in there leads to lose connections. Keep us posted...good luck. Dennis
  5. I never checked for a port on my 96 Dynasty. I left it to Cummins. That was before I got educated about diesel engines, of which I'm still learning.....Dennis
  6. Depends on whether your wish to keep the Roadmaster flying R. I bought my replacements at Amazon. $17 Mine were 5 uneven notch 7/16" lip for the front. Easy free returns until you get it right.......Dennis https://www.amazon.com/Grand-General-10508-Stainless-Notches/dp/B00FS66THY/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=Grand%2Bgeneral%2B5%2Bnotch%2Bhubcap&qid=1699731152&sr=8-4&th=1
  7. Best bet is to call AAA but get a supervisor and a name to go with it. A tag 43 or 45' coach will need to be flat bedded to any facility. Most AAA contractors don't offer that service. This means they'll come out and remove the drive shaft, then hook up your rig from the front and drag the tag all the way to the repair facility. Your coach manual specifically addresses this....Dennis r
  8. Reattach that silver spring. Easy fix. Your screw may have fallen out and will be in the bottom of the door frame.....Dennis
  9. You can do one or both of two things to find out. Least costly is to get a scan tool and hook it up. If you want the best solution, take it to a Cummins shop and have them scan all systems. They'll give you a printout of your system faults and explain what they mean. From there you can decide how to proceed. I'd get it done and fixed before you end up stuck somewhere and have to be towed.....Dennis
  10. Your best solution is to visit a Cummins repair shop. Their software is superior to any of the scan tools out there. They will scan your coach and give you a printout of all past and present codes and tell you what they mean. They'll also clear all past codes and offer to fix whatever is causing your issue. Mine turned out to be a bad smog control device. I also had an issue with the bolts loosening on the turbo which triggered the check engine light. IMO, get it fixed before you end up stranded somewhere where you don't want to be.....Dennis
  11. The See Vision consists of four cameras with an additional monitor in the bedroom next to the bed. A camera mounted below each mirror, the rear camera and a camera above the steering wheel which monitors the interior of the coach. The bedroom monitor allows you to 'see' all around your coach if you hear a bump in the night. It also provides the same info as the front dash monitor. The "entertainment" center simply consists of an extra radio and two speakers. No TV which is why you most likely can't find it. Mine came with a CD Player as well. (waste of money) Your inverter should be on the ceiling of the third bay on the passenger side. Mine is a PSW which could be important if you decide to replace your fridge with a residential unit as many of us have.... Enjoy your new, to you, coach. Monaco made great coaches back in the day. Be happy you don't need DEF....just sayin.....Dennis
  12. While I know your post is seeking info on whether it's feasible to put in the 50amp service there are some caveats should you decide to do so. The biggest is to ensure you have ZERO power to your electrical panel BEFORE opening it up. This includes shore power, auto start, inverters and solar. Be safe.....Dennis
  13. A lot depends on your electrical panel. Adding a 50amp receptacle is pretty simple. It's finding a way to run the wiring that can be difficult. If you have space in your panel, (you'll need two adjacent spaces) that's where your breaker will go. A residential receptacle goes wherever your dryer is. You'll have to run four 6 gauge wires thru conduit or get a 6/4 cable. 8 gauge will handle 50amps but it will get hot, something you want to avoid. Your receptacle will have four connections. Two will be LIVE, one will be a neutral and the final one will be a ground. Hook them up appropriately inside your electrical panel. That said, you may not be able to run much else in your coach while the dryer is running so you might want to consider a simple 120v dryer. It'll take longer to dry your clothes but not by much. Only time I need 240 is if I'm drying the comforter or large throws. I try to do those when it's nice outside and hang them on a line to dry. Makes em smell better too. Hope this helps....Dennis
  14. So, many of us have the original fluorescent fixture as depicted in picture one below. Outmoded, noisy, expensive etc. and we want to change them out just because: Picture two was my first change out. Pretty simple really. Remove the fixture. Remove ballasts and everything inside the fixture. Garbage. Solder three LEDs together and double side tape them to the fixture and re-wire them to the existing wiring. Picture two. This lasted almost two years before they started flickering and failing. Looked for something new and improved. Found THESE on Amazon and installed them today. Picture three. Big improvement and hope to get better response from them. Enclosed LEDs and very easy to install. Picture four shows the finished deal. 1700 lumens. May double up in the main bathroom for DW to put on makeup. We will see. Fairly inexpensive upgrade....Dennis
  15. Mike, I'd go back over what you did. Most likely you didn't get one of the connectors pushed together enough. It's also possible you missed a wire although if you got that momentary click, it sounds like it's just a loose wire in the connector. Recheck them and see if that corrects the problem....Dennis If you don't have the manual, I found this one. It's for a 2002 but hopefully yours will be the same....Dennis 2002_Endeavor_diesel.pdf
  16. Have you looked on the wall in the bedroom closet? Monaco taped an extra sheet on mine showing where the fuses are located. Hidden fuse locations are on a sheet affixed to the inside of the front run bay door....Dennis
  17. The back panel on mine has screws that hold it in place. Here's a picture story of my replacement. https://www.blogger.com/blog/post/edit/443209174118177306/6017273845396401422 My rear TV is a PITA since it's on it's own slide behind the cabinet. I finally trashed the entire thing and mounted a 41" TV on the shelf.....Dennis
  18. If I am not going to use the washer for awhile, I pour a small amount of mineral oil mixed with water into the P trap. Keeps the p trap from evaporating....Dennis
  19. Excellent advice. I've carried extra fitting for years but have not had to use them yet. I can't say the same for the extra SharkBite fittings. Leaks are irritating no matter where they exist. I carry a supply of couplers as well as two 90s in case I get a leak in the pex lines. Funny how we do some little things without thinking of sharing. Two thumbs up to you for doing so....Dennis
  20. The rear slides don't have mechanical locks, only the large front ones....Dennis
  21. FWIW, my thermostat is behind the Manibloc, above the waterpump, hidden in the ceiling area. I discovered it by accident because some Monaco tech didn't hide it well enough.. On my old Dynasty which didn't have any heating below, I used a 100 watt trouble light to keep things from freezing. Now that incandescent lights are no longer available that may not be an option anymore. LEDs won't work.....Dennis
  22. WOW! Seems like a big expense for a small solution. But, to each his own. I would think the biggest issue would be tapping into your diesel supply. Their website says it's designed for small to medium sized rigs. Our Aqua Hot certainly heats the coach well, so IMO Webasto makes a great unit.....Dennis
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