Jump to content

Notn2bars

Members
  • Posts

    158
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    2

Everything posted by Notn2bars

  1. Tim, here are a couple of pic of the filter mount. If you take the filter off you can see which way the fuel flows. God Bless, Ed & Sylvia
  2. It was an unfortunate situation. As I indicated, thank the Lord they weren't seriously injured. I will reserve calling people stupid for the day that I'm perfect and that ain't gonna happen. I've driven big rigs and have had a class A CDL for years and have seen it all. When people are sold RV's, most dealers grab the money and don't care what happens to the customers. I'm in agreement with all who have indicated that there should be some kind of training. God Bless, Ed & Sylvia
  3. Yes, thats why they crashed into the second bridge. If you watch the video, the MH is put into reverse and clears the first bridge. Thus my observation. God Bless, Ed & Sylvia
  4. I could understand what happened if they are inexperienced with RV's. They made it under the first bridge labeled at 9ft. 9in. and assumed they could make it under the second bridge. The signs are misleading. It's an unfortunate situation, thank the Lord their injuries were minor.
  5. That fitting on your fuel tank has a very small opening. I removed the one on my tank and replaced it with a fitting that had a larger opening to make certain it would meet the requirements of the FASS return. Good luck with your FASS install and God Bless, Ed & Sylvia Here is a pic of the FASS return line with the replacement fittings.
  6. IMHO, stay away from RV dealers in general for your chassis work. I found a local truck place for alignments and a small mom and pop tire shop for my steering box replacement. There are folks out there who do good work at a reasonable price, just have to search around for them. Also, have had good luck with mobile truck service when broke down in San Antonio. Good luck and God Bless, Ed & Sylvia
  7. Here is a picture of my OEM lift pump. As you can see two of the ports are capped off. The two lines were joined together with a coupling. The line to the right of the port capped in the bottom of the picture is the caps return line. (near the blue tarp) We had a leak also and I was able to stop the leak by tightening the bolts on the top of the pump. If you have any questions feel free to drop me a line at edjonesjr2001@yahoo.com Good luck with your install and God Bless, Ed & Sylvia
  8. Thanks for sharing Jim, your posts are always on target and so valuable for us who do as much as our own work as possible. God Bless, Ed & Sylvia
  9. Ditto on the cat litter and and Dawn dish liquid!!! God Bless, Ed & Sylvia
  10. We replaced our TRW box with a rebuild from Weller. I don't think you will find a better box than the rebuilds from Weller and they stand behind their product. We purchased our box from the their facility in Grand Rapids, Michigan. It's a huge modern facility with all the latest machinery. They are a top of the line rebuilder. They also rebuild Cummins, Cat, Allison and others. Don't think you could go wrong purchasing one of their units. They replace all worn items, not just the seals. When we purchased ours about a year ago it was $675. God Bless and good luck on your project. Ed & Sylvia
  11. FishAR, you can purchase rod at Harbor Freight to (weld) (more like brazing) aluminum. It is actually an alloy that makes the attachment stronger than the aluminum. You must use a stainless steel brush to burnish the aluminum so the melted rod wil stick. It can be done with a regular propane torch. Works well, I have used it to make several repairs. God Bless, Ed & Sylvia
  12. Try an auto parts store, they usually have thin tubing! God Bless, Ed & Sylvia
  13. David, I'll take it. David, I'll take it. We have the same alternator on our 2000 Dynasty. Need a spare to avoid what you just went through. If you would email me at edjonesjr2001@yahoo.com. I'll send you my number so we can make arrangements. Thanks and God Bless, Ed & Sylvia
  14. Great post with awesome information Jim. Looks like we have another project on the list for the MH. God bless, Ed & Sylvia
  15. Van and Jim thank you again for all the valuable information. Didn't work on the MH today. Helped a neighbor with the construction of the roof on his addition, may be helping him for the next couple of days. Waiting on parts again. Will keep y'all posted when I get back to it. God Bless, Ed & Sylvia
  16. Notn2bars

    Big baddy

    We replace our Norcold 1200, unit with the 120 volt Amish unit from JC Refrigeration about 18 months ago. We did the install ourselves inside the living area of the MH. Has worked flawlessly since. Keeps icecream rock hard even when 100 degrees outside. Don't think you can go wrong with one of their units. Good luck and God bless you in this project. Ed & Sylvia
  17. Jim, Rocketman and Van, The input from all of you is appreciated and valued. Van the pictures will be invaluable for the install. Jim, kinda what I had in mind for the install, except we will put our rocker switch on the left side console. The fuel pressure gauge will be in abou the same place. What gauge wire did you run to the front for the switch? God bless, Ed & Sylvia Van, it looks like you removed the little green box, the solenoid above it, and the isolator. Are the completely out of the equation or were they placed in another location? Thanks and God Bless, Ed & Sylvia Ray, LOL me too!!!
  18. Thanks Ray, how is Marilyn doing? Are you behaving to her standard God Bless, Ed & Sylvia
  19. Thanks Vito, took a look at the post. Good info, looking for more, especially photos of an install where the isolator is replaced. I appreciate your quick reply. God bless, Ed & Sylvia
  20. Good day to all of you on this forum. We have a 2000 Dynasty and are getting ready to install an ML-ACR in the MH. The unit we ordered has the remote switch for the dash. It looks like only 2 leads need to go from the engine compartment to the dash. Am I correct in making that assumption? The other question is, what gauge wire will we need for the run from the engine compartment to the dash? To be safe, it looks like we will need about 45 ft. If anyone has a diagram or pics of their installation, that would be a great help. I'm including a pic of our rear run bay. Any advice or help is greatly appreciated. God Bless, Ed & Sylvia
  21. We had our windshield replaced and the installer sealed the rubber seal with a black polyurethane. It will work much better than caulk and is what the professionals use. You can purchase it on amazon or any place that install windshields. It can also be used to reattach the drip molding. God Bless, Ed & Sylvia
  22. Ditto Ivan and Ben, the rubber should be glued to the body IMHO. We had our windshield replaced and the installer glued the new rubber to the body. Also if you are experiencing that type of separation, there is a good chance that you have had water intrusion under your dash. We had to completely rebuild our underdash and coat it with fiberglass. God Bless, Ed & Sylvia
  23. Thanks Tim, waiting on parts ordered. 1/8 npt to 1/4 npt adapter and Fuel pressure gauge with sensor. Should all be here by Saturday. God Bless, Ed & Sylvia
  24. Bryan, you may not travel in Mexico with any firearm at all. Cannot stress that enough! If you have any ammunition even just 1 cartridge on your person or in your vehicle you are breaking Mexican law and you will spend time in a Mexican prison. I have been on several church missions to the interior of Mexico and we don't do that anymore. As Dr4Film indicated the cartels are in charge of everything, including the local governments and the police. We do venture into Progresso, Mexico just across the border for shopping and lunch. That's as far as we go. God bless you and your family in your adventures, Ed & Sylvia
  25. Van, thank you for your time and effort. Made certain it's tapped on the outlet side. Now waiting on parts. Seems like waiting on parts is a common thing. God Bless, Ed & Sylvia
×
×
  • Create New...