Cubflyer

Walter, FYI, I had a pin hole in the hose out of my FASS system to my secondary filter… CAPs pump (an original hose, not an added or replacement hose) once about an hour from my destination (for the winter storage)). The engine ran fine, maybe a little down on power, but I was flat-landing it…. (Running the FASS system left a trail of diesel, with it off the CAPs pump was probably pulling some air with the fuel but it did keep running and no fuel was fine misting out). When I changed that hose the FASS pump sure was handy to bleed the air out of the hose to the engine! (Reason to have a pump that comes on and stays on!) As far as wanting solid fuel without air or water going to the injector system, it is “standard knowledge” that the pumps are cooled and lubricated by fuel and injectors hate water…. A big part of the Cummins fuel injection system design is the return of “excess” fuel to the tank… that’s the cooling fuel. But, again, each to their own. Ken

Walter, I believe there is no reason that the pump you linked will not work to 'substitute' for the original lift pump, and having it operating 'full time' will provide the desired constant supply of fuel pressure to the CAPs pump. There are other reasons folks have installed FASS pumps and filter systems before the secondary filter (last filter before the injector pump). A big reason is pointed out in information provided by PPE (your chosen pump mfg) and I quote: "The PPE Diesel Fuel Lift Pump is a key component in a reliable fuel system. Rather than depending on the OEM CP3 to pull fuel from the tank, the PPE Diesel Fuel Lift Pump pushes fuel through the lines and filter. It eliminates the possibility of air being drawn into the system, collapsed hoses, and fuel restrictions from occurring. Kit includes pump, mounting bracket, dual 12V fuel pump relays (JD1914)(RL45), and wiring diagram." (underline and bold added by me) With the FASS filtration/air separation system, the primary filter is before the pump and any air is returned to the tank, providing pure airless fuel to the injector pump, (very good for injector pumps longevity). Your proposed placement between the primary and secondary filters' only benefit over stock is the full time operation. Drawing aeriated fuel and supplying it to the injector pump is still a possibility. Each to their own.... it's easy to improve the system over the original parttime lift pump, especially since our fuel tanks are 30+ foot away from the injector pump! In my case, I also was dealing with a contaminated fuel tank from lack of operation, so the FASS system has kept me on the road, instead of in the shop spending thousands of dollars....! Ken

I’m just wrapping up removing carpet and replacing it with LVP, on my slide-out the seat belt bolts were flat head carriage bolts that came up from the bottom, very outboard edge near the wall, where they pass thru a metal angle underneath the floor. Not just thru the wood/fiberglass floor.

I’ve started this project at the front stairs area and used Gorilla Glue Construction Adhesive, it’s clear and comes in a caulking tube container. Seems to be holding on the vertical surfaces, wondering how much and where to use glue on the horizontal surfaces? Just around the edge? On every piece? Or just on the edges of the pieces so the whole thing just ‘floats’. Advice?

Heat gun preferred, but an open flame has been used... probably in the 200-250F range, and yes the shrink tubing shrinks first, sort of seals the sleeve to the wire so when the low melt point solder melts it stays in the sleeve and around the wires. I like them, but I suspect that there are different levels of quality. Ken

My drive today, first real trip with my new TRW steering box (replacing a leaky Shepard box) resulted in very little difference in the way my MH drives... there was maybe slightly less 'free play' movement in the steering wheel. As I stated before, if you have to 'steer' your motor home straight down the road, you need suspension improvements.... these 8 baggers 'squirm' around under the coach. Ken

In reference to the video, it is my opinion that the steering wheel is NOT there to make the vehicle go straight down the road, it's there to steer the vehicle, make the vehicle change lanes, go around a corner, etc.... If you do not have watts link or a second panhard rod in the front and either crossbars or watts link or second panhard rod in the back, it is the nature of the beast... and the only thing the more precise TRW steering box will do is allow you to 'control' the wander more precisely! I'm leaving tomorrow for a 6hr trek to New Orleans, the first drive since my TRW install. It's got to be better than no power steering drive from Denver to Memphis last month! Even with the Shepard box I never moved the wheel that often or that much...(after installing the watts/crossbars/front swaybar) Ken

Ha! Try a 4’ pipe slid over the end of that breaker bar!

