Larry Laursen

I would agree with Bob. There should be no need to run an additional wire. I would caution on the 360 degree antenna. While it is nice to not have to aim it, you will not get the level of reception that you get on the batwing with the extension for DTV. The 360 should work for close stations.

George, What I understand is he has a new smart TV with sound out and wants to connect to an old sound system with audio in via the RCA jacks. On mine the sound comes out as either an HDMI or optical output. On my home Samsung TV I have the sound bar connected via HDMI with ARC to control the Samsung bar. Thus the device goes from HDMI in to audio out plus the video, which he doesn't need to use. Now if the video feed is from the home theater system to the TV than he needs what you suggest. The photo shows some component cables that fed the old TV but they won't be used for the new TV as it probably only has HDMI or ANT in for the video. I installed a new TV and audio system plus a DVD player in my unit. So my Samsung has 2 HDMI inputs plus the ANT input. One HDMI comes from the satellite box for Direct TV and one for the DVD player. The ANT is connected to the OTA antenna. The bedroom TV gets it feed via SWM over the coax. The sound from the TV comes out as optical which is the input to the sound system. I control everything with a Logitech programable remote. That is, the satellite box remains on and the TV, Sound, DVD and Direct TV are turned on from the remote as needed.

Jon, Here is a link to an adaptor for the sound. Might work? Amazon.com: HDMI to RCA Converter, Auprite 1080P HDMI to AV 3RCA CVBs Composite Video Audio Converter Adapter Supports PAL/NTSC for TV Xbox, Switch, TV Stick, Roku, Blu-Ray, DVD Player and More: Electronics

Look at this for your water heater. Just replace the switch at your power control panel. JVR 12V Timer Switch Programmable Digital 12 Volt DC/AC/Solar Battery Powered - - Amazon.com

The hinge is connected to the panel with pop rivets. Remove the rivets and replace the panel if the hinge hasn't been damaged.

David, I don't doubt that your 93 Dynasty doesn't have the sense wire. This just points out the value and challenges of this group. The value is that we have a wide range of experience in the group to cover the wide range of units. We are covering about 30 years of time and a broad range of models that have much different prices ranges. The units also have many different options and accessories. Thus, when making a somewhat broad statement as I did, there are always some exceptions. I did give a age range outside of your unit by several years. I am not familiar with coaches that go back to the era of your coach, so I try not discuss anything earlier than 2000. The original poster had a 2002 Windsor which had the dual charging system installed at the factory. Others were giving their experience with coaches that had a much different charging arrangement. I was just trying to say, to the OP you don't need to look for some of the parts others were suggesting because his was different. Also many coaches have had modifications after leaving the factory so it's nearly impossible to state exactly what's on an individual coach. All input is good from everyone.

The event we are discussing here depends on the coach model and year. On the early Sig, Dynasty, Exec. and Navigator 2000-2003 or 04 Monaco installed Cole-Hersee battery isolator devices on these units. The battery isolator was a solid state device that was connected to the engine alternator and the 2 outputs went to the house and chassis batteries. Thus there was no hard connection between the house and chassis batteries. The voltage regulator got it's signal from a separate sensing wire to the chassis batteries. These units use a DUVAC equipped alternator. This system was changed at different times so the model years may not be totally correct. My reference is the wiring diagrams for 2003 Sig, Dyn, Sig and Nav. Newer models used a variety of systems, so in-house developed and some with purchased components. On units built in Indiana the system was totally different. On these units they installed an interconnect relay either a White-Rogers or Trombetta that was controlled by the Intellitec interconnect relay delay (IRD) device. On these units the house and chassis batteries are hard wired together through the interconnect relay after the chassis batteries reach about 13.2 volts. Thus, when you start the engine and have it running for a period of time the relay is closed and the alternator is charging both sets of batteries. If the generator is running or you are connected to shore power the house batteries are being charged by the inverter/charger. When this voltage exceeds the charge voltage of the alternator set by the voltage regulator you will get the warning light. The warning light is triggered by the field voltage on the alternator and the voltage regulator controls it. On some units such as mine there is another relay in the system that disables the interconnect relay when the generator is running. This means the chassis batteries are not being charged by the generator and if you dry camp for a period on time you may discharge the chassis batteries. I installed another relay so the interconnect relay is disabled only if both the generator and engine are running. The Windsor and Imperial models used the dual battery system from about 1998 - 2004. So again what you have on your individual unit may or may not apply to what someone else has. 🤔🤔

Peter, Could you find the shops name in Mesa. I talked to Tom and he wants the job which isn't a problem. I have had work there in the past and had good experience, just would like another price to see how competitive they are

I am planning on installing new shocks on my 05 Endeavor here is Phoenix, AZ. I am looking for recommendations on a shop to do the work. I have used Massey Diesel on the west side for engine and related work. I have found the shocks on Shocks Warehouse. Just wondering if someone has experience with others shops in the area

