Larry Laursen

The switch you show is the circuit breaker that protects the generator. It has to be in the ON position to get power from the generator. If you look at the bottom of the panel it is mounted on it says 35 Amp 2 pole AC breaker. If it trips the lever needs to be pushed down and then back up.

Just an update, I put a plastic sheath on the wire. Everything looked good but the speedometer was pegged. After driving at 60+ for a few miles the speedometer worked.

Bill, "I got it resolved. I was pretty well prepared to get the new gauge. Would have ordered one, but that model is discontinued. Can't find it anywhere. I was getting ready to call mfg to try to get a replacement model number, when I tried the magnet trick--kinda 'hail mary' move. Was a long journey to get to that point of using a magnet to drag the needle around. Hope it helps someone down the road." I have a strong magnet. Was wondering where you placed the magnet. On the speedometer face at the end of the needle and then just bring it around to zero?

I lost the dash gauges on my unit while traveling last year and again this year. A 10 amp. fuse blew in the Monaco box 2 that is labeled dash/fuel sender. So, I had no gauges for fuel, speed, tach, oil pressure, cruise on light, etc. The wire also goes back to the alternator, as best as I can tell, and was shorted to ground. Last year I moved and tied off the wire and everything was fixed with a new fuse. This year the same thing happened with the speedometer pegged full. I have run a plastic sheath over the wire to eliminate the short, fingers crossed. The dash is working except the speedometer is pegged at max. I will be moving tomorrow so will see if it works then. I can't remember if the speedometer was pegged last year, but it worked after the fix. I doubt that the DIP switches were moved. The speedometer may have a power or ground issue.

Move the slide in about 10 inches so it goes up the ramp then you can work on the seal. My unit has a straight wiper seal that is heald in by a strip and screws as shown. I don't think the bulb seal is correct.

I had my ESCO ATS fail on my unit last year. The wire coming from the control circuit board fell off and wouldn't close the relay on the generator side. The control wires are hard access, and I couldn't reconnect the wire without tearing the entire unit apart. It was still under warranty, so I got a new one. I temporally jumpered the wire to the main control to use on the road. I don't recommend this as it took the delay out of system.

If it pumps water but doesn't shut off there are a number of things to check. Is the pressure switch working? Need to check pressure on the system when it is pumping to see if gets to about 40 Psi. Is the pump bad? Do as above and see if pressure is building to 40 Psi. If both of these tests pass, then check the water inlet valve to see if it is leaking to allow water back into the fresh water tank. They can leak between the city and closed position.

Any KVH dome is totally obsolete and is only electronic junk. I had a factory installed KVH in-motion on my 05 and it was obsolete within 5 years because of the digital signal tracking changes. I upgraded to a newer one in 2013 and it was okay for about 3-4 years unitil the satellite systems were upgraded by Direct tv. If mounted to the roof, just remove and make sure the screw holes are sealed.

Disconnect the ground cables on both battery banks and the solar power. You also need to disconnect from shore power because the inverter is grounded and supplies power to the system even with the batteries disconnected on many coaches. I have removed all my batteries while living in the coach and everything was being supplied by the charger in the inverter.

Jim, Not to belabor this but your coach was built during an interesting history in Monaco. The Monterey may have been built in Indiana as an equivalent to the Monaco Camelot and HR Scepter. I can't find any good reference now. Monaco bought Beaver and Safari in about 2003 +/- and then moved the production to Monaco plants. Anyway, during that time Monaco purchased Firestone air ride and leveling systems and got a "deal" without an auxiliary air compressor that would keep the bags inflated while parked which is necessary as there will be small leaks. Many owners had the problem you describe of having to start the engine frequently while parked to refill the air system. Some owners had auxiliary compressors installed. The aux. air ran off the chassis batteries and subsequently discharged the batteries. I have an original owner friend with a 2004 Scepter that had this problem. His has the HWH system which did have the aux air but his chassis batteries were being discharged regularly. Thus, I would suggest that you take a good look at your entire air leveling system because changing the air bags may not get you to a good place. Mine was leaking down and had a bad fitting connection. Starting the engine to air up shouldn't be needed while parked. Your chassis batteries shouldn't discharge while parked. You can overcome this by adding some equipment to your unit to fix it which will probably make you much happier. The battery discharge can be solved for less than $200. The air compressor will be more if necessary.

I agree with George there was a lot of divergence. The "Lambert" was used up until about 2004 when the owner died and they went out of business. In mid year 2004 the Windsor and Imperial coaches were changed to the IRD system in Indiana. The OP's Beaver probably was not made in Indiana so one has to inspect it for equipment. However, there were a few models, Endeavor and Diplomat equivalents made in Indiana

To give a little historical background on this issue. In 2000 Monaco decided to change from installing the Intellitec bidirectional interconnect relay delay (BIRD) and install the IRD on coaches made in Indiana with the exception of the HR Imperial and Monaco Windsor. This involved the Endeavor, Diplomat, Ambassador and Knight models initially. Then included the Cayman, Neptune, Scepter, and Camelot. The chassis batteries on these coaches was not charged with the OEM equipment while on shore power. I was involved with rallies during this time and talked to the field technicians working with the customers. In about the 2008 model year Monaco started using a Dual battery charging device from Megatech of Oregon and the BIRD. Many owners installed aftermarket devices from, Xantrex, Intellitec, Magnum, LSL and others to overcome this issue. The major problems started in the 2004 and 2005 model years when Monaco added more loads to the chassis batteries, like power awnings, auxiliary air compressors, etc. At rallies in the 2007 era, Monaco field technicians installed BIRDs at customer's expense to alleviate the problem. I personally installed a dozen plus BIRDs and carried a few with me along with wiring harness to install during my winter travels. The first on my 2000 Endeavor in 2001. Now 14 years out from the problem there are still some coaches that haven't been fixed, either because the owner doesn't know it or they have installed things like jumpers, switches or trickle chargers.

