cbr046

Have you checked AC system pressure?  Even without the compressor kicking in, which it won't if refrigerant is low enough, there should be xx psi in the system.  I don't know xx value.

- bob

I don't know if you get a fault code for a non-starting unit but the light in the generator switch will blink for any fault codes, then look in the manual to troubleshoot.  There's 2 sets of blinks giving you a 2 digit fault code.  Details are in the manual.

As for the fuel gauge and sending unit . . . . I might get a second opinion.  What are the odds both would go bad at the same time?

- bob

13 hours ago, Ivylog said:

I would just add one on the outside.

Easier said than done

- bob

I run a 14 gauge extension cord at home just to keep the batts fresh and fridge on and plug it into the 50A cord inside the storage bay.  No AC, Elec hot water or other energy gobbling devices.  And I throttle back the on-board energy management system to 15A to make sure I don't overtax the system.  I doubt it could handle much more than 10A as it's 100 ft long. 

It's also the same cord my dad used for shore power on boating trips in the 1960's.  Nostalgia is a precious thing. 

- bob

Nice job on the install 👍

Sadly I'm still struggling with the old Norcold.  I re-insulated the boiling tube, which had chunks missing (thanks to the ultra thin foil covering), taped up any seams that had gaps (LH lower side tape had separated) and added an extra layer of EPDM to the door seals.  The center flap in the doors still isn't sealing perfectly and I need to work on that.  I've been keeping track of temps and it appears to be minimal improvement (90 outside = 50 indicated in the fridge)  However, the last road trip the inside got to 70F (which was probably 65) with 90'sF outside and 65 mph so another road trip is in order to see if it will stand the test of speed. 

48F on the fridge thermometer is really 46F according to Govee thermometer and on the IR gun reads 37F, very deceptive.  Fridge fins read 27F and back of freezer reads -18F.  Fridge fins are forming a heavy layer of ice on the RH side.  Fridge definitely is more efficient on AC vs propane, but being I'm mostly boondocking it's what we have to work with. 

This is all my little 1200 can do.  Full blast, non-stop.  The fridge thermometer should read 40 before the thermostat shuts down the boiler and that hasn't happened since June (or earlier). 

If I go replacement I'll probably do the Amish unit.  I can't afford to rely on the generator. 

Good luck finding a new home for your 1200.

- bob

Maybe clip an ohm meter on the wires going to that fuel filter plug (water sensor?) and start wiggling wires, in case that plug / wire repair wasn't up to par . . . . but with all that going on I doubt that's the problem. 

In my case only the ATC light started coming on.  I don't have an Aladdin system.  Also, the light would come on as more throttle was applied.  At first only a flicker of ATC light then a thousand or two miles later it only needed slight throttle for the ATC light to go solid.  I only changed the primary fuel filter, where the wire / sensor is on the secondary fuel filter (2003 HR Endeavor / Cummins ISC / Roadmaster RR8R). 

Good luck,

- bob

Mine has 2.5 cups.  Wish I could just replace the cups for like 5 bucks.  I've tugged on the cups to see if they'd come off the shaft and nada. 

- bob

As Forrest Gump would say:  "It happens"

Glad you found it,

- bob

53 minutes ago, Dr4Film said:

The coach was traveling southbound according to the news article whereas one posted stated they though it was traveling northbound based on shadows.

That was me thinking the videographer was shooting in the morning, which they were.  Unfortunately I got my E-W a little mixed up (or was it N-S?). 

TPMS is a must with rigs like ours. 

11 minutes ago, moxy1962 said:

 I have tpms and while I get comfort from some information from it, it never warned  of my failure of front steer tire on I81 northbound few years back

Which TPMS system failed? 

- bob

5 minutes ago, jacwjames said:

 . . . may be a wire that was partially nawed threw and then finally shorted. 

That's the stuff fires are made of! 

- b

Don't forget to check it both ways, maybe even interrupt the wiring half way through the chain, then ohm it to the source then to the end.  Obviously (because you already have), make sure the breaker is off . . . maybe even check for voltage on source wiring to ground, both hot and neutral, before ohming.

- bob

Before 6 am well outside the city so hardly any traffic.  It would still be quite dark and everyone would have their headlights on.  Deer could be active but they usually stay on the shoulder (after hopping the fence).  Looks like Northbound from the shadows.  

But to drive up the embankment far enough to hit the trees, spin a 15 ton RV 180 degrees and completely separate the house from the chassis would take a LOT of speed . . . . . I'll throw sudden cardiac arrest into the speculation pool.

Very sad indeed.  Prayers for the families involved. 

- bob

On 6/29/2021 at 11:34 AM, cbr046 said:

Has anyone replaced with these?