Scotty, Yes to my knowledge you are correct The Intellitec EMS senses the current on the main neutral line in the 120 volt distribution panel and is disabled when it see 240 volts between L1 and L2. When you are on a normal 50 amp 240 volt shore connection the current going through the neutral is the difference of the currents in each leg. That is; if L1 is using 20 amps and L2 is using 10 amps the neutral is passing 10 amps back to the campground distribution panel. The 8KW generators are wired so that the neutral carries the sum of the current in each leg which would be 30 amps in the case above. When you are connected to a 120volt 30 amp RV outlet the neutral carries the sum as with the generator. The EMS will allow about 80% or 24 amps over an extended time. The EMS needs 12 volts DC for its power and logic plus it must sense 120 or 240 volts to turn on. The neutral wire from the generator is larger #6AWG to carry the total amperage which can be 60 amps. Line 1and 2 are #8AWG from the generator. If you have a 10KW or 12KW generator, they are 240 volt generators and the system works as if on 50 amp 240 volt shore power. The normal 50amp RV service cord is 3 #6AWG plus one #8AWG for the ground. So yes if you bypass one of the A/C's it will still shutdown the other items controlled by the EMS if the total load exceeds 30 amps for a short period or 24 amps for a long period. If you bypass both A/C's then the EMS will shut down the water heater and washer dryer in most coaches. Now if you disconnect the current sensor than you have no protection. I don't know if an open sensor will disable the EMS or simply make it inoperative and not allow any of the loads to operate. The coil in the sensor has some resistant and may be sensed by the EMS circuit for safety reasons. I can't find anything in the manual about this. You can supply 12 volts to the generator input connection and disable the EMS as is done for the 8KW Onan generator. There is a wire than comes from the generator hour meter to the EMS. If you are interested the installation and operation manual is attached Intellitec MDL750 EMS.5300684.000.pdf

Jim, The previous owner must have changed the charging system on your 04 Endeavor. I have a 99.9% confidence that it didn't have an Intellitec Big Boy interconnect relay when it came out of the factory. Monaco was using Trombetta interconnect relays on the Scepter, Camelot and below on the food chain in the 2000- 2007 Era. The Navigator, Dynasty, Sig and Exe used the Intellitec Big Boy relay in those years and after. On my 05 Endeavor there is a relay in the front run bay under the driver's window that disables the interconnect relay when the generator is running. This prevented the interconnect of the batteries when the generator was running. I don't know when Monaco started or stopped installing this relay. It isn't inside the distribution panel box and appears to be an "after thought". It also came from the factory with an Intellitec interconnect relay delay (IRD) and not a bidirectional interconnect relay delay (BIRD). I installed a BIRD (removed from my 2000 Endeavor) and put another relay in the bypass circuit so the interconnect is disabled only when both the generator and engine are running. I did this because the OEM system didn't charge the chassis batteries from the generator. I wanted my chassis batteries to be charged while dry camping with only generator power. Again, as I said before this bypass relay is not installed on all coaches.

I just googled Lift it TV lifts and got this website: https://www.touchstonehomeproducts.com/collections/drop-down-tv-lift-mechanisms You might want to check with them. I did a little more searching on the part number and got this site: Lift It: Flip-Down Ceiling TV Lifts for LCD and Plasma Televisions (liftmytv.com)

Bob, Back in 2002 we were traveling with the friend who had a 2001 Scepter that didn't have the generator sense wire connected to the EMS. Thus, the EMS thought it was on 30 Amp. As I recall I just bypassed the EMS relay for the second A/C unit by moving the one wire. The A/C is the main power draw so he still had protection for the electric water heater and an A/C. I would also change the setting on the inverter to 30 or 15 Amp for charging. You will be connected to shore power for awhile so a slower charge rate should be okay. Bob, Yes, you have the correct analysis of the EMS above. As I said in another post just bypass the EMS feed for one A/C by moving one wire to come directly from the CB. The 8KW inverter equipped generators have two 30 amp circuits at 120 and no 240. Thus, there is a 12 volt supply wire that comes from the generator to the EMS to by pass it when the generator is supplying power to the coach.

I agree with Scotty that the wiring on most of the coaches made in Indiana from about 99 to 2008 used the same basic harnesses. The exceptions are the 97~2003 Windsor, Imperial, and Navigator. The coaches made in Oregon used a much different system and are not comparable to the Indiana coaches. The Dynasty, Executive and Signature were made in Oregon as was the Navigator after about 2000. The basic printed circuit board as common across the Indiana coaches and different connections were used depending on the model and options. I couldn't find a 99 wiring schematic however there is a set of wiring diagrams (schematics) for the 2000 Diplomat in the Download section of this forum. It is located here 2000 Diplomat Wiring Diagrams - Wiring Diagrams - Bill D’s Monacoers This is about as close as you will come. It's a scan of the book that was provided owners at the time and was on 11 x 17 pages so the scans are 1/2 page each. There wasn't anything provided for trailer braking on the 99 Dip. I had a 2000 End and it didn't either.

We will miss Bill on this forum as well as other forums. He was always helpful with his wealth of knowledge about the motorhomes. Prayers are with his family.

