Notn2bars

Michael J, feelings of safety do not negate the truth of what goes on in Mexico. You are fortunate you have not run into any trouble in Mexico. I do not live in fear, but neither do I live in a fantasy world. I have had bullets flying over my head in Mexico and choose not to venture into the interior anymore. Would love to do so, my wife is Hispanic and speaks the language. Which is a great tool when traveling over there. Neither of us will go into Mexico under the current conditions. Your life is meaningless to the cartels. God Bless, Ed &

Decided where to mount the fuel pressure gauge. Discovered the primary filter manifold had the raised portion where a plug could have gone. Drilled it out and tapped to 1/8 npt. Hit it with the sand blaster and voila, have a place to mount the fuel pressure sensor. Will be removing the old primary altogether will continue using the original secondary with the drilled and tapped manifold and mount the sensor there. Then will run wiring to the front and mount a fuel pressure gauge in the dash. Need to run pvc or conduit for the Blue Sea ML-ACR. Blue Sea ML-ACR is next project or heater core, a/c evaporator. God Bless, Ed & Sylvia

Having lived on the border for over 50 years and having traveled in Mexico, my advice would be don't go by yourself. If you must go, go with a well established travel agency that caravans. In Mexico You have NO rights, NONE, and there will be little or no police protection. You can't trust the cartel or the police. Be aware you are not allowed to have any type of firearm to protect yourself or your family. If your MH is searched and they find 1 and I can't emphasize enough, 1 cartridge, your MH will be confiscated and you will spend time in a Mexican prison. You have NO rights, NONE when you are in Mexico. Mexico is a beautiful country with interesting places to visit and history. The common people are the most accomodating and friendly people you will ever meet. Just be aware of the issues that are rampant due to the cartels. God Bless, Ed & Sylvia

Still doing it at 72 years old and enjoying my hobby!!!

Tim and Van thanks for the info on using an ignition only wire. Will look at doing that when it cools down a little. The Grancritters (children not pets) are with us today, so not going to get much done on the Hobby!!!! You guys are a blessing and have so much great info and advice. God Bless, Ed & Sylvia

Thanks Tim, I looked at the video and understand the filter issue. Looks like I will bypass one of the water separators in the back by the motor. We will keep the one with the electrical connection as it is a 4 micron. When testing which side of the filter is the caps side, instead of turning the key to the off position the DW turned it to the accessory position and I took a diesel shower. Kinda funny now, but not at the time. God Bless, Ed & Sylvia

Ok Tim, thanks for the response! God Bless!

Would it be possible to replace the 144 micron PF 3001 filter on the FASS pump with the 20 micron Fleetguard FS 1242B water separator and the 2 micron XWS 3002 filter on the FASS pump with the Fleetguard FS 1022 4 micron filter. Then move the XWS 3002 back to where the FS 1022 was located and put the fuel pressure gauge at that location? God Bless, Ed & Sylvia

Our pac brake quit working also. It was completely frozen open back in the engine bay. Took it as far apart as possible cleaned it then lubbed (lubed) it with permatex anti-seize as it will remain as a lubricant up to 1400 degrees, much higher heat than the pac-brake special lube which breaks down at around 500 degrees. Worked for a week or so then quit working. Pulling my hair out and banging my head againt solid objects did not seem to make it work. Checked for signal at pac-brake solenoid. What? No signal. Tested foot switch and showed good. Still no signal to pac-brake solenoid. Started to trace wires from foot switch, thought they went through floor behind the switch mount. Tore the plywood out to which the foot switch was mounted. Did not go through the floor. LO and BEHOLD, the spade connectors had come apart behind the mount. Evidently they had come loose from someone pulling on wires in the left side console. Connected them back together and did away with the foot switch and replaced with a rocker switch on the left console. Working great ever since. No more problems! Activate the switch whenever needed and pac-brake automatically kicks in when I take my foot off the acelerator. Good luck and God Bless