There are several high current circuit breakers in the 12 volt system. Typically there is one the supplies the house 12 volt system. There are also some for high current loads such as the slides, power reels, jacks, etc. They are typically a square black device about 2 to 3 inches in size. They can be mounted just about anywhere depending on the coach model and year. Some automatically reset. I would look at your 12 volt supply in the battery compartment, up front in the FRB, etc. They will have larger wires, maybe as big as 02. None of the loads you describe should trip them at there rating, but you could have a bad one.

Tony, May want to check your spam folder in your email. As you say things look good at the site.

Tony, As Richard says the group is still alive and we got your message yesterday. I and another responded. Hopefully you got the replies. We don't have much traffic, but it works. You probably need to review your message delivery at Log In (groups.io)

Scotty, Our prayers and thoughts are with you and Debbie. May she have a speedy recovery.

Richard, We just drove for Salt Lake City to Phoenix Area this past weekend in a car. I would recommend you go to Kingman and then through Wickenburg on US 93. Then pickup US 60 to Loop 303 on the west side of Phoenix to I 10 east and Loop 202 around the south side of Phoenix. US 93 is a better route than US 95 south of Henderson, NV. You will have 4 lane Hwy's most of the way vs. two lane on US 95 and save about 100 miles. Be aware there is very limited fuel between Kingman and Phoenix. This of course assumes you don't need anything in Quartzsite. Quartzsite is essentially wound down by March 1. When at the US 60/Loop 303 junction you will be about 1/2 mile from our house.

If the water fill valve is overfilling the tank and continues to drip water, the valve probably has dirt in the pilot valve or diaphragm. The fill valves that I have encounter, are differential pressure diaphragm valves that have a small solenoid operated pilot valve. The diaphragm has a small bleed hole and when the pilot valve opens the back pressure on the diaphragm is released and the valve opens. The pilot than closes and the water pressure builds on the back side of the diaphragm to close the valve. If the pilot is not closing or the bleed hole is plugged the valve will continue to leak. They can be repaired by removing and cleaning the parts.

Rick, Not sure what the other cables would be. My coach had a "Winterizing" system that included a bypass valve at the tank. I have never used it.

I removed and reinstalled mine a couple of times to get to the back of it in a 05 Endeavor same as Dip. The keys are to put tape around the opening to protect the paint, don't be too aggressive when loosening the sealant, and get all the connections in the rear unhooked. The sealant is a butyl sealant that doesn't have adhesive qualities. However, it can be messy to release so you need to work your way around the flange with a multitool and not bend the flange as it is just sheet metal. You can get replacement sealant at any RV supply. On mine there is an outlet for the 120 volt supply. The 12 volt control wiring is such that you need to get the water heater out about halfway. I had to replace the support inside the compartment also. Here is a video (1) RV How To - Water Heater install - Bing video

First my disclaimer: I am not familiar with the 96 Crown Royal electrical system. However, looking at the location and positioning between the 2 AC panels here are my thoughts. It looks like they are transfer relays that switch the 4 inverter circuits. The panel on the left is the inverter sub-panel and the one on the right is the main AC panel. Thus, when the main power is lost the relays switch the circuits to the inverter sub-panel. You need to check this out. I don't know what a 96 CR had for an inverter, but on 2000~ and newer units the transfer relay is inside the inverter. Thus, have the coach connected to shore power with all the circuits on and check the voltage at the relays. Now turn off the circuit that supplies the inverter power, or the main power in the main panel and listen for the relays to close and check the voltages. Now turn off a circuit in the sub-panel and check voltages. Then see where you have lost power in the coach. You can do this with all the circuits in the sub-panel.

Yes, The vent for the microwave also draws air out from the hood below the mw.

Chris, The only way I could determine the location of the studs in the wall was to look at the outside in the morning when the moisture on the outside showed the studs. I then drilled holes from the inside at the perimeter of the final opening. I found an aluminum reinforcing plate in the wall. I then cut the hole from the outside. I put tape on the exterior for the drilling and cutting the hole to reduce the paint damage. I did this when the coach was relatively new and got a painter at Monaco to paint the cover when he was doing some touch-up on the unit. I also installed a light spring on the door to keep it from flopping when driving.

Ray, The line will only have water in it when you flush. It will possibly leak when the supply water is turned off. So I recommend you have someone watch the lines than turn on the water let it run for a few minutes and then turn it off.

I have been following this and trying to visualize the location of the spots. I went to the Holiday Ramble site 2007-ENDEAVOR.pdf (holidayrambler.com) and got the brochure. Based on your description the water spots are showing up about where the red dots are on the image below. After some discussion with my wife explaining what was happening, the only thing above the floor near that area is the backflow preventer for the black tank flusher. The supply line for the flusher goes from the outside connection up into the bath are under the cabinet and then to the black tank flusher jet. Mounted on the top is a back flow preventer valve that can release so water if not working right. The water may be going under the carpet underlayment and then up through a seam in the underlayment. Yes, contorted but that is my only guess. Next time you flush the black tank find the valve under the sink and see if you get any water around it. It will look somewhat like the second image.