cbr046

I would question why you need that much energy for such a long time. 70 hours is a full 3 days! Are you running multiple electric fryers or something? I'm going to assume you're outside hobnobbing with other tailgators in front of your coach. Can you run off batteries convert to lithium batteries or run a smaller / more quiet generator at the back? I run a Predator 3500 for all my needs and have a Honda 2000 fitted with a cap where I can draw fuel from a 5 gal can. But even with the Predator if the weather is nice I use it mostly to recharge the batteries one time during a weekend. Of course that would mean hauling a separate genny and the fuss of shutting down and refilling the fuel tank. I get the convenience of the on-board generator. But the Cummins / Onan generators are tanks. I wouldn't be afraid to extend oil changes to 250 hrs to get more in sync with your fuel & air filter changes. Maybe consider a full synthetic, like Rotella T6, for extended oil changes. In my old 4-Runner I went 15,000-20,000 miles using Mobil1 full synthetic between changes. At 350,000 miles it still wasn't using any oil. And I still regret trading it in for a shinier 4-Runner! Just alternate thoughts. I've never tail gated so you're in a whole different world than mine. - bob

MY BAD!!! My system is Even Brake, not Brake Buddy. Looking at the 2 instruction sets Brake Buddy is much simpler! The Even Brake needs to see toad vehicle brake lights as confirmation the toad brake pedal is pressed by the unit. My "installation" was static - no base plate but I had to verify the Even Brake would work (purchased used). https://www.roadmasterinc.com/pdf/85-4593.pdf But I knew I had to locate a brake signal . . . - bob

Edit: I'm quoting Brake Buddy when I have an Even Brake system. I needed a brake signal when testing my Brake Buddy. Otherwise it wouldn't activate. - b

If I remember right the brake signal enables the Brake Buddy to brake but uses an accelerometer to drive the proportional braking and push on the toad's brake pedal. You should be able to swap with other relays. If the relay looks the same it's probably ok to swap. "Your mileage may vary". I considered the Horn relay the one I could do without (for a short time). - bob

When the MH is neglected it "acts up" and requires attention. I have a DW like that . . . . But if you use it regularly it purrs like a Swiss watch. I had the shaft break in my topper once. It made a loud bang (spring unwinding), unrolled and started beating the side of the RV at 70 mph. Trying to resolve it on the shoulder of I-75 was NUTS! I ended up tip-toeing to the next exit and disassembled it for the rest of the trip. The shaft broke in two where an internal pin goes through it. Funny stuff there. 🤣 After 50 years of racing on Sunday and working on Monday to this day I find it hard to break the "get home" habit. That and not feeling secure at rest areas and truck stops (Walmart is a zoo). If I get home after the midnite the DW tells me to sleep in the driveway else I may be SHOT (literally). Good advice I say. - bob

🤣🤣🤣 - b

Always ohm test with power off and diode disconnected from anything at one end. I don't know where they're actually located . . . . hidden in the harness maybe? - bob

or a wee bit of hot glue until the molding is back up - b

If you can't find the code you have to know what they were designed for (ie 2001 Lincoln LS for 2003 Endeavor). On our coach the previous owner replaced the headlight assemblies with units from TYC. THEN he installed LED bulbs. The problem with LEDs is they don't illuminate with the same pattern as OEM halogen bulbs, so I had to really play with the LED fitting in the housing and aiming. And it's a compromise between high and low beams. What's acceptable on low beam might be crazy into the trees on high beam. It was more voodoo than engineering but I have them half decent for night driving. If you really want to get creative you can take an assembly pair, carve them up and install projector bulbs. There's YouTube videos on it. It's not for the faint of heart. Maybe start with a throwaway pair if you can find them. In my old coach I had HIDs replacing the OEM bulbs. I had plenty of light but so did everyone else (along with the ditches, trees, oncoming traffic). Low beams were good enough to see a shadowy tire gator in time to change lanes. High beams really lit things up but could only be used with no traffic. I wouldn't recommend trying HIDs. If your lenses are clouded you can try having them resurfaced. It might not give you the brightness you're looking for. Good luck in your search. - bob

Mine does the same thing. As soon as I plug into shore it goes into forced charge mode for a period of time (30 min?), whether the batteries are fully charged or not. Xantrex 458 inverter. The batteries are fully charged in route. I normally ride with the inverter off (no AC). I've looked for a switch (hardware and software) to disable that "feature" but come up empty. - bob

On my older 2003 Endeavor the ICC flash only flashes the rear marker lights. That's it. If the lights are off it will flash the marker lights on-off. If the lights are on it will flash the marker lights off-on. Since I installed LED marker "bulbs" I only get ICC flashing when lights are on (because it reverses polarity when lights are off and LEDs only flow current in one direction). This might have been a Monaco design philosophy . . . . - bob

Yah, a definite propane hog! I built a simple baffle under my fridge, just channeling the air back & forth with some scrap rubber backed carpeting (I'm sure there are better sound dampening materials, but this was free). Not much room to for a big enough return air channel, but it knocks the edge off the noise. Then all the hot air goes to the ceiling, ugh. I get cold by the window, and I DO like my windows! - bob

Interesting as the original fuses are supposed to be 20A (184C). It's a known fact the heater doesn't draw 20A but thought the heating elements drew more than 10A. As long as you're still getting heat! I use a $15 bluetooth thermometer to monitor my heat bay. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07R586J37/ - bob