Amazon, $5.76 and 15 lbs of pulling force.  Seems like the perfect replacement.

https://www.amazon.com/WOOCH-Magnetic-Stainless-Hardware-Closer-Sliver/dp/B07N2NQ992/

- bob

There's significant force required to open the doors, and without a pulling handle you have to kinda dig your fingers in the crack.  It's not hard, but a handle would be convenient.   

Now for some post-trip feedback . . . .

If the coach rocks enough (and mine rocks a LOT due to some of the places I pull into) the doors will unlatch.  One sliding door unlatched twice and the other once during my 1,600 mile trip.  I'll install a second set of magnetic latches and maybe a pull handle of sorts to make opening easier. 

I forgot to latch the shower door during the trip.  Never thought it would be necessary, but at some point it swung open with enough force to bend the hinge and prevent closing of the door.  Ahhh, another thing to fix! 

- bob

Both front and back won't air up or just one corner?  If just one corner I'd suspect an air bag has cracked.  Can shut engine off and you (or wife) hear any air hissing?  Or connect an air compressor to the towing port (or whatever it's called) you can hear it (vs engine noise).

How recent was the trip from AZ to SD?

Just a thought. 

- bob

Right.  Avoid skin contact as the skin oils can crack the glass when heated by the bulb (so they say).  And most LEDs aren't dimable (not sure why). 

- bob

But if it's not venting out it's not venting in either.  Better fix that before the water tank implodes or pump burns up trying to pull water from the tank.  Maybe some really strong mud dobbers blocked the vent tube . . . . where ever it is. 

- bob

Any chance it can be welded?  If it's just a random pin hole no problem.  If the inside of the tank is rusted from condensate water then yeah . . . replacement. 

- bob

One leg of the monitor should be hot, the other "not-so-hot" as it would be the return line.  It should be same as the ground lug. 

The question is whether the monitor and HVAC problems are related.  I wonder if there's an issue with your power cord to the pedestal.  Check the pedestal breaker also, making sure both sides are engaged (ganged breaker). 

Sometimes a breaker can look ok but actually be tripped.  To really check it you need to flip it off then flip back on.  I'd do this on the coach breakers and the pedestal. 

Good luck,

- bob

If you're creative you can disassemble both units and compare resistances on the output components (mosfets?).  L2 is dead anyway, what else can you do to it? 

When you find the mosfet / component that's different resistance get the numbers off the device and order from a supply house (DigiKey, Newark, etc) for pennies on the dollar (compared to inverter replacement).  If you can't get an exact match order a beefier one but order the complementary side also.  I did this with a 400W portable inverter that had 4 output transistors and saved the unit.  Well, until the battery wouldn't hold a charge anymore.

Just a thought.  L2 is a boat anchor anyway, right?

- bob

Just gonna put this out there . . . . . would you risk a thousands in engine damage to not having a proper 10 cent oil drain plug washer? 

I'd get it right. 

- bob

2 minutes ago, jacwjames said:

I am home now and will start troubleshooting tomorrow.  Drove ~560 miles today, a little wore out!!!!

Sitting in a barcalounger watching scenery go by?  606 miles until 3 am then 201 miles this am.  Just woke up from the nap 😉

- bob

Copper will compress and seal around the head of the nut.  You're supposed to install a new copper washer every time it's compressed.  I don't, but that's on a small motor . . . .

- bob

On 7/24/2021 at 7:54 PM, Cubflyer said:

The Inverter could be the problem, causing the generator to "overload" and it auto shuts down to protect itself....  I think that is basically what mine was doing.... the generator was unable to "accelerate" to meet the load (due to fuel starvation) and would auto shutdown and throw the 3-6 code...

 

My generator had not been run in about 8 weeks until I let someone use my uwave yesterday (I run a gas gen while boondocking unless I need AC).  It started easily, power came up (batts were low + fridge so ~12A load) and ran until (possibly when the uwave came on) it quit suddenly.  3 flashes but didn't see a secondary code.  Tried to restart, wouldn't start.  Then one last attempt maybe a minute later it cranked up and ran the uwave.  On the way home I ran the HW heater + 1 AC and it ran fine. 

I did have an issue with contaminated fuel clogging the primary engine filter.  The gen filter might be next.  

jacwjames, maybe when you blew the gen line back into the main tank you let loose a gaggle of foreign material that the primary engine filter picked up that kicked off your engine while fueling.  I would expect more serious symptoms, but this could be the start of it all. 

- bob

Have you tried the microwave (or other kitchen appliance) on shore power at any time in this process?  I wonder if the the GFCI has a short, triggering the shutdown before the breaker can trip . . . .

Just a WAG

- bob

Sometimes it would take off for a few bleeps when setting the parking brake, but it behaved itself most of the day..  Definitely low air alert (even w 120 psi in both tanks). 

Bad sensor

- bob