Notn2bars

Jim and Tim, thanks for looking in and giving me a hand with this. In the second picture of the top of the tank you can see four fittings into the top of the tank. The fitting on the far left doesn't have anything hooked to it. The second fitting and the first one with a hose is, I am assuming the suction line for the lift and injector pump. The third fitting from the left is definitely the vent line, as it goes immediately to the right of the filler neck to the bottom of the compartment and exits. Is the fourth fitting the return line from the lift pump manifold? As you say, they are snowflakes. God Bless, Ed & Sylvia

Just started working on a Fass install. Decided to mount it close to the tank which is in the front of the MH. There was not enough room in the fuel tank compartment, which would have been my first choice. Didn't want to mount it in the storage bays for obvious reasons. Crawled up under the MH and found there is plenty of room to mount the Fass unit between the back of the propane tank and the passenger side storage compartment. This puts the Fass unit close to the front run bay for the electrical connections. The fill neck is on the passenger side of the MH. Here are a couple of pics of the bracket temporarily mounted behind the propane tank. Didn't have to drill holes or make any modifications to anything. There is plenty of room and the bottoms of the filters will be even with the frame members. Fairly easy to change filters when needed. Just a couple of questions. Also have some pics of the top of the fuel tank near the fill neck. Is the line on the far left the suction line? Is the line on the far right the return line from the injector pump? The line in the middle is the vent for the fuel tank. Is this a good place to attach the return line from the Fass pump. Also, there are two filters back by the engine, looks like two water separator filters, one with the wired connection. Any ideas as to what to do with these? Thanks and God Bless, Ed & Sylvia

As I said, IMHO. It has been my experience living in the hot desert of the Southwest, that vinyl or cloth are pretty useless. However, there are treated materials such that will block up to 95% of the UVA and UVB radiation. God Bless, Ed & Sylvia

IMHO cloth or vinyl tire covers are basically useless as they do not shield your tires from damaging UV radiation. We recently had covers made in Donna, Texas with bubble foil insulation installed on the inside of the covers. This was done at the DonWes flea market. The foil bubble insulation was purchased online. The shop provided the other material and the labor. We a very happy with the result and our new tires are protected.

Yes, pull the axles. It is imperative you remove all the old gasket material. Then coat with the proper amount of Permatex. Put axles back but do not tighten nuts. Allow the permatex the correct amount of time to set. Check instructions on the tube of Permatex. After the correct amount of time tighten the nuts to correct torque and in the correct sequence. God bless, Ed & Sylvia

We have a 2000 Dynasty and our rear differential is an Eaton. If your axle flange is leaking, you do not need a gasket. We repaired ours by removing all the old gasket material and used Permatex Gasket Maker on the flange to seal it, did both axles. No more leaks. There is an torque sequence that must be used in order to insure the flange is seated properly. In addition there will be a torque setting for your particular application. God Bless, Ed & Sylvia

Awesome you were able to get it fixed. Great that it was something simple. God Bless, Ed & Sylvia

Ditto Tim, we installed our 120 volt JC conversion unit about 18 months ago and are very happy with it also. We live in South Texas and the 120 volt system keeps icecream rock hard. Couldn't be happier. God Bless you in this project. Ed & Sylvia

Do you have pics of the leak? I believe your fuel tank is up front. Could be coming out of the tank vent as Tim has indicated. More info or pics would help

We have a 2000 Dynasty with the kitchen, living room slide. Had no trouble cutting a hole for a microwave vent. Cut from the inside and did not run into any wiring or frame structure. Good luck and God Bless, Ed

Ditto Ray Davis.

It's probably a drywall screw. Some drywall screws have what look to be machine threads!

Ditto on the 27.5 to 28 inch blades. We just use the blades we find at Wally World

Our 2000 Dynasty came with a MSW inverter. We changed out the original fridge to a 120 volt compressor fridge and from JC Refridgeration in Shipshewana Indiana. It works just fine on the MSW inverter. God Bless with your project, Ed & Sylvia

Jim, glad you are able to figure things out. The thread sealant we used was Rectorseal TRU-BLU pipe thread sealant. It is an excellent sealant and none of our connections leaked after applying it. God Bless, Ed & Sylvia

Looks great Roy, like you I have about $20 in mine also, glue and spray can clear coat! God Bless, Ed & Sylvia

Michael, thank you also, God Bless, Ed & Sylvia

Roy and Ken, thank you for the kind words! It was quite a project, as the most difficult part of the project was bending the black walnut without is splitting. I discovered later that oak is much easier to bend. However, if I was to do it again it would probably be out of aluminum. Our cabinets are walnut so we thought the dash would look good in walnut. Turned out Ok, but it took several tries to get it right. God Bless, Ed & Sylvia

This is the dash I did last year from black walnut. We have a 2000 Dynasty. It would have probably been easier to build out of aluminum plate and hydrographic the dash with a wood grain. If you have any questions, feel free to ask. God Bless, Ed & Sylvia

When my driver seat quit working, it wasn't the fuse or relay. One of the spade connectors had come loose inside the plastic loom hidden under the velcro and vinyl cover.

Jim, when I was working on my air leaks, I ended up replacing all four of those valves. Being 20 years old (the coach) and not being that expensive I replaced them for peace of mind. Pray safe travel for you and yours. God Bless, Ed & Sylvia

Last year we purchased an Amish unit from JC Refrigeration. We installed a 120 volt Amish unit to replace the cooling unit in our notcold 1200. It works wonderfully with our inverter. Currently we have 4-6volt batteries and if we run the fridge on the inverter all night it takes all of 20 minutes running the genny to fully charge the batteries in the morning. We do the same thing when we are traveling down the road. Run the fridge on the inverter and recharge the batteries when we stop. The freezer keeps ice-cream rock hard and the fridge at a constant 36 degrees even when it is 100 outside. Very happy with the unit. However if we did it over again we would purchase the 12 volt compressor unit instead.

A big thank you to RVhotrod. Dennis was kind enough to send a file with a photo of his front run diagram. It has all the labels in the right places and we will be able to make a copy of it and glue it back to the compartment door. God bless all of you for your time and effort.

Wblakepa, Thanks so much for taking the time to post the pic of your front run bay diagram. Unfortunately it is not at all similar to the diagram that we lost. Jim, I downloaded the file you suggested and it is very similar, but some of the fuses and connections are not there. It's a place to start. Appreciate the heads up. I guess the 2000 is a true snow flake. God bless and have a great day, Ed and Sylvia

Dennis and Debbie, Thank you for your kindness. However, when I try to open the panel schedule all I see is a black page. Please send again or email to edjonesjr 2001 @yahoo.com. Thanks and God bless, Ed and Sylvia