MyronTruex

Van, any fox and hound device basically puts a transmitter on the wire. Any wire is an antenna and any wire near the transmitting wire will pick up the signal. Of course when wires go off in other directions that signal will dimish quickly. In some cases the sending device does transmit a lot of signal and cause your complaint. These devices were originally used in the telephony world, chasing wires that could be across town so the signal had to be strong. When you find this issue you can often use just one of the wires from the transmitter versus connecting one to ground. This can reduce the signal significantly and eliviate the cross talk issues. However, for the initial chase just getting some signals in places can help you begin to drill down. Once you find the signal in a particular fuse box for example, you can then attempt to reduce the signal being transmitted. I have not seen nor done any research on anything with a variable output but it would be easy to build something. If I was sitting in my old lab that would be a great project and good tool for us. But alas, that is 3500 miles in my past.

Tattletale, and let it be known I like a good challenge. Just waking up is not enough. I can often walk folks through things over the phone while playing "20 questions". Asking lots of questions and and sometimes appearing to repeat those questions is intentional. Sometimes a tiny clue that someone left out sets me in the right direction. These little clues meant nothing to the customer but can make a huge difference in diagnosis. When a difficult or intermittent problem arose with some vehicle it was very helpful having the user/customer right there in the bay or lab while we chased the darn problems down. Often finding more than one, actually, it was rare when there was only one problem. The customers were allowed to stand right next to us while we unfolded long schematics and often queried our other techs if they had seen anything similar. It was not unusual to have a customer push buttons or hold a probe because a technician just does not have enough arms or length to do some things. I believe this inspired confidence in our service center showing the customers just how focused we were chasing their elusive problems.

Tom, I see you are in or around Orlando? If you are nearby I would gladly give you a hand. I'm fairly decent at sorting things out. You have been given spot on advice but I know the frustrations chasing problems. I suspect you have two issues. The salesmans switch circuit may or may not be reliable on your unit and the "big boy" solenoid that combines batteries could be in desperate need of repair. Your yr coach may not have a system to charge the engine batteries concurrently with your house batteries. This is common. I won't get into the BIRD/IRD conversation now. I surely don't want to muddy the waters. There are lots of options for adding devices to charge the engine batteries. Some incredibly simple and some a bit elegant.

Those can be a real bugger. Have you used a "fox and hound" before? A device you connect to the wire in question that sends a signal down the line. Then the sniffer/hound can help you find the hidden wires and fuses. It is not a foolproof device but has saved me many hours in the past. With the signal injected, starting at the fuse boxes first usually sorts things quickly. As you know it is easy to miss a blown fuse.

I am glad you found the board. For a long while, I could not even get an AC unit and had to resort to a portable one. Noisy and not effective but got us through a hot summer. I found the boards on Amazon to my surprise. I have not checked lately to see if they are still there. I wish I had not sold the take-out boards on the new ones because eventually, I got a new second AC. That is, I had to buy a total of two new boards to replace two new boards in two new units. Sheesh. When you get the new AC be sure to inspect it closely. Take the plastic shroud off and see if the freeze sensor is still in the fins. I received a physically damaged AC unit, the next one with five or more major mechanical flaws, and the third one had a cracked outside shroud. It was a miserable ordeal getting a new unit that was not damaged in transit so I just fixed the one that had all the bad wiring and physical problems myself. The suggestion of moving AC units around was a great one for someone having these issues. Yours being resolved of course. Pay particular attention to the ductwork when you remove the broken one. There are some great youtubes on how to improve the airflow. I managed to at least double the airflow from mine. Ours being built at the end of 2007 some things were just thrown together. Cheers, and hope you have a cool Summer. Myron 08 Endeavor

Thanks Doc. It is now added to my files. We get great service here for sure.

https://1drv.ms/u/s!Aqrv2TUdbV6xwkLRU_RRMloR0oRW?e=R2qa0y Here are the files on the RV Look at the readme document when you open the files the first time for suggestions. For anyone I might have missed sending the file link to here it is. https://1drv.ms/u/s!Aqrv2TUdbV6xwkLRU_RRMloR0oRW?e=R2qa0y

I'm looking for any/all 2003 yr model owners manuals. I would like to add them to my list of files. Some folks here may remember me handing out DVD's with lots of files at the Monaco gatherings at Lazy Daze in the past yrs. I did not make the trip this year. The number of files collected now will not fit on a standard DVD. Finding OneDrive in the past couple of years has made it handy to share those files. We have a 2008 Endeavor and bought the factory CD and gathered many files from their system before it shut down. Along with that, they had a few factory CD's left with the files on them. Those files were indexed by numbers only so finding something useful was an ordeal. They must have had a secret code for deciphering them. After many painstaking hours of converting the file numbers to actual names that made sense and then organizing them into folders, it is easy to search for whatever I'm looking for. Along with those files are things like the Lazy Daze driving course. Many of the files have Notes on them gathered over the years of helping folks diagnose electrical things and such. If anyone would like to download the current files I would be glad to post the link. There are probably close to 100 of the DVD's passed out and mailed over the years but they would not be up to date. Just a side note here. I have an old Symphony file, *.wr1 that I can no longer open and have not been able to for many years. Anyone have an old Symphony or even Lotus 123 lying about that you could convert one file for me?