Well, no not really, removed the tile then changed directions and installed FASS. I guess I get distracted!!!!! Since it looks like we will be doing the floor before we go anywhere, kinda put the stairwell on hold. God Bless, Ed & Sylvia

Tim, your setup looks great!!! Jim, there is a port on the FASS system. However do to the location of my FASS system and the close quarters, it makes that port pretty inaccessible. Even is it was, the location of the port on the FASS makes it impractical. By the way Jim, did you ever receive the tile I sent? God Bless, Ed & Sylvia

Good morning Jim, wish my secondary or primary filter had the port. Neither of mine do! So my first try will be to locate a 10 AN tee. Will see if that works! God Bless, Ed & Sylvia

Thank you Tim. My plan was to add a gauge like you did on the secondary filter. Alas, my snowflake doesn't have such a place for the installation. God Bless, Ed & Sylvia

Yes, will add a presssure gauge once I figure out where to put it. Neither of the fuel filter manifolds back by the motor are configured with the port in the top for a gauge. Thank you both for your support and advice. Thinking about posting the install on IRV2 also, what do y'all think? God Bless, Ed & Sylvia

FASS finished. Started by cutting a hole in the plywood between the propane and fuel tank compartments. Cut the hoses and attached them to the FASS pump, as it would be too tight a fit for the wrenches once installed. The hose on the right is the return hose. The fitting going into the tank was replaced with a larger diameter fitting. The original fitting had a copper pipe that went to the bottom of the tank. Removed it by lifting and bending the copper a little at a time. Then attached the return hose. The hose in the middle is for the suction side of the FASS pump. It's the feed from the tank. The hose with the attachment on the left side is the feed for the caps. The hose provided in the kit was more than adequate. Actually have about 4-5 feet left over. Back at the lift pump. Bypassed lift pump altogether with a female-female 10 AN fitting. Removed hoses from lift pump manifold and attached to fitting. Capped lift pum manifold with two 10 AN caps. All the fitting used were either 10 AN or 8 AN. Faomed all lines and wires as needed. Worked out well, bled according to FASS instructions, took 2 tries to start motor. She seems to idle much smoother. FASS finised. Pics of the pump installed. First pic is from above the propane tank. Second pic is looking up from the bottom of the propane compartment. God Bless all of those who took and interest, especially Tim and Jim.

Tim, did you do the exhaust yourself? Did you delete the muffler? PTL, finally finished the FASS install. Mounted it behind the propane tank, which gave me plenty of fuel line to hook everything up. First did the electrical lines. Drilled hole in upper front run bay. Put line through with connector to the FASS pump. Zip tied FASS line to existing line that ran to propane bay. Drilled hole in propane bay and put line through with connector to FASS. Installed relay at top of front run bay. Used a target arrow shaft to poke hole between wires up to drivers right side console. Soldered longer wire to FASS ground and fed wire through hole and attached to ground buss on dash. Attached the ignition wire to the bottom of the middle buss and attached the positive feed wire to the left buss. (see 2 red wires at bottom of busses. At the back by the motor, cut existing connector from lift pump. Attached wires to old connector using male bullet connectors. In addition attached male bullet connectors to lift pump wires. Did this so if the FASS pump fails, bullet connectors can be pulled apart and the lift pump wires can be reattached with the bullet connectors. Ran wires to rear run bay for "fooler relay". It's the relay on the right with the purple and gray wires. After completing the install and starting her up, we foamed all the lines.