There should be some steel structure running vertical that screws go thru the trim (under the decorative cover) thru the front cap fiberglass and into the vertical members.. see photos

Bob, I used what JDCrow used. You will also need one bolt, lock washer and nut to hold the pitman arm on (I think it is 1/2" x 4", but not sure, I bought it at the local hardware store, grade) 😎 and three longer mounting bolts, the TRW has thicker mounting 'tabs' than the Shepard. In this thread (epiner1217 from August 2, 2022) there is a very good written instructions on doing the change. Be sure to cut a hole for the adjustment screw and nut... needs to be larger than 1". I made a template with a piece of lexan off the new box and bolted it to the MH frame to place the hole correctly. Making that hole was the hardest part. Also it is very heavy and located in an awkward location (for lowering and lifting). Ken

Dennis, Do you happen to know the Sheppard part number? According to my 'build sheet' my unit is a M100 PMN31..... it has a 10.5" steering arm attached. I believe the unit and arm that JDCrow suggested is a good replacement. Ken

Looks like Weller has stock somewhere, I'll have to wait until Monday to find out... hopefully in stock in Memphis! Thanks again!

First thing I tried.... no joy, with no parts availably, I went to plan "B" and bypassed the leak (steering box) ate a big can of Popeye the sailorman's spinach and drove home! JDCrow, Thanks! I'll look it up and see if I can get one heading my way! I have more traveling to do! Ken

I need a little help here. My turn has come to replace my M100-PMN31 Sheppard steering box, it is leaking fluid, not a hose or a fitting. So I called Weller and they said “There is no TRW box that cross references to the Sheppard”. “We have cores to rebuilt Sheppard boxes, but none ready on the shelf, these are available with a 15 day wait”….. not what I expected when I asked for the 'drop-in' replacement for the Sheppard. So here is my question, since ‘everyone’ says it’s a must to go to a TRW, what is the part number of the TRW that fits? And the part number of the correct pitman arm? so I shop for the TRW steering box. P.S. It is possible to remove the hoses, hook them together with a union fitting (stop the leak and keep fluid in the pumping system) and drive without power steering from Denver to Memphis.... but it will not be fun! Ken

My turn has come to replace my M100-PMN31 Sheppard steering box, it is leaking fluid from the mount side. So I called Weller and they said “There is no TRW box that cross references to the Sheppard”. “We have rebuilt Sheppard available with a 15 day wait”….. So here is my question, since ‘everyone’ says it’s a must to go to a TRW, what is the part number of the TRW that fits? And the part number of the correct pitman arm?

My guess is CO or Carbon Monoxide detector, there are better new ones available that are battery powered.

Do not connect the Blue Sea remote switch ‘like the original’ with the original wires (there are not enough conductors). When I installed mine, I ‘fished’ a new multi conductor cable between the switch and the ML-ACR. Full control over the unit from the drivers seat.

If you removed the caps and then the screws under the caps, someone has glued that trim so you could try a putty knife under it to get it loose

Brad, I had a similar situation, I have a Blue Sea ML-ACR and was running my genny (with inverter charging house batteries) along with the engine running and charging the chassis batteries. My theory is that my ML-ACR does not 'like' being in 'Auto' mode when there are two sources of charging, each charging 'their' batteries (chassis and house) and that 'messes with' the engine alternator warning light. The ML-ACR is the 'connection' between those batteries. I now select "OFF" on my ACR when running both engines. No glowing or blinking "ALT" light any more. Hope this helps. Ken

One thing that I learned about my Blue Seas ML-ACR (that I personally love) is never let it connect (lock it out) when operating more than one charging source, do not operate it in 'Auto' for example, if you run your genny (powering the inverter/charger) and your engine (alternator charging). I did that one time, and my 'ALT' warning light started lighting up, so I 'isolated' (locked it out) the ML-ACR and the light went away... In a nut shell... I operate the ML-ACR in 'Auto' unless I run the genny while we drive so we can use the roof air conditioner/s.... in that case switch it to 'Off'. I have never put it in 'On' (or boost) to use both batteries for starting..... yet! I can see where it might be possible to use it in a situation where your engine alternator has failed, you could use the genny and inverter/charger to charge the chassis batteries, as long as there is not a short in the alternator output cable...... maybe..

I was about to buy new straps for my tow dolly... please send photo to my email...Cubflyer52@Gmail.com, Thanks!

I just discovered that my slides work even with house and chassis batteries ’off’. Not sure how or why, but they do! 2003 HR Endeavor…. all electric motor driven, no hydraulics....

There are different levels of quality in these heat/melt/seal connectors. Good ones are used all the time in aviation avionic installations. Toms comments are true but are more about larger heavy duty wires. In the right application and good quality ones are, as Streetrodder said, GREAT. Ken

Dr4Film's link to amazon is about perfect IMO... 1/12 of an inch is thinner than 1/8 inch... 1/8th=.125 1/12th =.078... flattened 3/8"copper tubing is about .063

soft copper tubing (3/8") hammered flat will work pretty good, use a step drill/unibit to drill the holes.