I don't know if this will help Richard.

2008 Endeavor with same issue. Resolved long ago. It seems this is a common problem. What I wanted to add is the modification idea stolen long ago on the faces of the valves. Notice a small stainless screw on the face of each of them. Removing them allows injection of silicon spray to keep the valves smoother than new. Simple mod and really has been great. In use for probably six years. Myron T

You could easily have two different problems not related. They just showed up at the same time. Happens all too often but starting at one of the running lights or tail lights that are not lit would be an easy place to get a reading. A 12 volt test light is a great tool and won't fool you like a digital voltmeter can. Finding a ground for the test light can be problematic so I built a tool that is easy to use anywhere around the rv. Using an extension cord and plugging something into the ground hole works but was cumbersome. A new empty three prong plug and some lamp wire and alligator clip made a long ground that can be run about anywhere. Just find an outlet nearby and plug it in. In the RV of course. You can clip the alligator clip of the device to a 12 volt source and then clip your test light alligator clip onto the (ground) lug of the plug which will allow you to inject 12 volts but at an actual lower level. Using it this way your lights would come on at the same time but lower brightness as would the tester light be lower. When you have the tester set up this way the test light will burn fully when you touch a ground and at a much lower light level when you touch the hot side of the light circuit for example. Without a schematic your symptoms do smell of a bad light switch. This is a common problem. When all else fails and you have no schematic a signal tracer can be used to work backwards from one of the effected lights. You connect the signal injector onto the marker light for example and then use a sniffer to chase wires. Of course this is impossible to follow the whole route but you can go to places where you would suspect a problem such as a fuse panel or a light switch.

I moved one of mine because it showed yellow far too quickly. As I recall a gentle slow prying action took it off. Some double sided tape to put it back on and all has been well. Of course getting to the sensors would have been a major chore if not for the serious overhaul of the wet bay. The plastic is all gone and a flat aluminum plate covered with some nice stuff allows me to remove it with four bolts and while at it the switches were replaced and rearranged as well as turning the shower faucet over. The hose reel now spools the hose directly down through the hole in the floor as it should have.

It would be interesting to find out if they would accept an out of state license. That is, in Florida you do not need the endorsement. In Calif over 40 ft you need it but they cannot properly define a forty footer. Trust me, I spent months trying to nail them down on this and they came up dry. No bumpers on an RV so it cannot be bumper to bumper. I do not want to derail this thread and talk about it more. After a lot of head scratching they managed to give me a written test based on two different parts and said ok, but to get a driving test was going to be over six weeks out. Never got the license. But a legally licensed person in Florida should be able to driver it. That should throw a knot in their knickers. Call a local RV dealership that sells Motorhomes. They should have drivers they can refer you to.

Put a voltmeter on the purple wire. (most likely).. Or just check both of the small terminals and also carefully feel the relay to see if it is warm or hot to the touch. On the small terminals you should see 12.5 or so on one terminal and a ground on the other little terminal when it is being energized. You can also toggle the aux start button to see the same but temporary results as the button is held on. Even if this tests finds voltage controlling the relay and you can even hear it clunk when being energized does not mean it is in working condition. The contacts are simply physical contacts that get pitted and the relay is a very common failure item. Some can be easily overhauled but if it is the one about the size of a large fist then just changing it out with a new on should be done just for good maintenance practices. The relay can easily close on a good section of its contacts one time and then next time it will not. You risk dead and damaged batteries for sure if you do not fix the problem quickly. This should get you started. If you really do need schematics I have some that should apply. It is a very simple system for the most part.

I have to keep a notepad nearby anytime I drive my coach. Or at least it seems that way. Turn the ignition key and something needs to be fixed. Owned it since new too. The only really major problem was years ago with a DPF failure that required a tow and plenty of cash. Forgot about the transmission control module getting wet and failing but that was basically a self inflicted wound. But something is always broken or needs maintenance. Richard you have a lot more guts that I have jumping into a monster unknown machine miles from home. My hat is off to you and others that do this.

This might help Alternator.pdf

Six volt relay would likely be an alternator fail light relay. I'm sure more help is on the way shortly.