When we broke down in San Antonio the 8 mile tow to a Cummins dealer was going to cost $800.00. Then no telling how much the repair was going to cost. I could hear the cash register ringing in my ears. Ended up calling a mobile mechanic. Our air dryer had tanked and he was able to get me back on the road in about an hour and a half. $200.00 Give this guy a call maybe he can help. Ray Ray's Mobile Mechanic Service. 210-913-0952. He works mostly on big rigs, but does alot of MH repair also. I highly recommend Ray. Hope this helps. God Bless Ed & Sylvia

Thanks Tim and Jim, will also be putting in a relay, have 5 or 6 laying around. We have been waiting on parts to come in. The 10 AN female to 10 AN male was unavailable last week, came in today. The nearest vendor for AN fittings is about 30 miles away. Welded an extension on one of the mounting brackets and all looks good to be amounting the FASS behind the propane tank. It's a little hot outside at the moment, so inside taking a breather. Hopefully get it all mounted after things cool off. We appreciate you keeping up with our install and all the encouragement. God Bless, Ed & Sylvia

A big thank you to both Jim and Tim. Using Jim's (air test) we were able to determine what lines went where. Looking at the passenger side of the tank, the left line is the return line from the CAPS system. So far so good. The line in the middle is the vent. So far so good. Now for the kicker. The suction line for fuel to the CAPS system is the left line on the drivers side of the fuel tank, which is a bear to access. Thinking of moving the propane tank out of the way and cutting a hole in the plywood between the propane bay and the fuel tank bay in order to access the fitting. Was able to remove the fitting, using a wrench to test. Still determined to mount the pump in the propane bay. Again, thank both of you for all your help and advise. God Bless, Ed & Sylvia

After some critical thinking, realized that if I connect the two lines on the left of the lift pump to feed the CAPS pump. The CAPS pump is done! If my thinking is off base, please let me know. Sometimes there are smarter hammers in the bag than I. Do you know what size plugs needed for the lift pump? Praise the Lord, Just spent some time on the phone with Tim-AZ. He was so kind as to take the time and call to answer the quesitons I had. With the invaluable help from Tim and JIm we should be able to finish installing the Fass system tomorrow, barring another rain storm. God Bless, Ed & Sylvia

Thanks Jim, I would like to get rid of one of the filters. Should keep the one with the electrical fitting on the bottom? Here are a couple of pics of the lift pump and CAPS pump on our unit. My preference would be to bypass the lift pump manifold altogether. If that is done, do we connect the two lines on the left of the lift pump to feed the CAPS pump and leave the line on the right as the return for the CAPS pump? Our CAPS pump is located behind tons of stuff. Did you remove anything to get to the lines feeding the CAPS pump? Is there only one line to be connected to the CAPS pump? Was not able to figure out lines back at the fuel tank yet, decided to rainy and miserable today!!!!!! God Bless, Ed & Sylvia

Helping DW in the kitchen today. If I get a chance I'll use the (Jim air test) on the lines to see what goes where. Will we need to keep both filters back in the engine compartment? Thanks for the offer Tim, if I end up changing locations, I'll let you know if we need more pics. God Bless, Ed & Sylvia

Jim, the panel on the driver's side was up. The way our fuel tank is configured on the driver's side does not allow you to see directly on top of the tank. See pics. I was wondering if maybe the fuel system has dual suction lines for the fuel system, one on each end of the tank. If so, that would be great as my Fass pump is only about 2 feet from the big line on the drivers side of the tank. God Bless, Ed & Sylvia

Just got back from church. After reading Jim's post decided to take a look at the other side of the tank. Cannot see top of tank on the drivers side. Held my phone up above tank to take a pic. I can't see what the phone is able to see. Anyway, 3 more fittings but only two lines hooked up any ideas as to what these are? See pic. God Bless, Ed & Sylvia

My bad, I completely forgot that the generator had a feed line from the tank. Jim, thank you for the additionl pics. Guess I'll have to use your (air method) to determine which and where each hose goes. Tim as always, thank you for your input and guidance. Rocketman, the kit we purchased is the TS D08 100G from Rudy's Diesel, $699.00 plus $57.67 sales tax with free shipping. Arrived in 3 days. The pump has a lifetime warranty. AS a side note. If you purchase from a non-authorized vender, Fass will not honor the warranty. ( Second hand info) did not check with Fass. God Bless all of you, Ed & Sylvia