Cubflyer

Tom and David L have both given you great info and I believe are sending you in the right direction. My coach was a handful when I first got it. I started with high tire pressures not knowing the weight (on the axles or each tire) being carried, after weighing each axle (some recommend each corner (wheel set)) I found that per the tire pressure chart, that I was running pressures much too high. (100+ when chart said 85-90). This helped some, but still the coach had a mind of it's own crossing bridges on interstates, changing lanes where the pavement height differed, and each passing truck moved me left and right and left again. I have the 8 airbag 8 shock Roadmaster Chassis, old Shephard steering box, cheap shocks. Keep in mind that a steering box is just that, a steering device, not a make the vehicle go straight box. Now days passing trucks startle me when they 'appear' next to me, crossing between newly paved and old lanes doesn't even shake me up, dips on and off of interstate overpasses I just throw up my hands like riding a rollercoaster and my coach goes straight, strong crosswinds (NE, WY) still push me some but no worse than any car I have driven. What did I do to get to this? Source Eng. Swaybar in the front mounted so the links are perpendicular to the road/chassis, Front Watts link and rear crossbars. Simply put, I did things that make the coach stable and drive straight. The Watts link and crossbars did the most for that, the swaybar reduced body roll (that "elephant walk". Good luck on your quest to have a good driving coach. IMO Best order, tire pressure, watts link and crossbars, front swaybar (maybe rear also, I do not have any experience with that), shocks if they are shot/leaking, steering box only if the coach is not steering the direction you want to go. You should not be "steering" the coach straight down the road, it should do that by itself. Ken

On my 2003 HR Endeavor the original primary filter (the one with the water bowl on the bottom) was mounted in the area where the dash A/C condenser radiator and fan, Air system filter and regulator, and the Hydraulic pump and reservoir for the jack system are. Drivers side, behind the rear wheel. I used that filter's mounting bracket and hoses to mount and connect the FASS system. I had to route a new fuel return hose back up to the front through the conduit pipe and tap into the fuel tank (the most difficult part of the modification.

Down below the floor by the inverter or batteries? Or in the upper cabinet in the bedroom with most of the 12vdc fuses and the 120v ac panel? I have that upper electrical panel area all apart, and found some chewed on wires and a mouse nest complete with dead mice. Have not found any broken wires yet, just missing insulation. Still 'hunting'

I can not say for sure, but there is a possibility that the lift pump is sucking fuel directly from the fuel tank. Personally, I suggest you do yourself a long term favor and install a FASS filters and lift pump system and bypass the factory lift pump. I did that when I first got my coach and truly believe that had I not installed that system I would have been on the side of the road with an expensive tow and repair bill. Easy to service filters, trouble free pump and with an output pressure indicator up front to see, assurance that your engine injector pump is getting it's 'life blood' fuel to cool and lubricate it. Read up on it, I think you will see it's value (especially when you price an injector pump or even the factory lift pump) Ken

I just discovered why my radio quit working.... there is a three pin connector that holds the switched power, the ground and a "Keep Alive" wires .... seems that the 'keep alive' wire has no power (12v). Jumping the connector between the switched power and that keep alive wire and the radio works (but loses all it's settings when power switch (on the coach not the radio power switch)) is cycled off.... Now the challenge is tracing the purple or lavender colored keep alive wire to it's power source... I have not found the fuse for this but I have not found any bad fuses either, so probably a mouse had a snack! Still searching...

Thanks, I'll check it tomorrow!

I have all my annoying alarms (parking brake, low air) on circuit breakers mounted to the steering column plastic cover, easy to pull the CB if a false alarm starts up... I think I may have to add another one.... my 'stabilizer jacks down' warning beeper has been coming on randomly (jacks are physically up).. until I can identify the cause... bad switch somewhere?? Any info appreciated. Ken

Rick N If you say so.... but by my count the wiring diagram shows only two wires at the unit itself, like two terminals, not three terminals like his photo, maybe there is a ground not shown in the drawing... either way, he needs to figure out what his buzzer is connected to.

Photo shows 3 wires connected to “buzzer” wiring drawing only shows 2…??? Can you get any numbers or codes off the wires connected to the buzzer?

Or 3M Contact Cement... probably the original glue used (it was on my fiberglass side panel to Luan panel)

If what you need is in fact 1” plus thick I would think you could laminate multiple sheets of (11/32”?) plywood together, staggering the joints to create a 12’ length…. But that’s just a guess…

Update for everyone... Although Kevin and I both had the same problem, coach brake lights inop, we had different reasons for the failure..... Kevin with broken/burnt wires... good find! My 2003 Endeavor's problem was that both switches at the brake pedal pressure valve were bad (well, at least I changed them both) and replacing them solved my no brake light problem. The reason for this 'late update' is because after winterizing my coach and having it parked outside until April. When I finally had a place to work on it, I found that setting a 'baker scaffold' up spanning the open generator door gave me a way of actually reaching the switches for replacement. Once I had access, it was a straight foward change out. Even though the original switches had three wires, only two wires per switch were used, so my two wire N.O. switches (under $20 each) hooked up and fit perfectly and operation checked great! Thanks Ivan and DennisZ for sending me on an alternate switch search!