We had a portable ice maker for a couple of years but when we went full timing there was just no room. Replaced the ice maker three times, water valves a couple of times, defrost strips and a couple more problems I do not recall. Loved the refer but hated fighting it all the time. The new residential is massive compared to it. Almost CF more. The ice maker takes off in minutes and makes a couple of gallons of ice at least in a big hurry. Water and ice in the door is a must for me. The wife didn't care but I do. The new refer probably weighs 1/3 or less than the original. I did not connect it up to the inverter circuit. Ours is a modified sine wave so didn't want to risk it. Just too easy to fire up the generator after 4-5 hours and usually we need the AC's anyway so it is a mute point. The refer was really easy to get through the window. The old one was a beast. Took it out the front door in pieces. Just too heavy for wife and I by ourselves.

The defrost strip in ours went bad. Many moons ago. Had many many problems with ice maker. Put at least three in. It was a nice refer but we finally gave up and installed a residential. Absolutely love it. I'm guessing at your model refer but supplying that would be useful. BTW, we have a 2008 SKQ so same layout I highly suspect. If you decide it is time to swap it out I have a ton of information on it and lots of pictures. https://1drv.ms/u/s!Aqrv2TUdbV6xw3k2MmYddfJ7rC5N?e=anVhKj Here is a link to a lot of information you might like to sort through.

Using some velcro in various places around the edges we use them in our mobility scooter baskets. Works great for the Food and Wine festival at Epcot.

It is amazing how fast the air can be let out and if you think you can get out before being crushed you are wrong. Even if you have the hydraulic jacks lifting the RV there are so many things that can take it into the emergency retract mode and it can drop like a rock. Just for fun when you are clear of everything for those that have the leveling jacks, put your foot on the brake and put the transmission in D and take the parking brake off. I can tell you from experience that a crazy thing like water getting to the Transmission Control Module can activate the same emergency situation. If in doubt, use jack stands. Even with jack stands you are at risk, says my trip to the emergency room to be checked out after my little Ranger pickup came down off the jack and jack stand and pinned me under the truck. I was only bruised but gained a valuable lesson. Stuff happens. Be careful. Just got out from under mine a few minutes ago. Used jack stands of course. I really like the pipe thing and a welder could put some tabs on it or cut it so they actually cannot kick off sideways. One of my Bilstein shocks was leaky and it took six months to get a replacement. Little do they know the old one is going to get warranted because of the leak. Guess I will have a spare. Suckers went up a bunch of course.

As I begin to remember slowly, the new wand I built I believe I took it inside with the element removed and blasted things loose. Then screwed it back in tight enough to let me flush that out. It took some time but based on my bore scope it came out very clean. I am about to embark on our first real trip in almost two years, even though we live in it full time. Health and Covid has kept us down but out for a three week adventure in a couple of days. When I get back it is time to check my tank. I have not cleaned it since putting the new element, mixer, and thermostats. My wife says this is about the best "modification" I have ever done. She can take a long shower now with almost enough water. If I kick the propane on to help it about keeps up. Why it takes her that long mystifies me. She doesn't play in the dirt like I do then needing two or three showers a day in the Summer. Of course as a Gi and growing up with lots of brothers we learned to shower quickly. She can take all the time she needs because she comes out beautiful as always.

As I recall when doing the boiler upgrade with the mixer valve installation I opted for the higher wattage element as well. With a strong light I could see the heavy build up as mentioned and was surprised at the amount. I do not remember clearly if I tried to flush it from inside the RV but do remember making a new wand myself by smashing the end of a copper tube soldered to a fitting. The tiny hole in the new wand really made a water pic out of it and cleared out the tank. I used a bore scope for inspection.

It is amazing how fast the air can be let out and if you think you can get out before being crushed you are wrong. Even if you have the hydraulic jacks lifting the RV there are so many things that can take it into the emergency retract mode and it can drop like a rock. Just for fun when you are clear of everything for those that have the leveling jacks, put your foot on the brake and put the transmission in D and take the parking brake off. I can tell you from experience that a crazy thing like water getting to the Transmission Control Module can activate the same emergency situation. If in doubt, use jack stands. Even with jack stands you are at risk, says my trip to the emergency room to be checked out after my little Ranger pickup came down off the jack and jack stand and pinned me under the truck. I was only bruised but gained a valuable lesson. Stuff happens. Be careful.

Go buy a cheap meter and start at the batteries. Run the engine while metering. Your comment about voltages going over a certain point and the Sony acts up screams of a voltage regulator issue. Batteries low on water may be contributing to the issue by not putting enough of a load on the alternator. If you see the voltage higher than it should be at the batteries you need to inspect them as suggested and putting a load by turning the inverter on and running the microwave might give you a clue if the voltage comes down a bit with the load. Those inexpensive usb chargers are screaming of a problem you do not want to ignore. Your Sony may have paid a price already and hope it is only a fuse. When voltages go higher or lower than components are designed for they can have runaway currents flow where they should not and let out as much smoke with low voltage as they do with high voltage. Again, forget the expensive meter left behind. Borrow or buy another one. It does not have to be Nasa grade