The 2005 Diplomat has electric slides. I have an 2005 Endeavor, the same coach. The kitchen slide on the passenger side should be an above floor slide. The large living room slide on the driver's side has the ramp. If the slide is tilting as it comes in the rollers need to be adjusted and possibly the ends where the arms attach to the drive racks. It should be looked at by a professional. I always bring my slides in while still connect to shore or generator power so the batteries are at full voltage. Lubrication of the gears and racks from the bottom will also help. A regular maintenance program to lubricate should be done.

As a silent partner in this. I want to thank Scotty for all the work he has done getting this going and keeping it up. Merry Christmas to all and Happy New Year

In the rear passenger side compartment where the inverter is located, there is a black plastic cover mounted to the back wall and ceiling. Remove this cover and you should see a number of components including the starting and pre-heat relays. It also covers an access opening that the wires go out to the chassis. I haven't checked for the 120 volt wires on the inverter but they may go through the opening. It' been long time since I have had it off.

The 120 volt wires as most of the wires coming from the rear distribution panel are going out into the rear cap. The overhead wires going to the A/C's and outlets in the cabinets go through the roof structure and then down into the cabinets. The lower runs like the inverter go through the chassis runs that are in the frame. Depending on the coach design, there are no wires in the walls. The upper end coaches with the bonded walls are designed in this manner. I.E. Imperial, Windsor and up. The Knight up until about 2010 has fiberglass in the walls and some of the power comes from below or above. The outer walls are bonded to the studs in the assembly process after the interior cabinets are installed. There aren't many wires running along the walls. Thus, the inverter 30 amp feed is most likely going into the rear cap from the distribution box. I have had mine open on my 2000 Endeavor and all the wires went out into the cap area. I sealed the opening before going to Alaska in 2001. I know my rear bedroom outlet comes up through the cabinetry as I rewired a light switch. The wires are then put in looms and run forward. The TV comes up through the windshield A pillar.

The picture you have shows the control for RVA jack system. When you push the retract there won't be any sound of pump. The jack springs retract the jacks the valves in the rear have to open to allow the oil to return to the reservoir. The valves are mounted on the jack power unit which is most likely located behind the A/C cooler panel which is the first panel behind the left rear wheels. On the valves there are T handles that can be turned to manually open the valves and retract the jacks. If opening the valves manually doesn't get the jacks to retract, then you need to lube the jacks. I use a good silicone spray on mine. The jacks tend to be stiff when it 's cold. You can get information here: RVA Jacks, RVA Leveling, RVA Jack, RVA Parts, Monaco Leveling Jacks, RVA Jacks Troubleshooting

As others have said, the water pump controller in the 08 Diplomat is mounted on the wall in the water compartment. The controller is in the ground or low side of the circuit. You need to check the voltage at the pump. If you have 12 volts without the pump running on both terminals than the fuse is okay. If you don't have 12 volts to a ground you have a bad fuse. In addition to the fuse in the bedroom which is for the control circuit, on mine there is a fuse in the front run bay. I can't find anything regarding a label or number except maybe 42, 44, 46 which are shown as a 15 amp spare. However, check all the fuses on the house side in the front run distribution in the compartment below the driver's window. If you have 12 volts on both sides, then have someone press a switch. The voltage on one side of the pump should go to ground. If it doesn't go to ground than the controller is bad.

The Sanicon system was first developed by an individual as a "home brew" He used the Shurflo pump and attached hoses and pipe fittings. Very limited investment in manufacturing equipment. Thetford bought him out and started to make it. I also made a simple pump that connected to the 3 inch drain for use at home. I am not sure if you can buy any replacement parts, but carry my simple one in case it is needed. I have had issues with the inlet plugging with toilet paper. I carry a hot water heater flushing tool that I can put in the inlet and flush it without removing.

Bob Nodine has the battery charging and inverting down right. I haven't followed too much lately. On my 05 Endeavor the inverter supply does go through the battery cut-off and as someone said, depends on your coach and who did the wiring that day.

Loren, Not sure what model coach you have. In 2005 both the Scepter, side radiator and the Endeavor, rear radiator has the ISL 400. On the rear radiator units you can install the Horton two speed fan. Source Engineering in Oregon also has a higher efficiency fan. If you have the side radiator than it has a hydraulic driven fan. I don't think you mean 1000 hp. electric fan, I assume you miss typed that. When considering power, the only source of power on the unit is the engine. Therefore, the alternator has to supply the power to the electric fan for any extended period of time. Yes, the battery can give a quick boost but that must be replenished.

Dale N. On your 03 Neptune the generator starts from the house batteries. When you start the engine after the engine batteries reach about 13.1 the Intellitec interconnect relay delay devide (IRD) closes the interconnect relay and the house batteries will receive power for charging. If you house batteries are discharged too low the inverter/charger will not charge them. It has a built-in safety. You will need to use an external charger to get them back to a "safe" state. If any cells are bad then you should replace the entire bank of batteries as the bad cells will draw down the other cells. Also make sure your inverter/charger is set to charge.