cbr046

Radiator cap is 14 psi? Whatever it is, that's the pressure throughout the system. If it survived 35 psi it's a good heater core. If it "leaks" make sure your AC compressor isn't engaged and the evaporator isn't forming condensation. If the AC compressor is on the low pressure tube (the larger diameter one) will be cold and may be sweating. Easier to touch the tube at the front vs opening the rear bedroom hatch and looking at the AC clutch. - bob

@Mike H, @StephenW - did you disable the steering wheel lock on your Fords? If so, how did you accomplish that? - bob

There's a valve on both hot and cold water circuits for dumping / winterizing the lines. If either CW or HW are left open and pump is on it will empty the tank. Not a failure item IMO. edit - OK, didn't consider higher end coaches. Endeavor / Diplomat are pretty basic. - bob

It looks like the power supply wire (+12V & Gnd) for the original TV selector switch / antenna amplifier. That's my guess and I'm sticking to it. - bob

When you say some outlets don't work are you saying some outlets DO work back on shore power? If so, which ones work and which don't? - bob

My parking spot isn't level so I need 3 ramps (one wheel is the "reference") every time I come home. Fun stuff. Don't forget a block of wood to keep from dropping over the edge. - bob

OK, I'll bite . . . What is the EGR Ugly Fix and why would someone need it? - bob

Excellent research. Thank you @Tom Cherry - b

Why would MS purchase Bluefire LLC? Doesn't make sense. - bob

Just the opposite on my ISC. The sender (round chamber w 2 wires) loads the circuit (10 ohms at 0 psi). Disconnect the sender and gauge should peg to the right. Sounds like a) the wire fell off or b) the sender is bad. The sender at the starter (ISC) is for low psi only. - bob

@Rob Wilmes Do you remember getting a yellow "Low Fuel" light on your dash for the last 10 minutes of fuel? - bob

If you install the headlight relay mod you could still be blowing fuses . . . . There's a white 6 pin molex style jumper plug under the dash that many have had trouble with the contacts burning out. They should be under the dash but I found mine inside the steering housing. This plug is inline with the headlight circuit. 💡 Poor contacts won't blow the fuse but it does make a good place to pull the jumper apart and see if the fuse still blows. If it does, your short is upstream from that plug. If the fuse doesn't blow you can take an ohm meter and, with the headlights disconnected, start troubleshooting for the short. 🔎 Keep us posted. We all love a good mystery. - bob

Maybe the Centroid sender has a separate wire for that last 10 gallons . . . . The light worked on mine when the gauge read 3/8 tank. Unfortunately I trusted the gauge and not the light. Cost me a long walk carrying diesel, twice. - bob

Yes, works better than the other positions (floor, dash, etc) but when I did this my compressor locked up. Pretty sure it was coincidental . . . - bob

Are you replacing exhaust manifold also? Look for cracks and / or pitting. - bob

I'd start with the cheapest and work up from there, or shotgun all 3. Be sure to use a good soldering station and static precautions. A 100W Weller gun is not your friend. - bob

The latter looks like a xxx batch or plant ID with 9934 date code. MC33030P is the important number. "P" is the type of package - DIP or dual inline package. A different last letter might work with modified last resort kluge wiring. - bob

With the slide out there will be a LOT more tension on the spring. That would make me nervous. When I swapped our topper I moved the slide out just enough to work with it, and inched the topper in both coach and roller grooves simultaneously . . . but I also locked the bar in place to keep the original tension. Not an option in your case. I started over once when the bar broke (sheared at the pin) on a previous coach. I don't remember how many revolutions of pre-tension it took (9 revs?), but it's probably different anyway. - bob

Not sure if yours is air or electric but on our 03 Endeavor and many other models in this coach class we need air pressure to move the step well cover. - bob

@pwhittle You might stock up on the MC33030P controller IC. I only checked a few places and everyone was out of stock . . . except ebay and those pirates are asking $30 - $40 for a single IC! 😮 Still better than scrapping and starting over . . . but geesh! - bob

If it were matter of tightening some relay mounts, wire connections or box mounts I imagine someone would have suggested it . . . . but that would be my first go-to to lessen the hum or at least get it back to "original" hum. I'm imagining Esco will recommend complete replacement for liability reasons. If you do open the box be sure to disconnect from shore power and not run the genny. Hopefully that goes without saying. And of course keep us posted what they say. - bob

You might check with Talin and see if they can "sneak you in" for a quick adjustment. Asking is free. - bob

Probably counterfeit. Just sayin http://www.sanden.com.sg:8082/ - bob

Yes, it can get very complex with all the combinations not engineered to work together. I was thinking something like THIS for a standalone furnace control. Simple, and been using one a 2 wire version for 120V in series with a space heater for many seasons. It's just a simple temperature controlled switch. I'm guessing 2 wires connect and 2 wires disconnect at the set temp. Oddly, the 2 wire version is in Celsius . . . Again, this is just one piece of the puzzle, but it frees up options for heat pump / AC / multiple zones. Choose carefully! - bob

If I were contemplating an upgrade this is probably the approach I would take. MicroAir, or something with bluetooth option, and an independent dumb thermostat for the furnace. Hopefully that won't be soon. - bob