I’m not familiar with this modification, but, generally refrigerators have cooling coils in the freezer area and move some of that cool air to the refrigerator ’area’ by natural air movement (cold air falls) or by a fan…. Sounds to me like all your cold air is staying in the freezer.

So the brake 'control' air pressures are pretty low relative to the system pressure...probably 0 to 50 psi...?? ... sounds like I need to look for much lower pressure activation switches. Thanks Ivan!

Does anyone know what pressure the switches at the brake pedal (for lights, etc) are designed to operate at? Is it zero pressure when pedal is not pressed? and 10,20,30 or more psi (120psi??) when pressed? What would the switches "see" for pressure under normal braking? Under heavy braking? I'm trying to source brake light replacement switches... I've found a switch that goes from NC to open at about 50 psi and NO to closed at about 60 psi... would it work?? Thanks for any knowledge on this.. Ken

In my bedroom, the rollers are mounted to the floor, there are planks on the bottom of the bed box that the fixed rollers on the floor ride on..... no rollers are riding on any floor surface. I 'get' that, there is plenty of wood on the inside of my MH, so looking at a product that does not look like wood but is lighter than tile is how I'm leaning.. Ken

look at Which RV Floor is better here on this site... just a few days old.... lots of answers to some of your questions. After my reading thru it, I believe I will be looking closer to the cork option.... it sounds like the perfect combo of warmth/flexibility/waterproofness for a motor home floor. Ken

I have the same problem currently, but my MH is not close by so I have not been able to repair it. That said, I do believe the brake light switches are in the area in front of the brake pedal, forward of the firewall, accessed by the generator. I have two switches there on an air line manifold. I believe they are the problem, and would like to have replacements in hand before I contort myself up in there to replace them. Still looking for a source for replacements... Maybe your lights are not working for the same reason. Ken

If what you have here is in fact the auxiliary start solenoid, it should never "automatically' be powered and make the connection between the two sets of batteries (house and chassis). It is activated by a switch on the dashboard... (Generally speaking and for sure on my 2003 HR Endeavor). Another general statement.... no electrical component should ever be too hot to touch. Heat is death to electronics, so you definitely need to find out what is goin on here. Ken

It is my understanding about the construction of the airbags, there is an internal stop that makes contact with the airbag at it's deflated condition. The weight of the coach being supported by the airbag material is not a thing. I'm not sure about the construction of the jacks, but many hydraulic actuators have the seals riding on the inside of the external cylinder and the exposed chrome shaft is just riding on a "guide", not the seals.

Yep, The brown wire would isolate the two banks of batteries-house/chassis while cranking the coach engine. Now I'm remembering why I did not make that brown wire connection... I do not crank up the coach when connected to shore power or running the genny... just a "me" thing... Maybe, now that I have become aware of this connection I will make it...-Ken From the install instructions: Start Isolation The ML-Series ACR can be configured to automatically open temporarily (3-5 minutes) when voltage is sensed on any one of up to three start-isolation inputs. Enable this feature to isolate Start circuits from the House circuit and prevent starting current transients from interfering with sensitive house electronics. To enable Start Isolation: • Connect the brown wire (ISOLATION #1) from the harness to the terminal or wire running from the start key switch to the starter solenoid. Make this connection through a 2 Amp in-line fuse. This connection can be made at the start key switch or at the starter solenoid, but must be to the line that is positive only when cranking the engine. as shown below.

I'm not sure what the brown wire does/interacts with the ACR either. My ACR works for me as advertised without the brown wire connected. My ALT light did not come on immediately, it took a while on the road for it to start 'glowing' faintly, I uncoupled the battery banks with my remote switch, allowing them to charge/operate separately and the light went out... Again, having all the batteries connected together and having the engine alternator and the inverter 'charging' them, just did not play well, I sure did not want to chance hurting my alternator or my inverter, and I viewed the ALT fail light as fair warning.... others experiences may vary..... Ken

The stated purpose of the ML ACR is: 'An automatic charge relay (ACR) performs several tasks. It combines two battery banks to charge them from a single source' The original "BigBOY" relay it replaced, just combined the two banks of batteries for starting. ....Single source of charging,....... the engine alternator output is connected to the chassis battery at the ACR, the house charger (inverter) is connected to the house batteries at the A+ and Negative of the house batteries, therefore when the inverter is a 'source', powered by either shore power or the genny, and you are running the engine there are two charging sources. As for the third (solar) charging source (in my MH connected directly to the house batteries) it is not a very large output, just a few amps verses an engine driven alternator or an inverter.... so it does not seem to interfere with the engine alternator when the house and chassis batteries are combined. FWIW....I did not connect the brown isolation wire up, so maybe that would isolate the two batteries when running the engine and it would (automatically) be isolating the house and chassis batteries when the ignition switch was on (engine running)......... Ken

You have a Queen that will drive that coach?? Much less one that will drive it alone!! Wow is all I can say…. As for the ML ACR, my switch stays in Auto, unless operating the engine with an operational alternator AND the Genny with an operational generator …. And in that case, I isolate the two sources of power, by selecting OFF. It is bad practice to provide more than one source of charging power to the ML ACR…. I did that once and got an ALT (fail) light on my dash…. Only time I would lock it ON would be if I needed house batteries to start/boost chassis batteries Ken