That connector doesn't look too good. That said, here's a standard 7 pin truck-trailer connector pinout: Happy wiring. - bob

I seem to recall two 30A? circuit breakers that look like small relays (small metal rectangular "cans") in the FRB on one of the Monaco Boxes (Box 1 or Box 2). I apologize for being so vague, but if you're stuck and checking anything and everything this might be a place to look. Good luck, - bob

I took a different approach. I bought the longest breaker I could find. 40" was barely enough so I bought a torque multiplier to get to 600 ft lbs (you never know how much the last air wrench guy torqued them to, or if the bolts are frozen). I added an extension for the rear wheels. For re-torquing I bought a digital torque gauge. This way I have flexibility for other "projects". Remember those tires are 120 lbs. Better have a method of getting the tire on / off. You can raise the coach with levelers until the axle is light, then use a floor jack to adjust the wheel off the ground. Also use a pry bar to shimmy the wheel into place. I'll add sources when I get home in a few hours. edit - Here are the items I bought - 40" 3/4 drive "Flex" breaker bar - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005G7QGD2/ (Currently unavailable). I didn't realize it was "flex" and it definitely flexes. Go with the "Newer Item Available". Can handle up to 1300 ft lbs. 3/4 drive Digital Torque Gauge - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079CN87WJ/ Has a beeper to let you know when your reach the torque setting, can work clockwise or counter-clockwise, Nm, ft-lbs, kg-m, etc. It says 442 ft lbs max . . . . but 1000Nm = 737 ft lbs. I did pay that much, too. You might look at another, like the Nieko brand - https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-20743A-Digital-Adapter-Foot-Pound/dp/B009GLITFW/ (much less expensive, too). Torque Multiplier - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002GQ3PZ8/ VERY expensive, and I bought it for the steering box bolts, that I finally gave up on (access is an issue and it's very cold out), but it will make lug nuts EZ PZ. But one thing - it's 3/4 drive in, 1" drive out. You'll need to either use 1" extensions and sockets or use an adapter. Extras - 3/4 (or 1") Drive Extensions, 33 mm (or 1 5/16") socket, adapters, etc. I thought this was a nice adapter combo - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0C9Z33XY1/ and bought this handy ratcheting adapter last month that suddenly is "no longer available" - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MME7H2Q/ - Only 10 reviews, maybe it'll break with first use. @joefromperry I'm not saying this is what anyone should buy / do, just what the solution that I thought was best for me. - bob

Bummer. 😪 I enjoyed Ray's posts also. Looking at his obit he was an involved kinda guy. - bob

In addition . . . . Make sure you're looking at the same zone the furnace is on (probably zone 1). Also, it'll run for 2 minutes after you shut it down or reaches temperature. - bob

It's a good idea to wear safety glasses if you remove the caps. I've never seen it but they can splash when you add water. Each cell should be filled to the bottom of the "tube" that goes down inside the cap. This is the full point. At minimum all the plates inside should be covered in water. When they're not covered bad things happen. I've been told (by Ga Tech PhD) that De-ionized water will leach ions out of the plates. It's a battle I'm not willing to re-fight here, sorta like what oil to use. I use DISTILLED water (from the grocery store). Your "Red Bank" of batteries are your coach batteries and on my coach the inverter will boil the water down below the plates after 2 - 3 months. I have to turn my chassis battery bank off if I'm running for a few days. There's two big round switches on the wall inside your battery compartment. The chassis switch will lead to your "Black Bank". As Tom Cherry said, don't leave your general purpose charger on for more that a day. If you find a battery MAINTAINER you can leave those on indefinitely. I hope you winterized your pluming by now? - bob

Sources of entertainment / streaming, occupying time. - bob

In the past Starlink was weak in SE US until they got more satellites up in space. They wouldn't authorize our location (NE GA) but now it looks like they cover the full US. We're limited by trees anyway. https://www.starlink.com/map?view=availability With Dish Network we can add $7 to our monthly bill (for recording) and add a 2nd receiver, for glamping. So $7 vs $120+ per month is a no brainer for my cost conscious DW even though we're stuck with nothing worthwhile to watch (Dish) and no streaming (limited cell plan). Such is life. For full timing Starlink is the way to go. Starlink for 2 households (stick & brick + coach) gets cost prohibitive for us. - bob

I was pretty lost on the "why" MDS lifter and how it worked. The "why" seems to be 4 vs 8 cyl operation for fuel economy, but this helped the how . . . . (not sure if yours is a Gen III but have to "assume" it's similar). - bob

One of the negative Amazon reviewers wrote "These clamp the wire well, but the wire rotates freely while clamped. They only clamp the wire at a small pinch point. Not an optimal way to transfer load current." I'd be leery of using them in any kind of medium or high current connection. Also, they may work well at first but may also oxidize that "small pinch point" over time, especially with solid conductors. Remember: Resistance x Current = Heat. Just MHO. - bob

I installed the Southwire 40100 over a year ago. All working good (so far). https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F4620OO/ The photo shows TRC but unit arrived was the Southwire. TRC was bought out by Southwire. Must be an old photo . . . . Some reviewers say it's noisy. Mine is whisper quiet (no hum). - bob

So a new harness from roof to receiver? If not, I'm wondering if something chafed in the roof space, or a pesky mouse chewed into the harness out of view. Maybe pull the harness at both ends and ohm out each end, then check for shorts between wires. - bob