FishAR

Ok, I guess I did the search wrong here. I did a search on irv2 and Paul Whittle says kill the battery disconnects and it will reset and if it doesn't further investigation is required. I'll try that in the morning before I ask any more questions about it.

Today I was in the motorhome and went to turn on the lights on the pad by the sink, it's dead. I push the buttons but nothing happens. It doesn't light up or turn on the lights. It worked last time I was down there. The pad in the bathroom works, other living room pad works, bedroom pad works, best I can tell all the lights work. I didn't get to mess with it much because I had to run home right away. Motorhome is plugged in, batteries charged, nothing else abnormal. Wondering when I get back down there tomorrow if killing all power to it would reset it, like unplugging the motorhome and turning the battery disconnect? Or do I need to look at the master panel in the closet for a blown fuse? There's an intellitec panel in the closet with a lot of fuses. Thanks in advance.

I kind of understand. If not for my extensive reading I wouldn't have known about the iota. I changed out my iota for a lyght, but the iota was pristine. Connections tight, no burn marks. If a mechanic had told me I needed to change it I'd have thought he was taking me for a ride. BUT, I saw the pictures of the burnt ones, read the stories about the fires, and went ahead and did it.

Some of these prices are shocking to me. My Camelot has everything I could dream of in it... Well I take that back, bath and a half would be nice as would a residential refrigerator. I came across this that was in my ownership papers/manual packet. I had to take the picture to send to the insurance company for my tow truck damage claim last winter. NADA shows it at $303,481 list price new.

I'm pretty sure it's recommended to do so, but mine all looked good so I just painted over it.

He gives a lot of good info on the facebook page, helps a lot to cut through the stupidity.

Your notes might not be as bad as you think. I was just reading the facebook Monaco Owners forum and someone asked a roof question. Chris T. Talin (forget his name here) said they use a gallon and a half for 2 coats and put it on thick. Rustoleum top coat wasn't mentioned though, I think maybe they use dicor coating. On the rustoleum though I did use just a little over a quart for the first coat.

How important do you think it is to give 2 coats? I know it's the smart thing to do but I'm having a real hard time getting up there and doing the 2nd one.

Should have clarified in original post This happens while cooking, flame is already lit and doing fine. Not during ignition. And after reminding myself what a foot is by looking at my tape measure, probably more like an 6-8 inch flare up.

Just getting around to seeing about this, wife brought it up the other day. During the winter in Florida every now and then the front burner on the 3 burner stove top would flare up. Flame jump up a foot or so with a poof sound like you'd just lit a gasoline fire. I told wife to use the other burners and see if they did it, apparently being hard headed as a mule she never did, she loves the front burner. Regulator? Is there something in the cooktop that could cause this? I had a coleman road trip grill hooked up to the outside propane connection run through the same regulators off the main tank and it never flared up like that.

Yes I have a tag axle.

I didn't add any but my Camelot came with 3. At least 2 of them are heat pumps.

I just finished the first coat of rustoleum topside. It took a little over a quart. I bought 3 so I have plenty thankfully. I have 3 ac's, 3 roof vents, sat dish, tv antenna, skylight up there so I decided to brush it all. Still not sure if that was the right decision but I'm sticking with it. Boy is that a job for a 65 year old, I should have taken better care of myself when working for the man instead of laying it all out for them. 2-3 days I'll give it the 2nd coat.

Wife and I were looking at it the other day and how much was loose and where the breaks in it are. Noticed that the top section under the windshield seems to be the original from the factory still. They had to remove the bottom sections and the generator slide section to do the body repairs from the tow truck incident. It seemed the top original section was MUCH thicker than the new stuff.

I'm not 100% sure that's what I've got but I'm talking about the clear plastic protector film on the front of my Camelot from the bottom up to the windshield. There are different brands I think.Has anyone taken their class A to a shop and had this removed and then replaced? I know it took a day to put on last year when I was having my body repairs done but I don't know how long it took to take off since I wasn't there.Here's the thing, this stuff started coming loose on my trip home to IL from Gerzeny's in Sarasota. I called them when I got to my next stop and they said No problem, it's got a lifetime guarantee. I said Well it will have to be next fall when I come back to Florida because I have to get to IL. Sent them pictures and documented it with emails.Well next fall is almost here. I'm trying to figure out my living accommodations while this is being done. Body shop manager isn't much help, he obviously doesn't know, he just says We'll make an appointment and I'll talk to them and see. Well I need an idea in advance. Also he's not been forthcoming with his sub contractor vendor who does this so I can't contact them. Last year at first he said they have vendors all over the country so maybe they can come to you in IL and do it, well that fell through, the vendor said No it has to be done here and in Gerzeny's shop.So long story short I'm wondering how long a removal and replacement takes.

I won't spend the night at a walmart, there are campgrounds all over. On my way through town on an early morning the other day a pusher was parked at Casey's with the slides out in everyone's way. With a trailer behind it and a jeep. There's a campground one block from that Casey's. I don't get it.

Now do it from the side.

I pull a 2010 Silverado ex. cab 4x4 with the nsa hercules tow bar and ready brake. Has worked well for me.

Not sure what those rings are, my 2007 Camelot doesn't have them. Camelot has a speaker on each side of the tv and a little storage cubby below the speaker on the right where I put the remote. 2 lift cylinders and latches on the sides instead of the bottom, so looks like they're completely different. I was able to fit a 32" fire tv in my space in place of the aquos. I wish I'd have thought to run a small extension cord out while I had it opened up like you did so I could charge my phone there.

I put three of these covers on while in florida during the winter and they didn't screw to the curb. Remove 4 screws in the roof and mount brackets. Amazon.com: Fan-Tastic Vent U1500BL Ultra Breeze Vent Cover - Black : Automotive ULTRA BREEZE INSTALL MANUAL 1_23_12.pub (media-amazon.com)

My steps run off the chassis battery also, as does my awning.

Hercules 295/80R22.5

Good to hear everyone saying 2 quarts, I bought 3 just to be safe. I would have bought a gallon but couldn't find one since I hate buying paint by the quart. Just got done scrubbing the roof down with dawn. Barely beat the hot sun. Still need to wash the sides and put the coach inside.

Who fills it for you? They have to shut if off to fill it. My shutoff is the first thing coming out of the tank, I'd think they would all be that way for safety.

The radio in my outside entertainment center, sirius/am/fm/cd/dvd player just turns itself on now.I'll go out and open the hatch and turn it off, later go out and it will be on again.Almost 6 months in Florida and it didn't do this but now that it's in my driveway it is.Thought maybe a tv remote but I'm 30 ft from it in the house and I don't remember if the radio even comes with a remote.Time to dig into the owner manual again I suppose.